I check it and resolder, and the same result.
I have two mosfet too, but not confident enough to work with xD
Bro, thanks!!!View attachment 373934
Seems like still Short Circuit.
To make sure, test it using resistance or diode mode whether its connected or not, before connecting the power (battery or usb).
I use 3k3 for the left one, read it anywhere in the forum and works too99% of the information is in this thread bro, just do a simple search.
Edit: We are at the point now that we are just searching the thread for other people
HelpHello, I am trying to place the picofly in my oled switch, I have an error in the clk or the CMD, the leds are really very similar. The detail is that if I measure the clk with the multimeter it gives me a value of approx 600kohm and if I measure the CMD it gives me a value of approx 600kohm, the measurements were made without any cable, are these values ok? What do you recommend I do to make the picofly work on my oled switch? I'm using the 2.67 firmware.
From the installation guide at https://gbatemp.net/download/a-definitive-picofly-install-guide.37968/download :
"If the LED flashes Red once, GREAT, you don't need to do anything special, however, if you see a single Green flash, then you need to permanently bridge the RGB jumper with solder on the rear of the RP2040"
Then the picture shows how to bridge GP25 to GND (not sure why the guide talks about a "RGB jumper", GP25 is not connected to anything on the RP2040 zero).
Anybody knows why? My guess would be that the firmware attempts to detect if it's running on a pi pico or not by checking GP25, which is connected to the onboard LED of the pi pico, but floating on the RP2040 zero.
Is it better to bridge it anyway, even if we get the red LED flash?
The correct way to turn the rp2040 into usb mode is by pressing the boot button then power it on the usb. (CMIIW)
In the first development of the firmware, the diagnostic code are coded by color. Rp2040-zero have 2 kind of type of led in the market. One is RGB and the other is GRB something like that. So the color code is green according to the normal one, become red to the others. That is why there is bridge, so for GRB, the color code will be shifted so the color remains the same.
But..... It is now deprecated.
Color is ambigue, cyan and blue is similar, lot of people misunderstand the color. Also theres only 7 distinguished color, so its difficult to diagnostic lot of condition. Then the diagnostic code change from color to pulse (like morse code), in the new firmware.
BTW, in your video, its the normal rp2040-zero. The first color is blue. Its already correct. (CMIIW)
Reference:
* The code that throws blue in the first time picofly boot
https://github.com/rehius/usk/blob/7160263347b5f6e2abdcc2b84905336e4886b4d5/main.c#L105
Thank you everyone for the info.for first time boot its opened automatically so no need to press anything just plug like normal usb flashdrive, if you want to reflash then need to press boot otherwise nothing opened
yes youre doing it correctly
First note for oled is do it very carefully, especially in clk and dat0.Help
dat0 gives me normal values I'll try in the morning with firmware 2.73First note for oled is do it very carefully, especially in clk and dat0.
I think its better to upgrade the firmware to 2.73 first. Be safe than sorry.
Ok thank you for your answer ! I will order another Dat0 adapter... thanks a lot !- The "scraping" CLK near the SoC is the easiest method if you don't reball the eMMC with a green BGA adapter
- You just missed this few posta ago https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10167138
Ditch that DAT0, it's not precise and you're risking to damage your NAND.
Ok so installed the missing 10k Resistor today and.....still nothing. BSOD! Replaced a missing cap on the APU and removed all the lingering wires from the Pico install from the various points too. IPA cleaned it all over but still nothing. I'm literally fresh out of ideas and now thinking of buying a voltage injection/thermal cam to diagnose it but I wanted to ask, will the BSOD be because of a short or will I be wasting my money? Also, if anyone cares to have another look at the amended, but still BSOD, board. Thar she blows:woops had it on 2k setting, turned it 20k and got 9.95k...and 200k mode gets me 10k. Alright, thanks again. And that size is definitely 0201!?
Edit - Yep its definitely 0201 (compared it to a spare 0201 cap I had. Right, ordering some 10k Resistors now.)
Edit - Also went ahead and ordered some 1Ks too for when re-attempting the mosfets but readied with pull down Resistors too.
