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Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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What is the recommended wire size for apu mosfet?
I have tried irh8342 and aon6414a with 36awg wire but it's not working everytime I do mosfet install, the error is ==*
 
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any one know what value and what is this coil do or how to know if it fulty in the v1 the 3v3 is (1.xx v) value not 0.822 v that is not normal and sp1 sp2 0.34v is it normal i will replace coil first.
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new update i fix the nintendo switch oled ic 77801ewp replace from AliExpress . i ready mod it cfw.
 

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Does anyone know if you can rebuild a nand WITHOUT prod.keys but with the BISKEYS.bin and PRODINFO.bin found in the /atmosphere/automatic_backups folder? Googling is not giving me anything useful.
 
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RTXbothunter said:
does any one has this issues ?
i booted successfuly into hekate 5 fist times
i tried to boot hos with 2.61.uf2
backed emmc, created emunand then when after inject hekate 6 bringme up to this issue
i trieed to clean the picofly with flash_nuke.uf2 but not luck at all
View attachment 366602
Click to expand...
Cómo lo reparaste?
 
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Hi everyone,

I recently installed a Picofly modchip on my OLED Switch using the Kamikaze method. Everything went fine, and the console was working great for two days in both OFW and CFW.
View attachment 475488
View attachment 475487

Last night, I left the console installing some games using DBI, but this morning, I found an error on the screen: 2016-0641. Now, it won't recognize any microSD card, which means I can’t boot into CFW. It does boot into OFW, but the error still shows up.


What I’ve Tried So Far:​

  • Swapped the SD card reader with another one from a working console. Still the same error.
  • Tried several different microSD cards (formatted correctly). No luck.
  • Removed the Picofly modchip completely. Checked everything, and it looks fine, but the issue persists.



Any idea about something to check?
 
Jagovi said:
Last night, I left the console installing some games using DBI, but this morning, I found an error on the screen: 2016-0641. Now, it won't recognize any microSD card, which means I can’t boot into CFW. It does boot into OFW, but the error still shows up.
Any idea about something to check?
Click to expand...
Have you checked the female connector on the motherboard for bent/missing/loose pins?
Also no missing components or deep scratches?
 
I have nintendo switch oled whit rp2040 when i start the rp2040 blink in blue and orange and don't start did anyone have tgis problem
Post automatically merged:

I have a nintendo switch oled whit rp2040 picofly when i start he don't run and the rp2040 blink in bleu and orange
 
Jagovi said:
Hi everyone,

I recently installed a Picofly modchip on my OLED Switch using the Kamikaze method. Everything went fine, and the console was working great for two days in both OFW and CFW.
View attachment 475488
View attachment 475487

Last night, I left the console installing some games using DBI, but this morning, I found an error on the screen: 2016-0641. Now, it won't recognize any microSD card, which means I can’t boot into CFW. It does boot into OFW, but the error still shows up.


What I’ve Tried So Far:​

  • Swapped the SD card reader with another one from a working console. Still the same error.
  • Tried several different microSD cards (formatted correctly). No luck.
  • Removed the Picofly modchip completely. Checked everything, and it looks fine, but the issue persists.



Any idea about something to check?
Click to expand...

Clean the coppper debris of the kamikaze, it can make shorts on the connector
 
Hi, I'm modding a patched V1 switch, and it glitches fine (almost instantly even), but in hekate I get the "slow eMMC error" (see screenshots).

Diode readings are as follows:
DAT0: 468
CMD: 465
CLK: 468
RST: short
CPU: open? my multimeter indicates out of range I think

Could it be that I've burnt the resistor next to the RST point? Is it causing the slow eMMC error? If yes, what value is the resistor so that I can replace it.

I also burnt the points (the pads ripped off the component) on the back where you can optionally solder the MOSFET, but I think this is not really an issue.
PXL_20241215_162859968.jpg

PXL_20241215_162908350.jpg

PXL_20241215_163048669.jpg
 
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Have you already tried it with additional resistance, as described in the guide?
 

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MoeXzl said:
Have you already tried it with additional resistance, as described in the guide?
Click to expand...
Nope, I haven't. However I can't boot into OFW by holding vol + and - at the same time so I'm 99% sure it's because the RST line is being shorted to ground.
 
Hi everyone,

I just did my first Picofly mod on my OLED. The chip works just fine, but I noticed that the left joy-con is no longer being detected as connected by wire. It only connects using bluetooth now. The joy-con is shown as being charged when connected to the console though.

I rechecked the flex cable and even tried to generate some pressure inside the connector using kapton tape in case the flex cable connector is the problem, but the problem unfortunately remains.

The only damage I have been able to identify so far is a scratch on the pcb next to where I tried to remove the cpu shield (see the image below). To me it looks like the damaged location should not cause any problems as the trace seems to be next to it. I don't even know whether that area of traces is connected to the left joy-con.

I would be glad for any help or tips on how to further debug this issue. Because of the issue the console is basically unusable as a handheld right now.

Thanks a lot in advance!

1.png
2.jpeg
 
dibas said:
Hi everyone,

I just did my first Picofly mod on my OLED. The chip works just fine, but I noticed that the left joy-con is no longer being detected as connected by wire. It only connects using bluetooth now. The joy-con is shown as being charged when connected to the console though.

I rechecked the flex cable and even tried to generate some pressure inside the connector using kapton tape in case the flex cable connector is the problem, but the problem unfortunately remains.

The only damage I have been able to identify so far is a scratch on the pcb next to where I tried to remove the cpu shield (see the image below). To me it looks like the damaged location should not cause any problems as the trace seems to be next to it. I don't even know whether that area of traces is connected to the left joy-con.

I would be glad for any help or tips on how to further debug this issue. Because of the issue the console is basically unusable as a handheld right now.

Thanks a lot in advance!
Click to expand...

To me it looks as if you haven't even closed the flaps on these FPC connectors, possibly even more?

Disregard, I don't work with OLEDs, so I'm unfamiliar with those exact connectors.


OLEDJoycon.jpg
 
dibas said:
Hi everyone,

I just did my first Picofly mod on my OLED. The chip works just fine, but I noticed that the left joy-con is no longer being detected as connected by wire. It only connects using bluetooth now. The joy-con is shown as being charged when connected to the console though.

I rechecked the flex cable and even tried to generate some pressure inside the connector using kapton tape in case the flex cable connector is the problem, but the problem unfortunately remains.

The only damage I have been able to identify so far is a scratch on the pcb next to where I tried to remove the cpu shield (see the image below). To me it looks like the damaged location should not cause any problems as the trace seems to be next to it. I don't even know whether that area of traces is connected to the left joy-con.

I would be glad for any help or tips on how to further debug this issue. Because of the issue the console is basically unusable as a handheld right now.

Thanks a lot in advance!

View attachment 476171View attachment 476172
Click to expand...
Have a look at this post? https://x.com/sthetixofficial/status/1543420979426500608
 

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