Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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And what is the rgb mode of the rp2040 for?

View attachment 363786
if you have an rp2040-zero from waveshare/ali then it has a neopixel. It is used for diagnosing proper firmware flashes as well as console glitching. If you plug it in, and flash the uf2 firmware to it and immediately see a red light after flashing (this is not the same as flashing, then unplugging and replugging), then no rgb jumper needs to be made. If on the other hand, you get one quick green flashing light, then you need to bridge the jumper pads indicated to swap the LED colors for proper diagnoses capability.
 
A (hopefully) final update to my first switch hacking saga. XD

I got my wireless function working again, and I managed to get rid of my slow emmc mode!

At some point during my hacking endeavors, I ripped the Dat0 trace and rendered my console unbootable...
View attachment 363782
While repairing that, I also ripped the CLK trace... So I scraped some of the solder mask away on the trace, then used uv-cure resin to mask off all the surrounding solder pads. I soldered to the tiniest pad that you can see above to the trace I exposed with 40awg magnet wire, then covered the whole thing in uv resin. I had to also repeat this process on the CLK trace.
View attachment 363783
Once I had finally gotten finished cleaning up my attempted failure of soldering to the emmc port pins (I shorted a bunch to ground since basically every other pin on the port is a GND pin -_-) I realized I had accidentally blown/brushed the tiny capacitors to the left of the APU shielding off, and these are ABSOLUTELY VITAL to the functioning of both wifi and bluetooth of the console. I repeat, if you rip these caps off, the joycons won't work unless docked in the switch, and you won't have wifi.
Here are the caps in question after I repaired them (I ALMOST ripped the trace of the one closest to the APU enough that I couldn't recover, but luckily I was able to offset the cap to hit the trace and the remaining pad on the circuit.)
View attachment 363785
And finally, if the above image doesn't QUITE give you the understanding of scale as to just how TINY these things are (literally smaller than a grain of rice) here is a photo of a single capacitor, resting on the pad of my thumb, a mere 2 finger-print traces long, perhaps 1 finger-print trace wide.
View attachment 363784

This was a real burning crucible experiment for me. Failing to fix this would mean I had a functioning switch, but no wifi and no wireless controllers could be used. I have an 8bitdo arcade stick that's compatible that would have been USELESS without this being fixed. I spent approximately FIVE HOURS positioning, cleaning, fluxing, tweezing, tweeking, nudging, holding my breath, swearing quietly, stabbing myself accidentally with pointy tweezers, and then finally getting a good connection on both capacitors to end with a RESOUNDING SUCCESS OF WORKING WIRELESS! :D

As far as my slow emmc problems go, I have a patched V1 and had 47O (47 ohm +/- 5%) on DAT0, CMD, and CLK, and hekate was reporting half-speed on my emmc. I replaced the 47O with 47RO (47 ohm +/- 1%) on CLK, and then put two 47RO in series on DAT0 and CMD to give them a total of 94 ohms resistance each. Doing this seems to have solved my slow emmc problems.

I'll be around, because I still have my GF's switch lite to hack, and potentially a few friend's switches. Keep hacking guys and gals, and if you think you've toasted your console, just consider how much I had to Frankenstein mine to keep it alive, and DON'T give up.

One again i must reiterate

Just because a mod is cheap doesn't mean it's easy. - Trust me I learnt the hard way - Adran 2023
 
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One again i must reiterate

Just because a mod is cheap doesn't mean it's easy. - Trust me I learnt the hard way - Adran 2023
Let me comment that.

I received my parts from Aliexpress 2 days ago.

When I opened the package. Literally I said to myself "What the f... is that?! Did they send the correct parts?"

I guess I got spoiled by all the successful installation pictures I saw posted here. In reality even the mosfet looks NOTHING like the pictures on this forum make you think. It's much, much smaller. Like fraction of your fingernail. It's smaller than the tip of the matchstick.

When I saw the size of caps you have to solder to I said "there is no way you can do that without microscope."

Trust me guys, better safe than sorry. Don't do it if you have never soldered before.

