Or buy from WaveShare directly. I was looking at their site and it might be cheaper from what I've seen on Ali with slowest shipping. I might just do that next time.
Picofly AIO Thread
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Sorry i just realised you are talking about the rp2040 tiny and i was talking about rp2040 zero.
That would be a great ideea but i dont know if its ok with forum policy. But it would help a lot since sometimes you can order wrong parts, or parts that just dont work . And it would save a lot of time since it takes forever for shipments to arrive to us.
Hey RedFawkes,
I posted in the other picofly thread about the tiny clones...
I haven't found a solution for why the led doesn't light up. Have tried swapping the led and the chip next to the voltage regulator from a zero with no difference.
What I've been doing is initially flashing to v2.67 to get the led back. Then once confirmed the install is good, update via pico toolbox to v2.75.
Just realised these are available from The Pi Hut here in the UK
A little more expensive than Ali but without the gamble or agonising delivery times.
Thanks to that one bad seller I can now delete the AliExpress app off my phone
Since you have access to the clones and a real tiny, have you checked for any differences? Perhaps a resistor is a different value? Based on my testing with fw 2.67, it may be something in the firmware. Jkyoho suggested testing the resistor connected to the led but I found it was the same 10k as the zeros. I'm sure my zeros from the same seller are also clones but the led is fine with the latest firmwares.
Last edited by karatefeet,
Actually I only have the clones right now but I can tell you that they do look a bit sloppy compared to the originals.
There's factory flux visible in some areas. I've swapped out 2x47ohm resistors for 100ohm ones (see one of my recent posts) and when looking through the microscope I thought that the quality of the solder points didn't really look that fantastic.
Now that I've realised these are clones I understand why.
I'm not too bothered really. There's not a lot that the clone manufacturer needs to do to get this board functional. The board layout is simple with only a handful of components.
Hello darkness my old friend. I am going to retell the story in case you all missed it.
V2,picofly zero,front mount mosfet,0.1 enammeled,HOS 16.1,low voltage implementation.
ACCIDENTALLY I REMOVED THE RST RESISTOR. It went to Narnia. Asked around, got the green for replacing it with a 5k/4.9k (idk my multimeter is shit) resistor stolen from a picofly . Tested for 1h OFW+CFW and declared it as working.
Next day,console starts freezing randomly (CFW),then go to black screen (backlight+fan still on) . It would come back to life once it got a hard reset (aka holding power for 12second aka rebooting).
OFW also started acting funny. First it was stuck on second nintendo switch logo, then it started giving me this error:
{{ Im going to create a biast here but i also might be talking nonsense. When i was tryng to replicate the problems again aka , crash or whatever the f* it was doing, i left it on in CFW for 2h. Nothing. Then i started turning it on and off in OFW, then loading games in CFW etc. It got stuck in a loading screen (zelda bot CFW). Rebooted it and after that it was working for hours again. Then i left it to charge, after that instantly it started acting up again. }}
So i did what any clueless individual would do. Systematically trying to narrow it down:
1.Replaced the SD card, with new files and a clean software installation. That was not it.
2.Since it was my first time doing the low voltage implementation, i started with that "just to be sure". Removed the connections and wires. That was not the problem.
3. Desoldered the 4.9/5k ohm RST resistor, bought a donor V1 board, and replaced the v2's RST resistor with a working 4.7k resistor from V1.
Cleaned everything and was thrilled to see OFW booting and working (i only tested for 1 minute). Then i turned it off and on into OFW again just to reassure that its fixed.
Second time i got error
Turned it off, tryed again. Third time it gave me this error
Turned it off, tryed again. Fourth time, i dont even get a Nintendo Switch logo anymore. It just goes to a black screen.
Also sometimes the errors i was getting on picofly always *=* No eMMC block 0 read (eMMC init failure?).
From what i can assume with my little knowledge and skimming some posts , its either dat0 OR THE MORE LIKELY scenario, the EMMC is corrupted? Now i assume that rebuilding the emmc is not going to be a problem but at the same time id like to check back with you guys if PERHAPS the cause for this is phisical.
Do keep in mind, all this time i am able to boot heckate no problems, and CFW (but as mentioned, sometimes CFW freezes).
