Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[bilalhassan341]

Ok so installed the missing 10k Resistor today and.....still nothing. BSOD! Replaced a missing cap on the APU and removed all the lingering wires from the Pico install from the various points too. IPA cleaned it all over but still nothing. I'm literally fresh out of ideas and now thinking of buying a voltage injection/thermal cam to diagnose it but I wanted to ask, will the BSOD be because of a short or will I be wasting my money? Also, if anyone cares to have another look at the amended, but still BSOD, board. Thar she blows:

Edit: Found some scratched of mask under the battery connector from my foolish way use of tweezers to connect/disconnect the battery. And done some tests. Also removed the solder mask near the rst point on the resistors but got nothing. just cleaning up everything i can.

My switch also gave the Blue screen because the nand got corrupted. But it still boot into Hekate try to install the pico and see if it boots.

Post automatically merged: May 26, 2023

How many coils are there on V2 switch board? @QuiTim you suggests me to check the coils because of buzzing sound from the board but I have found only one coil. What are the locations and how many are there on v2 board. I appreciate your help. Thanks

 

[AngelCardenash]

I got a successful installation of the picofly, start hetake the first two days, just after connecting the charger with the swicth off hetake stop starting, now just start the OFW and there is no way to start in hetake, the fly peak flashes blue and then green

“The Flex had been damaged in v1, I had to change it and everything works without problems. I still cannot assure that it will be damaged by connecting the charger with the Nintendo switch off, but I recommend not doing it much more if it is an unofficial charger. So far I have been using the new Flex for 3 days and everything works without problems. I have avoided connecting the charger when the Nintendo switch is off and everything works correctly.”

 

[Nephiel]

V2.73 working flawlessly on Toshiba.

I like that wiring, very neat. What kind of wire / gauge did you use?

 

[Sainty]

I like that wiring, very neat. What kind of wire / gauge did you use?

Yeah that does look superb. How was it not using the DAT0 adapter?
More details please @juanvlc

 

[bilalhassan341]

I like that wiring, very neat. What kind of wire / gauge did you use?

Does this chip supports the new SDA and SCL Points??..

 

[QuiTim]

V2.73 working flawlessly on Toshiba.

A couple of observations:
They switched over USBC interface but supplied doesn't fit on chip socket
Dat0 adapter supplied is crap but build chip quality is good

Looks nice.
I would suggest, as a best practice, to refrain from wiring the Pico cables too close to the coils on the switch just as a precaution as we might get some signal interference

 

[Switxh]

Hi I tried to search the thread for answers but couldn't find much. I have an issue with slow glitching Picofly on an OLED. (2.73 firmware) I used the HWFLY CPU cable and soldered pin 3 on the cable to the CPU pin on the Picofly. about 50% of the time that I turn it on it takes an unusually long time to glitch. Around 15-20 seconds. But then other times it glitches within 2 seconds.

I checked the diode readings on the CPU pin on the Picofly side and it was around 1.100 with black probe on ground. SP1 and SP2 measured in diode mode show ground on one side and ~20 ohms on the other sides (respectively).

I have done other OLED Picoflys using dual mosfets and I didn't have any issues which makes me think its the CPU flex cable but I don't see what exactly is wrong because the connections appear solid. Is it because I only soldered the CPU wire to pin 3 and not both pin 3 and 4? I seen people saying that they're connected so you only need to solder to pin 3. Any suggestions?

 

[zorusgb]

This has me questioning myself now. https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10160786

Been reading far back trying to catch up to the current times. I am gathering the parts to install this PicoFly so am just playing with flashing the PicoFly firmware.

Current PicoFlyGuide v6.1 Doesn't says the statement quoted above. I says the following (I assume is this was one of the changes):

"
If the LED flashes Yellow once, GREAT, you don't need to
do anything special, however, if you get multiple flashes,
or no flash at all, the flash was unsuccessful and you
need to attempt flashing the firmware once again.
You can hold the boot button, plug your RP2040-Zero back
into your computer, flash the .uf2 to the board again and
look for a Yellow LED flash now."

I attached a small video link of what I did. If you guys be so kind to let me know if I done it correctly or If I need to bridge the RGB jumper. TIA

Mine does the same with 2.73. Since 2.70 you don't need to bridge, the error codes are now pulse based instead of color.

 

[juanvlc]

I like that wiring, very neat. What kind of wire / gauge did you use?

awg36 ul10064 u´ll find on ali

Does this chip supports the new SDA and SCL Points??..

don´t see any other points on the chip to wire it up and using flex don´t need it

Looks nice.
I would suggest, as a best practice, to refrain from wiring the Pico cables too close to the coils on the switch just as a precaution as we might get some signal interference

thanks, ll take care of this
Thanks to @rehius for his usefull fail led code implemetation

 

[abal1000x]

Hi I tried to search the thread for answers but couldn't find much. I have an issue with slow glitching Picofly on an OLED. (2.73 firmware) I used the HWFLY CPU cable and soldered pin 3 on the cable to the CPU pin on the Picofly. about 50% of the time that I turn it on it takes an unusually long time to glitch. Around 15-20 seconds. But then other times it glitches within 2 seconds.

I checked the diode readings on the CPU pin on the Picofly side and it was around 1.100 with black probe on ground. SP1 and SP2 measured in diode mode show ground on one side and ~20 ohms on the other sides (respectively).

I have done other OLED Picoflys using dual mosfets and I didn't have any issues which makes me think its the CPU flex cable but I don't see what exactly is wrong because the connections appear solid. Is it because I only soldered the CPU wire to pin 3 and not both pin 3 and 4? I seen people saying that they're connected so you only need to solder to pin 3. Any suggestions?

You might check the Dat0 adapter, if you use it.
I met cases when the pico glitching until timeout, turn out its the dat0 adapter.
Shift it a little bit to right and the glitch works.

 

[detilmalala]

hello, i made a standard switch, and the atm works great, but when i start it in ofw, the nintendo logo appears and a black screen, is it bricked? do you have any solution? I haven't backed up the nand yet

 

[abal1000x]

hello, i made a standard switch, and the atm works great, but when i start it in ofw, the nintendo logo appears and a black screen, is it bricked? do you have any solution? I haven't backed up the nand yet

What version is the firmware. A very old firmware had that bug.

 

[detilmalala]

What version is the firmware. A very old firmware had that bug.

last one, 16.0.3

 

[abal1000x]

last one, 16.0.3

I mean the picofly firmware version.

 

[detilmalala]

I mean the picofly firmware version.

2.70

 

[abal1000x]

2.70

I've no clue. Waiting for others who might have some experience on that issue.

 

[Switxh]

You might check the Dat0 adapter, if you use it.
I met cases when the pico glitching until timeout, turn out its the dat0 adapter.
Shift it a little bit to right and the glitch works.

Okay thanks I will see if that helps. Although it has never failed to glitch it just takes 20+ seconds sometimes. Its very random. Sometimes it will take 2 seconds, sometimes around 10 seconds, and occasionally 20+ seconds.

 

[detilmalala]

I've no clue. Waiting for others who might have some experience on that issue.

maybe the nand is dead

 

[abal1000x]

maybe the nand is dead

I don't think so. If the nand dead, there will be no Nintendo logo shows up.
I think the data inside the nand is corrupted. But might be not.

 

[juanvlc]

maybe the nand is dead

Detailed install photos may help