The current AIO guide has those wrong as pins 3 and 4.
The current AIO guide has those wrong as pins 3 and 4.
What about the new 17.0.0 firmware?
I've read that switch doesn't boot with picofly. No picofly logo.
OFW seems work.
Hwfly and instinct not tested yet.
What about the new 17.0.0 firmware?
I've read that switch doesn't boot with picofly. No picofly logo.
OFW seems work.
Hwfly and instinct not tested yet.
I have one, this oled came today deadly after update the sysnand, chip rp2040, dont work, dont charge, dont boot. Just change for instinct, and boots again into hekate, but no boot ofw, when boot emunand a message appers and say something like that [the ofw doesnt match with efuses, but will be patched and sleep mode dont work], after press button, emunand works but when you put spleep mode the switch frezze, only thing u can do is presseing about 30 seconds power button and turn on again!!!!
u shouldve just replaced them with 100ohm that would be way easier .Sorry i just wanted to sort things out because of the desaster last time with the Board. Thank you for your help man! Next time i will use a normal Pico Zero from Waveshare.
This time i have a Nand Backup BOOT1 and BOOT2 and Keys...
I started into hekate and this time no error with EMMC. I tried launching OFW But i got Nintendo Logo then Blackscreen i forced a shut down and started it again and got Nintendo Logo (no hekate) then off again and got a Bluescreen ... I nearly got an Heart attack.... I powered it down and started it up with no SD Card and got Picofly Logo. Then i removed both Flex Cables from the Pico and powered it back on and it started up normally... Puhhhh my heart fell. I thought i messed it up again. Now im waiting for the 47Ohms resistors i bought 0603 and 0805 just in case. But im not sure how to fit them onto the chip. i can see the traces but i need to cut off the trace after the first 47ohms one and solder mine inbetween its so tiny... Do i need the second 47 ohm capacitor because of the Samsung EMMC?
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My soldering doesn’t look that clean this time…
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That sounds like a plan.
I also planned on doing that, orders the stencil but it never arrived so I don't really bother with it anymore.
So let's see if that solves the issue
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They have been tested and work.
But why use those when u can just get a tiny that fits like it is.
And be done with it
I will rewire the Flexcable with the 0,01mm wire i bought will arrive soon hopefully. So its fine i guess i will just use the 47 ohms resistor and solder it onto the the Pads... I think this will be better. Yes i could done this but i was too stupid to realize in the moment haha Thank youu shouldve just replaced them with 100ohm that would be way easier .
now ur gonna have to cut the traces a bit back so u can set 2 resistor behind each other.....
So here is the thing XD. TLDR for people who are still new to my problem.Ok so. I checked picofly version and i was still on 2.73. I tryed several times more to update, and it finnaly worked.
After attempting to do a new NAND write from scratch with prodinfo, OFW was stuck on logo . So i did a NAND restore to my old NAND save (the one that i was getting 3539 error on ).
Now when trying to start OFW i get this screen
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Well.
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where did u order the pcbs from ?Leave clear picture for back mod reference.
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From jlcpcb.where did u order the pcbs from ?
did u release the files for the adapter?
Your conclusion is weird.Black Screen with sd card or No SD with card
Hello, for testing I did not replace the ram but the nvidia soc so on the faulty motherboard I put an Nvidia soc which normally works.
Result: the switch works.
Conclusion: no fault on the motherboard, however the Nvidia SOC is dead!
So for me now it's simple, a good switch (work before install Picofly) which displays a black screen with the µSD and which displays No SD without the card this means that the SOC is dead.
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Your conclusion is weird.
The NO SD shown means the cpu is works, since the code is RUN by the cpu to show the NO SD graphics on the lcd. If the cpu dead, no code run at all. Totally off.
Have you tried to reball the cpu, maybe theres debris, or something happened.
I think modding the cap on the cpu is risky, rather mod the cap on the back pcb. Its safer route.
I think your methodology is flawed because its prone to error. Did you return the SoC back to the original boards?i rework tegra on a good motherboard! , the result is same , no SD or black screen.
I exchanged the socs of 2 motherboards:
i have my (F) faulty switch > NOsd /black screen with sd card
and a (G) good working switch ( pico +hekate work etc...)
I put the (F) soc on the (G) motherboard and it doesn't work.
I put the (G) share on the (F) motherboard and it works!
I simply conclude : the soc is dead.
if you want to see how i work you can read this:
https://www.logic-sunrise.com/forum...error-during-lzma-decompressionswitch-hac-10/
The photos of the rework are mine but on another error on switch.
3.3v, is that drilled? Why not just get it from the big cap near p13?Leave clear picture for back mod reference.
View attachment 398837
No its not drilled.3.3v, is that drilled? Why not just get it from the big cap near p13?
I think your methodology is flawed because its prone to error. Did you return the SoC back to the original boards?