Picofly AIO Thread

[chronoss]

anyone using v1 on v2/lite .? sprti ny easier?

I use a mod for v2 and it work well but not tested on v1

 

[QuiTim]

I join the question, i installed the rp2040 zero in a mariko v2 and works fine but the rp is too thick to close the console correctly without cutting the metal shell because is too thick, so in the near future i will replace for a thinner one, i was thinking in that picoboard you showed and in the tiny rp that i attach in the photo, anyone knows the pros and cons of each one ?

The RP2040-Tiny in the photo should be great for this installation. It has a very low profile, all the components on one side, a separate USB C port that connects through a low profile connector, and integrated resistors for dat0, cmd and clk.
The thing is that they rushed the production and they messed up the resistor values so now they recalled everything and they are making necessary changes.

 

[chronoss]

The RP2040-Tiny in the photo should be great for this installation. It has a very low profile, all the components on one side, a separate USB C port that connects through a low profile connector, and integrated resistoes forr dat0, cmd and clk.
The thing is that they rushed the production and the messed up the resistor values so now they recalled everything and they are making necessary changes.

So, not good to use for now ?

 

[QuiTim]

So, not good to use for now ?

No, they do work. You just need to remove those 3 resistors that are soldered on the board, bridge those connections and then add 47r resistors to dat0, clk and cmd manually (as we are doing now).
The thing is that currently you can't order any untill the new batch is manufactured but if you can get your hands on one go ahead and use it.

 

[aparitxi]

If you plan to replace that rp board anyway then just remove/destroy the usb c port and 2 buttons then just place it bellow the fan and secure it using some double tape, it should fit. And for the mod cable itself you can slide it in between the metal and the fan case.

I did that, but without usb and buttons the rp is still very thick to put without making some strenght and bending a bit the metal shell to close the console, the thing is the tiny rp only has components in one face and that makes much more thinner, but i dont know if tiny rp would be a better option than the picoboard. By the way i put a photo of my instalation

 

[ll3macorn]

does this support v1 unpatched consoles?

 

[QuiTim]

I did that, but without usb and buttons the rp is still very thick to put without making some strenght and bending a bit the metal shell to close the console, the thing is the tiny rp only has components in one face and that makes much more thinner, but i dont know if tiny rp would be a better option than the picoboard. By the way i put a photo of my instalation

Remove the voltage regulator as well if you dont plan to plug it in the PC anymore. It will give you some more clearance

Post automatically merged: May 17, 2023

does this support v1 unpatched consoles?

Yes. It supports all consoles (until now)

 

[cgtchy0412]

I did that, but without usb and buttons the rp is still very thick to put without making some strenght and bending a bit the metal shell to close the console, the thing is the tiny rp only has components in one face and that makes much more thinner, but i dont know if tiny rp would be a better option than the picoboard. By the way i put a photo of my instalation

Hahaha.. just insert/pass the rp board from the bottom metal shell goes through fan hole , then after rp on outside you just close the metal shell.. so the final result is the rp board will be outside of the metal shell and directly sit bellow the fan, after that you close the switch case as ussual

 

[MegaDeKay]

I think what @MegaDeKay is saying (if I understand correctly) is that if we do not "hijack" the curent between the capacitor and APU we will not be able to make APU glitch because the capacitor will compensate the "delay" that mosfets are trying to create by shortening the D and S.
So basically doing this mosfet "trick" anywhere alse except between Caps and APU will be pointless.

Pretty close, though the capacitors aren't compensating for delay. The capacitors store charge very close to the APU and are used because the power supplied by the regulator further away can't get to the chip instantaneously (for various reasons). Decoupling capacitors are always as close as possible to the chip they are supporting.

The power used by the APU is "spiky" if you were able to look at it in very short timescales and if there is not sufficient power available instantaneously to the chip, the voltage droops. When the voltage droops deep enough and long enough, the chip's behavior becomes erratic, and it is this erratic behavior that the PicoFly takes advantage of.

If the short happens farther away, those capacitors might still be able to do their job if the glitch times are very short. But they only store a small amount of current so changing the timing and duration of the glitch (which you can't do because you don't have the source code) could perhaps compensate but I think the farther you are away, the less predictable things get. And if you are having to glitch for longer, you're putting more stress on the regulator as well.

Remember that the hack is rather sensitve. There is not much margin to change the resistor values, you can't use too thin a wire from the mosfets to the capacitors, etc. Even failing to clean the flux might cause the hack to fail. The odds of being able to change the hardware approach without changing the software has a pretty small chance of success.

 

[QuiTim]

Pretty close, though the capacitors aren't compensating for delay. The capacitors store charge very close to the APU and are used because the power supplied by the regulator further away can't get to the chip instantaneously (for various reasons). Decoupling capacitors are always as close as possible to the chip they are supporting.

