Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[fadx]

Hmmmm, now you have me doubting the 6 wire method. Was only planning on that method due to the dual boot and no need for autorcm. I guess as you have no installs using this you see no real disadvantages to the 4 wire install? Will have to think on it now.

You can still dual boot with the 4 wire install if you modify your joycon or use a jig. The most convenient would be a joycon mod with either a reed switch, a button or using the eject button to bridge the pins on the joycon (I think there's some people here that have done that).

 

[mattytrog]

You can still dual boot with the 4 wire install if you modify your joycon or use a jig. The most convenient would be a joycon mod with either a reed switch, a button or using the eject button to bridge the pins on the joycon (I think there's some people here that have done that).

Very true. I posted a thread earlier in the year with a nice easy joycon mod.

We shouldn't be burning fuses needlessly with every firmware revision. You are just locking yourself in a room with the walls getting smaller...

 

[Laizrod]

Hi.
I don’t especially know if someone has already asked this, but I guess you can understand that reading the whole 76 pages of this thread is actually hard, right?

So, it’s certainly a really dumb question, but I am interested in method 2, can someone explain to me what are the risks of burning fuses/not saving them?
Is there any risk of material damage of the console?
I would really appreciate if someone could explain me these things because I did not understand anything about fuses x)

Thank you

 

[r5xscn]

Hi.
I don’t especially know if someone has already asked this, but I guess you can understand that reading the whole 76 pages of this thread is actually hard, right?

So, it’s certainly a really dumb question, but I am interested in method 2, can someone explain to me what are the risks of burning fuses/not saving them?
Is there any risk of material damage of the console?
I would really appreciate if someone could explain me these things because I did not understand anything about fuses x)

Thank you

The fuses referred here is the fuse that is in the CPU/chipset, not the one in the system to prevent overvoltage or overcurrent.

The main processor (CPU/chipset) has a set of fuses which is used to indicate the last firmware installed on the console. For example, FW 4.x has 5 fuses burnt, FW 5.x has 6 fuses burnt. If the number of the burnt fuses is higher than what is supposed to be based on the firmware, it won't boot. If the number of the burnt fuses is lower than the what is supposed to be based on the firmware, it will burn the required amount of fuses.

*Note I don't know the exact number of burnt fuses for each FW.
Example:
FW 4.x with 3 burnt fuses, will burn more fuse(s) in the next boot (assuming FW 4.x required 5 fuses).
FW 4.x with 6 burnt fuses, will not boot (assuming FW 4.x required 5 fuses).

The function of the fuses is solely to prevent FW downgrade on the console. If you want to be able to downgrade to your previous firmware, use autorcm with bootloader/CFW that can prevent burning fuses. Burning fuses won't affect the console performance unless Nintendo made it to do so (maybe to slow down your console when a number of fuses are burnt to make you buy a new console, or maybe its maybeline).

Some CFWs can disable fuse check, to avoid fuse burning or to allow the system to boot lower FW.

The system can burn the fuses by allowing more current than the fuse can handle.

Xbox 360 also uses efuses for prevent downgrading AFAIK.

 

[Laizrod]

The fuses referred here is the fuse that is in the CPU/chipset, not the one in the system to prevent overvoltage or overcurrent.

The main processor (CPU/chipset) has a set of fuses which is used to indicate the last firmware installed on the console. For example, FW 4.x has 5 fuses burnt, FW 5.x has 6 fuses burnt. If the number of the burnt fuses is higher than what is supposed to be based on the firmware, it won't boot. If the number of the burnt fuses is lower than the what is supposed to be based on the firmware, it will burn the required amount of fuses.

*Note I don't know the exact number of burnt fuses for each FW.
Example:
FW 4.x with 3 burnt fuses, will burn more fuse(s) in the next boot (assuming FW 4.x required 5 fuses).
FW 4.x with 6 burnt fuses, will not boot (assuming FW 4.x required 5 fuses).

The function of the fuses is solely to prevent FW downgrade on the console. If you want to be able to downgrade to your previous firmware, use autorcm with bootloader/CFW that can prevent burning fuses. Burning fuses won't affect the console performance unless Nintendo made it to do so (maybe to slow down your console when a number of fuses are burnt to make you buy a new console, or maybe its maybeline).

Some CFWs can disable fuse check, to avoid fuse burning or to allow the system to boot lower FW.

The system can burn the fuses by allowing more current than the fuse can handle.

Xbox 360 also uses efuses for prevent downgrading AFAIK.

