thats really weiredThanks guys for reply. I manage to fix it. But i think i broke something on lcd
hekate in the front, nin in the back ....
what happens when u put pressure on the lcd connector
have u tried to put a sd card witf cfw in it
thats really weiredThanks guys for reply. I manage to fix it. But i think i broke something on lcd
Double check so the cable is properly seated.Thanks guys for reply. I manage to fix it. But i think i broke something on lcd
Finally I soldered the 1206 ones.It's like putting another extra 999 resistors from whats needed. Try to solder the 1206, maybe put some oriented to the external part of the pico, alternating between sides (internal external), should fit.
Now that I think about it, before connecting the RP2040 I tested turning the Switch on, before I previously shorted a 3.3v point and after cleaning and testing a lot, I wanted to verify that the console was still working.im guessing its the left one since u see solder pretty close as far as i could see on the pic
u can get some caps off of the rp2040 @rehius made a post where they where sittingNow that I think about it, before connecting the RP2040 I tested turning the Switch on, before I previously shorted a 3.3v point and after cleaning and testing a lot, I wanted to verify that the console was still working.
Shouldn't the capacitor have been blown up at the time? But the smoke happened only when I connected everything (but every function is still there and I'm not getting any overheat too).
Anyway if the cap is gone but everything is working good, what should I do? Should I just reflow that soldering point and then keep on using the console? Or do I have to find another capacitor like right now?
I looked a bit around gbatemp and I can't find what the capacitor is for, but interestingly, I've found thread where people where suggesting to remove it
10-40 depending on what you're doing. higher is meant for thick boards like a ps5 for hdmi removalI sat my Quick 861dw to 380C , 70 airflow and it knocked out the entire thing. Resistors, buttons, and even the LED light got removed lol. It won't turn on anymore. What temp and airflow would you guys recommend on Quick?
I sat my Quick 861dw to 380C , 70 airflow and it knocked out the entire thing. Resistors, buttons, and even the LED light got removed lol. It won't turn on anymore. What temp and airflow would you guys recommend on Quick?
then u have issues with that flex kabelGuys I had a mariko v2 and tested hac-cpu-21,
Tested the 2 mosfets from a donor board View attachment 363974 and it works like a charm.
Instant glich.
this are I think toshiba ssm6k504nu.
I've tested the mosfets from hwfly v2 flex are not working.
I've tested the mosfets from hwfly v2 felx on 3 switches.Non worked with the flex.
Thats what I confirmed with this glich and the toshiba mosfets.then u have issues with that flex kabel
yes try that mosfet from flex sx core and hwfly not workGuys I had a mariko v2 and tested hac-cpu-21,
Tested the 2 mosfets from a donor board View attachment 363974 and it works like a charm.
Instant glich.
this are I think toshiba ssm6k504nu.
I've tested the mosfets from hwfly v2 flex are not working.
I've tested the mosfets from hwfly v2 felx on 3 switches.Non worked with the flex.
This confirmed that I've lost 2 days trying to glich with borken mosfets with the flex.
can you make a better explainif you guys have a problem using the cables, you don't actually need to solder on the ffc contacts at the end (pad 3&4)
instead, use the resistor on the underside of the metal backing. it's actually easier and more secure.
if you use the flex cable instead of soldering to the middle pins you can solder to the resistor under the mosfet sectioncan you make a better explain
I cut the end and solder to the resistor as well. much simplerif you guys have a problem using the cables, you don't actually need to solder on the ffc contacts at the end (pad 3&4)
instead, use the resistor on the underside of the metal backing. it's actually easier and more secure.