......Now we wait.......
I went back and read most of your posts and I don't think you have a short.Ok so installed the missing 10k Resistor today and.....still nothing. BSOD! Replaced a missing cap on the APU and removed all the lingering wires from the Pico install from the various points too. IPA cleaned it all over but still nothing. I'm literally fresh out of ideas and now thinking of buying a voltage injection/thermal cam to diagnose it but I wanted to ask, will the BSOD be because of a short or will I be wasting my money? Also, if anyone cares to have another look at the amended, but still BSOD, board. Thar she blows:
Ok so installed the missing 10k Resistor today and.....still nothing. BSOD! Replaced a missing cap on the APU and removed all the lingering wires from the Pico install from the various points too. IPA cleaned it all over but still nothing. I'm literally fresh out of ideas and now thinking of buying a voltage injection/thermal cam to diagnose it but I wanted to ask, will the BSOD be because of a short or will I be wasting my money? Also, if anyone cares to have another look at the amended, but still BSOD, board. Thar she blows:
aaahhhhh so you reckon it was mid write and then because of the faulty frimware i chose to use, it doesn't know any real boot anymore. Is that the jist of it? Also will go back to 2.67 because that worked for me previously and its well known to work. Ok, i'll give it a try.I went back and read most of your posts and I don't think you have a short.
While bsod might be a result of a previous short it's unlikely that you have one now.
Maybe this has already been suggested but I would go on and solder back Pico with latest firmware and see if by any chance it boots to hekate.
IMO it has to be related to emmc especially if you consider the fact that this issue started when you booted the switch with 2.72 fw that had an issue with clk which should be responsible for synchronising the writing between pico and emmc.
Yes, that is what i'm thinking. But I would still go with 2.73 since it has a way more advanced diagnistics. Or you could try 2.67 and then 2.73, up to you.aaahhhhh so you reckon it was mid write and then because of the faulty frimware i chose to use, it doesn't know any real boot anymore. Is that the jist of it? Also will go back to 2.67 because that worked for me previously and its well known to work. Ok, i'll give it a try.
My assumption of BSOD means the processor can't run. It could be anything, from voltage is not supplied to the cpu, or ram doesn't work, or emmc doesn't work, so the cpu couldn't run the code.Ok so installed the missing 10k Resistor today and.....still nothing. BSOD! Replaced a missing cap on the APU and removed all the lingering wires from the Pico install from the various points too. IPA cleaned it all over but still nothing. I'm literally fresh out of ideas and now thinking of buying a voltage injection/thermal cam to diagnose it but I wanted to ask, will the BSOD be because of a short or will I be wasting my money? Also, if anyone cares to have another look at the amended, but still BSOD, board. Thar she blows:
Those caps is not essential i guess. Only to smooth the signal.Hello. There's Something that confuses me about MOSFETs. Our man R recommends using the caps from an RP2040 in case APU caps were damaged, but Voltar removes the caps and solders directly to the pads.
I'd prefer removing the caps too, but I don't get the contradiction here. The guide says "you're probably fine without the caps" This probability increases the confusion.
Aliexpress?
V2.73 working flawlessly on Toshiba.
A couple of observations:
They switched over USBC interface but supplied doesn't fit on chip socket
Dat0 adapter supplied is crap but build chip quality is good
Hello. There's Something that confuses me about MOSFETs. Our man R recommends using the caps from an RP2040 in case APU caps were damaged, but Voltar removes the caps and solders directly to the pads.
I'd prefer removing the caps too, but I don't get the contradiction here. The guide says "you're probably fine without the caps" This probability increases the confusion.
This has been previously discussed. As abal1000x said, caps smooth the signal. Although they seem to not matter in most of the cases it was suggested that if you play a game/app that has a high resource demand the APU might experience unexpected behavior due to these caps not being present.Those caps is not essential i guess. Only to smooth the signal.
Its like helmet for a soldier, it is not necessary, but without it, you wont have some kind of protection.
i am interest on @jkyoho explain about this kind of stuff, you are more expert in this field.