a few years ago i whipped out my old psone from the garage to mess with tonyhax, i tried burning it on a external dvd burner i had and the game didn't work. So then i pulled out my old Windows XP PC with a old burner, might have been a 8x burner and when i burned on that one it worked. i used the same media brand too so i assume write speeds definitely do play a factor.
a few years ago i whipped out my old psone from the garage to mess with tonyhax, i tried burning it on a external dvd burner i had and the game didn't work. So then i pulled out my old Windows XP PC with a old burner, might have been a 8x burner and when i burned on that one it worked. i used the same media brand too so i assume write speeds definitely do play a factor.
I was over at a friend's house and sitting on her home office desk was this spindle of CD-R
, still with it's sun faded label showing that it was made in Taiwan. I got it for free from her as she totally forgotten why she kept it around.
3 of the discs was already burned. But the good news is that it only 1 of blank discs was a Memorex 74min CD-R
and the rest of the 15 blank discs were TDK 74min CD-R
. Comparing the back of the 2 discs
, the TDK one is much more blue
.
The ImgBurn info for the Memorex:
Disc ID: 97m26s66f
Manufacturer: CMC Magnetics Corp.
Start Time of LeadIn: 97m26s66f
Last Possible Start Time of LeadOut: 75m00s00f
The ImgBurn info for the TDK:
ATIP Information:
Disc ID: 97m24s01f
Manufacturer: Taiyo Yuden Co.
Start Time of LeadIn: 97m24s01f
Last Possible Start Time of LeadOut: 74m43s00f
I was so surprise that the TDK discs were made by TY, as Alex's guide shows the ones made by Ritek. My friend didn't have the original spindle/label for the TDKs, but I'm pretty sure these TDKs were made in Japan being disc info shows TY. Guess either TDK had multiple sources or switch from TY to Ritek as some point.
Now I don't want to burn these TDKs on my GTA0N burner, as 10x is slowest that this burner will do down to. I do have internal SATA burners made by LiteOn, Sony, and LG. So I will test out the Verbatim DataLifePlus that I bought on eBay on those burners before I think about burning these TDKs.
, still with it's sun faded label showing that it was made in Taiwan. I got it for free from her as she totally forgotten why she kept it around.3 of the discs was already burned. But the good news is that it only 1 of blank discs was a Memorex 74min CD-R
and the rest of the 15 blank discs were TDK 74min CD-R. Comparing the back of the 2 discs, the TDK one is much more blue.The ImgBurn info for the Memorex:
Disc ID: 97m26s66f
Manufacturer: CMC Magnetics Corp.
Start Time of LeadIn: 97m26s66f
Last Possible Start Time of LeadOut: 75m00s00f
The ImgBurn info for the TDK:
ATIP Information:
Disc ID: 97m24s01f
Manufacturer: Taiyo Yuden Co.
Start Time of LeadIn: 97m24s01f
Last Possible Start Time of LeadOut: 74m43s00f
I was so surprise that the TDK discs were made by TY, as Alex's guide shows the ones made by Ritek. My friend didn't have the original spindle/label for the TDKs, but I'm pretty sure these TDKs were made in Japan being disc info shows TY. Guess either TDK had multiple sources or switch from TY to Ritek as some point.
Now I don't want to burn these TDKs on my GTA0N burner, as 10x is slowest that this burner will do down to. I do have internal SATA burners made by LiteOn, Sony, and LG. So I will test out the Verbatim DataLifePlus that I bought on eBay on those burners before I think about burning these TDKs.
Last edited by xraymind,
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Do you have a benchmark test image to see how well the discs perform? They will definitely help out.
After reading through this thread and Alex's excellent CD-R guide, I've went down a bit of a rabbit hole with this and after a bit of trial and error, I seem to be getting good results on my SCPH-5500 console.
I've done a few burns now with a Lite-On iHas124 Y, (it's a sata drive manufactured in October 2009, and it seems to be near identical to the iHas124 B that wolffangalchemist had success with earlier in this thread) burning to those 80 min CMC Pro "Powered by TY technology" discs at a speed of 8x.
