Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[mattytrog]

Here you go!

I ran a diff cus I was curious. You should fork the original repo and put your changes up on github. Might be good for people who want to submit changes.

Also, I went back in and thanks to whoever suggested scissors. I removed the power-drain resistor mentioned in OP while I was in there. Much much better.

View attachment 138447

Compiled the latest mainline CTCaer/hekate to CURRENT.UF2 as well. There's no formal release of this yet but it works for me.

Thank-you!

I feel a bit daft about putting stuff on Github.

The changes are pretty much:

• Renamed straps
• Switched foundTegra to false prior to sleeping.
  
• added wakeup_rising and falling - gives different colour LED depending on method 2 or 3
• defaultpayload to 1 - This was a private test getting all payloads added into payload.h and cycling between them via pin 1 grounded (meant for vol- strap) - unfinished. WIP.
• changed remarks to update.

I feel like I`m treading on peoples toes if I just go randomly changing their code. I`m trying to get my head around Github from Windows. I`m a Unix man normally.

Will add to OP!

 

[crow132]

Will open my switch today to see if its really that hard to solder like I read some people saying (I did the wii mod a ton of times where you had to dremmel the IC and solder on the pins)

If its doable will probably do it. (was going to wait for some chainloader payload)

here is my advice and what i learned through the process, so you don't make the same mistakes that I did

1- Use good wire and good tools in general

2- NEVER use glue close to the solder points

3- BY ALL MEANS, NEVER USE FLUX

follow those points, and you should be ok, its a pretty easy modification

see ya.

 

[Deleted User]

here is my advice and what i learned through the process, so you don't make the same mistakes that I did

1- Use good wire and good tools in general

2- NEVER use glue close to the solder points

3- BY ALL MEANS, NEVER USE FLUX

follow those points, and you should be ok, its a pretty easy modification

see ya.

Never use flux?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Thank you @mattytrog

 

[crow132]

Never use flux?

literally used a little bit to clean up my switch and it fried it up, not recommended

if you can avoid it, don't use it

 

[Deleted User]

literally used a little bit to clean up my switch and it fried it up, not recommended

if you can avoid it, don't use it

I'm assuming your not talking about rosin flux since its for soldering and not cleaning.

 

[mattytrog]

literally used a little bit to clean up my switch and it fried it up, not recommended

if you can avoid it, don't use it

Flux is ok as long as you clean it off. It eats traces. Proper Fluxite is the best stuff. But that stuff could eat it's way to the earth's core of you don't clean it off

 

[Canna]

Never use flux?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Thank you @mattytrog

Always use flux,, damnnn

Always buy good flux i think what you mean Crow

 

[crow132]

well maybe proper flux would do the job, but honestly I would not risk it ever again xD

I think the four points of method 1 are doable without it rly

but of course, im just a noob at this, just speaking from my experience with this installation

let's seatle this, if you are not sure about what your doing like me, avoid it D:

 

[consolex]

 

[mattytrog]

Lovely.

Rather lacking in detail though.

Looks like this threads method 3 which drains battery by the way your trinket fires up as soon as you connect the battery molex.

 

[consolex]

Lovely.

Rather lacking in detail though.

Looks like this threads method 3 which drains battery by the way your trinket fires up as soon as you connect the battery molex.

yes 3 methode

 

[mattytrog]

yes 3 methode

tres bien mes amis

 

[subcon959]

I'm not sure I've ever done a soldering job without flux so that's a strange thing to not recommend. Good tools are essential too, as well as some quality 60/40 Pb solder.

 

[mikeleuskaldunak]

..

 

[mikeleuskaldunak]

..

 

[mikeleuskaldunak]

..

 

[redmagejosh]

Hi guys, just wanted to report that after careful implementation of method 1 I've successfully installed my trinket m0, set my switch to autorcm and I'm running ReiNX. Thanks @mattytrog for all your help!

So... I'm back as I'm having some issues.
As I had reported back on Thursday the trinket got installed and was working fine. I got to install several games and they were working fine under ReiNX.
The switch was sitting at about 39% charge so I decided to leave it docked for it to get full charge while booted in ReiNX.

I left on a family trip and came back today to find the switch dead, I want to believe it is the battery that got flatted out.
Nothing was lighting up and the switch felt how.

