Here's A Guide To Installing The Trinket M0 Into The Switch.

Program The Trinket Before You Remove The Usb Port, Saves You Doing It After You Complete The Install.

First Thing To Do Is Remove The Usb Port From The Trinket, If You Have A Hot Air Wand Then Use That To Remove The Port It Will Reduce The Risk Of Damage To The Pads.

Now That The Usb Port Has Been Removed You Want To Solder Wire To The Data Pads, White = Data- And Green Data+ In This Guide.

Now Solder Wire To The Bat Pad = Red, Gnd Pad = Black, Pad 4 = Orange & Pad 3 = Brown In This Guide.

Also Remove The Resistor Next To The Ppower Led Mark Out In Purple In This Guide.

When You Have The Trinket All Prepared, You Can Now Proceed To The Install To The Switch.

Once The Install Is Completely Done Then Clean Up The Points You Have Soldered To Using Isopropyl And Cotton Buds/Q-Tips.

Alternative Point For Pad 4.

Alternative Points For Joycon Rail Pin 10.

If You Decide On Using This Alternative Point Then Use Enamel Coated Jumper Wire 0.10mm.

Remember Take Your Time It's Not A Race lol. Rushing Can Lead To Mistakes.

Tools Required.

Kynar Wire 30 AWG.
Soldering Iron.
Hot Air Wand For Usb Port Removal(Optional)
Isopropyl.
Cotton Bud/Q-Tips.
Flux.
Solder.
Enamel Jumper Wire (Optional)


Thanks And Credit Goes To Xboxexpert For This Solution.

I Think That Covers Everything.

EDIT..

here's another method for the install of the trinket, this method does away with the pad 4, as some may find it tricky to solder to the cap used on the mobo.

the rst pad is used instead and the wire is linked to the power button, Also this has a bonus that you can double press the power button to put the trinket into boot loader mode for uploading a new payload.

of course you don't have to use the rst pad at all, you can't just press power button and volume up button, then press reset button for rcm mode.

this method should be ok for the novices.

install at your own risk.

the pad on the power button to use.

i have one more method to try but I really think this one is not to bad method.

the more methods the better I say, of course to try and make it as easy as possible for pros and novices.

EDIT...
another method for the install of the trinket.

this method is basically same as all other methods, just a different points uses for the bat pad and rst pad.

this install will allow you to have the trinket power off when you fully power off the switch.

double press the reset button on the trinket to get into boot loader mode, this may take a couple of attempts to do.

the payload that you use already will work with this method no need for new ones.

here's the diagram for method 3, you could possibly have this as a 4 wire install, if you install auto rcm mode, but as my sd card module port is buggerd I couldn't test that out.

ok it seems method 3 needs auto rcm installed for it to work without the need to use the rst pad

so for them that don't want to use auto rcm mode then solder a wire from rst pad to the point on the power button, and use pad 3 to the pin 10 on the joycon rail or one of the alt points on mobo.

beware the alt points are small so use at your own risk.

ok anyone with changing issues test these 2 points, you should get 5v on the usb port side, and around 3.2v on the switch side.

if your getting the volts on the switch side that are fluctuating up & down then replace the part with the v on top it's a diode, you want one that fits so the actual size is either 0402 or 0603 in dimension (i'm using 0402/0603 as an example for size purpose only)

around page 16 has more info about this component..

dont come moaning if you damage your console doing this install, i'm not responsible for you opening or taking a soldering iron to your console.
you do this at your own risk any damage is down to yourself.

another thing if your trinket starts to get very hot to the point you can't touch it, then the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic is on it's way out, so you will need to replace the ic or just replace your trinket.

at some point it wont power up after this has happened.
1 = gets very hot.
2 = reset starts to become tempermental .
3 = dead
4 = fix replace the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic

edit

added uf2 drag and drop files for r4 trinket gemma dongles or for a 4 wire internal install.

atmosphere
hekate 4.2
Sxos
rajnx
reinx

 

[Gianga]

I like to test myself as a test

 

[tecfreak]

@frep
Looks good, respect!

I have two suggestions.
1. Get rid of the holes inside the testpads. You could also scale them down a bit and make them rectangular.
2. Keep some distance between the edges of the pcb and the traces and solder points. At least 1-2mm to avoid shorts due to exposed copper.

