Here's A Guide To Installing The Trinket M0 Into The Switch.

Program The Trinket Before You Remove The Usb Port, Saves You Doing It After You Complete The Install.

First Thing To Do Is Remove The Usb Port From The Trinket, If You Have A Hot Air Wand Then Use That To Remove The Port It Will Reduce The Risk Of Damage To The Pads.

Now That The Usb Port Has Been Removed You Want To Solder Wire To The Data Pads, White = Data- And Green Data+ In This Guide.

Now Solder Wire To The Bat Pad = Red, Gnd Pad = Black, Pad 4 = Orange & Pad 3 = Brown In This Guide.

Also Remove The Resistor Next To The Ppower Led Mark Out In Purple In This Guide.

When You Have The Trinket All Prepared, You Can Now Proceed To The Install To The Switch.

Once The Install Is Completely Done Then Clean Up The Points You Have Soldered To Using Isopropyl And Cotton Buds/Q-Tips.

Alternative Point For Pad 4.

Alternative Points For Joycon Rail Pin 10.

If You Decide On Using This Alternative Point Then Use Enamel Coated Jumper Wire 0.10mm.

Remember Take Your Time It's Not A Race lol. Rushing Can Lead To Mistakes.

Tools Required.

Kynar Wire 30 AWG.
Soldering Iron.
Hot Air Wand For Usb Port Removal(Optional)
Isopropyl.
Cotton Bud/Q-Tips.
Flux.
Solder.
Enamel Jumper Wire (Optional)


Thanks And Credit Goes To Xboxexpert For This Solution.

I Think That Covers Everything.

EDIT..

here's another method for the install of the trinket, this method does away with the pad 4, as some may find it tricky to solder to the cap used on the mobo.

the rst pad is used instead and the wire is linked to the power button, Also this has a bonus that you can double press the power button to put the trinket into boot loader mode for uploading a new payload.

of course you don't have to use the rst pad at all, you can't just press power button and volume up button, then press reset button for rcm mode.

this method should be ok for the novices.

install at your own risk.

the pad on the power button to use.

i have one more method to try but I really think this one is not to bad method.

the more methods the better I say, of course to try and make it as easy as possible for pros and novices.

EDIT...
another method for the install of the trinket.

this method is basically same as all other methods, just a different points uses for the bat pad and rst pad.

this install will allow you to have the trinket power off when you fully power off the switch.

double press the reset button on the trinket to get into boot loader mode, this may take a couple of attempts to do.

the payload that you use already will work with this method no need for new ones.

here's the diagram for method 3, you could possibly have this as a 4 wire install, if you install auto rcm mode, but as my sd card module port is buggerd I couldn't test that out.

ok it seems method 3 needs auto rcm installed for it to work without the need to use the rst pad

so for them that don't want to use auto rcm mode then solder a wire from rst pad to the point on the power button, and use pad 3 to the pin 10 on the joycon rail or one of the alt points on mobo.

beware the alt points are small so use at your own risk.

ok anyone with changing issues test these 2 points, you should get 5v on the usb port side, and around 3.2v on the switch side.

if your getting the volts on the switch side that are fluctuating up & down then replace the part with the v on top it's a diode, you want one that fits so the actual size is either 0402 or 0603 in dimension (i'm using 0402/0603 as an example for size purpose only)

around page 16 has more info about this component..

dont come moaning if you damage your console doing this install, i'm not responsible for you opening or taking a soldering iron to your console.
you do this at your own risk any damage is down to yourself.

another thing if your trinket starts to get very hot to the point you can't touch it, then the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic is on it's way out, so you will need to replace the ic or just replace your trinket.

at some point it wont power up after this has happened.
1 = gets very hot.
2 = reset starts to become tempermental .
3 = dead
4 = fix replace the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic

edit

added uf2 drag and drop files for r4 trinket gemma dongles or for a 4 wire internal install.

atmosphere
hekate 4.2
Sxos
rajnx
reinx

 

[1219chicho]

you don't have to use pad 4 at all, it depends on the individual.

just install method 3 using the cap point or bat point on mobo for power wire.

rst pad to power button pad.

then just press power button for ofw or vol+ & power for cfw.

pad 3 to joycon point.

solder pad 0 to the vol+ point if you don't want to keep pressing the vol+ to get into rcm mode.

you can have so many method for the install. it's just what's best for you.