So I proceeded to remove the back cover and plating and check that everything seems to be properly connected however what felt the hottest was the trinket's ATSAMD21E18A-U. I noticed that a soon as I disconnected the battery the trinket cooled off. So I'm guessing that way in which I connected it might be the cause. I connected the trinket to the point marked on method 1, I was using the legacy files.

Any ideas what could be the cause of this? I looked thoroughly and the only thing I noticed that might be the cause but I'm not even sure if it was just me been paranoid is that the cable going from the 3v to the point in the board might have touched the metal plaiting where the trinket was resting (the one next to the where you solder the cable to the board for 3v since my trinket was behind the metal heat sink and I had made a cut on it to able to reach the reset button by flexing the back panel.

I'm wondering, given that I don't see any reaction from the screen and that my switch was in autorcm, is it even charging at this moment?

@mattytrog any input would be appreciated.

 

[mattytrog]

So... I'm back as I'm having some issues.
As I had reported back on Thursday the trinket got installed and was working fine. I got to install several games and they were working fine under ReiNX.
The switch was sitting at about 39% charge so I decided to leave it docked for it to get full charge while booted in ReiNX.

I left on a family trip and came back today to find the switch dead, I want to believe it is the battery that got flatted out.
Nothing was lighting up and the switch felt how.

So I proceeded to remove the back cover and plating and check that everything seems to be properly connected however what felt the hottest was the trinket's ATSAMD21E18A-U. I noticed that a soon as I disconnected the battery the trinket cooled off. So I'm guessing that way in which I connected it might be the cause. I connected the trinket to the point marked on method 1, I was using the legacy files.

Any ideas what could be the cause of this? I looked thoroughly and the only thing I noticed that might be the cause but I'm not even sure if it was just me been paranoid is that the cable going from the 3v to the point in the board might have touched the metal plaiting where the trinket was resting (the one next to the where you solder the cable to the board for 3v since my trinket was behind the metal heat sink and I had made a cut on it to able to reach the reset button by flexing the back panel.

I'm wondering, given that I don't see any reaction from the screen and that my switch was in autorcm, is it even charging at this moment?

@mattytrog any input would be appreciated.

OK... First of all, don`t worry.

Second, I think your switch itself is fine.

ATSAMDs get hot when they have failed.

First thing I would do, is disconnect the 3v and make it safe. Insulate it or something. Then try pushing a payload from your PC.

At this time, I`m thinking that the SAMD has failed and shorted internally.

Try disconnecting 3v and sending a payload from a PC and post back.

 

[redmagejosh]

OK... First of all, don`t worry.

Second, I think your switch itself is fine.

ATSAMDs get hot when they have failed.

First thing I would do, is disconnect the 3v and make it safe. Insulate it or something. Then try pushing a payload from your PC.

At this time, I`m thinking that the SAMD has failed and shorted internally.

Try disconnecting 3v and sending a payload from a PC and post back.

Well, I learned something new. The switch won't turn on the fan when in RCM. I tought the battery was dead but it was at 100%
I was able to push the hekate payload from the pc so the switch seems fine.

At this point, i guess the trinket is dead, right?

What causes that to happen? I might have been too rough with the trinket at first so I'm sure it was my fault but I'd like to know a possible cause or usual cause of this. Thanks again for the help @mattytrog

 

[Canna]

Well, I learned something new. The switch won't turn on the fan when in RCM. I tought the battery was dead but it was at 100%
I was able to push the hekate payload from the pc so the switch seems fine.

At this point, i guess the trinket is dead, right?

What causes that to happen? I might have been too rough with the trinket at first so I'm sure it was my fault but I'd like to know a possible cause or usual cause of this. Thanks again for the help @mattytrog

Maybe leaving it under constant power,,,
Im not sure if its constant live circuit

Always full power down when away and unplug

Also any chip can go bad just the silicone lottery i guess

 

[mattytrog]

Well, I learned something new. The switch won't turn on the fan when in RCM. I tought the battery was dead but it was at 100%
I was able to push the hekate payload from the pc so the switch seems fine.

At this point, i guess the trinket is dead, right?

What causes that to happen? I might have been too rough with the trinket at first so I'm sure it was my fault but I'd like to know a possible cause or usual cause of this. Thanks again for the help @mattytrog

A short somewhere. I`ve popped several (though not insude the switch).

Post a pic of your installation and we will take a look

 

[redmagejosh]

A short somewhere. I`ve popped several (though not insude the switch).

Post a pic of your installation and we will take a look

Well can't post it now. I've remove it fron the switch. Will order a new one. Thanks.