Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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starlander

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I’m having some troubles with my console this weekend. I have discovered some unusual behavior with USB2.0 devices attached to USB2.0 hubs. These devices (example: Magic-NS) work properly when connected directly to the USBC port, but do not work when connected via a USB2.0 hub. Everything has functioned without problem until yesterday.

I have a switchme installed running 0.9.7 simple-UF2 with all straps except vol+. Is it possible that the USB strap may be related to these troubles?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited by starlander,

mattytrog

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I’m having some troubles with my console this weekend. I have discovered some unusual behavior with USB2.0 devices attached to USB2.0 hubs. These devices (example: Magic-NS) work properly when connected directly to the USBC port, but do not work when connected via a USB2.0 hub. Everything has functioned without problem until yesterday.

I have a switchme installed running 0.9.7 simple-UF2 with all straps except vol+. Is it possible that the USB strap may be related to these troubles?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Is it possible you could test with an old version of Simple-UF2? One without the strap code? 0.9.3 maybe? Check the changelogs and try a version with no strap code. If none, I`ll build a quick version for you to test.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

oo, thank you its oke now. it realy needed this 12sec . normal off did not do the job.

Good.

have you seen my private messages to you?

No. I had loads and loads that I didn`t read, yet they were marked as read. I probably read them when half asleep.

Can you remind me?


a nother thing, is it now posible to have permanent CFW with only joycon strap and without auto rcm?

Absolutely not, sorry!
 

starlander

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Is it possible you could test with an old version of Simple-UF2? One without the strap code? 0.9.3 maybe? Check the changelogs and try a version with no strap code. If none, I`ll build a quick version for you to test.

Sure think. I’ll need a day or so to downgrade and test it. So far I have tried multiple hubs with the same result, including the official switch dock.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

slslasher

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If the resistor is damaged, you can safely bridge it or replace with any value up to 150R

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------


What firmware are you on? Can you send a payload?

If not, then RCM is disabled, and console is detecting a fuse mismatch is my guess...

How I do this is to remove back of console, unclip battery and disconnect USB (which you probably have done)... Unclip emmc. Then plug battery back in & usb in. Should give you RCM. Or use a jig and hold vol+ (instead of unclipping NAND) then plug battery in.

DONT send a payload yet, plug emmc back in... THEN send Hekate or whatever to sort your boot0/1 out.
Firmware 4.1, yes I got a jig to boot autorcm. I can send payload but it will freeze at SX OS splash screen. For hekate, I am able to dump boot0/1. But when I try to boot into cfw it will just be a black screen, same as trying to boot into horizon.
 

mattytrog

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Sure think. I’ll need a day or so to downgrade and test it. So far I have tried multiple hubs with the same result, including the official switch dock.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Very strange. All is working here. At least with the dock.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Firmware 4.1, yes I got a jig to boot autorcm. I can send payload but it will freeze at SX OS splash screen. For hekate, I am able to dump boot0/1. But when I try to boot into cfw it will just be a black screen, same as trying to boot into horizon.
Are you flashing the Trinkets before fitting?

What I think is happening, is for whatever reason, that particular Trinket is zapping power from the 3v3 line making it temporarily drop like a sack of shit.

What pad on Trinket are you using for power?

3v or USB?
 

starlander

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Very strange. All is working here. At least with the dock.

Agree. The USB strap idea is just a thought I needed to explore. I will go back and check for good solder joints as well.

Problem is happening in both OFW and CFW so it may be some kind of device hardware issue.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

slslasher

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Very strange. All is working here. At least with the dock.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------


Are you flashing the Trinkets before fitting?

What I think is happening, is for whatever reason, that particular Trinket is zapping power from the 3v3 line making it temporarily drop like a sack of shit.

What pad on Trinket are you using for power?

3v or USB?
Yup, I flashed it before fitting it in. I soldered it to the 3v pad. But since I already removed the connection from mobo to trinket, shouldn't the switch be reverted back to normal.
 

mattytrog

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Yup, I flashed it before fitting it in. I soldered it to the 3v pad. But since I already removed the connection from mobo to trinket, shouldn't the switch be reverted back to normal.
Yes of course.