I have checked RST,CMD,CLK,DAT0 with multimeter. All normal values ( 94 ohm from Dat0 to Dat0). And they also have solid connection on nintendo motherboard. Also checked to see if CMD,CLK,Dat0 are shorting between themselves. It doesnt look like it (840-850 ohm resistance between for example Dat0 from picofly before resistors, and CMD on motherboard).
I also checked the caps on the emmc . They dont seem to be shorted to ground.
I also checked the RST resistor connection and everything is allright. + the resistor is NOT shorted. to itself
Update1: ughhhhhh...After an insane number of hours on forums,checking old posts, checking cmd, clk, dat0,leaning a LOT about this console diagrams,and how it behaves,triple checking that i did not short anything, or cut traces or god knows what. I just decided to give it a hail mary and remove the chip maybe JUST MAYBE the console is salvageable.
TURNS OUT IT WAS THE F* PICOFLY. This picofly is from the same order as another one that had legs bridged on rp2040. This one doesnt i checked .
The console works without the chip. Im just going to try another chip i guess.
V2,picofly zero,front mount mosfet,0.1 enammeled,HOS 16.1,low voltage implementation.
ACCIDENTALLY I REMOVED THE RST RESISTOR. It went to Narnia. Asked around, got the green for replacing it with a 5k/4.9k (idk my multimeter is shit) resistor stolen from a picofly . Tested for 1h OFW+CFW and declared it as working.
Next day,console starts freezing randomly (CFW),then go to black screen (backlight+fan still on) . It would come back to life once it got a hard reset (aka holding power for 12second aka rebooting).
OFW also started acting funny. First it was stuck on second nintendo switch logo, then it started giving me this error:
{{ Im going to create a biast here but i also might be talking nonsense. When i was tryng to replicate the problems again aka , crash or whatever the f* it was doing, i left it on in CFW for 2h. Nothing. Then i started turning it on and off in OFW, then loading games in CFW etc. It got stuck in a loading screen (zelda bot CFW). Rebooted it and after that it was working for hours again. Then i left it to charge, after that instantly it started acting up again. }}
So i did what any clueless individual would do. Systematically trying to narrow it down:
1.Replaced the SD card, with new files and a clean software installation. That was not it.
2.Since it was my first time doing the low voltage implementation, i started with that "just to be sure". Removed the connections and wires. That was not the problem.
3. Desoldered the 4.9/5k ohm RST resistor, bought a donor V1 board, and replaced the v2's RST resistor with a working 4.7k resistor from V1.
Cleaned everything and was thrilled to see OFW booting and working (i only tested for 1 minute). Then i turned it off and on into OFW again just to reassure that its fixed.
Second time i got error
Turned it off, tryed again. Third time it gave me this error
Turned it off, tryed again. Fourth time, i dont even get a Nintendo Switch logo anymore. It just goes to a black screen.
Also sometimes the errors i was getting on picofly always *=* No eMMC block 0 read (eMMC init failure?).
From what i can assume with my little knowledge and skimming some posts , its either dat0 OR THE MORE LIKELY scenario, the EMMC is corrupted? Now i assume that rebuilding the emmc is not going to be a problem but at the same time id like to check back with you guys if PERHAPS the cause for this is phisical.
Do keep in mind, all this time i am able to boot heckate no problems, and CFW (but as mentioned, sometimes CFW freezes).
I have checked RST,CMD,CLK,DAT0 with multimeter. All normal values ( 94 ohm from Dat0 to Dat0). And they also have solid connection on nintendo motherboard. Also checked to see if CMD,CLK,Dat0 are shorting between themselves. It doesnt look like it (840-850 ohm resistance between for example Dat0 from picofly before resistors, and CMD on motherboard).
I also checked the caps on the emmc . They dont seem to be shorted to ground.
I also checked the RST resistor connection and everything is allright. + the resistor is NOT shorted. to itself
Update1: ughhhhhh...After an insane number of hours on forums,checking old posts, checking cmd, clk, dat0,leaning a LOT about this console diagrams,and how it behaves,triple checking that i did not short anything, or cut traces or god knows what. I just decided to give it a hail mary and remove the chip maybe JUST MAYBE the console is salvageable.
