Thanks rehius, I just saw your replay from yesterday. Never would have guessed what 3 and 4 meant in the guide
. There are numbers on the back of the XIAO boards next to the pins, so I just assumed the guide was wrongly pointing to overlapping pins.
. There are numbers on the back of the XIAO boards next to the pins, so I just assumed the guide was wrongly pointing to overlapping pins.
bullshit, the modchip glitches and boots to the picofly logo before any software from the switch itself is loaded.
I have one, this oled came today deadly after update the sysnand, chip rp2040, dont work, dont charge, dont boot. Just change for instinct, and boots again into hekate, but no boot ofw, when boot emunand a message appers and say something like that [the ofw doesnt match with efuses, but will be patched and sleep mode dont work], after press button, emunand works but when you put spleep mode the switch frezze, only thing u can do is presseing about 30 seconds power button and turn on again!!!!
Aww Crumbs, I did it again!
Different switch, this time. I managed to knock these off a V2 (the ones in the red box it's a picture I found online)
I didn't notice until I put it together and everything BUT the WIFI seems to be working.
Does anyone know the values? I believe they're 0201 caps.
Thanks Again,
Vic
P.s. Is there a list of trusted people who offer repairs? perhaps by location. These 0201s are at the limits of my tools/steady hands.
Different switch, this time. I managed to knock these off a V2 (the ones in the red box it's a picture I found online)
I didn't notice until I put it together and everything BUT the WIFI seems to be working.
Does anyone know the values? I believe they're 0201 caps.
Thanks Again,
Vic
P.s. Is there a list of trusted people who offer repairs? perhaps by location. These 0201s are at the limits of my tools/steady hands.
Attachments
u shouldve just replaced them with 100ohm that would be way easier .
now ur gonna have to cut the traces a bit back so u can set 2 resistor behind each other.....
These arrived yesterday so I had time to mess around with them.
First time didn't work so I spend more than 2 hours pondered my head just to realize the balls isn't giving enough height to touch the pads due to flex but in the end it worked. I still think this was a hassle because I added small resisters to the line.
So my idea now is to move these resisters to my other flex to add more friendly sized ones and perhaps use goldfinger that latches to my other flex.
First time didn't work so I spend more than 2 hours pondered my head just to realize the balls isn't giving enough height to touch the pads due to flex but in the end it worked. I still think this was a hassle because I added small resisters to the line.
So my idea now is to move these resisters to my other flex to add more friendly sized ones and perhaps use goldfinger that latches to my other flex.
Attachments
Black Screen with sd card or No SD with card
Hello, for testing I did not replace the ram but the nvidia soc so on the faulty motherboard I put an Nvidia soc which normally works.
Result: the switch works.
Conclusion: no fault on the motherboard, however the Nvidia SOC is dead!
So for me now it's simple, a good switch (work before install Picofly) which displays a black screen with the µSD and which displays No SD without the card this means that the SOC is dead.
Hello, for testing I did not replace the ram but the nvidia soc so on the faulty motherboard I put an Nvidia soc which normally works.
Result: the switch works.
Conclusion: no fault on the motherboard, however the Nvidia SOC is dead!
So for me now it's simple, a good switch (work before install Picofly) which displays a black screen with the µSD and which displays No SD without the card this means that the SOC is dead.
Last edited by ppzikos,
I will rewire the Flexcable with the 0,01mm wire i bought will arrive soon hopefully. So its fine i guess i will just use the 47 ohms resistor and solder it onto the the Pads... I think this will be better. Yes i could done this but i was too stupid to realize in the moment haha Thank you
So here is the thing XD. TLDR for people who are still new to my problem.
Knocked off RST resistor in the past,flew to narnia.Replaced with 5k resistor. Worked for a while,then i got freeze in CFW,and unable to boot OFW (stuck on logo/blackscreen after logo/2002-3539 error)+after a while was unable to glitch *=* error. Replaced the RST resistor with 4.7k as it was intended,worked for a while,then it went back to problems. Took cmd rst resistors off,resoldered them with paste and hot air, worked for a while,then problems again. Replaced emmc connector,no fix. Reballed EMMC,no fix (btw first time reballing on a "working" console, i nailed it).
