Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[wiiando]

Right joycon acting up is usually the ribbon cable for the right rail hasn't been inserted correctly, if it was disconnected for the joycon pin for rcm, you'll maybe find it won't charge the right joycon either.

From the sounds of it though, you may have other issues, i'd take it back to the "pro" and see what he says

 

[jasongan]

Gulp...

Right... Your wires look a little long. Id shorten them.

So you are getting boot.dat missing every now and again?

Is your SD card reader fitted correctly?

Are you using exfat?

Could you have some SD card corruption?

but when i pressing the volume up and power button pc show it going rcm mode ns still black screen ...i try to connect sx pro dongle it work ...maybe modchip is damaged ....sd card is exfat format ..i already double checkup the soldering and arrange the jumper wire to correct ..

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

What has happened to the ground point?
Have you sat the MicroSD board correctly?

ori mode it show sd card storage ... and using sx dongle it can playing game..


Ground point i already re-arrange ...thanks

 

[Visual Studio]

Is openocd in that image configured for SWD or JTAG?

 

[dekuleon]

Right joycon acting up is usually the ribbon cable for the right rail hasn't been inserted correctly, if it was disconnected for the joycon pin for rcm, you'll maybe find it won't charge the right joycon either.

From the sounds of it though, you may have other issues, i'd take it back to the "pro" and see what he says

Yeah indeed, he's a crappy pro lol
No idea what he did... I'll maybe ask him to do a 4 wire install instead.
But what about my setup? Is it right?

Everything is confusing, sometimes it will boot to SX, sometimes it won't, and I need to plug the USB cable, and when I press reset on the Debug it acts like power button... Many mysteries.

 

[johnd0e]

You have marked the USB-C connector as 2... This needs to go to ONE of the points I shown. Doesn`t matter which...

No getting around it, you MUST solder to the USB-C

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

View attachment 147598

Hi Matty...
Finally I get my switch fixed following your guides. Well to be honest, a professional fixed the missing pad, linking again both traces joined in that test point with a microscope and a scalpel to get access to the trace in the sub-layer. But that made "impossible" to use it to solder the cable to that point anymore, so using your tips I used the point you suggested in the attached photo, from the two options we initially have, to connect it to the SwitchME and after some quick tests it seems everything is working fine.
So again, thank you so much for your valuable input and quick response to all my doubts!.
Now I'm a lot curious and fascinated about all this microscope work... mmmmm... this could be a new challenge

 

[dekuleon]

So... I was analysing what has been done on my switch...

I can only turn it on using a USB cable sending power, can be a USB cable on the power adaptor or USB.
AutoRCM is uninstalled.

6 Wires method with Rebug.

If I turn on by sending the power for the USB, it goes to horizon original OS.
When I press the reset on the Rebug, it turns off my screen and disconeects right joy-con.

If I press power button on my siwtch, the chip blinks the data light.

It this all normal or how was it supposed to work?

I thought by using 6 wires method Id just press power button on my switch and the rebug whould do the RCM and launch SX OS.

Any clue @mattytrog ?

 

[nestaa51]

METHOD 2 @metaljay maybe?

Right... Anyone feeling brave?

I`ve modified the bootloader for the trinket.

Can upload but make sure you have openocd set up to flash the original back if you like after as entering bootloader mode is no longer possible (double-press reset / to install UF2 is now disabled)

So I recommend a chainloader. But the straps pull low straight away now. Just want to confirm it is fast enough for RCM. Any takers?

In fact, sod it.

Below is a BIN file...

This is the drill...

Method 3 TRINKET users only please! They are the best candidates...

This involves changing your Trinket power supply point to the one on the eMMC NAND or capacitor (as in method 1).

Flash the attached BIN file with your openOCD rig (SWDIO) - I`ve done that so you can get back to the original Trinket bootloader. If I upload the bootloader update UF2, people will be stuck with this experiment. I know this is a dick move by me but I`m excluding standard UF2 users incase this is not successful.

No damage can come to your console from this... Worse case is you have to flash the original Trinket bootloader back and your old UF2 after that.

Once you have flashed it, SWITCHBOOT will open. Put your payload launcher UF2 (from this thread or the chainloader thread).

The straps SHOULD pull low fast enough to boot to boot RCM.

I have a UF2, but if for whatever reason you need to change it, you MUST USE OPENOCD as double-press is now disabled.

If this works, then we have cracked it... Method 3 with no battery drain. Dual-boot or whatever as you like WITHOUT autoRCM.

Someone try it.

Has anyone tested this yet? Curious to see if it will work.

