Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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mattytrog

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Wow! Thank you so much Matty, you’re an absolute legend!
So the charging chip was really gone then, that’s interesting. I saw a few shorts on places around the board but I didn’t think they were chip related. Oh well.

Thanks again so much!
No worries.

The BQ24193 seemed to be acting rather weird. I didn`t trust it.

Now there was no shield or card reader or SD reader supplied(I don`t think, unless it is hiding in the packaging). Would you like me to fit those?
 

plasticninjaguy

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No worries.

The BQ24193 seemed to be acting rather weird. I didn`t trust it.

Now there was no shield or card reader or SD reader supplied(I don`t think, unless it is hiding in the packaging). Would you like me to fit those?

Sorry that was my bad, I meant to dismantle it and send them with it but I forgot to include the small bag they were in, I should be right to refit those.

Thanks again
 

mattytrog

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@plasticninjaguy

Don`t know if you are getting message alerts or not but I`ll post whats been done to unit.

Maybe as info for other people who may be curious?

If you want me to remove this, I will.

Just unsure if you are getting notified!

I`ll give you a final breakdown of everything I have done to the unit...

Replaced 1 x LCD FPC connector
Replaced 1 x BQ24193
Replaced 2 x 10k resistors
Replaced 2 x 1uF capacitors
Replaced 1 x Tactile switch on ribbon cable (VOL+)

Given unit initial charge.

Refitted Trinket M0.
Fitted all relavent straps.
Chip running v1.4.3 firmware.
In DUAL BOOT configuration.

Retapped new threads in midframe for 2 x m1.5 machine screws (1 x board mounting, 1 x heatsink)

Removed RAM shield. Board and SoC thoroughly cleaned of metallic contamination
Ceramic compound applied.
RAM shield refitted.
Supply / fit missing cartridge reader
Supply / fit missing metal shield - modified
Supply / fit missing SD card reader (used item)

Fit used screws. Repair stripped plastic threads in rear cover.

Soak test of unit 2 hours. ALL GOOD.



Phew! Thats about it!
 
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GaM3r2Xtreme

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Hi Matty, great work with the internal modchip solutions you have here.

However, I do have a concern with where the 3.3v power is connected to the Trinket M0. The 3.3v pad is actually meant to be a power OUTPUT supplied by the Trinket. It would be better to connect to the BAT pad instead, since there is some protective circuitry in place for power regulation and reverse polarity. I'm not sure if you were aware of this, but it is all explained in Adafruit's overview guide on the Trinket: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-trinket-m0-circuitpython-arduino/pinouts

I took a quick glance at the other chips, and both the Gemma M0 and ItsyBitsy M0 Express might benefit connecting to their BAT pads as well. I don't have information on these chips though, but I'm sure Adafruit wrote guides on those as well.

On a side note, were the features pointed out by the pink arrows obsoleted? Your UF2 firmware thread seems to state payload increasing and mode switching is now handled by using the Vol+ Strap. Is this correct?
 

mattytrog

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Hi Matty, great work with the internal modchip solutions you have here.

However, I do have a concern with where the 3.3v power is connected to the Trinket M0. The 3.3v pad is actually meant to be a power OUTPUT supplied by the Trinket. It would be better to connect to the BAT pad instead, since there is some protective circuitry in place for power regulation and reverse polarity. I'm not sure if you were aware of this, but it is all explained in Adafruit's overview guide on the Trinket: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-trinket-m0-circuitpython-arduino/pinouts

I took a quick glance at the other chips, and both the Gemma M0 and ItsyBitsy M0 Express might benefit connecting to their BAT pads as well. I don't have information on these chips though, but I'm sure Adafruit wrote guides on those as well.

On a side note, were the features pointed out by the pink arrows obsoleted? Your UF2 firmware thread seems to state payload increasing and mode switching is now handled by using the Vol+ Strap. Is this correct?
It is an input OR output.

If you connect to the 5v (regulator), then that is placing extra mA on the 3v line.

Furthermore, I`ve seen the 5v regulator fail short-circuit, leading to the death of the whole 3v rail.

It is broken out so it can either be fed with 3v or you can use it as an output for the LDO regulator. The regulator is not required in our application at all and just presents as a possible needless fault. The M92T36 and emmc are not connected by a further common regulator - they rely on the circuitry that is already there.

The supply is already "regulated" by the other DC/DC components on the board.

The Switch 3v line is very smooth. It is feeding the M92T36 and the Emmc with next to no additional filtering. (there is 1 filter cap which we connect to; pin 6 on m92t36.

Please refer to the SAMD21 datasheet.

It is running without an external oscillator on the Trinket, just relying on the internal clock generator.

The reverse-polarity and overcurrent etc you mention is not an issue as this is dealt with by the converter that feeds the 3v line in the first place.

No need to do it twice.

Cheers.
 

GaM3r2Xtreme

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That actually makes perfect sense. I wasn't even thinking about the Trinket's 3V pad being pulled directly from the regulator output. Where the voltage comes from makes no difference, as long as it's 3.3V.

Plus, why use the Trinket's regulator when the switch probably has a far superior regulation scheme (which I also wasn't thinking about)?

I already liked your idea of using the switch's 3.3v rail over the 5v pad mentioned in other guides. The 3.3v rail goes down whenever the switch is turned off while the 5v rail seemed to always be one. This saves the battery from slowly draining due to the modchip.