I have some experience with soldering but no 0201 smd. Max I went with bare eye was 0402 and that was hard as fuck.

Don't ruin your consoles guys.
 
When I saw the size of caps you have to solder to I said "there is no way you can do that without microscope."
It's for real you need to make MICRO - solder all the stuff are tinny as hell. That's why you see lots of post about "what is this component?" Lifted pads etc.
 
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Let me comment that.

I received my parts from Aliexpress 2 days ago.

When I opened the package. Literally I said to myself "What the f... is that?! Did they send the correct parts?"

I guess I got spoiled by all the successful installation pictures I saw posted here. In reality even the mosfet looks NOTHING like the pictures on this forum make you think. It's much, much smaller. Like fraction of your fingernail. It's smaller than the tip of the matchstick.

When I saw the size of caps you have to solder to I said "there is no way you can do that without microscope."

Trust me guys, better safe than sorry. Don't do it if you have never soldered before.

I have some experience with soldering but no 0201 smd. Max I went with bare eye was 0402 and that was hard as fuck.

Don't ruin your consoles guys.

Guess how I learnt 😅🤣

I've got a "dead" lite in my room. It has a dead trace so it autorcms.
 
Just to reiterate, I did all my soldering by eye with a large ring-light over my shoulder to illuminate the board. I would use my cellphone with max zoom to take these photos and occasionally as a magnifier to check solder spots.

It is NOT easy to solder these things by eye, but I am an example of it being possible if you have enough patience and decent enough eye sight still.
 
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if you have an rp2040-zero from waveshare/ali then it has a neopixel. It is used for diagnosing proper firmware flashes as well as console glitching. If you plug it in, and flash the uf2 firmware to it and immediately see a red light after flashing (this is not the same as flashing, then unplugging and replugging), then no rgb jumper needs to be made. If on the other hand, you get one quick green flashing light, then you need to bridge the jumper pads indicated to swap the LED colors for proper diagnoses capability.
Why did I do rgb jumper or green light?
 
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Guess how I learnt 😅🤣

I've got a "dead" lite in my room. It has a dead trace so it autorcms.
shame u dont live near me otherwise i would get it back and running , u had a riped of trace near/under the apu right ?
u dont have anybody near u who can lift that apu sucker of and replace the trace?
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updated the firmware post with 2.61 firmware / toolbox 0.2 files and board pinouts by @Dee87.

Pi Pico support is still not ready, but Pico doesn't have RGB LED, so it needs some kind of rewrite
now all we need it that PicoFly Logo :rofl2:
:rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2:
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I've already made the jumper
so ur having a green light after flashing the .uf2 firmware?
and u set the rgb mode ?
if so then undo the rgb mode pin and u should have a red light after flashing the .uf2
 
Last edited by Dee87,
shame u dont live near me otherwise i would get it back and running , u had a riped of trace near/under the apu right ?
u dont have anybody near u who can lift that apu sucker of and replace the trace?
Post automatically merged:


now all we need it that PicoFly Logo :rofl2:
:rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2:
Post automatically merged:


so ur having a green light after flashing the .uf2 firmware?
and u set the rgb mode ?
if so then undo the rgb mode pin and u should have a red light after flashing the .uf2
picofly.png

would this be an inspiration for a logo?
 
naaaa but sorry im talking about the picofly boot logo
but sadly it stays within the firmware :-(
View attachment 363838
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Work your magic with either of these pictures, and i would sugest a color changing animation red to blue raspberry...
That would totally fit the console and the raspberry.
 

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Last edited by Dee87,
shame u dont live near me otherwise i would get it back and running , u had a riped of trace near/under the apu right ?
u dont have anybody near u who can lift that apu sucker of and replace the trace?
Post automatically merged:


now all we need it that PicoFly Logo :rofl2:
:rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2:
Post automatically merged:


so ur having a green light after flashing the .uf2 firmware?
and u set the rgb mode ?
if so then undo the rgb mode pin and u should have a red light after flashing the .uf2
I see. Thank you
 

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