Last time after a failed nand restore (stopped midway through,and gave slow emmc warning) i had NOTHING on the EMMC info window. Then the console would not even glitch *=* again. Did a reflow AGAIN on the CMD/RST resistors, now it works again :| AND I EVEN HAVE FULL INFO IN EMMC INFO . I am also able to boot into OFW. But i suspect this is not going to last long and i will have problems again. What the hell is going onnn? I tested continuity+resistance on CMD/RST and they behave like they are properly connected. I have correct resistance and continuity even after problems start to appear...
This is a picture. The white thing is solder mask. I am taking RST from emmc . I have problems with test pad RST,and emmc RST so we can rule it out. I isolated test pad rst because it was annoying to solder the wire there. Also RST resistor looks funny because i scratched the 1.8v line to have a better soldering spot when i was having trouble soldering on that place with soldering iron.
Last edited by Crung,
Leave clear picture for back mod reference.
From jlcpcb.
https://github.com/abal1000x/emmc_adapter/releases
Using flex from @Hassal is faster, since you paste only once.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10266456
Using adapter you paste twice, first the adapter, second the emmc.
Post automatically merged:
Your conclusion is weird.
The NO SD shown means the cpu is works, since the code is RUN by the cpu to show the NO SD graphics on the lcd. If the cpu dead, no code run at all. Totally off.
Have you tried to reball the cpu, maybe theres debris, or something happened.
I think modding the cap on the cpu is risky, rather mod the cap on the back pcb. Its safer route.
Last edited by abal1000x,
I only tested with PCBWay but you have to consider they charge a minimum fee so it doesn't matter if you fabricate 5-300 units they will charge you the same sum.
Setting:
2-Layers
Thickness is minimum offered (0.1mm)
Single or Panels up to you (I chose panels with set size 13X12 they ship in default size panels)
E-Test off
Everything else should be default
There is an adhesive layer which is optional covering only the upper portion of the adapter. The purpose of this layer is to prevent it from drifting during the reflow process. It will make your life much eaiser but you can totally ignore it and use your own method to hold it in place. If you leave this intact you need to choose Tesa tape Onesided BOT.
For resister sizes it's 0402. (0603 should also fit) (Imperial size)
One thing to keep note, if your ball height isn't enough you need another scoop of paste. It threw me off the first time because I was getting a reading on my adapter but in reality some weren't even touching.
Setting:
2-Layers
Thickness is minimum offered (0.1mm)
Single or Panels up to you (I chose panels with set size 13X12 they ship in default size panels)
E-Test off
Everything else should be default
There is an adhesive layer which is optional covering only the upper portion of the adapter. The purpose of this layer is to prevent it from drifting during the reflow process. It will make your life much eaiser but you can totally ignore it and use your own method to hold it in place. If you leave this intact you need to choose Tesa tape Onesided BOT.
For resister sizes it's 0402. (0603 should also fit) (Imperial size)
One thing to keep note, if your ball height isn't enough you need another scoop of paste. It threw me off the first time because I was getting a reading on my adapter but in reality some weren't even touching.
Last edited by Hassal,
i rework tegra on a good motherboard! , the result is same , no SD or black screen.
I exchanged the socs of 2 motherboards:
i have my (F) faulty switch > NOsd /black screen with sd card
and a (G) good working switch ( pico +hekate work etc...)
I put the (F) soc on the (G) motherboard and it doesn't work.
I put the (G) share on the (F) motherboard and it works!
I simply conclude : the soc is dead.
if you want to see how i work you can read this:
https://www.logic-sunrise.com/forum...error-during-lzma-decompressionswitch-hac-10/
The photos of the rework are mine but on another error on switch.
Last edited by ppzikos,
No its not drilled.
Its one of my ugly soldering
.Its big pad, and i am too lazy to increase the temperature accordingly.
Last edited by abal1000x,
This is useless ,
the motherboard which was working perfectly received the "No-sd" SOC and it does not work.
the motherboard which was not working received a "good working" SOC and it works.
this clearly indicates that:
1) SOC no-sd/blackscreen dont works on any motherboard
2) the "good working" SOC works on both motherboards.
SO:
3) the 2 motherboards are ok and capable of working with a good SOC
4) the SOC that makes no-SD / blackscreen is dead!
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