Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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sofakng

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I've installed a lot of console modifications (including DCDigital and PS1Digital) so I consider myself at least intermediate-level but this Trinket M0 is giving my problems.

The main problem is that the POWER and VOL+ buttons don't work. I've completely disconnected the trinket and all wires but they still don't work. I've also replaced the power/volume ribbon cable.

The problem I believe occurred when I tried to solder the vol+ to the top of the capacitor. (after it gave me problems I decided to use the alternate point on the back of the mainboard)

What is confusing is that the power button has continuity through the ribbon cable to the capacitor at the top. Likewise the vol+ button has continuity to the top of the bottom capacitor. If I connect a wire to the alternate vol+ (on back of the mainboard) and touch it to ground, it does successfully activate vol+.

I'm really stumped so can anybody help me?

IMG_2352.jpeg
 

MaxiBus

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I haven't read the entire thread, so I don't know if this has already been addressed.

In the picture with the alternate solder points, there is an error at the 3.3v points. The one on the right causes error 2101-0001, the switch will not start.
 

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EmoryEmerson

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Hello,
Wondering if someone can spot what I've done wrong. I've finished soldering, though I still can't get my Switch to boot into APX. Thoughts?
IMG_0562.jpg
 

Everlasting1337

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Hello,
Wondering if someone can spot what I've done wrong. I've finished soldering, though I still can't get my Switch to boot into APX. Thoughts? View attachment 249805
I can think of three points which may be at fault, the 3.3v line you wired, the rcm line on the left, and the vol+ line. Does it flash, the trinket at all?
 

Cosmic_Link

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Hello,
Wondering if someone can spot what I've done wrong. I've finished soldering, though I still can't get my Switch to boot into APX. Thoughts? View attachment 249805

For what it's worth, since you have the motherboard out anyway, why don't you solder to the alt test points on the back instead? It's much easier as the points are huge and you're not soldering onto tiny components, so there's less chance of soldering being the issue. I mean, it's all personal preference I guess... I'm not one for trouble shooting, but since I have done a few of these and always soldered to the alt points, I haven't had a single issue with any of the units I've modded. ^_^ Sorry if my reply hasn't been very helpful... :unsure:

Is the back of the trinket insulated?
 
Last edited by Cosmic_Link,

Edu1710

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Hi, I'm new to GBAtemp. I apologise if I'm doing something wrong.

Here's my question: Is Joycon strap (the orange highlitghted pad) connected to right joycon pin 10?

I'm planning to add an rcm button to my Switch main unit. If that test pad is pin 10, I guess that a button wired to it and gnd + vol up + pwr will boot to RCM.

P.D.: I've already tried some permanent joycon mods but I don't like them. Autorcm is not an option as it may be detected by Horizon when playing stock fw
 

chronosvrs

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Hi, first sorry if this is wrong place, I searched the thread and I'm still have some questions.

Here is my situation, my switch USB-C port seems to be defective, I can charge, I can dock, BUT no device recognize RCM anymore, so I can't send payloads, that's when I found this thread.

1) can this solve my problem, since I won't need a dongle or PC to send data?
2) As mentioned above my USB-C is defective, in the case of adafruit boards, can I keep the USB port for updates?
 

16v

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Hey Guys,

I killed the alternative joy con pad on the back of the pcb...

Switch is working, and M0 works also fine, BUT, payload is not working. I can only boot to OFW.

Same when using a payload device...
Only removing NAND will boot to cfw...

Any ideas?

Thank you all
 
Last edited by 16v,

de9ed

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Hi, first sorry if this is wrong place, I searched the thread and I'm still have some questions.

Here is my situation, my switch USB-C port seems to be defective, I can charge, I can dock, BUT no device recognize RCM anymore, so I can't send payloads, that's when I found this thread.

1) can this solve my problem, since I won't need a dongle or PC to send data?
2) As mentioned above my USB-C is defective, in the case of adafruit boards, can I keep the USB port for updates?

1. Yes this can send payload for you (as long as sd card works)
2. As long as D+ and D- works, it should be fine
 

de9ed

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Hey Guys,

I killed the alternative joy con pad on the back of the pcb...

Switch is working, and M0 works also fine, BUT, payload is not working. I can only boot to OFW.

Same when using a payload device...
Only removing NAND will boot to cfw...

Any ideas?

Rhank you all
First, thanks for the reply!


I mean, can I keep the Trinket USB, since the tutorial removes it, I'm assuming lack of space inside the switch.

Just hey a rcm x86 if possible. Easier to install
 

FunThomas

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???
Was this my question?

Gesendet von meinem SM-G975F mit Tapatalk
some bad soldering ;-)

i think you know what the trinket needs to boot cfw, check your wiring/soldering

you can shortcut joycon with a jig or/and press vol+ at boot to check whats missing
 
Last edited by FunThomas,

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