bdm-030 short ?

dumsomph · Oct 19, 2024

I just changed to tmr joysticks and L3 button stopped working. so i was trying to jump some spots to get L3 working and now got the orange 3 flashes and wont connect anymore. after i connected the red line is when the controller stopped working.

thesjaakspoiler · Oct 19, 2024

Yeah, that is most likely a short somewhere.

I messed up too a few weeks ago.
I was so confident about my work, assuming that is was something else like a bad batch of controllers or some firmware issue.
I didn't even bother to check it with a multimeter.
But in the end it was just a short.

I wrote all my findings down here :
https://gbatemp.net/threads/solved-ps5-controller-blinking-orange-3-times.660237/
Just measure for continuity over the outer pins of any of the resistors of the analog stick.

I would recommend removing the red wire to see if that removes the continuity between ground and the 3.3v.
If you still have continuity, then check if you maybe bridged that resistor.
If that fixes that continuity between ground and the 3.3v, next I would check for continuity between the top and bottom pins of the push button.
There should only be continuity when pressing the button.
The pads are surrounded by the ground plane on both sides so maybe one of the top pins is continuously connected to the ground.
The bottom 2 pins should be connected to the gound.
You can check that on the right side to be sure.

Rasa39 · Friday at 12:48 PM

I don't think that trace is meant to be connected, it looks to be separated, it's possible you're creating the short by having the wire connecting the two points on the red line.

I had an issue with the vias coming away for the bottom two of the four button posts, I had to run jumper wires (0.01mm) through to the other side to repair the traces. I can't remember about the top two now and I have my sticks fully installed, but try checking the other side of the board and see if the connection is meant to go through the board to the top side, like the lower two joints on the button do.

I don't know if you've caused any permanent damage, but if removing the red wire causes the controller to work again, you can always check if the L3 is actually soldered correctly, by shorting two of the bottom and top pins of the button together with tweezers or something, do this in a diagonal pattern, so top left to bottom right, and top right to bottom left. See if either of those cause the L3 to register as a press in game-pad tester.

If that doesn't work, then the connection isn't there, even if it looks soldered, you might have damaged the vias similar to how I did when removing the old stick.

dumsomph · Friday at 6:17 PM

Rasa39 said:
I don't think that trace is meant to be connected, it looks to be separated, it's possible you're creating the short by having the wire connecting the two points on the red line.

I had an issue with the vias coming away for the bottom two of the four button posts, I had to run jumper wires (0.01mm) through to the other side to repair the traces. I can't remember about the top two now and I have my sticks fully installed, but try checking the other side of the board and see if the connection is meant to go through the board to the top side, like the lower two joints on the button do.

I don't know if you've caused any permanent damage, but if removing the red wire causes the controller to work again, you can always check if the L3 is actually soldered correctly, by shorting two of the bottom and top pins of the button together with tweezers or something, do this in a diagonal pattern, so top left to bottom right, and top right to bottom left. See if either of those cause the L3 to register as a press in game-pad tester.

If that doesn't work, then the connection isn't there, even if it looks soldered, you might have damaged the vias similar to how I did when removing the old stick.

i removed the joystick and still 3x yellow led. where is the vias located?

Post automatically merged: Friday at 6:33 PM

does anyone know what this circuit is?

Rasa39 · Friday at 11:12 PM

Wait, do you have the battery connected when you're trying to use it now after removing the wire? IIRC the dualsense would only flash whenever I tried to connect it for testing (wired) without the battery connected. If so, connect the battery, then plug the controller in to the pc and see if it shows up.

Post automatically merged: Friday at 11:21 PM

nvm, i forgot you said 3 blinks, I believe it was one or two for battery. Did you maybe catch the little component that is on the top side of the board, I believe it's a capacity, it's tiny and there's one right near both thumb-sticks. I accidentally knocked one of mine into a mounting hole when cleaning the pads, luckily I spotted it and was able to reconnect it to the board properly.

But it could be that you maybe misplaced those capacitors (I think it's a cap, not sure, but it is tiny), or maybe you shorted the pads together with solder too, since again it's so small and the pads are so close. Take a look at the front of the board, take a close up pic near the place where the thumb-stick goes, if you can.

dumsomph · 2024-11-16T12:50:24+0000

Rasa39 said:
Wait, do you have the battery connected when you're trying to use it now after removing the wire? IIRC the dualsense would only flash whenever I tried to connect it for testing (wired) without the battery connected. If so, connect the battery, then plug the controller in to the pc and see if it shows up.

Post automatically merged: Friday at 11:21 PM

nvm, i forgot you said 3 blinks, I believe it was one or two for battery. Did you maybe catch the little component that is on the top side of the board, I believe it's a capacity, it's tiny and there's one right near both thumb-sticks. I accidentally knocked one of mine into a mounting hole when cleaning the pads, luckily I spotted it and was able to reconnect it to the board properly.

But it could be that you maybe misplaced those capacitors (I think it's a cap, not sure, but it is tiny), or maybe you shorted the pads together with solder too, since again it's so small and the pads are so close. Take a look at the front of the board, take a close up pic near the place where the thumb-stick goes, if you can.

Rasa39 · 2024-11-17T02:39:33+0000

Okay so it looks like you're missing all three of them, I have a bdm-020 and it only had one component on each stick, again I think they are capacitors, could be mistaken, have no idea what the values would be either.

It also looks like you've bridged the one in the lower right. I don't know if bridging the other two would get the circuit to work again, but that's generally not recommended unless you know exactly what would happen by doing so. (since a lot of the time, it can cause more damage)

I have no idea if those are related to the controller not turning on, but it's clearly a bunch of components that are meant to be there, but aren't, so it's probably not good that they are missing, which would also break the circuits they are meant to be on too. Apparently bad trigger ribbons can cause the 3 blinks too, so maybe check those, but I've put controllers together without those trigger ribbons connected and they've worked fine for testing.

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