Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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mattytrog

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Hi,

if you permit here's my feedback with the new universal method + Simple-UF2 v0.9.4.uf2.
I'm facing the same issue as popy that is only booting at the SX OS Option menu from startup.

My setup :
  • Neon Switch from stock upgraded onto 6.2.0 ofw
  • Joycon modded
  • Trinket M0 flashed with switchboot bootloader then Trinket_Rebug_Both.uf2
  • Vol+ strap and USB disconnect strap fitted
If this could help
Yep Fix coming today.
 

Dougiejones

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There we go... All updated.
Simple-UF2 v0.9.5

Gonna test it asap...
Pain in the a.. to catch my Trinket M0's bootloader mode console closed.
I have to aim a bit lol

EDIT : Simple-UF2 v0.9.5 tested and working good by my side :switch:

@mattytrog : I think you can call it v1.0.0 ;)
BTW I always wonder why there's such a huge size difference between yours and @popy's one ?
 
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popy

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I've tried your TRINKET_REBUG_SIMPLE_UF2_V094_250ms.UF2 and it works like a charm :yay:

Just a question. Why your 250_ms.UF2 is half the size from the original for just timing change ?
Did you cut so much in the code ?

@popy : Thank you for your tests and bug ascent
@mattytrog : Thank you for your amazing work
Nice to hear that its also working for you.
The compiled binary is smaler than 512k.
I am using a python script to convert it to UF2.
But no, no code stripped [emoji6]

Anyway, update with fix included is here, see 0.9.5.

Gesendet von meinem ONEPLUS A6013 mit Tapatalk
 
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mattytrog

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Gonna test it asap...
Pain in the a.. to catch my Trinket M0's bootloader mode console closed.
I have to aim a bit lol

EDIT : Simple-UF2 v0.9.5 tested and working good by my side :switch:

@mattytrog : I think you call it v1.0.0 ;)
BTW I always wonder why there's such a huge size difference between yours and @popy's one ?
The only difference is I compile mine on-chip. I upload actual chip images.

I have had issues with the uf2 converters before that were impossible to debug.

I can do them in any format. UF2, trimmed UF2, bin, elf. Doesn`t matter.

I just like doing this as I know that the files are 100%.

Thats all. :)

Everything apart from the bootloader and nvmuserrow is rewritten
 
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Dougiejones

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Ok thx to answer. I think i understand. Probably compression mess like svf and xsvf ?

But doesn't the UF2 flash size affect the SAMD21 more options ? More further possibilities ?

Sorry for the questions i'm interessed in
 

popy

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Ok thx to answer. I think i understand. Probably compression mess like svf and xsvf ?

But doesn't the UF2 flash size affect the SAMD21 more options ? More further possibilities ?

Sorry for the questions i'm interessed in

No, no compression.
The compiler is generating an binary image of all object files (that are the multiple compiled c files resulting in .o which than gets linked to one single binary image).
This binary is usally smaler than the entire Flash size -> because otherwise you have to much code for the chip.
My UF2 is just that binary (smaler than 512k) converted with an python script to the UF2 format (which holds additional infos like app start address and so on...).

@mattytrog is doing developing like this (please correct me if i am wrong):
  • Do some code changes (THX A LOT FOR YOUR AMAZING WORK)
  • compile it and flash it in one step in Arduino to the chip
  • Read back the CURRENT.UF2 and share it
  • Because of that the UF2 bootloader is providing the complete flash contents -> size is bigger (= whole flash size)
Dont worry about the smaller file size :D
I have just tried to find the culprit with 0.9.4 and just developed a bit different like @mattytrog
Anyways 0.9.5 with the fix is out, and with the usual size :P

Happy flashing
pOpY
 
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Ok thx to answer. I think i understand. Probably compression mess like svf and xsvf ?

But doesn't the UF2 flash size affect the SAMD21 more options ? More further possibilities ?

Sorry for the questions i'm interessed in
No. The difference is with Popys, the parts of the chip that are programmed are written. The rest is empty space. This is all good...

However... if parts of a previous chip flash contain errors, those errors carry over also it seems as the chip hasn`t been completely rewritten over. I haven`t done in-depth testing, but I`m guessing that parts of the flash (eg Simple-UF2 uses FlashStorage) wouldn`t be erased correctly.

I just want everybody singing from the same sheet. If someone complains that their flash storage on the chip isn`t remembering values or (SUPER IMPORTANT) the straps aren`t being dropped, burning fuses and it is caused by saving a couple of minutes and saving space, it is false economy.

Once we know the chip is clean, we are good.

I`m probably wrong but I just feel better knowing the chip is completely wiped.

Nothing wrong with using a UF2 converter. Just my OCD won`t let me.
 
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Thx mates for the complete explanation. I think it's clear for me now. I see the difference between the binary file image from @popy that only flashes a part of the SAMD21 and the entire flash file from @mattytrog that flashes this latter. This explains the size's differences in the UF2 files. Correct me if i'm wrong plz.

BTW : I messed it up trying to flash TRINKET_REBUG_SIMPLE_UF2_Vxxx as i already flashed Trinket_Rebug_Both.uf2 first from stocked Trinket M0.
By my side once Trinket_Rebug_Both.uf2 is flashed no need to flash it again to update TRINKET_REBUG_SIMPLE_UF2_Vxxx.
Otherwise i'm losing the PC Flash drive Letter...and it never comes back again... That makes me sweat lol The Trinket goes crazy Red...
I've had to force shutdown the Switch and boot onto Switch OFW to recover the TrinketM0 bootloader.
 