You have either lifted a component or a joint is otherwise dry, or Boot0 / 1 is corrupted.

You might need to choi the firmware on the emmc (rebuild)

Very strange thing to happen though.

Is the trinket still working?
 

slslasher

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Yes of course.

You have either lifted a component or a joint is otherwise dry, or Boot0 / 1 is corrupted.

You might need to choi the firmware on the emmc (rebuild)

Very strange thing to happen though.

Is the trinket still working?
Very unlikely that I have lifted a component. I can't even boot into homebrew menu or is there other way to rebuild without booting in?
 

mattytrog

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Very unlikely that I have lifted a component. I can't even boot into homebrew menu or is there other way to rebuild without booting in?
Yes. Use the choidujour tutorial (command line).

I`ll send you a file if you PM me. Tell me when you have downloaded it
 

mattytrog

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I'm still unsure what the usb strap actually does?
OK...

Without it, with autoRCM or all straps connected, plug into USB while console is off...

Result = RCM.

To get out of it, you either have to reset chip to send payload or power off for 12 seconds.

But with the strap, when you disconnect USB, chip pushes payload... Getting you out of this RCM
 

PSxed

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OK...

Without it, with autoRCM or all straps connected, plug into USB while console is off...

Result = RCM.

To get out of it, you either have to reset chip to send payload or power off for 12 seconds.

But with the strap, when you disconnect USB, chip pushes payload... Getting you out of this RCM

Ah i see. Funny that i've never experienced this problem in the past. Good thing that i won't in the future now lol.
 
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taxco

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Is there any way to have cfw boot with out straps and without autorcm?

And do you have sugestions how i can make an external rst wire to update the uf file without opening the switch.

OK...

Without it, with autoRCM or all straps connected, plug into USB while console is off...

Result = RCM.

To get out of it, you either have to reset chip to send payload or power off for 12 seconds.

But with the strap, when you disconnect USB, chip pushes payload... Getting you out of this RCM
 

mattytrog

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Is there any way to have cfw boot with out straps and without autorcm?

No sorry.
And do you have sugestions how i can make an external rst wire to update the uf file without opening the switch.

We normally modify the shield and press the back cover of the switch twice.

This is the neatest solution imo

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

20190204_140232.jpg

@GunzOfNavarone
 

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GunzOfNavarone

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No sorry.


We normally modify the shield and press the back cover of the switch twice.

This is the neatest solution imo

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

View attachment 157053
@GunzOfNavarone

Amazing, such tidy work. For anyone viewing this, Matty has been an absolute star. I attempted this install but (not for lack of trying), couldn't solder to the points on the board. Whether it was because I had a crappy fixed temp iron I'm unsure, but I ended up floating one of the pads. I got in touch with Matty who offered to sort it out for such a reasonable price. - I've sent it to him, and within only a few hours of taking delivery, he's done it all i.e. repaired the pad and installed my SwitchMe trinket. - Absolute legend. I'd recommend him to anyone.
 

mattytrog

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Amazing, such tidy work. For anyone viewing this, Matty has been an absolute star. I attempted this install but (not for lack of trying), couldn't solder to the points on the board. Whether it was because I had a crappy fixed temp iron I'm unsure, but I ended up floating one of the pads. I got in touch with Matty who offered to sort it out for such a reasonable price. - I've sent it to him, and within only a few hours of taking delivery, he's done it all i.e. repaired the pad and installed my SwitchMe trinket. - Absolute legend. I'd recommend him to anyone.
Very kind of you!

Will get it in post! :)
 
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DniiU974

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Hi mattytrog!
Just wanted to thank you again for this great topic. I just installed my Trinket with both straps and it works like a charm :)
I'll try to understand how payload works now ;)
 
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If i press power while in off state with a usb-c connected it boots to horizon and it's not injecting my payload. Is that normal behaviour? Because that will burn my fuse right?
 

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