Thanks for the clarification and insight on why this pad is used over the other.
 

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That actually makes perfect sense. I wasn't even thinking about the Trinket's 3V pad being pulled directly from the regulator output. Where the voltage comes from makes no difference, as long as it's 3.3V.

Plus, why use the Trinket's regulator when the switch probably has a far superior regulation scheme (which I also wasn't thinking about)?

I already liked your idea of using the switch's 3.3v rail over the 5v pad mentioned in other guides. The 3.3v rail goes down whenever the switch is turned off while the 5v rail seemed to always be one. This saves the battery from slowly draining due to the modchip.

Thanks for the clarification and insight on why this pad is used over the other.
No problem sir!

Adafruit assume the device will be used by kids and learners. So it is only right they fit a decent regulator to stop them frying the samd.

All we are using is just the samd really. The regulator can do whatever it likes.

On our personal consoles, none have the regulator even fitted.

They are doing other jobs. Quite tough little buggers!

Cheers for testing the software sir and I welcome comments and input like this.

:)
 

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I installed a trinket with 6 wires back in September, long before emuMMC. I just configured emuMMC alongside the stock nand and updated to stock to 8.0.1 using Nin’s servers.
I only have 6 fuses burnt. How can I allow the fuses to be burnt? I want to remove any oddities when I’m online.
 

mattytrog

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I installed a trinket with 6 wires back in September, long before emuMMC. I just configured emuMMC alongside the stock nand and updated to stock to 8.0.1 using Nin’s servers.
I only have 6 fuses burnt. How can I allow the fuses to be burnt? I want to remove any oddities when I’m online.
Simply hold reset on your chip while powering on :)
 
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denisscole

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Simply hold reset on your chip while powering on :)
Thanks! This helps me feel a little more safe when playing online on stock.
Great work, BTW. Even an novice solderer like me was able to follow the diagrams and instructions you put together (though it is something I hope I don't have to do again any time soon :) )
 
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ShadyGame

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i soldered everything for the Rebug SwitchME M0, only didnt soldered the optional, but it only works with a jig, if i desolder the joycon pins doesnt even work with a jig...

whats wrong?

it only lights up the data led when i insert the jig...

the right joycon randomly stops working, if i remove it the chip light comes on....i dont know whats going on
 
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DfknG

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*tailbetweenlegs* @mattytrog my skills aren't what I thought despite have a decent KSGER solder station.
I've bridged the capacitors when trying to attach the 3.3v line on a RCMX86 chip install.

Can you let me know how I can get my device to you for repair and install though, i'm out of Australia. or if there's someone you trust that operates out of Aus to help me out?

Many thanks.
 

mattytrog

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*tailbetweenlegs* @mattytrog my skills aren't what I thought despite have a decent KSGER solder station.
I've bridged the capacitors when trying to attach the 3.3v line on a RCMX86 chip install.

Can you let me know how I can get my device to you for repair and install though, i'm out of Australia. or if there's someone you trust that operates out of Aus to help me out?

Many thanks.

Thats no problem. Get some copper wire strands (I`m assuming you don`t have any solder wick) and use the strands as an emergency solder wick.

I have had lots come from down under to UK so it isnt an issue. Would be better if you could find someone over there though.
 

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hi guys

Today i succesfully installed a Trinket M0 in my nintendo switch....
but there is a little problem what i could not solve so far: The USB Data connection is not working anymore.

What i have done so far:
- Flashed the Trinket with the Software (DUAL-Boot + Fusee)
- Removed the USB Port, the resistor and the power LED from the Trinket
- Solder in the Trinket with all wires, exept the blue Vol+ Strap
- I used thin magnet wires for all straps

What is working:
- The switch is working normaly
- Also the Trinket works as it should. RCM Mode is working perfectly and the Trinket sends the payload as expectet. (Great work btw!)
- CFW/Emunand works too

What is NOT working:
The USB Data connection:
When i plug my switch into my PC, the switch won´t get recognized. Sometimes i get the "USB device not recognized" message... (WIN10 x64, btw)
Charching via USB is working fine (so far). And i tried 4x different USB cables on 3 different PCs..so i guess the PCs and cables are fine.

After i re-check all my solder points and connections, i made some "experiments": What wire i have to de-solder that the USB is working again.
And it looks like the problems are the two USB wires to the Trinket (Orange and green).
If i disconnect one of these strap, the USB Data-funcionallity is back and windows recognized the switch immediately.

Soo..has anyone an idea what causes such a problem? Clould the magnet wires be "to thin" for such an USB connection? (Or to long?)
The strage thing is, the payload works fine...so the USB connection should be working (i guess)?!

Thanks for your help and great work here in advance!
 
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ISI360

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So just for the records, if someone else has the same problem: It´s working now!
I just re-did all of the soldering to the chip an replace the USB straps (orange and green) with thicker and shorter cables.
And now the USB data connection is fully working again! ;)

In addition: I also cut a little whole out of the metal shielding for the chip...if some quick access is neccesary.

I attached some pics of my "work".

And again, thanks for all the great stuff here!!
 

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metaljay

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basically if you connect this then when you press the power button (and no vol button) the chip will press the vol button for you.
so one button press to get too RCM...
 

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