Oh okay, I do understand now.
Thanks a lot for the explanations, it’s completely clear in my mind now.
I will use the method 2 because, personally, I don’t care about my fuses.

See y’all soon,

 

[tommygunzs]

Got a rebug and decided to do my first soldering job, and I think I did a good job, and the best part it works and got CTCear 4.2 working with auto-rcm. Thanks for the tutorial.

 

[Adr990]

If I ground my Trinket M0, the LED's start doing their blinking stuff, that's good I suppose.
But it also starts acting as something pressing the power button? Has this been seen happening before?

I am using Method 2. (with a jig, instead of AutoRCM)

Pictures:
https://i.imgur.com/F4rvBIS.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/nDUWK7P.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/hbPBzzA.jpg

 

[mattytrog]

If I ground my Trinket M0, the LED's start doing their blinking stuff, that's good I suppose.
But it also starts acting as something pressing the power button? Has this been seen happening before?

I am using Method 2. (with a jig, instead of AutoRCM)

Pictures:
https://i.imgur.com/F4rvBIS.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/nDUWK7P.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/hbPBzzA.jpg

Any chance of putting a video up showing what's happening? The trinket lights in particular?

 

[Adr990]

Hmm, it doesn't blink at the moment, it's just a green led now.

Here is a video of what it does now:
(It's still processing towards 4K)

 

[mattytrog]

Hmm, it doesn't blink at the moment, it's just a green led now.

Here is a video of what it does now:
(It's still processing towards 4K)

Thank you. I'll come back with a solution.

 

[KrzyInuYasha]

Well made use of that extra wire i had from trying the 6-wire install, Can now duel boot and don't need for a jig or Joy-Con mod. As you can see in the assembled photo i had to move the switch to the right from when i put the screw under the mSD slot in it tightened the case up to where it pressed the button fully. Also had to use some copper tape i had since i couldn't get the solder to stick to the shield, hence the extra wire from the Trinket to the button, just to make sure i had a good ground.

 

[Adr990]

https://i.imgur.com/7WZytzt.png

Does anyone know what component this is? (In the red box, so I can replace it)
I managed to knock it off while trying to unbridge the two in the green box.

 

[mattytrog]

https://i.imgur.com/7WZytzt.png

Does anyone know what component this is? (In the red box, so I can replace it)
I managed to knock it off while trying to unbridge the two in the green box.

Red box: replace with 2.2uF 0402 MLCC capacitor.

Other one in green box: 4.7uF 0402 MLCC capacitor.

It's all in OP

 

[Adr990]

Thanks, sorry about that.

Could I have damaged my Trinket M0 if I bridged those two caps and connect it to the 3v point?
I'll have to order a new one in that case.

 

[mattytrog]

Thanks, sorry about that.

Could I have damaged my Trinket M0 if I bridged those two caps and connect it to the 3v point?
I'll have to order a new one in that case.

Unlikely.

You will know if the trinket is faulty as you will just get a solid light, reset won't do anything and it will feel hot and cooking

 

[Adr990]

Reset doesn't to anything, and it only shows a solid green led. (and then shuts the system off)
Unless I disconnect the Joycon pin 10 strap from point 3 I believe, I can't test it now, but it would at least do more than just the green led.

I can try things again when the cap(s) arrive.

 

[mattytrog]

Reset doesn't to anything, and it only shows a solid green led. (and then shuts the system off)
Unless I disconnect the Joycon pin 10 strap from point 3 I believe, I can't test it now, but it would at least do more than just the green led.

I can try things again when the cap(s) arrive.

Trinket cooked.

Does the chip on the trinket burn your finger before the console shuts down through overloaded circuit?

 

[Adr990]

Trinket cooked.

Does the chip on the trinket burn your finger before the console shuts down through overloaded circuit?

Haven't tried, is the missing capacitor only responsible for charging or is it needed to power the Switch?

 

[mattytrog]

Haven't tried, is the missing capacitor only responsible for charging or is it needed to power the Switch?

They are there for voltage regulation / smoothing. But yes, that is possible.

 

[Adr990]

I have read up to page 22 so far, but it has raised a question on Method 2 for me.
I see some mention the "Vol+ Strap" point, but I currently only see the "Joycon pin 10 Strap" covered for the Trinket M0.

If I would like to have the Switch boot automatically to RCM without AutoRCM, is this possible with the Trinket M0 method? (By soldering a addition wire somewhere)

If not, I feel like going with AutoRCM might indeed be the safest option for saving the efuses. Relying on pressing Vol+ every (re)boot could be risky business.