At first I was using imgburn to burn them, but after a bit more research, I've settled on using Alcohol 120% in RAW DAO mode which iirc preserves extra data like subchannel data better than imgburn (CDRDAO is probably the better choice here, but I haven't really tested it yet myself).
Here are the benchmark results from a disc burnt with that setup, a C1 average of 0.3, maximum of 22, and total of 976, which as far as I can tell is REALLY good. Just for fun, I also tested a scratched up original FFVII disc, and that recorded C2 errors (the really bad type!) at a maximum of 5,209 and a total count of 53,438!
Before settling on this drive, I tried a cheapo usb external drive which worked about as well as you'd expect (the PS1 wouldn't even detect the discs), and then seemingly had success with the interal drive in an old Dell Optiplex 3040, but I haven't benchmarked the disc from that, and I expect it'd be a lot worse than the iHas124.
I have noticed quite lengthy load times on the PS1 compared to original discs with this setup, but I assume that's just the nature of the 80 minute discs causing the laser to overseek.
Interestingly (and a bit out of scope for this thread), when using the exact same setup to burn a disc for my PC Engine Duo (which reads original discs perfectly), the Duo just spins the disc forever and never loads anything (it sounds like the laser is trying to read the disc, gives up after a while and then restarts, which sounds like a fatal overseek sort of error to me).
Since it's an older console, I bet it just can't handle the 80 minute disc, so I went searching for some good 74 minute discs.
After checking literally every local charity shop, I couldn't find even a single cd-r, but after checking online ended up finding some Taiyo Yuden discs that are apparently 74 minute discs! I also ended up finding a Plextor PX-708A drive cheap, so I'll update here once those arrive to see if they can improve the long load times on the PS1, or get a game working on the PCE (I'm also interested to see if the C1 error performance is better than the 80 min disc + iHas124 combo).
I'm also keeping an eye out for cheap CD-R's online, and I'm gonna grab as many unique ones as I can to try and collect some more data on which ones are good, and hopefully I can get a nice little spreadsheet going of their error rates, load times etc.
I've done a few burns now with a Lite-On iHas124 Y, (it's a sata drive manufactured in October 2009, and it seems to be near identical to the iHas124 B that wolffangalchemist had success with earlier in this thread) burning to those 80 min CMC Pro "Powered by TY technology" discs at a speed of 8x.
At first I was using imgburn to burn them, but after a bit more research, I've settled on using Alcohol 120% in RAW DAO mode which iirc preserves extra data like subchannel data better than imgburn (CDRDAO is probably the better choice here, but I haven't really tested it yet myself).
Here are the benchmark results from a disc burnt with that setup, a C1 average of 0.3, maximum of 22, and total of 976, which as far as I can tell is REALLY good. Just for fun, I also tested a scratched up original FFVII disc, and that recorded C2 errors (the really bad type!) at a maximum of 5,209 and a total count of 53,438!
Before settling on this drive, I tried a cheapo usb external drive which worked about as well as you'd expect (the PS1 wouldn't even detect the discs), and then seemingly had success with the interal drive in an old Dell Optiplex 3040, but I haven't benchmarked the disc from that, and I expect it'd be a lot worse than the iHas124.
I have noticed quite lengthy load times on the PS1 compared to original discs with this setup, but I assume that's just the nature of the 80 minute discs causing the laser to overseek.
Interestingly (and a bit out of scope for this thread), when using the exact same setup to burn a disc for my PC Engine Duo (which reads original discs perfectly), the Duo just spins the disc forever and never loads anything (it sounds like the laser is trying to read the disc, gives up after a while and then restarts, which sounds like a fatal overseek sort of error to me).
Since it's an older console, I bet it just can't handle the 80 minute disc, so I went searching for some good 74 minute discs.
