Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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PaulP

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Is it normal for Windows not to detect the Switch. I did the 7 wire method w/ USB Strap on Trinket M0. Did I loose Windows USB functionality with the Switch because the Trinket is connected to USB internally and Windows is actually connecting to the Trinket and not the Switch? I can re-flash the Trinket with USB by pressing the reset button twice, but the Switch is not detected at all. In Windows I get USB Device not recognized. How can I use Goldleaf with USB and PC? Thanks.
 

DfknG

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Does anyone know how to put the RCM-X86 into service mode so that I can update the bootloader on it? I cant find any documentation on it :S
 

PaulP

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Does anyone know how to put the RCM-X86 into service mode so that I can update the bootloader on it? I cant find any documentation on it :S

Im using Trinket M0. I get it in service mode by putting the Switch in sleep mode with the USB Cable plugged in. Then pressing the reset button 2 or three times on the trinket. I get a green light on the trinket and a boot window pops up.
 

PaulP

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Is it normal for Windows not to detect the Switch. I did the 7 wire method w/ USB Strap on Trinket M0. Did I loose Windows USB functionality with the Switch because the Trinket is connected to USB internally and Windows is actually connecting to the Trinket and not the Switch? I can re-flash the Trinket with USB by pressing the reset button twice, but the Switch is not detected at all. In Windows I get USB Device not recognized. How can I use Goldleaf with USB and PC? Thanks.

Never mind. I figured it out. The 32AWG Magnet Wire I used for the USB was too long. Made it as short as possible and its working perfectly.
 

lokiuox

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Guys, I think I messed up...
I was trying to install the RCMx86, everything went smoothly (or so I think), but now the Switch won't turn on at all, no icon, no charging, nothing...
One thing that happened is that initially I inverted the D- and D+ wires (connected D- from the switch to D+ on the chip) and Vol+ and Joycon strap (Vol+ to joycon and joycon to vol+); I know, it was a really stupid mistake, I confused the wire colors.
Anyway, after that, I rewired the chip correctly, tried to power but still nothing, so I completely removed the chip and the wires, reassembled the Switch, but it's still dead.
This is the wiring I made: (I attached 3v to the NAND contact, the one under the small detachable board)
Switch_Frontside_new.jpg
Switch_Backside_new.jpg
Also, I know that to check if a chip is bad, it's useful to check if there are capacitors shorted to ground, and I've found something but I don't know if what I've found should be shorted to ground and I don't know if those are all capacitors in the first place. (With shorted to ground I mean that both sides shows continuity to gnd)
Anyway, these are the "shorted capacitors":
Front:
fronte.jpg
Back:
retro.jpg
I noticed the few in back, those in the center, are right behind what I think is the main processor, and are all connected to the same trace. PLEASE please tell me that I didn't completely fry this switch and I can recover it. I'm desperate right now. Thanks to everyone willing to help a poor soul.
EDIT: Solved. I left it rest overnight and the problem went away doing nothing at all.
5HBTWg3
 
Last edited by lokiuox,

Modzvilleusa

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Hey guys so managed to royally screw up on the Vol+ strap. The resistor broke and these 3 pads have been ripped (highlighted in red) I see that can use a 150ohm resistor as a replacement, will the pads ripped though where can I solder the resistor too? If you can highlight in paint the two points that I can solder the resistor to in order to get my Vol + button working, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------
 

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Modzvilleusa

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Hey guys so managed to royally screw up on the Vol+ strap. The resistor broke and these 3 pads have been ripped (highlighted in red) I see that can use a 150ohm resistor as a replacement, will the pads ripped though where can I solder the resistor too? If you can highlight in paint the two points that I can solder the resistor to in order to get my Vol + button working, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Alright I managed to get it sorted but it's less than ideal.
I eye balled the trace and took a leap of faith by adding a jumper wire from the ribbon connector to another resistor. I've attached a picture as to how I wired it up. Hopefully this manages to help someone down the line who manages to botch the vol+ strap as well as the pads. I don't plan on willingly soldering to any switch resistors or caps down the line due to how fragile they are. I'd recommend anyone else doing one of these for the first time to use an alt for 3.3v and either ignore the vol+ strap or use an alt if you really want it. Gently wiggling my 30awg wire caused the leg of the resistor to snap. If you really want to go for it, solder to the trinket first, route your wire, use flush cuts and tweasers, assure a good connection your eyes and FOR GODS SAKE WIGGLE THAT MOTHER FUCKER!
 

