Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

Discussion in 'Switch - Tutorials' started by mattytrog, Jun 20, 2018.

  1. mattytrog
    OP

    mattytrog You don`t want to listen to anything I say.

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    Apr 27, 2018
    United Kingdom
    No worries.

    The BQ24193 seemed to be acting rather weird. I didn`t trust it.

    Now there was no shield or card reader or SD reader supplied(I don`t think, unless it is hiding in the packaging). Would you like me to fit those?
     
  2. plasticninjaguy

    plasticninjaguy Member

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    Aug 7, 2019
    Australia
    Sorry that was my bad, I meant to dismantle it and send them with it but I forgot to include the small bag they were in, I should be right to refit those.

    Thanks again
     
  3. mattytrog
    OP

    mattytrog You don`t want to listen to anything I say.

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    Apr 27, 2018
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    @plasticninjaguy

    Don`t know if you are getting message alerts or not but I`ll post whats been done to unit.

    Maybe as info for other people who may be curious?

    If you want me to remove this, I will.

    Just unsure if you are getting notified!

    I`ll give you a final breakdown of everything I have done to the unit...

    Replaced 1 x LCD FPC connector
    Replaced 1 x BQ24193
    Replaced 2 x 10k resistors
    Replaced 2 x 1uF capacitors
    Replaced 1 x Tactile switch on ribbon cable (VOL+)

    Given unit initial charge.

    Refitted Trinket M0.
    Fitted all relavent straps.
    Chip running v1.4.3 firmware.
    In DUAL BOOT configuration.

    Retapped new threads in midframe for 2 x m1.5 machine screws (1 x board mounting, 1 x heatsink)

    Removed RAM shield. Board and SoC thoroughly cleaned of metallic contamination
    Ceramic compound applied.
    RAM shield refitted.
    Supply / fit missing cartridge reader
    Supply / fit missing metal shield - modified
    Supply / fit missing SD card reader (used item)

    Fit used screws. Repair stripped plastic threads in rear cover.

    Soak test of unit 2 hours. ALL GOOD.



    Phew! Thats about it!
     
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  4. GaM3r2Xtreme

    GaM3r2Xtreme Member

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    Jan 9, 2016
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    Hi Matty, great work with the internal modchip solutions you have here.

    However, I do have a concern with where the 3.3v power is connected to the Trinket M0. The 3.3v pad is actually meant to be a power OUTPUT supplied by the Trinket. It would be better to connect to the BAT pad instead, since there is some protective circuitry in place for power regulation and reverse polarity. I'm not sure if you were aware of this, but it is all explained in Adafruit's overview guide on the Trinket: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-trinket-m0-circuitpython-arduino/pinouts

    I took a quick glance at the other chips, and both the Gemma M0 and ItsyBitsy M0 Express might benefit connecting to their BAT pads as well. I don't have information on these chips though, but I'm sure Adafruit wrote guides on those as well.

    On a side note, were the features pointed out by the pink arrows obsoleted? Your UF2 firmware thread seems to state payload increasing and mode switching is now handled by using the Vol+ Strap. Is this correct?
     
  5. mattytrog
    OP

    mattytrog You don`t want to listen to anything I say.

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    Apr 27, 2018
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    It is an input OR output.

    If you connect to the 5v (regulator), then that is placing extra mA on the 3v line.

    Furthermore, I`ve seen the 5v regulator fail short-circuit, leading to the death of the whole 3v rail.

    It is broken out so it can either be fed with 3v or you can use it as an output for the LDO regulator. The regulator is not required in our application at all and just presents as a possible needless fault. The M92T36 and emmc are not connected by a further common regulator - they rely on the circuitry that is already there.

    The supply is already "regulated" by the other DC/DC components on the board.

    The Switch 3v line is very smooth. It is feeding the M92T36 and the Emmc with next to no additional filtering. (there is 1 filter cap which we connect to; pin 6 on m92t36.

    Please refer to the SAMD21 datasheet.

    It is running without an external oscillator on the Trinket, just relying on the internal clock generator.

    The reverse-polarity and overcurrent etc you mention is not an issue as this is dealt with by the converter that feeds the 3v line in the first place.

    No need to do it twice.

    Cheers.
     
  6. GaM3r2Xtreme

    GaM3r2Xtreme Member

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    That actually makes perfect sense. I wasn't even thinking about the Trinket's 3V pad being pulled directly from the regulator output. Where the voltage comes from makes no difference, as long as it's 3.3V.

    Plus, why use the Trinket's regulator when the switch probably has a far superior regulation scheme (which I also wasn't thinking about)?

    I already liked your idea of using the switch's 3.3v rail over the 5v pad mentioned in other guides. The 3.3v rail goes down whenever the switch is turned off while the 5v rail seemed to always be one. This saves the battery from slowly draining due to the modchip.

    Thanks for the clarification and insight on why this pad is used over the other.
     
  7. mattytrog
    OP

    mattytrog You don`t want to listen to anything I say.

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    Apr 27, 2018
    United Kingdom
    No problem sir!

    Adafruit assume the device will be used by kids and learners. So it is only right they fit a decent regulator to stop them frying the samd.

    All we are using is just the samd really. The regulator can do whatever it likes.

    On our personal consoles, none have the regulator even fitted.

    They are doing other jobs. Quite tough little buggers!

