Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[digipimp75]

Hey @mattytrog . I previously installed my trinket chip and it was working fine for a year. I recently opened the system to try and reset the chip and get into update mode, since I was using old files. While in there, I thought I'd install a vol+ strap since I didn't do it on the initial install. Now the vol up button doesn't work at all! The power and volume down buttons work, and the system boots fine. I didn't lift any components on the board, and there's no bridges that I can see. Any idea what I did wrong or how to fix this?

Can anybody help? Please and thanks!

 

[digipimp75]

Try this:

View attachment 174588

The PWR button RED point looks dry on your picture. Can you reflow that?

Do you know a good place to buy replacement resistors? My vol+ button isn't working after trying to solder the vol+ strap. Power and volume down are fine, and the flex cable seems ok.

 

[braised_beef]

hey guys, I have a RCM-X86 coming in the mail, so i'm finally going to tackle this project.

I have a question about soldering straps to one of the alternate 3V pads next to the joycon pads. are we supposed to bridge the points together or just one of the points? this same question goes for the Joy-con pads too. The diagrams on the OP show just one of each pad circled, but I've seen pictures of people bridging the twom points together and then strapping that point. ive also seen pictures of the user just soldering one of the two pads on each of the points im referring too.

I'll attach pictures.

The two pads for the joycon is supposed to be bridged. Did you find out if the 3v was supposed to be bridged?

 

[vincentallen2]

The two pads for the joycon is supposed to be bridged. Did you find out if the 3v was supposed to be bridged?

Yeah, I tried to solder to that 3v point adjacent from the joycon pads, but it was just too tiny for me with my current equipment. After correcting my mistakes, I ended up just using the emmc point that was recommended

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note10+ 5G SM-N976U using Tapatalk

 

[braised_beef]

Yeah, I tried to solder to that 3v point adjacent from the joycon pads, but it was just too tiny for me with my current equipment. After correcting my mistakes, I ended up just using the emmc point that was recommended

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note10+ 5G SM-N976U using Tapatalk

I cleaned it up as best I could and probed it with my multimeter, apparently they are bridged by default... unless I didn't do a good job?

 

[vincentallen2]

I cleaned it up as best I could and probed it with my multimeter, apparently they are bridged by default... unless I didn't do a good job?View attachment 227583View attachment 227584

I say give it a shot if you have the skill. I did a deep search before attempting it myself, and there's not that many people that posted on gbatemp using that specific 3v point. So if you're successful, that would be great for future users that also would like to attempt it. Just make sure you take pictures/video too haha

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note10+ 5G SM-N976U using Tapatalk

 

[braised_beef]

I say give it a shot if you have the skill. I did a deep search before attempting it myself, and there's not that many people that posted on gbatemp using that specific 3v point. So if you're successful, that would be great for future users that also would like to attempt it. Just make sure you take pictures/video too haha

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note10+ 5G SM-N976U using Tapatalk

You know what, I'm going to open up another switch just to be 100%

 

[vincentallen2]

You know what, I'm going to open up another switch just to be 100%

That's a great idea. You definitely should double check, just to be sure

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note10+ 5G SM-N976U using Tapatalk

 

[braised_beef]

Okay, I can 100% confirm that the alternative 3v pads are indeed bridged. Wrapping wire to the tip of the probes does wonders.

 

[vincentallen2]

Okay, I can 100% confirm that the alternative 3v pads are indeed bridged. Wrapping wire to the tip of the probes does wonders.View attachment 227590

You are the man! Thanks for going through that trouble. Now I wanna see the install lol

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note10+ 5G SM-N976U using Tapatalk

 

[braised_beef]

Definitely, however, I will have to have finish it tomorrow. Also for anyone attempting this mod, curling the tip makes it so much easier for round pads.

 

[phils3r]

Hi all. I installed a rebug m0 modchip over 2 years ago and it still works like a charme. I used this method:
https://github.com/Aboshi/SwitchME/blob/master/wiring/4_wire_on_at_powerup/New_4_wire.jpg

I still have another switch where I want to install the same modchip (bought 2 back in the days).

But one thing bothers me. Is this still up 2 date and is there a way to solder things with autoRCM enabled which prevents draining the battery when it's powered off?
If my assumption is correct there is no way as you solder to the 3.3v pad which always drains electricity even when the switch is powered off.

I don't care about dual boot and only want to use CFW (atmosphere) booted by hekate and fusee-secondary.

To repeat my main question is there a way to use an autoRCM console with this chip that doesn't drain the battery when powered off?

Thank you all for your support especially mattytrog for helping me in this thread when I soldered the board into my first switch.

 

[Hayato213]

Hi all. I installed a rebug m0 modchip over 2 years ago and it still works like a charme. I used this method:
https://github.com/Aboshi/SwitchME/blob/master/wiring/4_wire_on_at_powerup/New_4_wire.jpg

I still have another switch where I want to install the same modchip (bought 2 back in the days).

But one thing bothers me. Is this still up 2 date and is there a way to solder things with autoRCM enabled which prevents draining the battery when it's powered off?
If my assumption is correct there is no way as you solder to the 3.3v pad which always drains electricity even when the switch is powered off.

