Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[Dee87]

Thanks guys for reply. I manage to fix it. But i think i broke something on lcd

thats really weired
hekate in the front, nin in the back ....
what happens when u put pressure on the lcd connector
have u tried to put a sd card witf cfw in it

 

[linuxares]

Thanks guys for reply. I manage to fix it. But i think i broke something on lcd

Double check so the cable is properly seated.

 

[minik1971]

good afternoon colleagues I have the rp2040-one but when I pass the 2.6 or any files the led does not turn on

 

[angelC992]

It's like putting another extra 999 resistors from whats needed. Try to solder the 1206, maybe put some oriented to the external part of the pico, alternating between sides (internal external), should fit.

Finally I soldered the 1206 ones.

 

[FlowerFire]

im guessing its the left one since u see solder pretty close as far as i could see on the pic

Now that I think about it, before connecting the RP2040 I tested turning the Switch on, before I previously shorted a 3.3v point and after cleaning and testing a lot, I wanted to verify that the console was still working.
Shouldn't the capacitor have been blown up at the time? But the smoke happened only when I connected everything (but every function is still there and I'm not getting any overheat too).

Anyway if the cap is gone but everything is working good, what should I do? Should I just reflow that soldering point and then keep on using the console? Or do I have to find another capacitor like right now?

I looked a bit around gbatemp and I can't find what the capacitor is for, but interestingly, I've found thread where people where suggesting to remove it

 

[vittorio]

On oled i have purple led but cmd and clk is ok

 

[Dee87]

Now that I think about it, before connecting the RP2040 I tested turning the Switch on, before I previously shorted a 3.3v point and after cleaning and testing a lot, I wanted to verify that the console was still working.
Shouldn't the capacitor have been blown up at the time? But the smoke happened only when I connected everything (but every function is still there and I'm not getting any overheat too).

Anyway if the cap is gone but everything is working good, what should I do? Should I just reflow that soldering point and then keep on using the console? Or do I have to find another capacitor like right now?

I looked a bit around gbatemp and I can't find what the capacitor is for, but interestingly, I've found thread where people where suggesting to remove it

u can get some caps off of the rp2040 @rehius made a post where they where sitting

yeah u can remove it should still work fine . caps are for filtering noises i think

 

[JoseBankai]

Hi, @vittorio same here, theres no way to make it work, my rp2040 only wants the "fw 2,5+unlock" if i put any of the others, the red led never shows activity, and when i put the battery on the switch only blue led and pink one and thats all

 

[FreeLander]

I sat my Quick 861dw to 380C , 70 airflow and it knocked out the entire thing. Resistors, buttons, and even the LED light got removed lol. It won't turn on anymore. What temp and airflow would you guys recommend on Quick?

 

[Mena]

I sat my Quick 861dw to 380C , 70 airflow and it knocked out the entire thing. Resistors, buttons, and even the LED light got removed lol. It won't turn on anymore. What temp and airflow would you guys recommend on Quick?

10-40 depending on what you're doing. higher is meant for thick boards like a ps5 for hdmi removal

 

[cowboy619]

I sat my Quick 861dw to 380C , 70 airflow and it knocked out the entire thing. Resistors, buttons, and even the LED light got removed lol. It won't turn on anymore. What temp and airflow would you guys recommend on Quick?

I’ve got a cheap Amazon hot air. I do 350c at 40% air removed everything perfectly. Added low melt to all points


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[iO-bUGGY]

Guys I had a mariko v2 and tested hac-cpu-21,
Tested the 2 mosfets from a donor board

and it works like a charm.
Instant glich.
this are I think toshiba ssm6k504nu.

I've tested the mosfets from hwfly v2 flex are not working.
I've tested the mosfets from hwfly v2 felx on 3 switches.Non worked with the flex.
This confirmed that I've lost 2 days trying to glich with borken mosfets with the flex.

 

[Dee87]

Guys I had a mariko v2 and tested hac-cpu-21,
Tested the 2 mosfets from a donor board View attachment 363974 and it works like a charm.
Instant glich.
this are I think toshiba ssm6k504nu.

I've tested the mosfets from hwfly v2 flex are not working.
I've tested the mosfets from hwfly v2 felx on 3 switches.Non worked with the flex.

then u have issues with that flex kabel

 

[iO-bUGGY]

then u have issues with that flex kabel

Thats what I confirmed with this glich and the toshiba mosfets.

 

[Dee87]

well thats why i dont buy flex cables Xd

 

[darviral]

Guys I had a mariko v2 and tested hac-cpu-21,
Tested the 2 mosfets from a donor board View attachment 363974 and it works like a charm.
Instant glich.
this are I think toshiba ssm6k504nu.

I've tested the mosfets from hwfly v2 flex are not working.
I've tested the mosfets from hwfly v2 felx on 3 switches.Non worked with the flex.
This confirmed that I've lost 2 days trying to glich with borken mosfets with the flex.

yes try that mosfet from flex sx core and hwfly not work

 

[leerz]

if you guys have a problem using the cables, you don't actually need to solder on the ffc contacts at the end (pad 3&4)
instead, use the resistor on the underside of the metal backing. it's actually easier and more secure.

 

[detilmalala]

if you guys have a problem using the cables, you don't actually need to solder on the ffc contacts at the end (pad 3&4)
instead, use the resistor on the underside of the metal backing. it's actually easier and more secure.

can you make a better explain

 

[Adran_Marit]

can you make a better explain

if you use the flex cable instead of soldering to the middle pins you can solder to the resistor under the mosfet section

 

[aramirez0425]

if you guys have a problem using the cables, you don't actually need to solder on the ffc contacts at the end (pad 3&4)
instead, use the resistor on the underside of the metal backing. it's actually easier and more secure.

I cut the end and solder to the resistor as well. much simpler