Tutorial  Updated

Almost perfect 3000 mah battery mod

This is a 3.7volt lithium polymer battery. Ive burnt into the wii u pad to modify some space...got very close to some wires so didnt go further. But look at the results, and the nerf casing holds it like a lid.i wrapped the battery itself in electric tape and then used regular tap to make sure it dont slide around. After holding it in my hands i realized i dont even feel the lump because its in the middle where my fingers dont reach 20181013_002027.jpg




UPDATE, I PERFECTED IT WAS KINDA RISKY. So after i inserted battery wii u controller wouldn't turn on so i noticed it got disconnected and the white tape wire also had a small cut across it. I put electric tape over it, and opened the lid at the connector...had to solder out more plastic to reach it, then stuck wire back on and closed lid. It worked after that. P.S the way to do a cleaner job would be to get the screw driver, remove the whole bottom plastic(even though i took 1/3 off), and follow the solder pictures. my battery is on a very slight slant, but there is no pressure put on it due to the extra open, its not gonna slide anywhere, and in my option the battery has air flow. I covered the whole battery in electric tap because i had it in my psp prior, i did order a new but couldnt wait and i noticed some white stuff on bottom, came off the battery. I then realized all batteries have a sticker skin on them, but am not sure how itll affect it now.
 

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Last edited by Demix,

Demix

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You can buy a 100,000 mah solar power bank or 250,000. I opened it up and found a very small 1000 or 2000 battery xD
 

zantzue

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I was thinking...why don't I use a cellular phone battery instead? I found this one. It's an original 3,000-mah LG battery (3.8V) selled by Amazon. Its dimensions are 7,5 x 5 x 0,5 cm so it would fit. The problem is that I would have to solder it (I don't have a solder station).
 

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I was thinking...why don't I use a cellular phone battery instead? I found this one. It's an original 3,000-mah LG battery (3.8V) selled by Amazon. Its dimensions are 7,5 x 5 x 0,5 cm so it would fit. The problem is that I would have to solder it (I don't have a solder station).
I bought 1 on ebay for 20. But its higher volt, max is 3.7 but according the my electric class that .1 difference should work, but it may slowly kill the pad
 
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zantzue

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I bought a digital multimeter on ebay. The old price was about 120€ (I don't remember right now) but the price has dropped to 23€. It is a (semi)professional one. The multimeter says that the LG battery (cellular phone) has a voltage of 3.838V and the chinese battery of "2,500mah" (its real capacity is not that high) has a voltage of 3.865V (it was supposed to be 3.7V or so). And, this is the most interesting part, the official battery I opened in order to use its connector has a voltage of 3.796V (I haven't thrown it away yet) when the chip is not connected. This means that the difference between the LG battery an the official one is roughly 0.04V. I'm going to finish my project as I don't think that difference would affect the gamepad. I don't have a soldering station but next week I'll try to connect it somehow. I'll post my progress here.

Edit: I haven't soldered it yet but I managed to connect the battery to the connector, I charged the battery by using the gamepad and I used it yesterday for 2h and 7'. The gamepad says the battery still has 3 bars out of 4.

Edit2: I continued playing today and after one more hour the orange light lit. The battery lasted a little bit more than 3 hours. It seems to me that I am doing something wrong (I trust it's a real 3,000mah battery).
 
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Demix

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I bought a digital multimeter on ebay. The old price was about 120€ (I don't remember right now) but the price has dropped to 23€. It is a (semi)professional one. The multimeter says that the LG battery (cellular phone) has a voltage of 3.838V and the chinese battery of "2,500mah" (its real capacity is not that high) has a voltage of 3.865V (it was supposed to be 3.7V or so). And, this is the most interesting part, the official battery I opened in order to use its connector has a voltage of 3.796V (I haven't thrown it away yet) when the chip is not connected. This means that the difference between the LG battery an the official one is roughly 0.04V. I'm going to finish my project as I don't think that difference would affect the gamepad. I don't have a soldering station but next week I'll try to connect it somehow. I'll post my progress here.

Edit: I haven't soldered it yet but I managed to connect the battery to the connector, I charged the battery by using the gamepad and I used it yesterday for 2h and 7'. The gamepad says the battery still has 3 bars out of 4.

Edit2: I continued playing today and after one more hour the orange light lit. The battery lasted a little bit more than 3 hours. It seems to me that I am doing something wrong (I trust it's a real 3,000mah battery).
You can use electric tape if u can make it hold together. Did u try lowering the screen brightness to lowest and rumble off? Its what i did to max battery life
 

Demix

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You can use electric tape if u can make it hold together. Did u try lowering the screen brightness to lowest and rumble off? Its what i did to max battery life

Also electric class taught me that the voltage can be plus or minus 10% of the rate, but that was for an electric motor not sure if same applies for smaller electronics
 

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Bump, not waiting for a reply. This post is a year old and has reached the depths of the forum. Some 1 may find this useful a year later now
 
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moses_373

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This is a 3.7volt lithium polymer battery. Ive burnt into the wii u pad to modify some space...got very close to some wires so didnt go further. But look at the results, and the nerf casing holds it like a lid.i wrapped the battery itself in electric tape and then used regular tap to make sure it dont slide around. After holding it in my hands i realized i dont even feel the lump because its in the middle where my fingers dont reachView attachment 146368




UPDATE, I PERFECTED IT WAS KINDA RISKY. So after i inserted battery wii u controller wouldn't turn on so i noticed it got disconnected and the white tape wire also had a small cut across it. I put electric tape over it, and opened the lid at the connector...had to solder out more plastic to reach it, then stuck wire back on and closed lid. It worked after that. P.S the way to do a cleaner job would be to get the screw driver, remove the whole bottom plastic(even though i took 1/3 off), and follow the solder pictures. my battery is on a very slight slant, but there is no pressure put on it due to the extra open, its not gonna slide anywhere, and in my option the battery has air flow. I covered the whole battery in electric tap because i had it in my psp prior, i did order a new but couldnt wait and i noticed some white stuff on bottom, came off the battery. I then realized all batteries have a sticker skin on them, but am not sure how itll affect it now.

I may have to look into something like this since I missed my chance to pick up an official high capacity battery
 

somelias

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i REALLY hate to resurrect an old thread, but in case anyone is looking to do something like this (to ANYTHING from controllers to any other handheld electronic that uses 3.7v li-ion batteries), li-po (polymer) batteries are labeled by size. the 6-7 digit numbers are thickness x lenght x width. the OPs battery was a 6050105 which is 6mm x 50mm x 105mm (way too long). please don't take his approach and massacre your gamepad. there are SEVERAL sizes that fit without modification and are much higher capacity. the one i like to use in these is a 855085 (4200mah). it fit with little wiggle room in the battery compartment without requiring any cutting to the casing. you can find them on ebay, amazon, or any chinese outfit for $10-$15. if you're going to do this, ALWAYS check the polarity to make sure they weren't shipped with backwards wires. it's a common occurrence when buying mass produced chinese batteries. when you get your battery just snip the connector, check polarity and solder it to the appropriate pads on the charging module you pulled out of the nintendo battery. wrap the module in (preferably) kapton tape, but electrical tape will work. no need to wrap the battery in tape as it's already in a protective wrapper. i like to use a small peice of double sided adhesive to keep it in place. AGAIN sorry to resurrect such an old thread.
 

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