After checking literally every local charity shop, I couldn't find even a single cd-r, but after checking online ended up finding some Taiyo Yuden discs that are apparently 74 minute discs! I also ended up finding a Plextor PX-708A drive cheap, so I'll update here once those arrive to see if they can improve the long load times on the PS1, or get a game working on the PCE (I'm also interested to see if the C1 error performance is better than the 80 min disc + iHas124 combo).
I'm also keeping an eye out for cheap CD-R's online, and I'm gonna grab as many unique ones as I can to try and collect some more data on which ones are good, and hopefully I can get a nice little spreadsheet going of their error rates, load times etc.
I'm planning to. As I mention in my previous posts and what I want to do is:Do you have a benchmark test image to see how well the discs perform? They will definitely help out.
- I found 6 SATA disc burners in my storage boxes.
- My current USB slim burner(GTA0N)'s slowest write speed 10x. Not planning to burn anymore PS1 game on it.
- I want to burn these TDK at max speed of 8x.
- I'm waiting for the 80min Verbatim DataLifePlus to arrive to test which drives are good at burning at 8X or slower.
- I'm willing have badly burned discs with the DataLifePlus, but not the TDK by TY.
- I found 2 of drives are iHAS124B that I had most likely used for Xbox 360 backups.
- Also a Sony Optiarc AD07260S that I had written the word "bitsetting" on it, don't remember what it was for.
- An unbranded SH-224DB made by joint venture of Toshiba and Samsung
- LG branded GH24NB0 and WH10LS30 made by LG and Hitachi.
Ok, I found my box of blank disc media. Mainly different brands of BD-R, DVD-R, DVD+R, and some CD-RW. But I did find a spindle of the Sony CD-R 700MB.
So I don't have the original label on the spindle. By looking at the photos on multiple eBay listings, they were made all over the places including Taiwan, India, Malaysia, and etc.
Here are the photo of the front
and back
of the disc.
The following is the ImgBurn disc info.
ATIP Information:
Disc ID: 97m24s16f
Manufacturer: Sony Corp.
Start Time of LeadIn: 97m24s16f
Last Possible Start Time of LeadOut: 79m59s74f
Once again like the TDK by TY, I am surprise that these Sony CD-Rs being made by Sony themselves. So were these made in Japan? No idea.
Because I still have about 75 of these left, I burned copy of Wipeout 3(NTSC-U) at the min(16x) and max(48x) on one of my iHAS124b.
Testing on my region free modded SCPH-5500, the16x had around 1 to 4 stutters on the opening FMV, while the 48x didn't have any issue through out the multiple tests through out the day. Using the game's built-in audio tester, I was able to play all of the in game music CD tracks on both burned discs. No issue on playing the game itself on both either.
The result disc quality test for the 16x
and 48x
. While both had 0 C2 error, the 48x has less C1 error compare to the 16x. Confirming the actual PS1 test that it's better to burn at a higher speed for these Sony CD-Rs. I'm really tempted with burning one of these on my crappy GTA0N at 48x and see what the result is like.
So I don't have the original label on the spindle. By looking at the photos on multiple eBay listings, they were made all over the places including Taiwan, India, Malaysia, and etc.Here are the photo of the front
and back of the disc.The following is the ImgBurn disc info.
ATIP Information:
Disc ID: 97m24s16f
Manufacturer: Sony Corp.
Start Time of LeadIn: 97m24s16f
Last Possible Start Time of LeadOut: 79m59s74f
Once again like the TDK by TY, I am surprise that these Sony CD-Rs being made by Sony themselves. So were these made in Japan? No idea.
Because I still have about 75 of these left, I burned copy of Wipeout 3(NTSC-U) at the min(16x) and max(48x) on one of my iHAS124b.
Testing on my region free modded SCPH-5500, the16x had around 1 to 4 stutters on the opening FMV, while the 48x didn't have any issue through out the multiple tests through out the day. Using the game's built-in audio tester, I was able to play all of the in game music CD tracks on both burned discs. No issue on playing the game itself on both either.
