same here, if I just try to do it blindly (by intuition) I would chose the 4th pin.I wonder what is the science behind these phenomenon.
Its taking the conscious mind to choose the 4th pin than the 3rd pin.
Even i didn't realize at first, until someone point it out.
My mind also choose the 4th pin.
It's like the default setting in the brain is 4th pin....interesting indeed.
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Did you take CLK from the emmc as well? Did it work?but the worst part is that I have the diagrams in front of my eyesand it's not my first console. something crazy
Glad to see I'm not the only oneThanks mate, damn I have shit in my eyes. I wanted to innovate and finally I did shit on some crazy thing
It's better this way
Howdy y'all.
I seem to have broke something when installing my picofly on my V1 switch. It happened when taking off the heat cover.
Sorry, I know it's not the best picture. I took this before I tried re-attaching it. - I ended up losing it after multiple failed attempts to re-attach.
What is the part & Does anyone have any suggestions on how to re-attach it? It's so small it kept wanting to stick to the iron when I lifted it.
Thanks
I seem to have broke something when installing my picofly on my V1 switch. It happened when taking off the heat cover.
Sorry, I know it's not the best picture. I took this before I tried re-attaching it. - I ended up losing it after multiple failed attempts to re-attach.
What is the part & Does anyone have any suggestions on how to re-attach it? It's so small it kept wanting to stick to the iron when I lifted it.
Thanks
Those are used for Wifi/BT I think.
You need a fine tip iron (0.1mm) and some fine tweezers to work with components that size.
Remove the cap, clean the area with flux and wick, add some fresh solder to the pads (preferably low melt) then hold the new capacitors in place and solder them in place with iron.
You can also use solder paste and hot air station but I will assume you don't have those.
Good luck
P.S. and are you sure you should be doing this kind of work at 98yrs old
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lol, I hit the wrong year & can't change it. Thanks. I need to figure out what the part is so I can get another.Those are used for Wifi/BT I think.
You need a fine tip iron (0.1mm) and some fine tweezers to work with components that size.
Remove the cap, clean the area with flux and wick, add some fresh solder to the pads (preferably low melt) then hold the new capacitors in place and solder them in place with iron.
You can also use solder paste and hot air station but I will assume you don't have those.
Good luck
P.S. and are you sure you should be doing this kind of work at 98yrs old
You have it in the picture, it's a capacitor 0.1uF 10V size 0201
As QuiTim has pointed out, it's in the image he provided. If you are unsure on a source for them, the guide can direct you to some that are removable from rp2040-Zero's and rp2040-One's
Having an issue flashing the latest batch of RP Tiny that I just got. Have tried 3 out of the 5 and none are flashing. Both my programmer and chip are v1.1. Doing the same procedure as the previous ones I've flashed - hold boot, connect the usb. I get a red light on the programmer which I can't remember if it's normal. Drag the fw file over and nothing, led on the Tiny doesn't do anything. I tried connecting 5v / 3.3v and ground to the Tiny and the led doesn't light up.
Anyone having this problem? All my RP2040 chips (zero and tiny) have been from this same seller with zero issues so I'm very confused.
Anyone having this problem? All my RP2040 chips (zero and tiny) have been from this same seller with zero issues so I'm very confused.
Last edited by karatefeet,
Ok I tried a usb2 port and still not flashing. The new batch has a bigger connector compared to the first ones I used.
Wonder if something changed. Tried all 5 and none flash. I did see a reviewer saying they got some that won't flash. Guess I'll contact the seller.
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Hi everyone. Just found a recent video of rp2040 tiny installation into a splatoon OLED. I got a ZELDA Oled and want to do the same BUT use the MOSFET on backside solution from abal1000x. There's also no DAT0-adapter used in the video linked. Would you recommend to do it like that and do you expect any differences between a Splatoon and Zelda Oled? And which MOSFET do I need to buy?
there is no really hardware difference between the splatoon and zelda edition , maybe just a different emmc brand but everything else is the same.
there is a dat0 adapter used in that video....
i dont use dat0 adapter but if u dont have any experience in using a hotair station i wouldnt recommend it.
also if u dont have any experience in soldering i would also recommend let someone do it who knows what hes doing.
if u dont have experience it is doable but u need to be carefull and have the correct equipment.
u can do the mosfet on the backside , i had some devices not glitch fast enough with back side mosfets so im still installing them on the apu like normaly.
so that up to u and how the device works with the backside mosfet.
Hi and thanks for your reply. I have an electrician who already did me some electrical mods like the foolography Nikon TC-16A mod. He has already repaired dozens of phones so I think he is the right one to do the job. Just need to provide him with the correct parts. I already know that i need rev1.1 of rp2040 tiny and for the rest I am still unsure.
Well that rail is 3.3v or maybe 5v (not sure, did not measure) but a 6.3v cap should be enough.
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Also, keep in mind that you might need to add another resistor on dat0 on rp-tiny if it does not work, so if your guy is up to the task you might as well ask him to replace the 2 x 47ohm resistors (dat0 and cmd) with 100ohm ones (so you don't have any issue afterwards.
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