1. PaulP

    PaulP Newbie
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    Is it normal for Windows not to detect the Switch. I did the 7 wire method w/ USB Strap on Trinket M0. Did I loose Windows USB functionality with the Switch because the Trinket is connected to USB internally and Windows is actually connecting to the Trinket and not the Switch? I can re-flash the Trinket with USB by pressing the reset button twice, but the Switch is not detected at all. In Windows I get USB Device not recognized. How can I use Goldleaf with USB and PC? Thanks.
     
  2. DfknG

    DfknG Newbie
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    Does anyone know how to put the RCM-X86 into service mode so that I can update the bootloader on it? I cant find any documentation on it :S
     
  3. PaulP

    PaulP Newbie
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    Im using Trinket M0. I get it in service mode by putting the Switch in sleep mode with the USB Cable plugged in. Then pressing the reset button 2 or three times on the trinket. I get a green light on the trinket and a boot window pops up.
     
  4. PaulP

    PaulP Newbie
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    Never mind. I figured it out. The 32AWG Magnet Wire I used for the USB was too long. Made it as short as possible and its working perfectly.
     
  5. VelourFantasy

    VelourFantasy Newbie
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    Thank you!!
     
  6. lokiuox

    lokiuox Member
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    Guys, I think I messed up...
    I was trying to install the RCMx86, everything went smoothly (or so I think), but now the Switch won't turn on at all, no icon, no charging, nothing...
    One thing that happened is that initially I inverted the D- and D+ wires (connected D- from the switch to D+ on the chip) and Vol+ and Joycon strap (Vol+ to joycon and joycon to vol+); I know, it was a really stupid mistake, I confused the wire colors.
    Anyway, after that, I rewired the chip correctly, tried to power but still nothing, so I completely removed the chip and the wires, reassembled the Switch, but it's still dead.
    This is the wiring I made: (I attached 3v to the NAND contact, the one under the small detachable board)
    Switch_Frontside_new.jpg
    Switch_Backside_new.jpg
    Also, I know that to check if a chip is bad, it's useful to check if there are capacitors shorted to ground, and I've found something but I don't know if what I've found should be shorted to ground and I don't know if those are all capacitors in the first place. (With shorted to ground I mean that both sides shows continuity to gnd)
    Anyway, these are the "shorted capacitors":
    Front:
    fronte.jpg
    Back:
    retro.jpg
    I noticed the few in back, those in the center, are right behind what I think is the main processor, and are all connected to the same trace. PLEASE please tell me that I didn't completely fry this switch and I can recover it. I'm desperate right now. Thanks to everyone willing to help a poor soul.
    EDIT: Solved. I left it rest overnight and the problem went away doing nothing at all.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2020
  7. salitoshater

    salitoshater Newbie
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    Nevermind, please delete.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2020
  8. Modzvilleusa

    Modzvilleusa Member
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    Hey guys so managed to royally screw up on the Vol+ strap. The resistor broke and these 3 pads have been ripped (highlighted in red) I see that can use a 150ohm resistor as a replacement, will the pads ripped though where can I solder the resistor too? If you can highlight in paint the two points that I can solder the resistor to in order to get my Vol + button working, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

    — Posts automatically merged - Please don't double post! —
     

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  9. Modzvilleusa

    Modzvilleusa Member
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    Alright I managed to get it sorted but it's less than ideal.
    I eye balled the trace and took a leap of faith by adding a jumper wire from the ribbon connector to another resistor. I've attached a picture as to how I wired it up. Hopefully this manages to help someone down the line who manages to botch the vol+ strap as well as the pads. I don't plan on willingly soldering to any switch resistors or caps down the line due to how fragile they are. I'd recommend anyone else doing one of these for the first time to use an alt for 3.3v and either ignore the vol+ strap or use an alt if you really want it. Gently wiggling my 30awg wire caused the leg of the resistor to snap. If you really want to go for it, solder to the trinket first, route your wire, use flush cuts and tweasers, assure a good connection your eyes and FOR GODS SAKE WIGGLE THAT MOTHER FUCKER!
     

