Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[mattytrog]

Itsy, i meant. It won't show up now after it's installed in the switch as a usb device. i have the switch powered off.

It won`t do. You need to be booted into Horizon (the switch OS) and once on home screen, double-press reset. Led may turn green and show up ITSYBOOT or it may turn red. If the light is red, unplug and replug USB.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Trinket version of ShaXLoader added to OP.

 

[azxc]

It won`t do. You need to be booted into Horizon (the switch OS) and once on home screen, double-press reset. Led may turn green and show up ITSYBOOT or it may turn red. If the light is red, unplug and replug USB.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Trinket version of ShaXLoader added to OP.

Thanks for all of your help! Flashed SXOS UF2 files and it works well! Couldn't seem to get the ShaXLoader to work on my itsy but ill tinker more with it later. Today was well spent !

EDIT: what brand of epoxy do you use? I tend to use hot glue. super glue is conductive!!! I've borked more ps2s back in the day with super glue than what my childhood allowance could handle...this lesson has been learned the hard way when i was a neat freak with tidying up loose wires. I will personally never use super glue anywhere near electronics ever again as i have had childhood PTSD with all the money i've wasted . It shorts, pulls components/mask/traces off the board... Not a good time. Not to mention if you hit it with your soldering iron it turns into a toxic gas that burns your eyes, i wish i was joking. Almost went blind once messing around in the ps2 modchip days because acetone wasn't getting it off. It's nothing but bad news

 

[azxc]

Edit

 

[mattytrog]

Thanks for all of your help! Flashed SXOS UF2 files and it works well! Couldn't seem to get the ShaXLoader to work on my itsy but ill tinker more with it later. Today was well spent !

EDIT: what brand of epoxy do you use? I tend to use hot glue. super glue is conductive!!! I've borked more ps2s back in the day with super glue than what my childhood allowance could handle...this lesson has been learned the hard way when i was a neat freak with tidying up loose wires. I will personally never use super glue anywhere near electronics ever again as i have had childhood PTSD with all the money i've wasted . It shorts, pulls components/mask/traces off the board... Not a good time. Not to mention if you hit it with your soldering iron it turns into a toxic gas that burns your eyes, i wish i was joking. Almost went blind once messing around in the ps2 modchip days because acetone wasn't getting it off. It's nothing but bad news

Try dipping a cotton bud / qtip in superglue. It BURNS! Try it.

Have another go with ShaX. Just so I know my instructions are clear enough. They probably aren`t though...

 

[morganno]

hi mattytrog,
I still have not found on the forum the
private message.
I have installed your image well I am with another error I send you the picture.
I'm going to be crazy

 

[mattytrog]

hi mattytrog,
I still have not found on the forum the
private message.
I have installed your image well I am with another error I send you the picture.
I'm going to be crazy

View attachment 141254

cd bootloader

 

[Kobazzoni]

Will be fine. I`ve just repaired a switch with both of those 0402 size caps missing, and the 0201 sized cap in the row of 4 above it. Don`t attempt THAT one when full of caffeine and shaking!

The values of the capacitors are (the upper one) - 4.7uF 6.3v 0402 MLCC cap
the lower one (circled) is 2.2uF 6.3v 0402 MLCC

You will probably get away with 4v caps. But the bigger the better.

Tried to resolder the 3V cap, but still not charging. The diode that M-O-B mentioned on the bottom towards the USB port seems to be OK after doing the diode test. The 3V cap from the pic could still be the issue, but I am afraid it's just too small for me to really see what I am doing.

Is anyone open to the idea to have me sent the console, so that someone can have a look? My son is really bugging me to have it fixed. Not sure if someone is based in the Netherlands, but sending it outside within the surrounding countries wouldn't cause any problem for me. I can send it by DHL from work.

Thanks.

 

[wiiando]

Here's my install so far! Just need a way to get 3V you can see where i borked a cap and the original 3v line guys...


View attachment 141189 View attachment 141190

Why are you using such long lengths of wire?

I'd personally say to give it to someone else before you cause more damage, not that i'm a expert but if you've broken one of those caps (which imo is hard to do) then you should just stop.

What's with using epoxy or glue? if you have faith in your soldering skills glue or anything isn't needed, the switch doesn't get hot enough to melt solder.

 

[mattytrog]

Why are you using such long lengths of wire?

I'd personally say to give it to someone else before you cause more damage, not that i'm a expert but if you've broken one of those caps (which imo is hard to do) then you should just stop.

What's with using epoxy or glue? if you have faith in your soldering skills glue or anything isn't needed, the switch doesn't get hot enough to melt solder.

Very true. However, if you are using anything thicker than 30AWG, the mechanical advantage of solid-core wire being flexed or accidentally touched (we have all done it) will take a cap / trace right off. Thats why I advise epoxy to provide strain relief.

 

[morganno]

cd bootloader

I made a dcd bootloader and I make a dit to see what is in the directories.
if you want I can do a screenshot of openocd.cfg file

 

[M-O-B]

Tried to resolder the 3V cap, but still not charging. The diode that M-O-B mentioned on the bottom towards the USB port seems to be OK after doing the diode test. The 3V cap from the pic could still be the issue, but I am afraid it's just too small for me to really see what I am doing.

Is anyone open to the idea to have me sent the console, so that someone can have a look? My son is really bugging me to have it fixed. Not sure if someone is based in the Netherlands, but sending it outside within the surrounding countries wouldn't cause any problem for me. I can send it by DHL from work.