The result disc quality test for the 16x
and 48x. While both had 0 C2 error, the 48x has less C1 error compare to the 16x. Confirming the actual PS1 test that it's better to burn at a higher speed for these Sony CD-Rs. I'm really tempted with burning one of these on my crappy GTA0N at 48x and see what the result is like.
Last edited by xraymind,
Set booktype of DVD+R to DVD-ROM. Increases compatibility with old devices. Required for Wii backup DVD+R when using software methods (no modchip).
C2 errors should happen rarely. A disc showing many of those is close to it's end of life. Worth noting that a single E31 can result in a whole bunch of C2 (E22) at this specific point. First layer of error correction is unable to restore the data resulting in a huge amount of failures to correct at second stage.
On a freshly burned CD-R this should not exist. I've seen it happen when imperfections (visible using magnifier "bubble") on the disc. Such a thing will lead to early E32 (uncorrectable) error when the disc ages. This is still *not* data loss for "Mode 1" or "Mode 2 Form 1" as the third stage of EDC/ECC in user accessible data provides additional redundancy for this case.
CD-DA is not the best test method. This is reading at lowest possible speed and masking any existing small errors with interpolation. Unless you have outstanding hearing and outstanding speakers (and probably an older PS1 model modded to provide crystal clear sound from the dedicated connectors) there is no way to say if the music is reproduced flawlessly.
I personally are able to hear only heavy and bad interpolation when concentrating and knowing the exact sound of some song. Most people don't notice any form of interpolation and don't even know CD players can do it.
For obvious skipping in CD-DA to occur the disc and/or drive must be complete
.Never had a Wii, so I think I got the Sony Optiarc for my Xbox 360. Later switch over to the Lite-On iHAS124b for their burnermax compatibility. I remember flashing the firmware on my Xbox 360's DVD drive.
Good to know about the C2 errors. My friend found 4 imation 74min CD-Rs, 2 still in shrink wrap
and 2 already been burned. My iHAS124b can't even read the 2 burned discs and on one them, you can even see through the other side of the disc
.That's another good piece of info to know about. Ok, I found out that there is a unlock code for Warhawk so you can watch all of the FMVs for the game, so I will switch over to it for the rest of my test burns.CD-DA is not the best test method. This is reading at lowest possible speed and masking any existing small errors with interpolation. Unless you have outstanding hearing and outstanding speakers (and probably an older PS1 model modded to provide crystal clear sound from the dedicated connectors) there is no way to say if the music is reproduced flawlessly.
I personally are able to hear only heavy and bad interpolation when concentrating and knowing the exact sound of some song. Most people don't notice any form of interpolation and don't even know CD players can do it.
For obvious skipping in CD-DA to occur the disc and/or drive must be complete
This is key on good quality disc burning, the slower the best.
I had an old (and I mean really old) CD-R 2x speed disk burning drive and it worked wonders back then using Verbatim CD-R disks (also 2x-4x speed supported). Can't remember which software I used on my Windows XP PC, but it was awesome (it isn't available any more).
CDs are semi-transparent when no opaque label is present. Even PS1 discs are somewhat transparent (Platinum series without colorful label).
However, there are some bright dots on your picture that look like missing layers (reflector, data, lacquer). I've marked a few positions that look questionable.
Even the unused ones might be bad. I've seen bad CD-R literally losing flakes of the upper layers after trying to burn them.
This is not applicable to all drives (although back in the day probably held true). Some drives have a stronger EMF signal/better write strategy in firmware for speeds higher then the minimum supported: https://alex-free.github.io/psx-cdr/#burn-speed
Post automatically merged:
Set booktype of DVD+R to DVD-ROM. Increases compatibility with old devices. Required for Wii backup DVD+R when using software methods (no modchip).
C2 errors should happen rarely. A disc showing many of those is close to it's end of life. Worth noting that a single E31 can result in a whole bunch of C2 (E22) at this specific point. First layer of error correction is unable to restore the data resulting in a huge amount of failures to correct at second stage.