    Attached Files:

  10. lokiuox

    lokiuox Member
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    Hey @mattytrog , I bought an RCMx86 from China, it came preflashed with Switchboot 1.4.3, however I think it's the Trinket M0 version, since that's what shows up in the "About" section in Switchboot. Also, it says that USB, Vol+ and Joycon straps are not connected, when in fact they are, I also checked the wires with a multimeter and all the connections are fine. The result of this is that chipRCM don't work, but if I make the switch enter RCM manually, it senses RCM mode and injects the payload just fine (like 4 wires mode).
    I tried reflasing it using the SAMD21Update mode, but the PC won't recognize the device, saying that it cannot get the device descriptor. Tried with different PCs both on Windows and Linux, same thing. Do I need to flash it using OpenOCD?
     
  11. xHR

    xHR GBAtemp Regular
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    Is your chip is black? Could you make a photo?
     
  12. lokiuox

    lokiuox Member
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    Yep, it's black. Photo from internet:
    Hc4f40be2a1034138a18142b8cf3100c7F.jpg
     
  13. mattytrog

    OP mattytrog You don`t want to listen to anything I say.
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    No sir it should work fine.

    The immediate problem is which straps you have connected and to what.

    Are they assuming the RCMX86 pin layout? Or rebug? Or Trinket? This matters.

    Is there a USB logic IC connected? Any chance of seeing a picture of the board? I`ll then be able to guide you.
     
  14. lokiuox

    lokiuox Member
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    This is the chip, image taken from the internet but it's identical:
    chip_VB.jpg
    I connected all the straps following the wiring diagram for the RCMx86 in this thread:
    - Led Anode to D0
    - Vol+ to D1, (test point from back side of the motherboard)
    - Joycon to D2, (test point from back side of the motherboard)
    - USB Disconnect to D4, (from the front side near the battery connector)
    - Obviously D+ and D- to USB, (from the front side test points)
    It's strange that the PC throws that error when I put the board in update mode, if there was a wiring problem the payload injection wouldn't have worked either
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2020
  15. slinso

    slinso Member
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    6hey @mattytrog, when soldering joycon & vol+ i boot automatically in cfw. how do i boot regular in ofw?
     
  16. xHR

    xHR GBAtemp Regular
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    upload_2020-1-31_23-16-59.png
    Try this way
    There would be an issue with turning off - after you turned Ur console off, chip going to UF2 mod, but no battery drain, as I can see. 15 second of power off button and you can start console as well

    — Posts automatically merged - Please don't double post! —

    hekate =- stock
     
  17. lokiuox

    lokiuox Member
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    I resorted to a workaround:
    I soldered a bridge in the right joycon for the home button, left Vol+ disconnected (it's a dual boot setup, so I like it this way) and put the latest hekate bin as payload.bin in the root of the SD card, with hekate set to autoboot Atmosphere from emunand.
    This way, powering on the console normally will start OFW and powering on while pressing Vol+ will boot me straight into emunand. Only downside is I need to have the right joycon connected, but that's not a big deal.

    Also, it could be useful to someone, I found out that by shorting the joycon test point from the back of the motherboard to ground will make the right joycon appear as disconnected even when in the rail, while shorting the pins inside the joycon works just fine, joycon is fully recognized while plugged. I shorted pin 9 and 10 like in this photo from the web:
    LqaDgXY.jpg
    Switch firmware and Joycons firmware are both on latest version (updated them from the switch settings).
     
  18. JToro

    JToro Newbie
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    Hey guys, dumb question from someone that did a dumb thing...

    Am I able to program the trinket m0 after I install it if I haven't even loaded it before at all?

    I took a new trinket and removed the USB without remembering to load the UF2 files.

    @mattytrog ?
     
  19. Shoogie

    Shoogie Newbie
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    Yes, you can. After it's installed just inject the SAMD21 Update payload that's mentioned in the software thread and hit the reset button 2 times.
     
    JToro likes this.
  20. B3nnyb0y1990

    B3nnyb0y1990 Newbie
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    Put my glasses and had a little read and found the answer is already here. Thanks for the great work.
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2020
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