I have two issues right now matty.

I am using method 2 6 wire setup with trinket m0.

Originally I had 3v going to the capacitor shown in post. The trinket would not turn on and was causing power button and joycon to not be recognized. Bad situation.
I then switched to the nand 3v point. The trinket would only boot if plugged into usb charger.

So finally, I soldered the 5v from method 3 to batt. I am successfully in hekate bootloader after holding vol+ button.

This is not ideal for me obviously. What is the way forward here?

I would like method 3 where I auto boot into rcm without needing to hold vol+, but I plan to just use this switch to mess with homebrew on the weekends, so it might run out of battery.

Is there a way to get method 2 to work with vol+? How about boot without supplemental USB power?

Thanks,
Alex

 

[mattytrog]

Has anyone tested this yet? Curious to see if it will work.

I have two issues right now matty.

I am using method 2 6 wire setup with trinket m0.

Originally I had 3v going to the capacitor shown in post. The trinket would not turn on and was causing power button and joycon to not be recognized. Bad situation.
I then switched to the nand 3v point. The trinket would only boot if plugged into usb charger.

So finally, I soldered the 5v from method 3 to batt. I am successfully in hekate bootloader after holding vol+ button.

This is not ideal for me obviously. What is the way forward here?

I would like method 3 where I auto boot into rcm without needing to hold vol+, but I plan to just use this switch to mess with homebrew on the weekends, so it might run out of battery.

Is there a way to get method 2 to work with vol+? How about boot without supplemental USB power?

Thanks,
Alex

Yes. Tested. Still not fast enough (The test bootloader I was referring to) to beat the Nintendo bootloader.

Lets go through your points one by one...

Originally I had 3v going to the capacitor shown in post. The trinket would not turn on and was causing power button and joycon to not be recognized. Bad situation.
I then switched to the nand 3v point. The trinket would only boot if plugged into usb charger.

This should not happen. At all.

If the trinket was not booting (ie dead) and you have definitely soldered the capacitor correctly, I would suggest there is a problem with your ground point. It has to work. As the 3.3v point to all areas is the same trace. If it was a problem with the actual point, your NAND would not work... m92t36 would not work... A load of problems would ensue...

So finally, I soldered the 5v from method 3 to batt. I am successfully in hekate bootloader after holding vol+ button.

Can you boot into original firmware without holding vol+?

Summary... The quest continues for the bootloader for method 2.

The only workaround I have found that works reliably is disabling the straps in code. As the joycon strap for method 2 is grounded via hardware means (upon pressing reset / shorting reset pad on trinket) in the SAMD21 which we cannot control. However, restarts will continue to be a problem.

If anyone is running method 2, use the Trinket ShaXLoader from the BASIC UF2 FILES thread... Get version 4 and change the mode to one that doesn`t have straps enabled... (mode 6 maybe?)

 

[DaminouTav]

Just a question, are these 2 points connected ? I would like to know if i have to solder just one the indicated one or if doesn't mater if my solder touch both ...
Thanks !

 

[nestaa51]

Yes. Tested. Still not fast enough (The test bootloader I was referring to) to beat the Nintendo bootloader.

Lets go through your points one by one...



This should not happen. At all.

If the trinket was not booting (ie dead) and you have definitely soldered the capacitor correctly, I would suggest there is a problem with your ground point. It has to work. As the 3.3v point to all areas is the same trace. If it was a problem with the actual point, your NAND would not work... m92t36 would not work... A load of problems would ensue...



Can you boot into original firmware without holding vol+?

Summary... The quest continues for the bootloader for method 2.

The only workaround I have found that works reliably is disabling the straps in code. As the joycon strap for method 2 is grounded via hardware means (upon pressing reset / shorting reset pad on trinket) in the SAMD21 which we cannot control. However, restarts will continue to be a problem.

If anyone is running method 2, use the Trinket ShaXLoader from the BASIC UF2 FILES thread... Get version 4 and change the mode to one that doesn`t have straps enabled... (mode 6 maybe?)

Thank you for your response!

1) Though I have not resoldered yet, my ground point does not look great, so that may be the source of the weird trinket behavior.

2) yes I can boot into ofw without holding vol+

3) I will try the other uf2 you suggested. What do you mean by joycon strap? Are you just referring to the point on the board connected to the trinket? Does this mean a jig is required for mode 6?

 

[bill55]

I’m having some issues. I am using one of the original 4 wire methods for my switchme using 5v. Flashed with reinx.uf2. Whenever I power on the switch I basically have to hold the power button down until the menu comes up. Pressing it normally does nothing usually but everything works fine once it comes up. I have RCM turned on via the menu and not via the switchme wiring.