TURNS OUT IT WAS THE F* PICOFLY. This picofly is from the same order as another one that had legs bridged on rp2040. This one doesnt i checked .
The console works without the chip. Im just going to try another chip i guess.
Last edited by Crung,
Update2: I guess you can call me John Snow because i know nothing. Went ahead and installed another chip, NEW WIRING,FRESH CONNECTIONS. I get the same error XD *=* No eMMC block 0 read (eMMC init failure?) .
At this point i believe this console is cursed. But i know that things like that dont exist and there is a reason for everything ,only i have no ideea what that is. I focused and did my best work on this console modding it. Tested every connection and il looks good i have continuity(and all the resistor right values) from pico to motherboard. I also used thicker wires on mosfet to cap (rather than 0.1 ,what i was using before) and still same result. I also visual checked+physical checked the rp2040 chip connections to the daughter board and everything looks ok and solid.
I feel humbled and defeated. Maybe the experienced modders can tell me what is going on or maybe you can spot something wrong.
Sorry for picture quality . My camera hates flux , and i dont want to clean it yet until i fix this problem.
At this point i believe this console is cursed. But i know that things like that dont exist and there is a reason for everything ,only i have no ideea what that is. I focused and did my best work on this console modding it. Tested every connection and il looks good i have continuity(and all the resistor right values) from pico to motherboard. I also used thicker wires on mosfet to cap (rather than 0.1 ,what i was using before) and still same result. I also visual checked+physical checked the rp2040 chip connections to the daughter board and everything looks ok and solid.
I feel humbled and defeated. Maybe the experienced modders can tell me what is going on or maybe you can spot something wrong.
Sorry for picture quality . My camera hates flux , and i dont want to clean it yet until i fix this problem.
Last edited by Crung,
Doesn't want to clean the board so people maybe can see everything better.
But he wants people to spot the issue with low quality pics so he can get the issue resolved.......
Clean the damn flux and upload better pictures.
Specially pictures where u can see the soldering properly and where your wires go if u want proper help
Maybe you can try to move all wires on to emmc points.
Attachments
Dat0 : picofly PIN->2xresistor->dat0 mother board = 94 ohm reading in continuity mode.
CMD: picofly PIN->2xresistor->cmd mother board = 94 ohm reading in continuity mode.
CLK: picofly PIN->resistor->clk mother board = 47 ohm reading in continuity mode.
RST ; picofly PIN - RST POINT 0 ohm resistance
My flux is really bad,i can barely clean it without damaging the soldering/wire. In photos,i have DAT0 and CMD resistors lifted off the picofly board. I did this AFTER i got the errors thinking that i might have a short on picofly to some acces points. That was not the case. Also i did not use flux anymore when i lifted them, that is why the soldering is oxidized.
Use lots of IPA and a fine brush to clean everything. Flux could create issues on signal quality, especially for RST which is quite sensitive as already told by rehius. Use UV solder mask to fix the cables, this way they won't "fly away" when cleaning.
Upload some pictures of those MOSFETs as well.
Upload some pictures of those MOSFETs as well.
I agree.That is what i do (clean flux really good and use uv mask)once i make sure everything works. But right now this console is not working.
I have 1 single mosfet mounted on the front of board.
I already have the mosfet in uv mask and i am too tired right now to work on it (im 26h no sleep) .However i believe that the problem is not with the mosfet ,since my problem is on the emmc side ,and not about draining the power from apu.
And i dont think RST is the culprit since RST resets the cpu over and over again until it hits the right spot (if i am wrong ,correct me)
My code is *=* No eMMC block 0 read (eMMC init failure?)
Post automatically merged:
It is very wierd.The console works without problems without the chip installed. So i can safely assume there is no problem with console aka broken traces,bad apu,bad emmc,corrupted emmc.
So the only safe assumption is either picofly , picofly software, mosfet,wires,connections
-I thought the problem was with picofly.BUT i replaced the picofly and same problem.
I took the old picofly (i also had same error on it) and i tested the traces from GPIO pins to rp2040 and everything is connected.
-i can rule picofly software out since i am using the same file as for the other consoles.
-I think i can rule mosfet out, since i am using a known good mosfet (took it out of a flex, + i was able to boot heckate with it in the past)
-I am using same wire from same roll.