Do we need a loop to do the install or should it be simple enough I have done jtags and other installs before but I am not a pro?

 

[Xandroz]

i guess as long as you dont jtag your fine, im not a pro either but its the same as jtag hell alot easier to be honest.

all those jasper/falcons we used to solder to a similar cap.

im gussing your fine, and if you afriad to go that way use method 2 youll be fine

 

[1219chicho]

Ok

i guess as long as you dont jtag your fine, im not a pro either but its the same as jtag hell alot easier to be honest.

all those jasper/falcons we used to solder to a similar cap.

im gussing your fine, and if you afriad to go that way use method 2 youll be fine

Maybe I'll do one of you guys this weekend when I get a chance to do it had one more question will there be a actual time where we won't need a chip to boot to cfw?

 

[mrdude]

Ok

Maybe I'll do one of you guys this weekend when I get a chance to do it had one more question will there be a actual time where we won't need a chip to boot to cfw?

A chip will work on any firmware, so you can update either intentionally or accidentally & you'll still be able to run payloads. As for a softmod - well who knows? but a chip is 100% future proof.

 

[Maximize0987]

i guess as long as you dont jtag your fine, im not a pro either but its the same as jtag hell alot easier to be honest.

all those jasper/falcons we used to solder to a similar cap.

im gussing your fine, and if you afriad to go that way use method 2 youll be fine

I think jtag was much easier, the solder points for jtag 360 are much larger

 

[Xandroz]

i think its the same beaides the cap soldering, and you got an install method to work around it, its def easier and faster to do in my opion, with time and several consoles you do it on 20 mins top

i have done around 200 plus rgh, and im not a pro, so i guess this one is going to be a piece of cake, just need to be patient in the first few install thats all.

 

[1219chicho]

I think jtag was much easier, the solder points for jtag 360 are much larger

Is a magnifier loop needed for the points or there big enough

 

[Xandroz]

havent tried it yet, will do in a couple of days when i get the trinket

but i guess better use one if you can

 

[metaljay]

@M-O-B I’ve just ordered my trinket, I tried having a look through the first page again but struggling to identify what’s the preferred solution after all your testing.
What’s your recommendation for the best setup? I don’t mind tiny soldering, I’m more interested in the safest route (less chance of ban) and that doesn’t drain the battery (as I often leave undocked for weeks)

 

[M-O-B]

@M-O-B I’ve just ordered my trinket, I tried having a look through the first page again but struggling to identify what’s the preferred solution after all your testing.
What’s your recommendation for the best setup? I don’t mind tiny soldering, I’m more interested in the safest route (less chance of ban) and that doesn’t drain the battery (as I often leave undocked for weeks)

method 1 i still think is the best one.

but method 3 is ok if you like auto rcm only 4 wires.

or 6 wires if you dont want auto rcm

less chance of ban, then dont mod your console.

 

[M-O-B]

if anyone dont want to use the joycon wire, then solder a 10k resistor to either one of these pins then have the other end go to pin 7 on the joycon.

i guess as long as you dont jtag your fine, im not a pro either but its the same as jtag hell alot easier to be honest.

all those jasper/falcons we used to solder to a similar cap.

im gussing your fine, and if you afriad to go that way use method 2 youll be fine

doing the switch is easy but not as easy as doing the jtag/rgh on any 360.

you stuff any pads or traces up on a switch and it's harder to repair.

 

[Soluble]

if anyone dont want to use the joycon wire, then solder a 10k resistor to either one of these pins then have the other end go to pin 7 on the joycon.

View attachment 136288




doing the switch is easy but not as easy as doing the jtag/rgh on any 360.

you stuff any pads or traces up on a switch and it's harder to repair.

RGH wasn't easy. You needed to solder in to dump the nand first. Then either remove or leave that process and solder in the RGH mod. Just my opinion, but we are talking a 4-7 wire install with a file flash. If you could RGH a 360 then imo you can do this. The XBO mod was easy with nothing but massive points to solder to. PS2 was definitely more difficult.

 

[M-O-B]

well decided to actually set my sd card up, so it's done before I forget about it.

I'm holding out from buying the sx os as I'd only want it for the backup loader.