I powered it off yesterday and can’t get it back on now. I’ve tried holding the power button for a long time or short times. I’ve clicked the switchme switch to try and reset it. I even reflashed it. (It does show up in windows when I double click the switchme button) The Switch does nothing all the sudden. Won’t power on at all.

Any ideas or things I can try before ripping it apart? Everything was working fine before powering it off yesterday.

Thanks!

 

[mattytrog]

Thank you for your response!

1) Though I have not resoldered yet, my ground point does not look great, so that may be the source of the weird trinket behavior.

2) yes I can boot into ofw without holding vol+

3) I will try the other uf2 you suggested. What do you mean by joycon strap? Are you just referring to the point on the board connected to the trinket? Does this mean a jig is required for mode 6?

The joycon strap is the wire that goes from the switchme / trinket to the joycon rail (or close to it) to simulate inserting a jig.

There are lots of different modes on the ShaXLauncher. My aim is to consolidate everything into one file eventually so one version really fit all.

When I mention "dropping the straps", I really mean putting the point to GND to simulate an action. So if I say "drop the vol+ strap", this will simulate the vol+ button going to GND - a button press... Same with "drop the joycon strap" - means "drop" the joycon point to GND to simulate a jig in the joycon rail.

I’m having some issues. I am using one of the original 4 wire methods for my switchme using 5v. Flashed with reinx.uf2. Whenever I power on the switch I basically have to hold the power button down until the menu comes up. Pressing it normally does nothing usually but everything works fine once it comes up. I have RCM turned on via the menu and not via the switchme wiring.

I powered it off yesterday and can’t get it back on now. I’ve tried holding the power button for a long time or short times. I’ve clicked the switchme switch to try and reset it. I even reflashed it. (It does show up in windows when I double click the switchme button) The Switch does nothing all the sudden. Won’t power on at all.

Any ideas or things I can try before ripping it apart? Everything was working fine before powering it off yesterday.

Thanks!

Hello Bill...

Sounds very strange to me...

Can you take a picture of your install please?

This could be a shorted capacitor point. Or a battery issue. Won`t know more until you post a picture of your install.

 

[bill55]

Hello Bill...

Sounds very strange to me...

Can you take a picture of your install please?

This could be a shorted capacitor point. Or a battery issue. Won`t know more until you post a picture of your install.

[/QUOTE]

I’ll try and get a pic up later tonight after work. It’s just odd that it worked up until power off yesterday and now I get nothing. Should I rewire to the new 4 wire ‘on at power-up’ method? The one that I used isn’t even on the switchme git any longer.

What wiring method should I be using?

Thanks!

 

[mattytrog]

I’ll try and get a pic up later tonight after work. It’s just odd that it worked up until power off yesterday and now I get nothing. Should I rewire to the new 4 wire ‘on at power-up’ method? The one that I used isn’t even on the switchme git any longer.

What wiring method should I be using?

Thanks!

With autoRCM?

Method 1 without a doubt.

In the OP of this thread.

 

[bill55]

With autoRCM?

Method 1 without a doubt.

In the OP of this thread.

Autorcm is enabled via the software menu. I am not using the wiring method of the chip to autorcm. Do you know what I mean? Not sure if I am wording it correctly.

Thanks

 

[mattytrog]

Autorcm is enabled via the software menu. I am not using the wiring method of the chip to autorcm. Do you know what I mean? Not sure if I am wording it correctly.

Thanks

Yes of course.

you are using autoRCM probably installed from SXOS / Hekate / Briccmii and not the chip getting you to RCM.

Yes.
You should be using method 1.

 

[DaminouTav]

Just a question, are these 2 points connected ? I would like to know if i have to solder just one the indicated one or if doesn't mater if my solder touch both ...
Thanks !

Anyone ? :/

 

[mattytrog]

Anyone ? :/

Sorry young man. Missed your post.

Yes you can link them. They are linked anyway.

 

[bill55]

Yes of course.

you are using autoRCM probably installed from SXOS / Hekate / Briccmii and not the chip getting you to RCM.

Yes.
You should be using method 1.

Yes. I believe I installed it from hekate. Not using the chip to rcm.

What payload should I be using on the switchme? What do you recommend?

 

[peteruk]

If anyone is contemplating getting one of these but can't make up there mind I say go for it 100%, the best things I ever had done to my Switch

Plus @mattytrog offers a great installation service if needed, top notch fitting and comms