Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

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RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[mattytrog]

Nice same files as trinket m0?

The pins are numbered different. Slight code change needed. Might make a different thread about the Gemma.

 

[64Dp128k]

The pins are numbered different. Slight code change needed. Might make a different thread about the Gemma.

Ok thanks what are the benifits of gemma

 

[mattytrog]

Ok thanks what are the benifits of gemma

None really. Both do same job. The Gemma is a tiny bit thinner I think. Bigger pads... And at this time in stock at more places than the trinket. Everyone jumping on the trinket bandwagon. Can't buy a 3v m0 here at the moment. Looked everywhere. I think.

 

[64Dp128k]

None really. Both do same job. The Gemma is a tiny bit thinner I think. Bigger pads... And at this time in stock at more places than the trinket. Everyone jumping on the trinket bandwagon. Can't buy a 3v m0 here at the moment. Looked everywhere. I think.

Cool thanks can you share.the Gemma files still need to make a new dongle and Gemma looks like a coin cell case would do perfect. If I cant get to the joycon rail since I sripped one of the screws to open switch, any way around this if I want to do an internal install?

 

[mattytrog]

Cool thanks can you share.the Gemma files still need to make a new dongle and Gemma looks like a coin cell case would do perfect

Will do. I think I made a thread that got buried thinking about it with a couple of files. Will do a thread later

 

[subcon959]

No. Personal preference. Easier replacing a SMD cap than replacing a QFP leg or whole package even.

I only solder to legs of ICs if I have to.

Guess I'm just used to the legs as most retro console mods seemed to require lifting the leg of an IC and soldering to it.

 

[mattytrog]

Guess I'm just used to the legs as most retro console mods seemed to require lifting the leg of an IC and soldering to it.

They sure did!

 

[crow132]

Well, I was about to get my trinket m0 from a retailer here in spain, would you recommend me move on to the gemma?

 

[mattytrog]

Well, I was about to get my trinket m0 from a retailer here in spain, would you recommend me move on to the gemma?

Its up to you.

For our purposes, they function just the same. But you will need to remove more components... USB port (as usual), power switch and the battery header. We won`t be using any of those components anyway apart from USB pads.

 

[slslasher]

For method 2, does it mean it will be auto booted into rcm since the volume up button is being solder? If I use the u2 files but did not solder the volume up button will it work? I want to manually hold volume up button to boot into rcm.

For the pin 4, u said to ground it to reset. Does it mean that I need to install my own switch so it will be a open circuit?

 

[Mthodmn101]

Is there a method that does not use autorcm and does not leave the trinket powered on all the time?

 

[LineoftheDead]

Lineofthedead wow, Thanks for the video but still to scary for me. do you do commisions? and if so how much do you charge for installation?

send me a PM

 

[noX1609]

@mattytrog: Thanks for the explanation.
If i understood all correctly i have to find the GND Point of the switch and not the pin(s) that goes to the Positive (where i can messure the Volt value) right?
After changeing my wireing i have to flash the file on the first Page right?

With this installation is it still possible to boot Stock OS if i only press Power and RCM when i want to boot SX OS?
In fact i don‘t wire Pin 0 up because if i do that it will simulate pressing the Vol+ so i can only boot to sx os, right?
Last question about the new Tutorial/Code: Does the LED‘s work as on the old one so it shows if it found RCM or not? And does it go to Sleep after injecting or does it shut down completely also the switch is powered on?

Could you also explain why this method is not draining the battery?
Because only change is that wire 4 is not used anymore and 3V Pin is used instead of bat and is wired to the Point Pin 4 was connected to. Don‘t understand why this stops the Trinket from flattening the Switch battery.

Sorry for asking so many question
It‘s because german is my native language so often i don‘t know the right word for something so i have to descibe what i mean. Also i don‘t want to destroy something so i better ask if something is not completely clear to me

 

[mattytrog]

Is there a method that does not use autorcm and does not leave the trinket powered on all the time?

Yes. Method 2

 

[Soluble]

Awesome job!

 

[crow132]

sad to see hekate doesn't work properly, I think the autoboot option of that payload fits this mod perfectly

 

[mattytrog]

@mattytrog: Thanks for the explanation.
If i understood all correctly i have to find the GND Point of the switch and not the pin(s) that goes to the Positive (where i can messure the Volt value) right?
After changeing my wireing i have to flash the file on the first Page right?

I`m assuming you are referring to vol+? Yes.
Flash a method 1 / 2 file.

@mattytrogWith this installation is it still possible to boot Stock OS if i only press Power and RCM when i want to boot SX OS?
In fact i don‘t wire Pin 0 up because if i do that it will simulate pressing the Vol+ so i can only boot to sx os, right?

If you don`t wire up pin 0 to volume, and do not have AutoRCM switched on, then pressing power will result in a normal boot. If you hold down vol+ then the trinket will take over, loading SXOS / Hekate. OP updated with new picture in method 2.

@mattytrogLast question about the new Tutorial/Code: Does the LED‘s work as on the old one so it shows if it found RCM or not? And does it go to Sleep after injecting or does it shut down completely also the switch is powered on?

Yes the LEDs work. It will sleep for a time and then completely switch off.

@mattytrogCould you also explain why this method is not draining the battery?
Because only change is that wire 4 is not used anymore and 3V Pin is used instead of bat and is wired to the Point Pin 4 was connected to. Don‘t understand why this stops the Trinket from flattening the Switch battery.

It isn`t the only change! Do not connect anything to BAT. The point pin 4 WAS connected to, is the new power supply to the trinket. It goes to 3V on the trinket.

@mattytrogSorry for asking so many question
It‘s because german is my native language so often i don‘t know the right word for something so i have to descibe what i mean. Also i don‘t want to destroy something so i better ask if something is not completely clear to me

No problem

 

[noX1609]

@mattytrog: Ok thanks for your help.

That‘s exactly what i want because so i have the method to directly Boot OFW or CFW if Power and Vol+ is wired
Will change my soldering today and flash the new file you created (first post).
I‘m happy now

 

[mattytrog]

@mattytrog: Ok thanks for your help.

That‘s exactly what i want because so i have the method to directly Boot OFW or CFW if Power and Vol+ is wired
Will change my soldering today and flash the new file you created (first post).
I‘m happy now

Don`t be happy yet! Make sure it works first

 

[crow132]

Hey, now that hekate 3.2 is out, could you show us how to create or convert the payload to use with the trinket please?

Thank you.