[TUTORIAL] [MOD] RCM mode with just a magnet (maghax). No visible changes to the Switch or Joycon!!! v1.7 2018-06-28

Please post any improvements or clarifications you'd like to see. If this passes muster, Mods can move it to the tutorials forum if appropriate.

Spoiler: changelog

v1.0
- beta tutorial
v1.1
- added some more text, and links to joycon teardowns
v1.2
- added reed dimensions
- added info about side affects and charging (there are no side effects)
v1.3
- added details on magnets
v1.4
- added more purchase options for magnetic reed switch
v1.5
- added link to https://gbatemp.net/threads/f-g-joycon-mod-magnethax-switch-edition.502459/ for credit to an older magnetic switch thread and instructions
v1.6
- added advise to disconnect battery before starting soldering.
v1.7
- added a user experience link at the bottom describing some more details.

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This should be a pretty solid method for installing a MAGNETIC REED RELAY into your Right Joycon. the purpose is to have a cosmetically PERFECT Switch, with the ability to launch RCM with almost no effort. You just need to have a strong magnet to hold near the bottom right corner of the right joycon while you press power and volume + when booting. There are no known side affects of this method. i.e. you can still charge, use the joycon or switch normally. It's essentially stock when there is no magnet nearby and should last forever with no risk (after installation). I'd not send it in for warranty repair with the reed switch installed though . This is a MUCH better option than a jig if you don't mind some soldering

The tutorial requires MODEST disassembly and soldering skill.

I'm not saying my approach and tutorial is any better than what other's have done (and posted). They certainly deserve credit. However, this is what I did and I think it's the best approach. I had previously posted a PSA about "why jigs are a bad idea" as I don't agree with them generally. So here is an explanation (for the reasonably skilled solderer) to do a magnetic reed switch the way I did it.

Note that much of the tutorial text is IN the spoilers with the pictures. Don't miss it. It is always at the top above the picture. I elected to keep this pretty visual rather than text, but happy to add more if people want more detail.

It is advisable to disconnect the joycon battery before starting to solder. I didn't disconnect the battery when I did the mod. So there isn't a picture of it.

Spoiler: Tools to get started

I didn't include info on how to open the case beyond showing the triwing screwdriver. There are better tutorials on opening the joycon VIDEO and TEXT

Spoiler: Reed switch used

The reed switch can be bought from digikey for about $0.50 each. Shipping via USPS first class mail runs about $3 for under 8oz. The reed switch is 1.8mm by 10mm (body of the switch). HERE is an option from Amazon that is bigger (2mm x 14mm)

Spoiler: Wire lengths

Note, I used 6cm wires. I wish I had cut them to about 3cm. You will see later they were a little too long. Also, I didn't take a picture of it, but I generally use the soldering iron to melt off 1mm of the wire end for soldering. I don't usually use wire strippers on Kynar insulated solid 30AWG wire. Note this is also called "wire wrap wire" in many circles.

Spoiler: Bent reed switch

This is one of the main items different from what most people have done. This approach takes less space and allows the wires to exit the reed switch from the same side toward the connector. BE CAREFUL!!! It's VERY easy to break the glass on the reed switch when bending the leads. I broke two, though they were not ruined, I didn't want them chipped. Use some tweezers or needle nose pliers to bend it about 1mm beyond the end of the glass.

Spoiler: Added wires to reed switch

Spoiler: Visual length of heat shrink

The goal here is to use enough heat shrink to cover the exposed leads and solder, but little enough that it doesn't interfere with placement. I went about 1/8" beyond the electrical connections on each end of the device.

Spoiler: Shrunk reed switch

Sorry I didn't get a better picture here!! It will give you the idea however.

Spoiler: Remove the foam

Be careful with the foam. It actually serves a purpose protecting the other side of the flex cable from abrasion against the soldered pins.

Spoiler: Solder Points

Here are pins 1 and 10 that you want to solder to. Be VERY careful. This is a tight soldering job and you don't want to mess up. You can still back out at this point if you aren't comfortable.

Spoiler: Soldered in

Spoiler: Reed switch put in place in the casing

I think this is the best place to put it. The Joycon is pretty tight once assembled but there is ample room above the PCB and wire routing location where I have stuck it here.

Spoiler: REPLACE THE FOAM

If it isn't obvious, the way you know you did it right are with the below two tests, with and without magnet, and what you should see on the screen. Speaking of Magnets: I'd consider using a 1/4" or larger rare earth or "neodymium magnet" They come in different grades N35 N42 N50 etc. The higher the number the stronger. Any of them should work. The dark brown or black "ceramic" magnets work but they are not as strong so you might consider a larger size (maybe 1/2"??). Ebay has tons of them, Harbor Freight has rare earth magnets and magnetic grabber tools. Buymagnets.com is also an option but shipping might kill it.

Spoiler: Demo no magnet

Spoiler: Demo Magnet

Here is a nice discussion of specific wire lengths and soldering technique as well as a way to use the kickstand to store the magnet [Post 84]

 

[gallymimu]

First time posting.
Long story short: I did this mod and now my joycon is not detected when it's attached, and won't charge, although it boots into rcm when a magnet is present.
I've desoldered the reed switch and then noticed that some of the pins under the joycon rail are bent inwards. Have no idea how that could've happened TBH, but I figured they are the problem and now I need a way to bend them back out.
Any ideas how I can do that?
Thanks.

View attachment 148117

That's a real bummer.

I'd use a needle to try and bend them back one by one. Good luck. Alternately you can buy a new rail off ebay.

 

[Chekeleke]

I Would like to know if there is any video tutorial Thanks I just got the reed switch but i am confused on the soldering part

 

[gallymimu]

I Would like to know if there is any video tutorial Thanks I just got the reed switch but i am confused on the soldering part

Nope, no video tutorial. What are you confused about? Ask a question!

 

[Kofus]

Hi, i am wondering if a neodymium magnet from an old hard drive disk would work or could damage my console?

 

[gallymimu]

Hi, i am wondering if a neodymium magnet from an old hard drive disk would work or could damage my console?

It will be fine. There is nothing to damage in modern electronics... unless the electronics have magnetic media.

 

[Ill_Master]

Heya gallymimu,

Just performed your mod and it is brilliant!!! This use of a mag reed switch is so damned good. I have been planning to perform a mod for Atmosphere now that I've got a mini on the way, and out of sheer luck I managed to get to this thread from another here that describes a SPST physical switch, cutting the case, etc. I'm SO happy I made it here, you did a phenomenal job setting up the tut, it is so complete and really appreciated. The wire type, the digikey link, etc were great. And kudos to all the others who helped out by performing the mod and adding to the tutorial.

To add my $0.02, to measure the wire and make soldering much easier, I initially cut 6 or so cm lengths, cut the wires on the switch appropriately and soldered them on. After shrink-wrapping, I then used a bit of double sided 3m tape to LIGHTLY tape the completed switch in place. From there, I pushed the wires into place and cut them to reach the solder points 1 and 10 with enough extra to tin. Took the reed switch off the tape, tinned the ends, then pushed the switch back onto the tape firmly for its final mount. From there it was simple to bend and place the wires to reach the pins exactly as they are now perfectly cut to length, and they sort of held themselves in place making it VERY easy to solder them accurately.

Amongst other things I perform magic, so using a magicians magnetic ring, the switch is in the perfect place to activate it. Once booted I take the ring off! Flawless.

This works so good, thanks again for this tut, it's perfect.

IM