-Connections are good,everything checks out with multimeter
Do keep in mind, this console was booting heckate,AND EVEN OFW for a while. Then stopped booting OFW,throwing emmc errors (on the console,and on picofly).
I also had problems with CFW freezing. Why would CFW freeze in case the problem was with emmc?
This was happening with 5k resistor on RST instead of 4.7k.
Then i was able to replace 5k , back with 4.7k. Then it stopped booting heckate,or picofly screen.
I know you could be tempted to blame it , and so was i. BUT resistor is properly connected. Has NO short to itself OR CMD resistor. Without the emmc , the resistance value is proper 4.7k ohms. I also tested that it has continuity by probing on 1v line that its connected to, and RST solder point. All is normal. + The console works without the chip sooo what the hell is going on. Like ithe only different thing from other modded consoles is the resistor swap. But now its back to 4.7k. So i should not be getting these problems. It makes no sense.
Maybe the resistor swap shorted a fuse/resistor on emmc , but i tested the caps and resistors for shorts to ground and i have nothing like that from what i remember. Also if that was the case it should not be able to boot without the chip
I am telling you guys this console is Bermuda Triangle
Last edited by Crung,
If your flux is so bad that u can barely clean it without ripping off pads , what flux are u using?
Cause ur flux might also be the issue here.
Set ur dmm in continuity mode and stick it in the flux and see if u get a reading if so the issue here is probably the flux.
In that case ur gonna have to clean the whole board properly.
Since u have 2 resistors on DAT an cmd have u tried with 1 some boards don't work with 100/94ohm
Sorry i was joking about riping off pads. I use a cheap amtech clone . That s what i could get in my town and yeah. What i meant about the flux is that its hard to get off,even with ipa and cotton swabs, the board doesnt look "clean" as it would be from factory to say so. And no, its not conductive,otherwise i would get a short on the points i am getting my 3.3 V a long time ago+ i tested just now and its not.
Also i have tryed already with 1 resistor on lines.
Did you check for continuity between DATA and power wires on Pico and testpoints on eMMC's PCB?
Yep. Looks good to me. Tested continuity BETWEEN dat0,cmd,clk,cpu,rst. Nothing is shorting.
Tested picofly->emmc test points, i get the right values aka 94 94 47
As for the data lines(dat0,cmd so on and so forth)nothing is shorting either ground or power. data lines to ground are 500 wich looks ok to me, and data lines to 3.3v is 900 wich again looks ok to me
Post automatically merged:
At this point i would have preffered the board to catch on fire because then i would ve known that i shorted something. Unfortunately im stuck here in Limbo with a perfectly working switch that i am unable to mod
Last edited by Crung,
@Crung I was referring to something like this (STHETIX's HWFLY diagram for reference). So, one probe on RP2040 (before the resistor) and another one directly on eMMC's PCB, you should get close to 0 Ohm resistance. This way you can confirm that your wires are well connected to the OTHER test points which are on Switch's PCB.
Do you have a 3rd RP2040 board to try on? I had some weird behaviour with clones in the past, been ordering directly from Waveshare since.
Do you have a 3rd RP2040 board to try on? I had some weird behaviour with clones in the past, been ordering directly from Waveshare since.
Yes, i have done exactly that.What i meant by emmc test points is what you call emmc pcb. It kind of does not matter if i tested before or after resistor. I have continuity. On picofly pin, its 94. on the end of resistors its 0.
I do have other boards but i doubt that if i keep swapping , its going to fix something. I will try again tomorrow with another board i guess. Right now im going to sleep
Are you 100% sure those are 47ohm resistors? They appear to be labelled 470.
I don't have my microscope set up right now to check mine but I'm sure they would usually read 47R no?
Maybe I'm miss-remembering how the label codes work.
You mentioned that you measured them in continuity mode but I assumed that you meant resistance mode. Maybe double check this
Edit: See attached (from the install pdf)
I don't have my microscope set up right now to check mine but I'm sure they would usually read 47R no?
Maybe I'm miss-remembering how the label codes work.
You mentioned that you measured them in continuity mode but I assumed that you meant resistance mode. Maybe double check this
Edit: See attached (from the install pdf)
Attachments
Last edited by RedFawkes,
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