Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[Cosmic_Link]

Right... Ensure it is completely off... I know this may seem obvious as its bloody flat. But it may be in RCM.
Hold down power for 12 seconds...
Put console in dock - leave for an hour
Connect to PC and attempt power-on. Should go into RCM
Send a payload - Hekate / SXOS or whatever... Let it sit on the payload screen. Leave it on this screen.
Disconnect from PC...
Place back in dock. Leave for further half hour - Attempt to boot
Should boot with maybe 3% battery. Get it back on dock again and leave until charged.

Thanks for your help mate. Unfortunately I have been unable to get any response out of the console at all. When plugged into the dock, the dock light just flashes. I've had a replacement battery come this morning, so I'm gonna swap out the battery and remove the trinket to avoid this from happening in future. Might have a look at another one of the methods instead.

If you have a method for charging the battery externally to the console or any other ideas on how I could get the original battery working again, that would be great.

Cheers mate.

 

[mattytrog]

Thanks for your help mate. Unfortunately I have been unable to get any response out of the console at all. When plugged into the dock, the dock light just flashes. I've had a replacement battery come this morning, so I'm gonna swap out the battery and remove the trinket to avoid this from happening in future. Might have a look at another one of the methods instead.

If you have a method for charging the battery externally to the console or any other ideas on how I could get the original battery working again, that would be great.

Cheers mate.

Flashing lights on dock is normally bridged capacitors. The methods are tried and tested mate. Post an install pic and we will take a look. Don't give up now.

 

[Cosmic_Link]

Flashing lights on dock is normally bridged capacitors. The methods are tried and tested mate. Post an install pic and we will take a look. Don't give up now.

Hmmmm...... I have had a look over all of my points again and it does look like I bridged a capacitor. I have re-done the affected area and I will try and dock it again. I will feedback.

Edit: You were right good sir! I didn't see your post until I had already removed the trinket wires though. XD I will reinstall now... lol

 

[Visual Studio]

I did method 2 and I have to plug in a USB C cable every time to get it to launch the payload, why would that be?

On the image it says to hook up the RST pin to the power button but in the code it says pin 4 is for hooking to the power button.

 

[mattytrog]

I did method 2 and I have to plug in a USB C cable every time to get it to launch the payload, why would that be?

On the image it says to hook up the RST pin to the power button but in the code it says pin 4 is for hooking to the power button.

I know.

This thread is a lot to read through.

With method 2, there is a problem. I'm not going to explain it thoroughly as I have already numerous times in this thread.

Nutshell... The trinkrt doesn't boot fast enough for method 2. Now I have modified the bootloader to correct this... Go back a few pages but had no feedback from this.

Using the rst pad was a means to an end. There is a quirk / feature in the samd that pulls one of the pins (3) low down the joycon on hard reset. Have a look through this thread. What I need is someone to test that bootloader on a method 3 install but nobody has.

Have a read back. It will make sense.

 

[Visual Studio]

I know.

This thread is a lot to read through.

With method 2, there is a problem. I'm not going to explain it thoroughly as I have already numerous times in this thread.

Nutshell... The trinkrt doesn't boot fast enough for method 2. Now I have modified the bootloader to correct this... Go back a few pages but had no feedback from this.

Using the rst pad was a means to an end. There is a quirk / feature in the samd that pulls one of the pins (3) low down the joycon on hard reset. Have a look through this thread. What I need is someone to test that bootloader on a method 3 install but nobody has.

Have a read back. It will make sense.

Is it a UF2 file?

 

[mattytrog]

Is it a UF2 file?

No. It's a bin file

And there is a reason it isn't. I have the UF2 file.

If you want to go back to the original bootloader, you need openocd. As it disables double tap reset to enter uf2 mode

 

[Visual Studio]

No. It's a bin file

And there is a reason it isn't. I have the UF2 file.

If you want to go back to the original bootloader, you need openocd. As it disables double tap reset to enter uf2 mode

Does that require any special wiring to achieve?

 

[mattytrog]

Does that require any special wiring to achieve?

Yes.

It needs flashing via serial. If you look in OP, you will see a section called "build your own".

If I provided the UF2, I would get people shouting at me as they are unable to enter UF2 mode after flashing it. And because they dont have an OpenOCD rig, they are screwed.

 

[Visual Studio]

Yes.

It needs flashing via serial. If you look in OP, you will see a section called "build your own".

If I provided the UF2, I would get people shouting at me as they are unable to enter UF2 mode after flashing it. And because they dont have an OpenOCD rig, they are screwed.

Your post says method 3 only on the bootloader.

 

[mattytrog]

Your post says method 3 only on the bootloader.

Yes because method 3 is the closest to method 2. You need to change the power point from permanent 5v to a 3.3v switched point. I hope you have something to reflash the original trinket bootloader if needed. Because you cannot use a uf2

 

[Visual Studio]

Yes because method 3 is the closest to method 2. You need to change the power point from permanent 5v to a 3.3v switched point. I hope you have something to reflash the original trinket bootloader if needed. Because you cannot use a uf2

The binary you attached was a uf2

 

[mattytrog]

The binary you attached was a uf2

Hang on We are on about 2 different things here I think!

I was referring to the test bootloader I posted.

 

[Visual Studio]

Hang on We are on about 2 different things here I think!

I was referring to the test bootloader I posted.

I'm referring to the one on page 85.

 

[mattytrog]

I'm referring to the one on page 85.

Yes. It's a BIN. Not a uf2

 

[Noobert]

All done with my Tiny Soldering™.

Fantastic guide @mattytrog, Method 3 worked like a charm!

 

[jasongan]

Help Matt.....sometimes start up it just show up boot missing something nothing show up...checkup the solder point is ok .... 1st time install this chip what can I do ?(Rcmx86 modchip)

 

[mattytrog]

Help Matt.....sometimes start up it just show up boot missing something nothing show up...checkup the solder point is ok .... 1st time install this chip what can I do ?(Rcmx86 modchip)

Gulp...

Right... Your wires look a little long. Id shorten them.

So you are getting boot.dat missing every now and again?

Is your SD card reader fitted correctly?

Are you using exfat?

Could you have some SD card corruption?

 

[metaljay]

What has happened to the ground point?
Have you sat the MicroSD board correctly?

 

[dekuleon]

Hello!

A professional installed the Rebug chip for me, 6 wires method, since I want RCM completely off to preserve battery while powered off... But i Dont know if its right...
I placed the Version 1 - S2 Version files on my rebug chip using USB, then the 0 folder and sx playload renamed on my SD card.

Then I disabled the RCM.

The switch doesnt power on by itself using the power button... but the power button works. I have to use a USB Cable to power on my switch.

AND, if I press the Rebug button on the back, the screen turns on and off like if I was pressing the power button.

They joy-cons are messy, specially the right one, and the DATA led on the chip is always blinking on and kinda off.

What could it be?

 

[dekuleon]

Well well... my joy-cons are totally crazy... disconecting all the time and crazy stuff going on...