Hi all. Rp 2040 firmware 2.67 flashes blue for a long time, then lights up white/blue and red. On firmware 2.73 there is also a long indication with a reset and at the end it looks like =** (eMMC init failure during glitch process). I tried different Chips and added resistors, but it didn’t help. hynix memory. Tell me how to fix it. Switch lite is working fine, loading into stock.
Hi all. Rp 2040 firmware 2.67 flashes blue for a long time, then lights up white/blue and red. On firmware 2.73 there is also a long indication with a reset and at the end it looks like =** (eMMC init failure during glitch process). I tried different Chips and added resistors, but it didn’t help. hynix memory. Tell me how to fix it. Switch lite is working fine, loading into stock.
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Hi all. Rp 2040 firmware 2.67 flashes blue for a long time, then lights up white/blue and red. On firmware 2.73 there is also a long indication with a reset and at the end it looks like =** (eMMC init failure during glitch process). I tried different Chips and added resistors, but it didn’t help. hynix memory. Tell me how to fix it. Switch lite is working fine, loading into stock.
If you got =** while the switch could go to ofw (until goes inside the hos, not blackscreen), then its you're cmd/clk line is not solid. Need to check it.
So in simplicity, the firmware will sniff the cmd line, if there are no byte that showing its initialized, than throws that error. Since you could boot normally to ofw, then the emmc definitely initialized. So the picofly cannot sniff the cmd line. So the suspect is the cmd line which the firmware sniff on, or the clk line, where the firmware use to synchronize the pulse on the cmd line.
I'd like to thank @Dee87 for encouraging me to go non-adaptor. My very first reball-based OLED installation. Gotta say I'm pretty proud of this.
Thank you. The "power on" ribbon cable struggles to be put on and off with the fan being too close. It just became a habit to remove it during disassembly. I learned that from a great YouTuber I like to watch named Tvpartsworld.
If you insert the cable AS you're putting the MB down in the case (move screen\fan\controller ribbons out of the way) you can avoid the fan removal. Just 'another way'.
Thanks, how about my OLED installation without a dat0 adaptor? Pretty cool ha?
Hi @abal1000x ,
I've found an OLED which sometimes can glitch and sometimes cannot .. using an DAT0 adapter.. Continuity is good, but still throws dat0 error code.
Just want to know your opinion regarding bellow voltages and ranges test. Can we check it directly on the switch unit to know this specific unit values ? also how safe it will be if we modify these values in the firmware.
I've found an OLED which sometimes can glitch and sometimes cannot .. using an DAT0 adapter.. Continuity is good, but still throws dat0 error code.
Just want to know your opinion regarding bellow voltages and ranges test. Can we check it directly on the switch unit to know this specific unit values ? also how safe it will be if we modify these values in the firmware.
From datasheet:
Dat0 works on push-pull mode, means,
When theres no signal (high level) it should be between Voh to Vdd.
Theres two table i assume the emmc could use 2 mode of voltage.
Vccq = Vdd = 1.70 ~ 1.95
Table 30:
Vdat0 = 0.75Vdd ~ Vdd
= 1.275 ~ 1.95
Table 31:
Vdat0 = Vccq - 0.45 ~ Vdd
= 1.25 ~ 1.95
So based on the datasheet it should be around 1.25V to 1.95V.
Or using the code style it should be 1.6V +- 0,35V
You can, when its powered on. Its pulled up, so the low bit is high voltage.
Its safe if you know what you're doing.
Those fault detection is for safety.
For example if the dat0 is in the wrong voltage, then theres something wrong with the installation.
What if you switch the dat0 with the 3.3v for example.
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Logically speaking, the glitch is not affected directly by the dat0.
I assume,
The dat0 line is needed to inject (write) the loader to the emmc (the whitelight in the first time powered on).
And checked (read) that the loader is indeed in the emmc, everytime picofly powered on.
So if the 'white light on first installation' workings then the dat0 line is working.
But indeed the glitch operation use the CMD line to compare data, to check whether the glitch works or not. Or to get the time reference of when the glitch will be executed. So the CMD line is very important on the glitch (Also the CLK line to sync the signal).
But remember that CMD/CLK/Dat0 is in one package of emmc. So it doesn't remove the possibility that wrongdoing in Dat0 might interfere the CMD line. For the its illogical, and have a lesser probability.
If glitch problematic, the number one suspect is mosfet and the gate line, second is the cmd/clk line.
Last edited by abal1000x,
Did someone know how i can get my biskeys over IRAM ?
CFW (Hekate) = Blackscreen and OFW = Bluescreen.
Ums-loader via IRAM = Works (and I can also dump Nand.)
Firmware 2.75 maybe fix this issue too:
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Not sure if this is the right place to ask - but do you guys know where I can find a trusted modchip installer for the OLED Switch in the UK?
Thanks
Thanks
As a bit of background, I directed him here, since I believe this thread has the most skilled people that can help him. Cheers!
About your issue.
Since you could goes to hekate, then i think the dram connection should be okay.
I remember someone whose dram trace got disconnected, cannot even goes to hekate.
Have you tried to reball the emmc, or use the permanent method?
If you are not confident, dont do it.
Reball, indeed need basic skill and appropriate tool to safely executed.
Question on reballing the eMMC, what temps and air settings are you guys using? I've been using 380 @ 50% and go nice and slow. I've heard the eMMC can be damaged by heat so didn't want to go too hot.
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