 

[frep]

@frep

Nice one, can you post a pic of underneath the board as well? Also are you still going to test this on a breadboard before you order and PCB's?

sure, bottom side pic of the board:

and yes, I will for sure make some testing on the breadboard, before ordering pcb!
The good news is, the parts have arrived today. So I can start today or tomorrow with soldering the smd-parts on the breakout boards, and see if I can flash the bootloader on the m0 with a raspberry pi (as you have proposed). Finally I can write a little Arduino test-sketch and have a look if the transistor circuit works as expected.
I guess, if everything goes well, this or next weekend, I should be ready to order the pcb's...

@frep
Looks good, respect!

I have two suggestions.
1. Get rid of the holes inside the testpads. You could also scale them down a bit and make them rectangular.
2. Keep some distance between the edges of the pcb and the traces and solder points. At least 1-2mm to avoid shorts due to exposed copper.

Thanks for the feedback!
I can't get rid of most of the vias (holes) on the testpad, since they connect the top and bottom layer traces. Shape and size of the testpads are a thing of personal preference. I probably leave it the way they are and spend the time to have a look at your second suggestion, to keep the traces from the edges of the pcb away.

 

[tecfreak]

I can't get rid of most of the vias (holes) on the testpad, since they connect the top and bottom layer traces.

Shame on me. Totally forgot that they are needed.

 

[Soluble]

https://mobile.twitter.com/Aboshi2011/status/1019280486764548097 pre orders starting today hopefully! 4 wire install with auto RCM

 

[mrdude]

@frep,

Thanks for posting the other side, I want to check the circuit - but I am sure you already did. I wish you luck on flashing the bootloader - are you going to flash the Zero or the trinket bootloader? Personally I would flash the zero as it has more pins enabled. I've already downloaded/compiled the software for the PI(2), it takes about 15 minutes, but seems to work fine. I won't know until I get my dev boards though - but I can't see there being any issues. Anyway let us know how you get on and if you run into any problems.

Also on your board - I can't see the reset pin, Ive been working all day so am a bit tired (so probably missed it), but I think that needs to be there for flashing the bootloader.

 

[Deleted User]

The testpads are now on the top layer, even with the same board size :-)

Once the board is done, tested and working, I'll put all the files online and make probably a tutorial (order the pcb, putting bootloader and arduino code on it ...)

Looks great! Small, only has the needed components, and still gives full access to all points for different install preferences

https://mobile.twitter.com/Aboshi2011/status/1019280486764548097 pre orders starting today hopefully! 4 wire install with auto RCM

And then there's this, which is basically a trinket M0 but only capable of the 4 wire autorcm mode nope nope nope.

 

[Soluble]

Looks great! Small, only has the needed components, and still gives full access to all points for different install preferences



And then there's this, which is basically a trinket M0 but only capable of the 4 wire autorcm mode nope nope nope.

No, he said that's the best option with the 4 wire install but there are other install methods/options

 

[Deleted User]

No, he said that's the best option with the 4 wire install but there are other install methods/options

The 4 wire auto rcm is best option, or you have to run 4 wire hold volume+ and have a modded joycon or rail slider to bridge pins.

I mean it's made to be more accessible to install, but replacing or even competing with the work our fine gbatemp members have done so far via open source isn't happening @frep 's design can be as easy or hard to install as you want it to be and still be a small design.

 

[Crazywhitie]

https://mobile.twitter.com/Aboshi2011/status/1019280486764548097 pre orders starting today hopefully! 4 wire install with auto RCM

AutoRcm is a waste to me . My opinion.. I love option to switch between ofw an cfw

 

[1219chicho]

i would clean up all the flux using ipa and a soft toothbrush then test the small cap again, some caps do act in the manner you say but from your image as it is with all the left over flux or whatever it is you used it looks like the missing cap has a bridge,but that could just be fluff from the cotton bud/qtip.

Hey M-O-B i removed the tiny things next to the resistors which are numbered 13 and ON when i was removing the usb port will that be a problem?

 

[Soluble]

AutoRcm is a waste to me . My opinion.. I love option to switch between ofw an cfw

Depends on what you're looking for, auto boot into CFW or hold vol+ and boot OFW. Depending on how he prices them I will probably just get one. I've held off on the trinket to see what everyone comes up with

 

[Deleted User]

Hey M-O-B i removed the tiny things next to the resistors which are numbered 13 and ON when i was removing the usb port will that be a problem?

Nope just leds the 13 is a red one that only comes on in boot loader mode and the on one is a green one we usually disable anyways to stop it from being on 24/7.