On a freshly burned CD-R this should not exist. I've seen it happen when imperfections (visible using magnifier "bubble") on the disc. Such a thing will lead to early E32 (uncorrectable) error when the disc ages. This is still *not* data loss for "Mode 1" or "Mode 2 Form 1" as the third stage of EDC/ECC in user accessible data provides additional redundancy for this case.
CD-DA is not the best test method. This is reading at lowest possible speed and masking any existing small errors with interpolation. Unless you have outstanding hearing and outstanding speakers (and probably an older PS1 model modded to provide crystal clear sound from the dedicated connectors) there is no way to say if the music is reproduced flawlessly.
I personally are able to hear only heavy and bad interpolation when concentrating and knowing the exact sound of some song. Most people don't notice any form of interpolation and don't even know CD players can do it.
For obvious skipping in CD-DA to occur the disc and/or drive must be complete
This is so great! We are all collectively scientifically fixing the PSX CD-R debacle from years of online misinformation one test at a time. I am happy the guide has helped you, and that you also found a cheap Plextor PX-708A. Best drive I've come across, using the same CMC Pro discs as you. Any Taiyo Yuden 74 minutes should also be spectacular.
I think the next step is recommending burn speed combinations with specific CD-R media and burners to others in the guide.
I also want to investigate how we can show the C1 error rate/EMF signal output in the guide.
Besides that, I've updated a ton in the guide. Including more CD burners, info about ripping/burning with specific software, info on LibCrypt and EDC/EEC protection in regards to burning, console model CD servo differences, and some other things I've forgotten
Last edited by alexfree,
Quick update on those 74 minute TY's that I got, they're working incredibly well! Interestingly, the atip data from them is extremely similar to the TY That's CD-R CDR-74ZY:
Here's a couple of photos of it, it's a "shiny silver disc" so it's not inkjet printable, which may be a downside of these for some people:
And here's the error data, and while I don't expect any known good disc to fail this, it's cool to see either way. This is actually the lowest error rate I've ever seen on a disc, it even beats out my best pressed CDs! Only 29 C1 errors across the entire disc is absolutely nuts to me
Sadly, I had less luck with that PX-708A I bought, couldn't get it to read CD media at all, only DVD's
I did manage to grab a cheap NEC ND-3500A though which I have high hopes for, and I actually just ended up getting another PX-708A, so hopefully I'll have better luck with that one.
The iHAS124 is still working great for me though, and I honestly think it could be one of the top recommendations for people who just want a simple way to get good burns. It has SATA (for easy connections to modern PCs), it burns very well producing very low error counts at its lowest speed of 8x (which is a nice speed in general imo, mine clocks in at about 9 minutes per disc), and it's cheap and easy to find, at least over here in the UK.
I've also been discussing this on a discord server, and someone suggested measuring the test points on the PS1 to see how close different CD-R's get to a real disc, and I think that would be a good idea to check out. I'm especially interested in seeing how they show up on the RF eye pattern, since I think that would give us a lot of good info on things like reflectiveness.
I also wonder if different burners would produce different eye patterns, and maybe this could help validate if certain newer drives (like the iHAS124) are actually good for burns or not and how they compare to known good IDE drives like the Plextors.
One last thing, I've ran a quick load time test between the 80 min CMC pro TY's, these 74 minute CMC pro TY's, and an original disc. I don't think I can send the videos here, but I tested PAL Time Crisis (not the best game to test with since it just boots to a language selection screen, but it's my least scratched PS1 disc), and interestingly the 74 minute TY actually beat out the original (just barely though)! The 80 minute and original were basically tied.
I also tested Symphony of the Night, and the 74 min disc beats out the 80 min disc by almost two seconds! 1.834 seconds to be precise. I also want to say that the load times between scenes ingame were noticeably shorter with the 74 min.