RGH wasn't easy. You needed to solder in to dump the nand first. Then either remove or leave that process and solder in the RGH mod. Just my opinion, but we are talking a 4-7 wire install with a file flash. If you could RGH a 360 then imo you can do this. The XBO mod was easy with nothing but massive points to solder to. PS2 was definitely more difficult.

the difficulty level really does depend on the individuals soldering skills no matter what console you are modding.

 

[mrdude]

@frep

Did you manage to get those Bootloaders programmed OK? also what's the status on your circuit design - did you test it?

 

[frep]

@frep

Did you manage to get those Bootloaders programmed OK? also what's the status on your circuit design - did you test it?

Hey MrDude!
I wasn‘t able so far, to program the bootloader :-(
I could compile and run the openocd program on the rpi, but got an error downloading the bootloader. I try to figure out, if the config-file or the hardware (aka my soldering-skills) is the problem... but probably not before tomorrow... so it will take some time.

 

[Quiggy]

I have a problem with the install. I used method 1 with additional wire to the volume up button. So its able to Boot automatically into RCM. When I turn off the console and attach it to the power cable it won't boot up. The trinket turns on and then goes to sleep and I have to rest the console to get it booting. Is there a workaround for this behavior ?

Edit: If it then boots up the trinket won't recognize it and so the switch does not go into rcm. I first have to disconnect the power supply. Then its working as expected.
Thats a risk for consoles who don't want to burn fuses....

 

[mrdude]

Hey MrDude!
I wasn‘t able so far, to program the bootloader :-(
I could compile and run the openocd program on the rpi, but got an error downloading the bootloader. I try to figure out, if the config-file or the hardware (aka my soldering-skills) is the problem... but probably not before tomorrow... so it will take some time.

The bootloader is here:
https://github.com/arduino/ArduinoCore-samd/raw/master/bootloaders/zero/samd21_sam_ba.bin

You can download check the link with a web browser - if you can't download, you maybe need to use the sudo command due to permissions on your sd card:

sudo wget https://github.com/arduino/ArduinoCore-samd/raw/master/bootloaders/zero/samd21_sam_ba.bin

 

[M-O-B]

I have a problem with the install. I used method 1 with additional wire to the volume up button. So its able to Boot automatically into RCM. When I turn off the console and attach it to the power cable it won't boot up. The trinket turns on and then goes to sleep and I have to rest the console to get it booting. Is there a workaround for this behavior ?

Edit: If it then boots up the trinket won't recognize it and so the switch does not go into rcm. I first have to disconnect the power supply. Then its working as expected.
Thats a risk for consoles who don't want to burn fuses....

when you say you have to remove the power to get it to work as expected, what excatly do you mean the console boots ofw ok or it boots rcm mode ok.

I expect it's a soldering issue but only going from what your saying.

 

[Quiggy]

Without the Powersupply it successfully goes into rcm and Boots Hekate. But if you turn it off and First Connects it To the Power Supply it wont work. You have To hardreset it and Then it only boots ofw until you disconnect it from power

Maybe a ground Issue of something like that ? I think it has sonething To do with the External Power ? If My soldering is wrong it Should Not work at all

 

[Ferris1000]

So today my diode arrived one genues told me should be the right one to fix my not charging Nintendo switch.

The diode is so big that i can read the 4 big printed letters without a magnifier.

There is something really wrong because the size is not twice not 4 time bigger...no it’s like 50 times bigger than the broken part.

I don’t know who I can trust here in this thread because I payed now over 15£ for 5 pieces of the wrong part. I won’t try to solder this part into my Nintendo switch because if the broken part is a z diode it’s not the same because a z diode drops the voltage and I think it’s more likely a z diode which I will know when I get my hands on another (not broken) Nintendo switch.

If someone want really help he/she could plug in a 5v power supply and check the voltage at both sides of the smd part (V)

Then plug in the official charger and check the also voltage at both sides of the SMD part (V)

Please let me know the voltages.

Then unplug your battery and the charger.
Check the resistance of the SMD part (V) in both ways it will tell it’s a diode or something else.

BTW: The Guy who told me “5 times” it’s a diode, I want to be sure what it is and not just to use me as a test subject what could destroy my whole switch console because of to much voltage and ignorance. A diode is not a diode, there are big difference between them.