Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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slslasher

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I am using rebug 7 wire install for method 3 without the volume strap. but it doesnt boot into rcm mode when I hold the volume up. Where does the SCL points connect to in the switch? From the pics it looks like the top capacitor

The rebug 7 wire method will still auto inject payload though. Is there something i am missing here?

Update: I found out its a faulty Switchme board, changed to a new one and it works perfectly. Wonder how many board will be faulty out of the 50 I bought :(
 
Last edited by slslasher,

wawa21394

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Hi everyone, could someone tell me how to install switchme using the 6 or 7-wire method?I need diagrams for that. Thank you
 

DeathGrind

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Quick question. On the new 3.3v wiring on the daughter board, do the 2 points need to be bridged? Or is one sufficient. I ask because I've seen pics of the two spots bridged and not bridged.

Example

Bridged


Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
89d1c439f4f76a02ccd44a7fcd8b4004.jpg




Not bridged

b7c608856422223284d1c182d1bd44ac.jpg



Thank you
 
Last edited by DeathGrind,

mattytrog

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Quick question. On the new 3.3v wiring on the daughter board, do the 2 points need to be bridged? Or is one sufficient. I ask because I've seen pics of the two spots bridged and not bridged.

Example

Bridged



Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

Not bridged

Thank you

One, or the other or bridged. It doesn`t matter.
 

taxco

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i still have the Legacy Method 3 - Only here for compatibility purposes only.

What happen was that the battery completely draind, i had to open the dwitch and directly connect the battery of the switch to a 5v DC for 10 sec ( positive to positive and negative to negative)
After this the switch started to charge, ( before this there was no way i could let it charge )

Now still that i have this Legacy Method 3 ( RCM disabled )
what method should i use now without having to solder everything out and without having the battery drain.

Credits:
One of the memebers help me get the siwtch working again but i forgot his name. THX.
 

mattytrog

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i still have the Legacy Method 3 - Only here for compatibility purposes only.

What happen was that the battery completely draind, i had to open the dwitch and directly connect the battery of the switch to a 5v DC for 10 sec ( positive to positive and negative to negative)
After this the switch started to charge, ( before this there was no way i could let it charge )

Now still that i have this Legacy Method 3 ( RCM disabled )
what method should i use now without having to solder everything out and without having the battery drain.

Credits:
One of the memebers help me get the siwtch working again but i forgot his name. THX.
This is why method 3 is bad. It is depreciated as far as I am concerned.

Change the power point (Switch PCB to BAT)...

Change to a new feedpoint (NAND or M92T36 capacitor - method 1 or 2)
 
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taxco

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This is why method 3 is bad. It is depreciated as far as I am concerned.

Change the power point (Switch PCB to BAT)...

Change to a new feedpoint (NAND or M92T36 capacitor - method 1 or 2)

I dont understand, it has been a while.
Could you please explain in steps. thx
 

mattytrog

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I dont understand, it has been a while.
Could you please explain in steps. thx

OK... Go to the OP, open 2 tabs on your browser...

1 tab, method 1 pic
the other tab, old method 3.

Disconnect the BAT connection from trinket and motherboard, that you have at the moment. Discard.

Make new connection from 3.3v pad on trinket to one of the points shown in method 1

While you are there, swap the wire soldered to pad 4 on trinket to pad 2.
Forget that. Remove completely. Not needed.
 
Last edited by mattytrog,
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taxco

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OK... Go to the OP, open 2 tabs on your browser...

1 tab, method 1 pic
the other tab, old method 3.

Disconnect the BAT connection from trinket and motherboard, that you have at the moment. Discard.

Make new connection from 3.3v pad on trinket to one of the points shown in method 1

While you are there, swap the wire soldered to pad 4 on trinket to pad 2.
oke thx let me see,
How aout flashing the trinket, now you just drop the files on the trinket or ?

thx

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

OK... Go to the OP, open 2 tabs on your browser...

1 tab, method 1 pic
the other tab, old method 3.

Disconnect the BAT connection from trinket and motherboard, that you have at the moment. Discard.

Make new connection from 3.3v pad on trinket to one of the points shown in method 1

While you are there, swap the wire soldered to pad 4 on trinket to pad 2.
if i swap the wire soldered to pad 4 on trinket to pad 2,
The i will have 2 wires goint to the resitors, one from old method and one the new method. correct and why?
and i have pad 3 solder to the volume up btn.
 
Last edited by taxco,

mattytrog

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oke thx let me see,
How aout flashing the trinket, now you just drop the files on the trinket or ?

thx

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------


if i swap the wire soldered to pad 4 on trinket to pad 2,
The i will have 2 wires goint to the resitors, one from old method and one the new method. correct and why?
and i have pad 3 solder to the volume up btn.


Correct... Forget moving pad 4 to pad 2... Just get rid of it.

Remove the pad 4 wire going to the capacitor. Not needed.
 
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taxco

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Correct... Forget moving pad 4 to pad 2... Just get rid of it.

Remove the pad 4 wire going to the capacitor. Not needed.
sorry man bit confused.
Should i have one wire 3.3v going to the cap and totaly remove the pad 4 wire form cap and trinket.
 
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