ATIP info from disk:
Indicated writing power: 4
Disk Is not unrestricted
Disk Is not erasable
Disk sub type: Medium Type A, high Beta category (A+) (3)
ATIP start of lead in: -11849 (97:24/01)
ATIP start of lead out: 336077 (74:43/02)
Disk type: Long strategy type (Cyanine, AZO or similar)
Manuf. index: 25
Manufacturer: Taiyo Yuden Company LimitedHere's a couple of photos of it, it's a "shiny silver disc" so it's not inkjet printable, which may be a downside of these for some people:
And here's the error data, and while I don't expect any known good disc to fail this, it's cool to see either way. This is actually the lowest error rate I've ever seen on a disc, it even beats out my best pressed CDs! Only 29 C1 errors across the entire disc is absolutely nuts to me
Sadly, I had less luck with that PX-708A I bought, couldn't get it to read CD media at all, only DVD's
I did manage to grab a cheap NEC ND-3500A though which I have high hopes for, and I actually just ended up getting another PX-708A, so hopefully I'll have better luck with that one.
The iHAS124 is still working great for me though, and I honestly think it could be one of the top recommendations for people who just want a simple way to get good burns. It has SATA (for easy connections to modern PCs), it burns very well producing very low error counts at its lowest speed of 8x (which is a nice speed in general imo, mine clocks in at about 9 minutes per disc), and it's cheap and easy to find, at least over here in the UK.
I've also been discussing this on a discord server, and someone suggested measuring the test points on the PS1 to see how close different CD-R's get to a real disc, and I think that would be a good idea to check out. I'm especially interested in seeing how they show up on the RF eye pattern, since I think that would give us a lot of good info on things like reflectiveness.
I also wonder if different burners would produce different eye patterns, and maybe this could help validate if certain newer drives (like the iHAS124) are actually good for burns or not and how they compare to known good IDE drives like the Plextors.
One last thing, I've ran a quick load time test between the 80 min CMC pro TY's, these 74 minute CMC pro TY's, and an original disc. I don't think I can send the videos here, but I tested PAL Time Crisis (not the best game to test with since it just boots to a language selection screen, but it's my least scratched PS1 disc), and interestingly the 74 minute TY actually beat out the original (just barely though)! The 80 minute and original were basically tied.
I also tested Symphony of the Night, and the 74 min disc beats out the 80 min disc by almost two seconds! 1.834 seconds to be precise. I also want to say that the load times between scenes ingame were noticeably shorter with the 74 min.
Nice load time tests, I'm going to get around to a full CDROM debugger benchmark homebrew soon.Quick update on those 74 minute TY's that I got, they're working incredibly well! Interestingly, the atip data from them is extremely similar to the TY That's CD-R CDR-74ZY:
ATIP info from disk: Indicated writing power: 4 Disk Is not unrestricted Disk Is not erasable Disk sub type: Medium Type A, high Beta category (A+) (3) ATIP start of lead in: -11849 (97:24/01) ATIP start of lead out: 336077 (74:43/02) Disk type: Long strategy type (Cyanine, AZO or similar) Manuf. index: 25 Manufacturer: Taiyo Yuden Company Limited
Here's a couple of photos of it, it's a "shiny silver disc" so it's not inkjet printable, which may be a downside of these for some people:
View attachment 433227View attachment 433226
And here's the error data, and while I don't expect any known good disc to fail this, it's cool to see either way. This is actually the lowest error rate I've ever seen on a disc, it even beats out my best pressed CDs! Only 29 C1 errors across the entire disc is absolutely nuts to me
View attachment 433139
Sadly, I had less luck with that PX-708A I bought, couldn't get it to read CD media at all, only DVD's
I did manage to grab a cheap NEC ND-3500A though which I have high hopes for, and I actually just ended up getting another PX-708A, so hopefully I'll have better luck with that one.
The iHAS124 is still working great for me though, and I honestly think it could be one of the top recommendations for people who just want a simple way to get good burns. It has SATA (for easy connections to modern PCs), it burns very well producing very low error counts at its lowest speed of 8x (which is a nice speed in general imo, mine clocks in at about 9 minutes per disc), and it's cheap and easy to find, at least over here in the UK.