 

[frep]

@frep,

Thanks for posting the other side, I want to check the circuit - but I am sure you already did. I wish you luck on flashing the bootloader - are you going to flash the Zero or the trinket bootloader? Personally I would flash the zero as it has more pins enabled. I've already downloaded/compiled the software for the PI(2), it takes about 15 minutes, but seems to work fine. I won't know until I get my dev boards though - but I can't see there being any issues. Anyway let us know how you get on and if you run into any problems.

Also on your board - I can't see the reset pin, Ive been working all day so am a bit tired (so probably missed it), but I think that needs to be there for flashing the bootloader.

Hey MrDude!
I didn‘t thought about the bootloader version yet. But as you proposed, it makes sense to pick the m0 version.
The Reset pin is labled as Vol-. Maybe labeling it like Rst/V- would make things more clear! I think, I will change that!

 

[M-O-B]

all these methods or different chips now can only be a good thing.

i aint a fan of auto rcm the 5 wire method i'd rather have than a 4 wire plus auto rcm.

Looks great! Small, only has the needed components, and still gives full access to all points for different install preferences


And then there's this, which is basically a trinket M0 but only capable of the 4 wire autorcm mode nope nope nope.

could use these tiny pads and do same install as the trinket.

Hey MrDude!
I didn‘t thought about the bootloader version yet. But as you proposed, it makes sense to pick the m0 version.
The Reset pin is labled as Vol-. Maybe labeling it like Rst/V- would make things more clear! I think, I will change that!

RST/V- would cover it.

 

[Soluble]

all these methods or different chips now can only be a good thing.

i aint a fan of auto rcm the 5 wire method i'd rather have than a 4 wire plus auto rcm.



could use these tiny pads and do same install as the trinket.

View attachment 136156



RST/V- would cover it.

I think that's what they were aiming for. Minimum wires to function, but also have the option for the additional wires depending on preferred method of install. Hopefully he can land it at a price cheaper than the trinket and then we have a near perfect solution!

 

[M-O-B]

I think that's what they were aiming for. Minimum wires to function, but also have the option for the additional wires depending on preferred method of install. Hopefully he can land it at a price cheaper than the trinket and then we have a near perfect solution!

£8 including vat for the trinket aint a bad price, but people just want things for next to nothing these days.

cheapest way is to buy more than you need, sell the ones you aint going to use then the sale of the spare ones covers the cost of the one you want to use. you have yourself a free install or dongle.

 

[Xandroz]

ill be getting my trinket in 2 days, upon reading the 3 methods i have a question.

what is the beat route to go with if i already have sx os, and i want to lets say volume up to boot sx os and normal power to stock.

i wont be using auto rcm and will solder to thr joycon itself.

but from what im seeing from method 1 and method 3 is where is the point 4 in method 3 and why wast it used.

thanks again for your help

 

[M-O-B]

ill be getting my trinket in 2 days, upon reading the 3 methods i have a question.

what is the beat route to go with if i already have sx os, and i want to lets say volume up to boot sx os and normal power to stock.

i wont be using auto rcm and will solder to thr joycon itself.

but from what im seeing from method 1 and method 3 is where is the point 4 in method 3 and why wast it used.

thanks again for your help

you don't have to use pad 4 at all, it depends on the individual.

just install method 3 using the cap point or bat point on mobo for power wire.

rst pad to power button pad.

then just press power button for ofw or vol+ & power for cfw.

pad 3 to joycon point.

solder pad 0 to the vol+ point if you don't want to keep pressing the vol+ to get into rcm mode.

you can have so many method for the install. it's just what's best for you.

 

[Xandroz]

you don't have to use pad 4 at all, it depends on the individual.

just install method 3 using the cap point or bat point on mobo for power wire.

rst pad to power button pad.

then just press power button for ofw or vol+ & power for cfw.

pad 3 to joycon point.

solder pad 0 to the vol+ point if you don't want to keep pressing the vol+ to get into rcm mode.

you can have so many method for the install. it's just what's best for you.

so if im looking for the power on for ofw and power plus volume, i must install the rst to the power button right.


so insteD of usin pad 4 i use the rst in method 2.


but what i am looking for as i mentioned is the ease of use later not the install method.

do i get both if used method 1/2

what i understand is 3 is best for 4 wires install with auto rcm, which i wont be using.

method 2 to press power button twice to get to bootloader, but does volume up and power get me to cfw.

and method 1 is the tradtional one.

im just lost between them