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mattytrog

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Thx mates. I think it's clear for me now. I see the difference between the binary file image from @popy that only flashes a part of the SAMD21 and the entire flash file from @mattytrog that flashes this latter. This explains the size's differences in the UF2 files. Correct me if i'm wrong plz.

BTW : I messed it up trying to flash TRINKET_REBUG_SIMPLE_UF2_Vxxx as i already flashed Trinket_Rebug_Both.uf2 first from stocked Trinket M0.
By my side once Trinket_Rebug_Both.uf2 is flashed no need to flash it again to update TRINKET_REBUG_SIMPLE_UF2_Vxxx.
Otherwise i'm losing the PC Flash drive Letter...
Correct sir!

Popys file will work fine! I'm so grateful for the time he put in testing the usb strap for us!

There is only one compiler I trust 100% and that's armoured-dildo. Habit etc etc

Arduino even.
 
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Correct sir!

Popys file will work fine! I'm so grateful for the time he put in testing the usb strap for us!

There is only one compiler I trust 100% and that's armoured-dildo. Habit etc etc

Arduino even.

Indeed. Again thx you both for the amazing work you've made. I keep my switch for further tests if needed ;)

No problem, glad to help.
Keep up the good work :)
 
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Thx mates for the complete explanation. I think it's clear for me now. I see the difference between the binary file image from @popy that only flashes a part of the SAMD21 and the entire flash file from @mattytrog that flashes this latter. This explains the size's differences in the UF2 files. Correct me if i'm wrong plz.

BTW : I messed it up trying to flash TRINKET_REBUG_SIMPLE_UF2_Vxxx as i already flashed Trinket_Rebug_Both.uf2 first from stocked Trinket M0.
By my side once Trinket_Rebug_Both.uf2 is flashed no need to flash it again to update TRINKET_REBUG_SIMPLE_UF2_Vxxx.
Otherwise i'm losing the PC Flash drive Letter...and it never comes back again... That makes me sweat lol The Trinket goes crazy Red...
I've had to force shutdown the Switch and boot onto Switch OFW to recover the TrinketM0 bootloader.
That's correct. Once SWITCHBOOT is flashed, you don't need to flash again. Only if you want to change to dual boot or whatever.

If you are struggling getting the drive to stay open, check your GND connection on your chip. You need a lot of heat to solder to the ground plane.

Once SWITCHBOOT opens, it should stay open. I'd investigate that.
 
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popy

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Thx mates for the complete explanation. I think it's clear for me now. I see the difference between the binary file image from @popy that only flashes a part of the SAMD21 and the entire flash file from @mattytrog that flashes this latter. This explains the size's differences in the UF2 files. Correct me if i'm wrong plz.

BTW : I messed it up trying to flash TRINKET_REBUG_SIMPLE_UF2_Vxxx as i already flashed Trinket_Rebug_Both.uf2 first from stocked Trinket M0.
By my side once Trinket_Rebug_Both.uf2 is flashed no need to flash it again to update TRINKET_REBUG_SIMPLE_UF2_Vxxx.
Otherwise i'm losing the PC Flash drive Letter...and it never comes back again... That makes me sweat lol The Trinket goes crazy Red...
I've had to force shutdown the Switch and boot onto Switch OFW to recover the TrinketM0 bootloader.

I have also encounterd some issues getting into SWITCHBOOT until i have figured out the following:
  • Boot horizon (i had no success in SX OS boot menu or hekate)
  • Disconnect USB
    When USB is connected -> SWITCHBOOT does'nt work
  • Timing is important
    Press reset shortly, the red led goes on and at this point press reset shortly again
  • When the led fades in and out (SWITCHBOOT is started) -> connect USB
With this i have 100% success rate.
Good luck
pOpY
 

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I have also encounterd some issues getting into SWITCHBOOT until i have figured out the following:
  • Boot horizon (i had no success in SX OS boot menu or hekate)
  • Disconnect USB
    When USB is connected -> SWITCHBOOT does'nt work
  • Timing is important
    Press reset shortly, the red led goes on and at this point press reset shortly again
  • When the led fades in and out (SWITCHBOOT is started) -> connect USB
With this i have 100% success rate.
Good luck
pOpY
Nice Job Popy i test yours and the from Matty two the light from you not flash to long so my battery go longer thanks for the good work
Good Luck
 

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I just soldered all wires to the motherboard, I want to make sure these connections look good before I solder the ends to the trinket, how does this all look?
 

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goudje

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I just soldered all wires to the motherboard, I want to make sure these connections look good before I solder the ends to the trinket, how does this all look?

hello take some thinner wire bro, becose some pic are not good solderd like this one your volume is not good
 

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Nice Job Popy i test yours and the from Matty two the light from you not flash to long so my battery go longer thanks for the good work
Good Luck

They are the same software sir! ;)

I just soldered all wires to the motherboard, I want to make sure these connections look good before I solder the ends to the trinket, how does this all look?

The joycon and volume look too...big?

You need some smaller wire there mate. But good job mostly :)
 
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