I've also been discussing this on a discord server, and someone suggested measuring the test points on the PS1 to see how close different CD-R's get to a real disc, and I think that would be a good idea to check out. I'm especially interested in seeing how they show up on the RF eye pattern, since I think that would give us a lot of good info on things like reflectiveness.
I also wonder if different burners would produce different eye patterns, and maybe this could help validate if certain newer drives (like the iHAS124) are actually good for burns or not and how they compare to known good IDE drives like the Plextors.
One last thing, I've ran a quick load time test between the 80 min CMC pro TY's, these 74 minute CMC pro TY's, and an original disc. I don't think I can send the videos here, but I tested PAL Time Crisis (not the best game to test with since it just boots to a language selection screen, but it's my least scratched PS1 disc), and interestingly the 74 minute TY actually beat out the original (just barely though)! The 80 minute and original were basically tied.
I also tested Symphony of the Night, and the 74 min disc beats out the 80 min disc by almost two seconds! 1.834 seconds to be precise. I also want to say that the load times between scenes ingame were noticeably shorter with the 74 min.
Is there a brand name for those TY discs? They actually do have the same ATIP as the TY That's CD-R CDR-74ZY. And those have almost the same ATIP as the actual Sony 71PS Master Discs. These I'd imagine are cheaper then both, even the That's CD-Rs are pricey and rare.
The IHAS drive was added to the guide, it's a great find!
Mine were listed as "JVC Taiyo Yuden CMC Shiny Silver Blank CD-R CD 48x 74min 700MB Discs", but I've seen them listed as "CMC Pro/TY CD-R Shiny Silver Silver Prism Black" discs too. The first listing was a bit confusing, since obviously a 74 minute disc would be 650MB, but they did end up being true 74 minute discs.
They are indeed a lot cheaper than the That's CD-R's, I managed to grab a stack of 100 for ~£30 shipped, and I've seen 100 listed for £10 too (although that seemed a bit too good to be true for me).
Looks like this has the same ATIP data(a tiny different in the lead out) for the TDK 74min that I had posted earlier.
ATIP info from disk:
Indicated writing power: 4
Disk Is not unrestricted
Disk Is not erasable
Disk sub type: Medium Type A, high Beta category (A+) (3)
ATIP start of lead in: -11849 (97:24/01)
ATIP start of lead out: 336075 (74:43/00)
Disk type: Long strategy type (Cyanine, AZO or similar)
Manuf. index: 25
Manufacturer: Taiyo Yuden Company Limited
That's actually identical to https://alex-free.github.io/psx-cdr/#taiyo-yuden-thats-cd-r-cdr-74zy-74-minutes . The JVC Taiyo Yuden CMC Shiny Silver Blank CD-R CD 48x 74min actually differ a bit in lead out, not the other way around. I want to add both these to the guide as 'tier 1' CD-Rs (I'm trying to group them for clarity on quality, and it seems this ATIP info works best for the PSX). Any more info on a brandname for your TDK 74 minute CD-Rs? Pics would be enough if it's not available. Thanks!
Why there isn't any program for the PS1 (and PS2) to just simply read every file from the CD (or DVD) and eventually show the transfer speed, so it will be easier to know how readable a disc is for the console, before playing the game?
I think seek time/read should be the benchmark, I promise to stop putting off the homebrew
As I mention in the earlier post, these TDK Taiyo Yuden were in a spindle with no label. The pattern on the top of disc looks almost the same as the ones made by Raitek that you have showing in your guide.
I did find an eBay listing for the TDK with the spindle label
with the text "CD-R 650MB 74min" in large print on the right side of the disc
, so I contacted the seller and got a reply that it was made in Taiwan
. While the TDK Taiyo Yuden has the text "74min 650MB CD-R" in tiny print on the top right edge of the disc.
So for now, I'm assuming that LARGE print was made in Taiwan by Raitek(or CMC) and tiny print was made in Japan by Taiyo Yuden.
BTW, I got a working ZIPCDUSB per your recommendation from eBay for around $20
. I will try to burn some lower quality discs with it before moving on to DataLifePlus by CMC then to the TDK by TY.
