I think it was a Samsung but I can't really remember for sure.The one lite that worked, what was the emmc manufacturer?
I think it was a Samsung but I can't really remember for sure.The one lite that worked, what was the emmc manufacturer?
There are people here who charges 60 for everything, regardless of the model120 seems a bit low for oled if 100 for v2 is the reference. The oled takes quite a bit more time, effort and risk.
Meanwhile I kmow people thay were selling zelda oleds, 700 us pre modded. Including console and chip priceThere are people here who charges 60 for everything, regardless of the model
And the funny thing is that they are around here asking for helpMeanwhile I kmow people thay were selling zelda oleds, 700 us pre modded. Including console and chip price
rp2040 tiny, the usb connector are pluggable, on zero you need to manually remove it, and when you need the usb you need to solder it back.hi folks, i would like to ask what is the difference between installing a rp2040 zero and a rp2040 tiny?
I don't know, try to ask the seller, about the resistor value. It should 47 ohms.How can I know if I have purchased the updated version?
Not the ones I knowAnd the funny thing is that they are around here asking for help
On the back of the chip it says rev 1.1How can I know if I have purchased the updated version?
Hey bro the installation is neat, where did you get the tiny copper thing for Dat 0 >Thank you so very much @abal1000x for helping me diagnose the corrupt emmc black screen.
I resoldered everything including a permanent dat0 adapter and not only did this fix it, but it boots INSTANTLY
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Bro i've experienced it , try to use mosfet instead of the flex ribbon, idk why the flex cable's mosfet shorted when i tried to install it on my oled, but it works great on mosfet all the timeIt made no difference. I got it to boot once to the correct screen and when I put the shield on again it’s just a blue light
I’m still not sure because it’s still acting strange sometime. Like it’ll shut off. It’s very frustrating. I cut the shield a little more just in case it was pinching and went back to the 0.1 wire instead of the 30awg since I was afraid of the pressure it might be causing. Before changing all that cuz that was this morning at one point I got a random orange screen of death. After unplugging it and plugging it back it went away and hasn’t come back but that was definitely scary. I ordered some 36awg which should be here soon hopefully.So the culprit is the flex after all?
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I say 1 week worth of meal is the ideal..
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hey hey, where that beatifull one again.
Can you post a link to the good sellers?there are a few good distrubitors of the flex cable but there are also alot ones who send out trash cables , we have seen alot of people having issues.
after installing mosfets without flex the issue where gone.
its the same with those crappy dat0 adapters.
so like i say use mosfets and save that money u pay and waiting time for the flex and be done with it
Hey well i did try to see all the questions that where asked when u released it but since u need to use a email to get further i stopped there mainly because its google Xd ( Privacy nerd here)Meanwhile I kmow people thay were selling zelda oleds, 700 us pre modded. Including console and chip price
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So I've just checked the survey results @Dee87 @lightninjay @QuiTim tagging because you might be interested to know the results so far;
So far the most common factors are;
If others wish to reply the survey is here
- Switch Lite - (57.1%)
- Rp2040-zero/one - (85.7%)
- Mosfet install - (71.4%)
- Dual Mosfet - (60%)
- Most Common Mosfet - IRFHS8342
- No SCA/SLC - (100%)
- Memory - Toshiba/skhynix (42.9%)
- 47Ohm Resistors - (71.4%)
- Blue Screen - (57.1%)
- Console worked before closing - (57.1%)
I like the idea, and if enough people take this survey I think we might get some insights on these 2-3 types of errors that we have been seeing recently.Meanwhile I kmow people thay were selling zelda oleds, 700 us pre modded. Including console and chip price
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So I've just checked the survey results @Dee87 @lightninjay @QuiTim tagging because you might be interested to know the results so far;
So far the most common factors are;
If others wish to reply the survey is here
- Switch Lite - (57.1%)
- Rp2040-zero/one - (85.7%)
- Mosfet install - (71.4%)
- Dual Mosfet - (60%)
- Most Common Mosfet - IRFHS8342
- No SCA/SLC - (100%)
- Memory - Toshiba/skhynix (42.9%)
- 47Ohm Resistors - (71.4%)
- Blue Screen - (57.1%)
- Console worked before closing - (57.1%)
I don't know, try to ask the seller, about the resistor value. It should 47 ohms.
I found out I have the first batch of tiny, so I have to remove the 470 ohm resistors and put in the 47 ohm ones.On the back of the chip it says rev 1.1
I got the same issue and remembered your post. In my case, the D point was bulging so much that when the fan is screwed in, the mosfet gets shorted. I resoldered and flattened all mosfet points and it's working fine now.I’m going to rip my hair out and throw this switch against the wall every time I put the heat shield and cover back on it won’t boot. When those are attached and everything is screwed down I get a constant pulsing blue light. I’ve redone everything a half dozen time. Nothing is shorted. Everything is covered. Idk what to do anymore.
I’m going to rip my hair out and throw this switch against the wall every time I put the heat shield and cover back on it won’t boot. When those are attached and everything is screwed down I get a constant pulsing blue light. I’ve redone everything a half dozen time. Nothing is shorted. Everything is covered. Idk what to do anymore.