Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[DaminouTav]

Sorry young man. Missed your post.

Yes you can link them. They are linked anyway.

Thanks you very much

 

[bill55]

Yes of course.

you are using autoRCM probably installed from SXOS / Hekate / Briccmii and not the chip getting you to RCM.

Yes.
You should be using method 1.

Opened it up and no wires came off. Disconnected and reconnected battery. Chip is not even getting a light now. Even with power cable connected. When I put a multimeter on the battery it’s about 2.5v. The battery says 3.7 on it but I’m taking the reading with it connected so im not sure what to expect. When I take a reading at my 5v point I’m using it also says 2.5 though.

What do you think? Battery issue? It would just be so odd that it was fine until I shut it down.

Thanks

 

[mattytrog]

Opened it up and no wires came off. Disconnected and reconnected battery. Chip is not even getting a light now. Even with power cable connected. When I put a multimeter on the battery it’s about 2.5v. The battery says 3.7 on it but I’m taking the reading with it connected so im not sure what to expect. When I take a reading at my 5v point I’m using it also says 2.5 though.

What do you think? Battery issue? It would just be so odd that it was fine until I shut it down.

Thanks

It is flat. Very flat.

 

[bill55]

It is flat. Very flat.

Does that mean I need a new battery?

 

[mattytrog]

Does that mean I need a new battery?

No. It means you need to boost it up to about 3v -3.5v then put back in such to see if it charges

 

[bill55]

No. It means you need to boost it up to about 3v -3.5v then put back in such to see if it charges

I did get a new battery in and system still won’t turn on. I moved my 5v wire to the one on the emmc board and changed to 3v connection on switchme. I get no light on the chip but i think that’s becauer the system isn’t on. My other point always had power. When I go back to that point the chip light comes on. Can’t turn on system still.

This just doesn’t make any sense how it could work then not power back on after running fine for months.

One other thing to note. When I plug in another switch that is turned off the battery icon comes on the screen. This one does nothing when plugged in. Is there something that could have come unplugged to prevent power from getting to the system to turn on?

Any ideas?

 

[bill55]

Will the switchme work on the rev 2 (patches) version of the Switch?

 

[mattytrog]

Will the switchme work on the rev 2 (patches) version of the Switch?

No. Short answer.

Why? Because fusee gelee is patched on the latest units.

If there are other exploits in the bootloader then these could be made to work with the samd.

 

[mattytrog]

OK... Biggish update to the chainloader coming up if anyone is interested...

New features... All in ONE UF2!!!

• Mode switch enabled providing different modes for your SAMD device
• Single payload mode
  
• Up to 8 payloads (based on SX gear) - with graphic indication
  
• Hekate Built-In
• With space left over for a small payload.

You might be thinking "You have done all this already fatboy"

However... not like this... Payloads have been compressed, so total forwarders/payloads stored in that little chip has increased...

It used to have 8 payloads and that was the lot.

Now it has the same 8 payloads, plus a 9th payload for "single payload mode", Hekate 4.2 built-in and space for another payload on top of this...

So, possibly 11 payloads on the chip.

All selectable with the "mode switch"... Check my git later for more info if anyone is the slightest bit interested...

 

[bill55]

No. Short answer.

Why? Because fusee gelee is patched on the latest units.

If there are other exploits in the bootloader then these could be made to work with the samd.

Thanks for the info. Any suggestions on what to do? It just doesn’t seem like power is getting to the board or something.

Even with the switchme light pulsating which should mean I can connect it to pc, the drive still wouldn’t show up in Windows. Am I looking at a bad motherboard? Anything I can try?

Thanks for the help.

 

[Moquedami]

Hi!
First of all thanks to mattytrog for all the documentation and support.
I´m planning on doing my rebug install this week. I still haven´t decided between methods 1 or 2. I would like a wired RMC but i see method 2 has shown some problems, so maybe method 1 with auto RMC would be the best.
I was thinking, would it be a good idea to install a small external switch to cut battery power to the motherboard to aboid battery drain?
Would the power cut affect the chip in any way?

 

[mattytrog]

Hi!
First of all thanks to mattytrog for all the documentation and support.
I´m planning on doing my rebug install this week. I still haven´t decided between methods 1 or 2. I would like a wired RMC but i see method 2 has shown some problems, so maybe method 1 with auto RMC would be the best.
I was thinking, would it be a good idea to install a small external switch to cut battery power to the motherboard to aboid battery drain?
Would the power cut affect the chip in any way?

Not necessary with method 1.

Top tip!!!

With method 1, you can still connect the joycon strap (as in method 2 & 3). This avoids you having to use a jig to enter RCM. You can just "push on the back cover" to hold down reset switch on switchme / trinket. This means you don`t need to use a jig to enter RCM (as long as you hold vol+ at the same time as pushing the "back cover"... Be warned though... If you don`t have autoRCM enabled and you don`t "push back cover in" and hold vol+, it will be a normal boot, burning your fuses if you are trying to save them...

 

[Moquedami]

Thanks for your quick answer.
Yes, my main idea is to avoid using a jig.
Let me see if i got the tip right, the idea is to do an installation with 5 wires (no power switch), and to press reset on the chip manually?
The bad in the 4 wire installation witch auto RMC would be battery drain only? or there is any other drawback i should consider?

 

[mattytrog]

Thanks for your quick answer.
Yes, my main idea is to avoid using a jig.
Let me see if i got the tip right, the idea is to do an installation with 5 wires (no power switch), and to press reset on the chip manually?
The bad in the 4 wire installation witch auto RMC would be battery drain only? or there is any other drawback i should consider?

There would be no battery drain as the switchme is turned on and off by the console.

Also, as it is fitted internally, the shutdown procedure can complete correctly.

 

[Moquedami]

That´s it then. I think method 1 is the way to go for me.
So, the battery drain problem is mostly related to external dongles and does not affect internal chip mods?

 

[mattytrog]

That´s it then. I think method 1 is the way to go for me.
So, the battery drain problem is mostly related to external dongles and does not affect internal chip mods?

Correct

 

[metaljay]

@mattytrog have you noticed when installing switchmes the button can sometimes get stuck on the cover? I installed one in my sisters this week and the cover is incredibly sensitive to the button...

 

[mattytrog]

@mattytrog have you noticed when installing switchmes the button can sometimes get stuck on the cover? I installed one in my sisters this week and the cover is incredibly sensitive to the button...

Yep. That's why we modify the back plate. Neat job!

 

[metaljay]

Yep. That's why we modify the back plate

Just seems a little extreme to cut the heat cover, I remember you saying months ago that it made negligible difference to heat dissipation but still, either way I’ll take it apart tonight and get the scissors out!

 

[mattytrog]

Just seems a little extreme to cut the heat cover, I remember you saying months ago that it made negligible difference to heat dissipation but still, either way I’ll take it apart tonight and get the scissors out!

It does. The metal plate is vital to the switch.

There is compound under it on top of the heat pipe to further dissipate heat.

However, chopping it above the ram shielding (where we fit our chips makes no difference to the effectiveness of the shield.

Other options are to pop the nipple off the reset button, modify the back plastic cover slightly (touch soldering iron to make an indent where the button nipple is, or do away with the switch altogether and pop back cover off to activate bootloader mode.