    Cheers for testing the software sir and I welcome comments and input like this.

    :)
     
  8. denisscole

    denisscole Newbie

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    Aug 10, 2004
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    I installed a trinket with 6 wires back in September, long before emuMMC. I just configured emuMMC alongside the stock nand and updated to stock to 8.0.1 using Nin’s servers.
    I only have 6 fuses burnt. How can I allow the fuses to be burnt? I want to remove any oddities when I’m online.
     
  9. mattytrog
    OP

    mattytrog You don`t want to listen to anything I say.

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    Simply hold reset on your chip while powering on :)
     
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  10. denisscole

    denisscole Newbie

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    Aug 10, 2004
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    Thanks! This helps me feel a little more safe when playing online on stock.
    Great work, BTW. Even an novice solderer like me was able to follow the diagrams and instructions you put together (though it is something I hope I don't have to do again any time soon :) )
     
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  11. ShadyGame

    ShadyGame GBAtemp Regular

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    Sep 12, 2009
    Portugal
    i soldered everything for the Rebug SwitchME M0, only didnt soldered the optional, but it only works with a jig, if i desolder the joycon pins doesnt even work with a jig...

    whats wrong?

    it only lights up the data led when i insert the jig...

    the right joycon randomly stops working, if i remove it the chip light comes on....i dont know whats going on
     
    Last edited by ShadyGame, Aug 28, 2019
  12. DfknG

    DfknG Newbie

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    Jan 4, 2019
    Australia
    *tailbetweenlegs* @mattytrog my skills aren't what I thought despite have a decent KSGER solder station.
    I've bridged the capacitors when trying to attach the 3.3v line on a RCMX86 chip install.

    Can you let me know how I can get my device to you for repair and install though, i'm out of Australia. or if there's someone you trust that operates out of Aus to help me out?

    Many thanks.
     
  13. mattytrog
    OP

    mattytrog You don`t want to listen to anything I say.

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    Apr 27, 2018
    United Kingdom
    Thats no problem. Get some copper wire strands (I`m assuming you don`t have any solder wick) and use the strands as an emergency solder wick.

    I have had lots come from down under to UK so it isnt an issue. Would be better if you could find someone over there though.
     
  14. ISI360

    ISI360 Newbie

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    Sep 4, 2019
    Austria
    hi guys

    Today i succesfully installed a Trinket M0 in my nintendo switch....
    but there is a little problem what i could not solve so far: The USB Data connection is not working anymore.

    What i have done so far:
    - Flashed the Trinket with the Software (DUAL-Boot + Fusee)
    - Removed the USB Port, the resistor and the power LED from the Trinket
    - Solder in the Trinket with all wires, exept the blue Vol+ Strap
    - I used thin magnet wires for all straps

    What is working:
    - The switch is working normaly
    - Also the Trinket works as it should. RCM Mode is working perfectly and the Trinket sends the payload as expectet. (Great work btw!)
    - CFW/Emunand works too

    What is NOT working:
    The USB Data connection:
    When i plug my switch into my PC, the switch won´t get recognized. Sometimes i get the "USB device not recognized" message... (WIN10 x64, btw)
    Charching via USB is working fine (so far). And i tried 4x different USB cables on 3 different PCs..so i guess the PCs and cables are fine.

    After i re-check all my solder points and connections, i made some "experiments": What wire i have to de-solder that the USB is working again.
    And it looks like the problems are the two USB wires to the Trinket (Orange and green).
    If i disconnect one of these strap, the USB Data-funcionallity is back and windows recognized the switch immediately.

    Soo..has anyone an idea what causes such a problem? Clould the magnet wires be "to thin" for such an USB connection? (Or to long?)
    The strage thing is, the payload works fine...so the USB connection should be working (i guess)?!

    Thanks for your help and great work here in advance!
     
    Last edited by ISI360, Sep 4, 2019
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  15. ISI360

    ISI360 Newbie

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    Sep 4, 2019
    Austria
    So just for the records, if someone else has the same problem: It´s working now!
    I just re-did all of the soldering to the chip an replace the USB straps (orange and green) with thicker and shorter cables.
    And now the USB data connection is fully working again! ;)

    In addition: I also cut a little whole out of the metal shielding for the chip...if some quick access is neccesary.

    I attached some pics of my "work".

    And again, thanks for all the great stuff here!!
     

    Attached Files:

    porchmonkey likes this.
  16. RosaliinaDaHacker64

    RosaliinaDaHacker64 3DS hacker.

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    Oct 7, 2015
    Ireland
    Loot Lake
    Last edited by RosaliinaDaHacker64, Sep 7, 2019
  17. Madsmaten

    Madsmaten Member

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    May 31, 2015
    Can somebody help me explain what the Vol+ strap (blue wire) is intended for? :)
     
  18. metaljay

    metaljay GBAtemp Fan

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    Jan 10, 2012
    basically if you connect this then when you press the power button (and no vol button) the chip will press the vol button for you.
    so one button press to get too RCM...
     
  19. Madsmaten

    Madsmaten Member

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    May 31, 2015
    So if you want to dual boot between ofw and cfw, your should not use it?
     
  20. metaljay

    metaljay GBAtemp Fan

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    Jan 10, 2012
    id solder it up, then use the software to enable or disable the strap.
    But yes, proper dual boot doesn't need it
     
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