Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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evilsperm

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well your problem is sx os 2.0 is a pile of shit and you just fuct yourself by using it.
They have a major issue with auto rcm breaking stuff right now.
 

mattytrog

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well your problem is sx os 2.0 is a pile of shit and you just fuct yourself by using it.
They have a major issue with auto rcm breaking stuff right now.
I was actually singing their praises yesterday. Until I actually took a good look at the emuNAND that is...
 

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yes I also thought that it can only be the batterie, but why it will not charge than ?

I use hekate / atmosphere CFW.

Without looking at your install, I have no idea.

Could be...

Wire loose.
Damaged PMIC / multiplexer / M92T36.
Battery knackered.
Faulty USB port / cable / AC adapter
Faulty dock.

Or just needs a jump-start charge from an external source. Be bloody careful though.
 

mattytrog

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Now that this "Chainloader" is usable and hacked, and now we have ShaXLoader, I think its time to clean the downloads area.

Takes too much time keeping it all up-to-date.

So, if nobody has any objections, I`m purging certain stuff from the downloads area.

What will remain is as follows... For all boards...

Chainloader (boot from SD card)
ShaXLauncher (boot from SD card)
Hekate (boot from dongle - no SD card needed. Though can`t do much without one...)

I think we are all capable of putting a payload.bin on an SD card.

Objections?
 
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Witalka_Shelby

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here is my install


hmmm it looks like I shorted 3.3v and the old point :huh:

Damaged M92T36 make sene if he is for charging in RCM because in Horizon my battery charged fine (used 1.5 month).
battery knackered maybe
 
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mattytrog

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It is shorted to VCC-in. Now, we know VSVR (the correct one) is locked at 3.3v. VCC-IN can rise up to 6v. This is why we changed the old method 1.

Looking at that, I`d say your M92T36 is probably OK. All shorting them means, is that VCC-IN will only get 3.3v. The rest from vcc-in is going the wrong way down VSVR.

If anything is popped, I`d say the actual Power management IC. Though chances are it is just this shorted point that is causing problems.

If VCC-IN is shorted to 3.3v, it has to affect the power detector inside the M92T36, thus disabling its ability to select different USB voltages. Thus affecting charging.

Remove that wire, give it a good charge.

Or just let it charge for 10 minutes or so with wire removed.

Then try using TegraRCMsmash to send a payload. Get it onto bootloader screen (hekate / SXOS whatever) and leave it charging on that screen for an hour.

Report back.
 
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mattytrog

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Updated all boards to Hekate 4.2

Excluding multipayload. Not had chance. Will do tomorrow. Goodnight folks

:)
 

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Posting here to see if anyone could enlighten me:

Installed the wires inside my Switch a few months ago waiting to receive my Trinket M0 so its been a while.

Just to confirm as I want to use this method that loads the payload from the SD.

All I need is:

- Put my Trinket in bootloader mode pressing reset twice while connected to the computer
- Copy the UF2 posted here (rename it to current.uf2 ? )
- Setup my SD with the payload as the screenshot.
- Solder the wires to the trinket after removing the resistor and USB connector as marked in the other thread)

Thats correct or am I missing something?

INDEX.HTM and INFO_UF2.TXT files are necessary? Should I delete them from the Trinket bootdrive of keep the ones that came with it?
 

mattytrog

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Posting here to see if anyone could enlighten me:

Installed the wires inside my Switch a few months ago waiting to receive my Trinket M0 so its been a while.

Just to confirm as I want to use this method that loads the payload from the SD.

All I need is:

- Put my Trinket in bootloader mode pressing reset twice while connected to the computer
- Copy the UF2 posted here (rename it to current.uf2 ? )
- Setup my SD with the payload as the screenshot.
- Solder the wires to the trinket after removing the resistor and USB connector as marked in the other thread)

Thats correct or am I missing something?

INDEX.HTM and INFO_UF2.TXT files are necessary? Should I delete them from the Trinket bootdrive of keep the ones that came with it?
Correct in your plan.

No the files are not necessary. Just the UF2
 

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I'd just like to ask just to be 100% sure of my options, but is there anything I can do to make my trinket work again?

I had heatgunned the microusb port off of the trinket, and have just finished up the install, cleaning up all of my points.

The trinket worked for about 3 successful boots until it would only turn on to a quick LED flash from the pixel, and the m0 chip would start heating up.
Pressing the onboard reset button doesn't do anything, and I'm pretty sure that the heating up means that the m0 is internally shorted, meaning I have to get another trinket.

If I can't do anything to fix this, does anyone have any advice about what might have caused it? The trinket is getting 3.3v from the eMMC module, the switch is booting fine, and the usb pads aren't shorted.
The pcb to the trinket was admittedly slightly warped from flowing the usb port off, however that hasn't ever been an issue with my previous projects and all of the traces appear to be in tact/the warping is along the edge of the trinket.

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

20180924_211227.jpg
 

mattytrog

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I'd just like to ask just to be 100% sure of my options, but is there anything I can do to make my trinket work again?

I had heatgunned the microusb port off of the trinket, and have just finished up the install, cleaning up all of my points.

The trinket worked for about 3 successful boots until it would only turn on to a quick LED flash from the pixel, and the m0 chip would start heating up.
Pressing the onboard reset button doesn't do anything, and I'm pretty sure that the heating up means that the m0 is internally shorted, meaning I have to get another trinket.

If I can't do anything to fix this, does anyone have any advice about what might have caused it? The trinket is getting 3.3v from the eMMC module, the switch is booting fine, and the usb pads aren't shorted.
The pcb to the trinket was admittedly slightly warped from flowing the usb port off, however that hasn't ever been an issue with my previous projects and all of the traces appear to be in tact/the warping is along the edge of the trinket.

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

View attachment 144481
I'd just like to ask just to be 100% sure of my options, but is there anything I can do to make my trinket work again?

I had heatgunned the microusb port off of the trinket, and have just finished up the install, cleaning up all of my points.

The trinket worked for about 3 successful boots until it would only turn on to a quick LED flash from the pixel, and the m0 chip would start heating up.
Pressing the onboard reset button doesn't do anything, and I'm pretty sure that the heating up means that the m0 is internally shorted, meaning I have to get another trinket.

If I can't do anything to fix this, does anyone have any advice about what might have caused it? The trinket is getting 3.3v from the eMMC module, the switch is booting fine, and the usb pads aren't shorted.
The pcb to the trinket was admittedly slightly warped from flowing the usb port off, however that hasn't ever been an issue with my previous projects and all of the traces appear to be in tact/the warping is along the edge of the trinket.

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

View attachment 144481
Looking at your install, I cannot see a reason.

Looks like it just died a death. Unless when you refitted the shield, you touched something live with it.

Get in touch with vendor. Tell them it is dead. Looks a good install to me.
 

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