The power used by the APU is "spiky" if you were able to look at it in very short timescales and if there is not sufficient power available instantaneously to the chip, the voltage droops. When the voltage droops deep enough and long enough, the chip's behavior becomes erratic, and it is this erratic behavior that the PicoFly takes advantage of.

If the short happens farther away, those capacitors might still be able to do their job if the glitch times are very short. But they only store a small amount of current so changing the timing and duration of the glitch (which you can't do because you don't have the source code) could perhaps compensate but I think the farther you are away, the less predictable things get. And if you are having to glitch for longer, you're putting more stress on the regulator as well.

Remember that the hack is rather sensitve. There is not much margin to change the resistor values, you can't use too thin a wire from the mosfets to the capacitors, etc. Even failing to clean the flux might cause the hack to fail. The odds of being able to change the hardware approach without changing the software has a pretty small chance of success.

Thank you for this detailed and clear explanation. it was very helpful and understandable

 

[Nephiel]

does this support v1 unpatched consoles?

But why? Those are vulnerable already.

 

[rehius]

But why? Those are vulnerable already.

modchip is more convenient. No need RCM jig, tools, worries. Once installed it just works, you can boot both OFW and CFW without any issues. Erista glitch reliability is perfect, boots within a second.

 

[linuxares]

Ironically the pico zero can be cheaper than a rcm kit.

 

[warquezho]

Hi, in the first page requirements, it says

• Mosfet (IRFHS8342 MOSFET) or cpu flex cable - I personally recommend - (lite flex for lites, v2 flex for v2 mariko etc etc)

If I want to buy/get an Oled version, is this the only cpu flex cable compatible? Or are there any cpu flex cable can be used?

 

[QuiTim]

Hi, in the first page requirements, it says

• Mosfet (IRFHS8342 MOSFET) or cpu flex cable - I personally recommend - (lite flex for lites, v2 flex for v2 mariko etc etc)

If I want to buy/get an Oled version, is this the only cpu flex cable compatible? Or are there any cpu flex cable can be used?

View attachment 371990

All flex cables that have this orientation of SP1 and SP2 points can be used.
(You can also use the other model, but it requires moding and I would advise against it in this stage)

 

[Nephiel]

Ironically the pico zero can be cheaper than a rcm kit.

Huh. Never looked at it that way... I guess, for those who have soldering skills and tools, but don't already have some other device (PC, Android...) to push the payload, I can see how the Pico would end up being cheaper.

 

[LogicalMadness]

All flex cables that have this orientation of SP1 and SP2 points can be used.
(You can also use the other model, but it requires moding and I would advise against it in this stage)

FKG SAINT! These REDUNDANT questions are driving me further into madness.

Is there a way I can get 'pinged' ONLY when @rehius replies to these threads? I need to stay up to date for my clients, but, fkg YIKES!

 

[BoomBoomShroom]

Hi, IDK if this has been asked (searched and can't find it) but I am having these issues, which occurred before the Picofly was installed. I have an OLED and my Game Cartridge reader doesn't work, so I decided to just mod it since the SD card reader works. Looks like it might have had more issues then I initially thought.

I have somewhat successfully installed the the Picofly, but when I installed it and checked my work I noticed that the point where you solder the reset to was reading 0v in diode mode (black to ground, red to point). Removed the cable and tried reading the point again and same thing. Don't know what this means. I repair switches for fun, V1 and V2, but never a OLED. Does anyone know what this means?

I also get the "Slow EMMC" error but I will try adding more resistors as suggested on this thread. IDK if this is also another underlying issue where the EMMC fails to initialize.

 

[QuiTim]

FKG SAINT! These REDUNDANT questions are driving me further into madness.

Is there a way I can get 'pinged' ONLY when @rehius replies to these threads? I need to stay up to date for my clients, but, fkg YIKES!

No man, I just have alot of free time these last couple of days and i'm on my phone alot so..... and I guess I feel a need to give something back for all fun I had doing these mods myself.
But, goddamn man you are right, i can only imagine the amount of eye rolling going on here
Whenever I see a thread related to my problem with so many pages I get super exited to read through it so i can find an answer and learn a bunch of new things along the way.
I mean whats the point of doing this yourself if you are not willing to learn something new and spend some time on it.
You might as well send it to a shop and get it over with.
The only ones that really get to me are "Nobody?!?!?!" ; "Why no answer yet?"
I mean, the audacity of some people...
Anyway....i have to get back to answering questions

 

[abal1000x]

modchip is more convenient. No need RCM jig, tools, worries. Once installed it just works, you can boot both OFW and CFW without any issues. Erista glitch reliability is perfect, boots within a second.

My glitch is okay on normal condition, is it okay if i also connected the i2c?
For a backup plan, if somehow the normal glitch doesn't work, it could switch into using the 2nd glitch.