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lokiuox

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Hey @mattytrog , I bought an RCMx86 from China, it came preflashed with Switchboot 1.4.3, however I think it's the Trinket M0 version, since that's what shows up in the "About" section in Switchboot. Also, it says that USB, Vol+ and Joycon straps are not connected, when in fact they are, I also checked the wires with a multimeter and all the connections are fine. The result of this is that chipRCM don't work, but if I make the switch enter RCM manually, it senses RCM mode and injects the payload just fine (like 4 wires mode).
I tried reflasing it using the SAMD21Update mode, but the PC won't recognize the device, saying that it cannot get the device descriptor. Tried with different PCs both on Windows and Linux, same thing. Do I need to flash it using OpenOCD?
 

xHR

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Hey @mattytrog , I bought an RCMx86 from China, it came preflashed with Switchboot 1.4.3, however I think it's the Trinket M0 version, since that's what shows up in the "About" section in Switchboot. Also, it says that USB, Vol+ and Joycon straps are not connected, when in fact they are, I also checked the wires with a multimeter and all the connections are fine. The result of this is that chipRCM don't work, but if I make the switch enter RCM manually, it senses RCM mode and injects the payload just fine (like 4 wires mode).
I tried reflasing it using the SAMD21Update mode, but the PC won't recognize the device, saying that it cannot get the device descriptor. Tried with different PCs both on Windows and Linux, same thing. Do I need to flash it using OpenOCD?
Is your chip is black? Could you make a photo?
 

mattytrog

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Hey @mattytrog , I bought an RCMx86 from China, it came preflashed with Switchboot 1.4.3, however I think it's the Trinket M0 version, since that's what shows up in the "About" section in Switchboot. Also, it says that USB, Vol+ and Joycon straps are not connected, when in fact they are, I also checked the wires with a multimeter and all the connections are fine. The result of this is that chipRCM don't work, but if I make the switch enter RCM manually, it senses RCM mode and injects the payload just fine (like 4 wires mode).
I tried reflasing it using the SAMD21Update mode, but the PC won't recognize the device, saying that it cannot get the device descriptor. Tried with different PCs both on Windows and Linux, same thing. Do I need to flash it using OpenOCD?
No sir it should work fine.

The immediate problem is which straps you have connected and to what.

Are they assuming the RCMX86 pin layout? Or rebug? Or Trinket? This matters.

Is there a USB logic IC connected? Any chance of seeing a picture of the board? I`ll then be able to guide you.
 

lokiuox

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No sir it should work fine.

The immediate problem is which straps you have connected and to what.

Are they assuming the RCMX86 pin layout? Or rebug? Or Trinket? This matters.

Is there a USB logic IC connected? Any chance of seeing a picture of the board? I`ll then be able to guide you.
This is the chip, image taken from the internet but it's identical:
chip_VB.jpg
I connected all the straps following the wiring diagram for the RCMx86 in this thread:
- Led Anode to D0
- Vol+ to D1, (test point from back side of the motherboard)
- Joycon to D2, (test point from back side of the motherboard)
- USB Disconnect to D4, (from the front side near the battery connector)
- Obviously D+ and D- to USB, (from the front side test points)
It's strange that the PC throws that error when I put the board in update mode, if there was a wiring problem the payload injection wouldn't have worked either
 
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xHR

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Yep, it's black. Photo from internet:
View attachment 194789
upload_2020-1-31_23-16-59.png

Try this way
There would be an issue with turning off - after you turned Ur console off, chip going to UF2 mod, but no battery drain, as I can see. 15 second of power off button and you can start console as well

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

6hey @mattytrog, when soldering joycon & vol+ i boot automatically in cfw. how do i boot regular in ofw?
hekate =- stock
 

lokiuox

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View attachment 194937
Try this way
There would be an issue with turning off - after you turned Ur console off, chip going to UF2 mod, but no battery drain, as I can see. 15 second of power off button and you can start console as well
I resorted to a workaround:
I soldered a bridge in the right joycon for the home button, left Vol+ disconnected (it's a dual boot setup, so I like it this way) and put the latest hekate bin as payload.bin in the root of the SD card, with hekate set to autoboot Atmosphere from emunand.
This way, powering on the console normally will start OFW and powering on while pressing Vol+ will boot me straight into emunand. Only downside is I need to have the right joycon connected, but that's not a big deal.

Also, it could be useful to someone, I found out that by shorting the joycon test point from the back of the motherboard to ground will make the right joycon appear as disconnected even when in the rail, while shorting the pins inside the joycon works just fine, joycon is fully recognized while plugged. I shorted pin 9 and 10 like in this photo from the web:
LqaDgXY.jpg
Switch firmware and Joycons firmware are both on latest version (updated them from the switch settings).
 

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Hey guys, dumb question from someone that did a dumb thing...

Am I able to program the trinket m0 after I install it if I haven't even loaded it before at all?

I took a new trinket and removed the USB without remembering to load the UF2 files.

@mattytrog ?
 

Shoogie

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Hey guys, dumb question from someone that did a dumb thing...

Am I able to program the trinket m0 after I install it if I haven't even loaded it before at all?

I took a new trinket and removed the USB without remembering to load the UF2 files.

@mattytrog ?

Yes, you can. After it's installed just inject the SAMD21 Update payload that's mentioned in the software thread and hit the reset button 2 times.
 
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