My bet is some older TDKs are made in japan (and share this ATIP info from TY): see
https://www.ebay.com/itm/196077270515?itmmeta=01HWC7ZSMC20WQ7195TRY65PE4&hash=item2da71db5f3:g:IKoAAOSwuUNlUN-h&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA4AYhL2o/9Qgrytk+g38mPbvMczabic8ppmh6ZZqEdV7UL3ebFvvehSKhccBC8zCtTxEcMiUlw8lJGzRYiV2qhPPf4K7l/98m0cboLwPN9nvjuovVyLY4Rf2YCbygIewC6Oz7jjf1jd9CDeMtKKSpFGME/c9AZ4JX14CZBqhhpg+2HQDen7GPZ+trfbPDPKQoIz/RD/MVb5rgSd8HRHvibUzX/JVpHwErlUKagdMuZ5IcAhiuxP1tY791LR0U6g2VaeXl1/QCEcFHn0dNR7wZL0rKoLA0KDfHY3OQC5g/jwq9|tkp:Bk9SR7Ka_4fjYw
but then
https://www.ebay.com/itm/265701240344?epid=97086001&itmmeta=01HWC7ZSMC02RD8M2VK5WZN31T&hash=item3ddd072e18:g:Q-IAAOSwptVlV8wd&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA4K2Sm/vfOvmAmudhCYv5efVMkJOtF1x/+5v2BKTtwlg8kCWrf0xQrRPRs8VUH7qdsEA51f2f24QhpsZd2dX/FQurQprbNB2mUe7O9ESKJMx+AHJuexXnavh/I2ZD+zatd9tAAu7th4NcbFf9QZMD0CmFOMbnrt+l4NJKLVWPx2TxaqgxYOJGJbj44zEMSyGFdJpNJ/TiYG7+8eWIC6yeNBC+0kMG0z2mvwish5gOAqn4nCWmIdsf1O5UNe3jeugbcSmPIz1Y5S2Mv+8JiWIxaYvw9PmvleE214SeV4JNtUYH|tkp:Bk9SR7Ca_4fjYw
and
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144632691533?itmmeta=01HWC7ZSM9B644WM2TZTB1BAFA&hash=item21acc7bb4d:g:8ncAAOSwWL5iwa2P&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAAwAVLE27mcG0U2RtJ80PO28WchiJDUzKgdDPBiWM8s5Bo9qnE0aPjHRafXF8sPC3zk8Vrb4paCH0ocJz0gCOLrZKpt7VsQ3ITWLSzdZdR0v4/tk7GdyweYtSW+0yV7DH3+dHEfNzBN5NP/4CtExX/TMXF/TXaWnXtPR0/lLfml4Rt99ZTJGgi/QZWFiDCB+RCF838W4/QKgQs0rivNQiiYKQIIBMfnQAKt+F5Y4EsMK7Je1tViA7uvnNMU4KxRjqWpg==|tkp:Bk9SR6ia_4fjYw
so if the box says 'made in japan' then probably you have this ATIP info that you have, or it's at least made by TY.
Hmm, maybe I never mentioned it here but I had some _issues_ with that drive not being complaint with the mmc standard and it had some strange issues with some burning software and burns were not seemingly 1:1 with the actual disc image due to buggy firmware or something. I took it off the guide when I discovered them. Sorry for not mentioning that sooner.
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Interesting:
https://cdmediaworld.com/hardware/cdrom/cd_tdk_iq.shtml
Also
https://cdmediaworld.com/hardware/cdrom/cd_quality.shtml
I can kinda agree I had a ton of duds in the tdk riteks, but the ones that worked did work well. Might want to take those off the guide.
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And here we are ladies and gentlemen, cyanine type 0 is the best dye for PSX ! I want to check out this tool they keep mentioning:
CDRid seems promising. Cdrecord never really gave a specific dye… Much to update in the guide. Also I bet that Yamaha CRW4260 drive is pretty sweet.
Last edited by alexfree,