I don't care about dual boot and only want to use CFW (atmosphere) booted by hekate and fusee-secondary.

To repeat my main question is there a way to use an autoRCM console with this chip that doesn't drain the battery when powered off?

Thank you all for your support especially mattytrog for helping me in this thread when I soldered the board into my first switch.

The battery is Lithium-ion battery so it discharge over time, you won't be able to prevent that, you can leave the unit on sleep mode and charge it regularly that what I do regularly. The more you let the battery die the shorter the life cycle.

 

[phils3r]

Yeah but the discharing is much lower when no modchip is applied compared with the method above.
I had a switch unmodded lying around for nearly a year and it lost only about 20% or something of its capacity..
Meanwhile my modded switch only lasts for about 1.5 weeks fully charged even when powered off.

But as you describe this isn't really an issue for me as I use and charge it regularly.

I just want to know if there is an soldering / software option which prevents it but as I've written above I doubt as the 3.3v pad is wired to the modchip so it can drain power to do the payload injection job.

 

[laramie]

Has anyone had any problems using a gemma M0? I bought two and one of them I was able to plug into my pc and drop the bootloader uf2 file on it but it isn't working and the other one won't work on my pc. It doesn't show up at all. I connected the power, ground, both usb's. Auto rcm is on, and nothing optional added. I can post pictures if needed.

 

[Hayato213]

Yeah but the discharing is much lower when no modchip is applied compared with the method above.
I had a switch unmodded lying around for nearly a year and it lost only about 20% or something of its capacity..
Meanwhile my modded switch only lasts for about 1.5 weeks fully charged even when powered off.

But as you describe this isn't really an issue for me as I use and charge it regularly.

I just want to know if there is an soldering / software option which prevents it but as I've written above I doubt as the 3.3v pad is wired to the modchip so it can drain power to do the payload injection job.

Not really the battery still going to drain, if you don't let the battery died out you should be alright, I charge mine every few days, it is true that it drain more battery than a non hard modded unit. I just leave mine on sleep mode.

 

[braised_beef]

So I thought I'd share my experiences with this mod, I'm still testing the battery drain and so far it seems to be under control.

Initially the DotStar LED was not visible from under the grill, so I added a strip of clear plastic to divert the light.

Another problem was that the reset button would press up against the back housing actuating the button. Sanding down the button made it less sensitive to accidental presses.

The only issue I'm currently facing is when the console is off and plugged in, turning it back on whilst still plugged in goes directly into RCM mode. Is this because the charger is overriding the data lines?

Soldering directly to capacitors and resistors is way too risky, I used the alternate soldering points for VOL+ and 3V line.

Going forward, no-clean flux would really help on the aesthetics. The residue is a pain to clean and sometimes won't come off.

Overall, very happy with this mod, highly recommend it!

 

[popy]

To repeat my main question is there a way to use an autoRCM console with this chip that doesn't drain the battery when powered off?

Also searching for an solution regarding this issue.

What about "dualboot" vs. "chip based RCM", does that make an difference?

Will try a few things and come back here.

pOpY

 

[digipimp75]

Hey @mattytrog . I previously installed my trinket chip and it was working fine for a year. I recently opened the system to try and reset the chip and get into update mode, since I was using old files. While in there, I thought I'd install a vol+ strap since I didn't do it on the initial install. Now the vol up button doesn't work at all! The power and volume down buttons work, and the system boots fine. I didn't lift any components on the board, and there's no bridges that I can see. Any idea what I did wrong or how to fix this?

Can anybody help? Please and thanks!

UPDATE: I replaced the vol+ resistor and now that works, but no power or vol- lol. Also the mobo connector for the power/vol flex cable is now all jacked up and needs to be replaced. I give up

2nd update: Finally got it! I had to install a new fpc connector and vol+ resistor, but all buttons are working now. Ordered the parts from Digikey, and shipping was pretty quick (about 3-4 days).

 

[White_Raven_X]

UPDATE: I replaced the vol+ resistor and now that works, but no power or vol- lol. Also the mobo connector for the power/vol flex cable is now all jacked up and needs to be replaced. I give up

Sorry but we havent heard from Matty Trog since April. Hopefully someone else here can help you.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

The only issue I'm currently facing is when the console is off and plugged in, turning it back on whilst still plugged in goes directly into RCM mode. Is this because the charger is overriding the data lines?

Im having the same issue... I left my switch this morning as it was downloading stuff and when i got back it wont turn on. I have the exact same setup as you do. So i unplugged the power cable and tried to power up...nothing. I then held the power for 15 seconds and tried to power asgain...nothing. I plugged in my "in line" usb c voltmeter/amp/watts tester and can see that the battery is charging at

4.82v - 0.43a - 2w.
This is with a regular 5v charger

15.15v - 0.16a - 2.45w
this is with 15v nintendo charger

now while im connected to charger if i press and hold power everything goes down to "0" (zero)...

Im really not sure what is going on here. Any help/ideas would be great. thanks

*edit*

after plugging into the pc i realized it was stuck in rcm when connecting the charger usb... How to fix this so that i never need to connect to pc ?