Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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noX1609

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@mattytrog: Looks nice but i don‘t want to use autoRCM. Is it still possible to wire pin3 to pin 10 of the rail and have the trinket do the RCM or is that removed in the coding?
 

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@mattytrog: sounds great :) But why do you have to press the reset button once to get it to send the payload?
With the code i actually use i don‘t have to press the reset button but there is Pin 4 connected to the point where you connected the 3V point (why did you wire it to 3V and not BAT?) of the trinket.
Would be great if it would work as before so on boot i only need to press Power + Vol+ buttons.

So if i wire it as displayed in OP and Pin 3 to Pin 10 on the rail does that stop the trinket draining the battery of the switch when powered of or in sleep mode or is it better to install one of the chips you linked a few posts before the actual post?
And if so how do i have to wire the chip? Because there are 6 Points on it (In+, In-, B+, B- and two ports only labeled with + and -). If you could help with that i would try it.
Is there a extra file that has to be flashed on this board?

EDIT: Talking about that board: https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Micro-USB-...6428636?varId=572203917031&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1
 
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mattytrog

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@mattytrog: sounds great :) But why do you have to press the reset button once to get it to send the payload?
With the code i actually use i don‘t have to press the reset button but there is Pin 4 connected to the point where you connected the 3V point (why did you wire it to 3V and not BAT?) of the trinket.
Would be great if it would work as before so on boot i only need to press Power + Vol+ buttons.

So if i wire it as displayed in OP and Pin 3 to Pin 10 on the rail does that stop the trinket draining the battery of the switch when powered of or in sleep mode or is it better to install one of the chips you linked a few posts before the actual post?
And if so how do i have to wire the chip? Because there are 6 Points on it (In+, In-, B+, B- and two ports only labeled with + and -). If you could help with that i would try it.
Is there a extra file that has to be flashed on this board?

EDIT: Talking about that board: https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Micro-USB-...6428636?varId=572203917031&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1

You don`t have to press reset.

Reset is there in case you need it. Just to check the console is completely shut off.

Turn console off, wait for it powering off, if you want to check it is off... Press the reset button. If it boots, then it isn`t off and it was in RCM.

I`m in process of rewriting the OP and putting various methods up. I`ll link to yours too if OK :)
 

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got a couple of questions

1- what if we have to update the payload?

2- can this allow us to boot linux too?

thank you
 

mattytrog

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got a couple of questions

1- what if we have to update the payload?

2- can this allow us to boot linux too?

thank you

My pc insert the word boring. It must find me boring!

1 - when at switch home screen, plug in to computer, double press the back cover to reset, you will enter bootloader mode. I recommend using SX loader and putting your payloads on SD card and using from SX os

2 - yes.
 
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noX1609

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You don`t have to press reset.

Reset is there in case you need it. Just to check the console is completely shut off.

Turn console off, wait for it powering off, if you want to check it is off... Press the reset button. If it boots, then it isn`t off and it was in RCM.

I`m in process of rewriting the OP and putting various methods up. I`ll link to yours too if OK :)
Sounds great, looking forward seeing the new install :)
And this method stops the trinket from draining the battery?
 

mattytrog

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Sounds great, looking forward seeing the new install :)
And this method stops the trinket from draining the battery?

Yep, sure does :)

In process of updating OP.

For the least faffing around, this method is the best. And I have looked at them all.
 

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Yep, sure does :)

In process of updating OP.

For the least faffing around, this method is the best. And I have looked at them all.
Saw there are already things changed :)
I will go with Method 2.
So where exactly does Pin 4 needs to be soldered?
Because in the first tutorials that were made Pin 4 was connected to the same Point where the 3V is now soldered to.
Could you please insert a picture? That would be great :)
Only thing i will not do is soldering a wire from Pin 0 to the board because i want to have the ability to boot stock OS when only pressing Power and Power + Vol+ to boot SX OS. This should work if i don‘t solder Pin 0 right?
 

mattytrog

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Saw there are already things changed :)
I will go with Method 2.
So where exactly does Pin 4 needs to be soldered?
Because in the first tutorials that were made Pin 4 was connected to the same Point where the 3V is now soldered to.
Could you please insert a picture? That would be great :)
Only thing i will not do is soldering a wire from Pin 0 to the board because i want to have the ability to boot stock OS when only pressing Power and Power + Vol+ to boot SX OS. This should work if i don‘t solder Pin 0 right?

I`ll post a pic later this afternoon. Bit busy today cutting hedges and trying to resuscitate our scorched lawn. But you can buzz it out with a multimeter. Look next to the fan, you will see two tiny ribbon connectors... One of these ribbon connectors (the top one if memory serves) is to the row of switches on the switch.

Put one lead of meter to ground (stick it into a joycon rail screwhole or something, check you have continuity by touching the heatsink or RAM shielding or something and have a probe around while pressing power (with batt disconnected obviously). When pressing power, if meter beeps then you have found your point. Press power a couple of times to confirm. Solder pin 4 to this. You will need to remove fan and heatpipe and maybe (almost definitely) cartridge reader connector.
 
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mattytrog

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Gemma M0 fitted.

Still plenty of air flow.

Seems a shade thinner than a trinket.
 

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