Thanks.

not sure exactly what cap you bugger up if that's what's happened, instead of farting around with a cap in a small space.

if you intend to install using that caps 3.2v point for trinket power then will make this a bit better.

on your trinket solder a 4.7 cap or what ever value you need to the bat and gnd pads on the trinket.

like this yellow box shows.

then solder the bat pad wire to the 3.2v caps pad.

this will do the same job as if it was on its original points on mobo.

I know that one of them caps stop a switch from charging and work via the dock, but charged ok via normal use cable in a pc.

if I recall it was the bottom cap.

 

[mattytrog]

Tried to resolder the 3V cap, but still not charging. The diode that M-O-B mentioned on the bottom towards the USB port seems to be OK after doing the diode test. The 3V cap from the pic could still be the issue, but I am afraid it's just too small for me to really see what I am doing.

Is anyone open to the idea to have me sent the console, so that someone can have a look? My son is really bugging me to have it fixed. Not sure if someone is based in the Netherlands, but sending it outside within the surrounding countries wouldn't cause any problem for me. I can send it by DHL from work.

Thanks.

Sure. I

not sure exactly what cap you bugger up if that's what's happened, instead of farting around with a cap in a small space.

if you intend to install using that caps 3.2v point for trinket power then will make this a bit better.

on your trinket solder a 4.7 cap or what ever value you need to the bat and gnd pads on the trinket.

like this yellow box shows.View attachment 141284

then solder the bat pad wire to the 3.2v caps pad.

this will do the same job as if it was on its original points on mobo.

I know that one of them caps stop a switch from charging and work via the dock, but charged ok via normal use cable in a pc.

if I recall it was the bottom cap.

If the trinket is connected, the capacitor on the trinket should be doing the same job. It is fitted after the (reductant) ldo regulator and directly connected to 3v and gnd. I struggling recalling value... 2.2uF I think.

You don't need more then one cap on there.

 

[wiiando]

Very true. However, if you are using anything thicker than 30AWG, the mechanical advantage of solid-core wire being flexed or accidentally touched (we have all done it) will take a cap / trace right off. Thats why I advise epoxy to provide strain relief.

Ye I can understand that, but using anything bigger than 30AWG shouldn't really happen, it's tight in there as is, solder points wise at least, as you say you could easily rip something up, my gripe with glue of any kind is the removal if anything needs fixing or altering in the future.

 

[mattytrog]

Ye I can understand that, but using anything bigger than 30AWG shouldn't really happen, it's tight in there as is, solder points wise at least, as you say you could easily rip something up, my gripe with glue of any kind is the removal if anything needs fixing or altering in the future.

Superglue is terrible to use on circuitboards. Need to be so careful with adhesives.

When we used to manufacture panels, we used to loom the wires up and use cable ties. But wire coming off 0402 caps do require something. Personally, I use AWG40. Glue isn`t required then

 

[evilsperm]

No issues saving fuses...

If you leave reset disconnected, it becomes method 1

IF you have autoRCM enabled, connecting a USB charger when switch is completely off will put it in RCM

Based on what you have said, method 3 would be your best bet to ATTEMPT to save fuses... But just ONE boot with the trinket not working (ie if you have a charger plugged in)will fry your fuses...

Its a REALLY REALLY bad idea to attempt to save fuses without autoRCM, and almost certain to fail at some point

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------



Well make one then!

This thread is for trinket / gemma / itsybitsy support.

A lot of issues and solutions in this thread will be applicable to any SAMD based chip.

Its been a good thread up to now... Lets keep on topic.

I agree keep this thread on topic
Yes you can apply anything here to the SwitchME as in its basic form its just a samd21
Once people have them in hand by all means please update this thread with the SwitchME as well.
There is no reason to reinvent the wheel

 

[mattytrog]

I agree keep this thread on topic
Yes you can apply anything here to the SwitchME as in its basic form its just a samd21
Once people have them in hand by all means please update this thread with the SwitchME as well.
There is no reason to reinvent the wheel

Absolutely. More than happy to support. The samd21 is becoming the defacto method for "chipping" switches (I hate that term).

As soon as a batch is available, I'd gladly but a couple of units. The amount of samd21s I have sat round here is getting silly...

I`d even settle for a bootloader binary to get some files out there!

 

[M-O-B]

Sure. I


If the trinket is connected, the capacitor on the trinket should be doing the same job. It is fitted after the (reductant) ldo regulator and directly connected to 3v and gnd. I struggling recalling value... 2.2uF I think.

You don't need more then one cap on there.

now I remember the fix I had to do post 19 in this thread, the cap was 4.7uf. the area had a bit of damage aswell as the cap missing.

https://gbatemp.net/threads/trinket-internal-install.509633/page-19

was a pain but got it up and running..

 

[azxc]

Why are you using such long lengths of wire?

I'd personally say to give it to someone else before you cause more damage, not that i'm a expert but if you've broken one of those caps (which imo is hard to do) then you should just stop.

What's with using epoxy or glue? if you have faith in your soldering skills glue or anything isn't needed, the switch doesn't get hot enough to melt solder.

I'm a neat freak with wires and tend to make them look pretty, it is a habit that has screwed me over more than once, but its especially important with my clear switch shell. Also if there's a wire that stray away on top of a screw hole when your putting things together it will crush/break the wire. Usually hot glue does the trick to tack it down, but epoxy sounds way more neat and dope ifi t releases instantly with acetone. Never got around to figuring out any other adhesive other than hot glue that works on circuit boards after the super glue fiasco. Wasn't going to risk it. The main rason my 3v cap line borked at first was because the wire lifted and the joint was strong enough to bork it, not trying to do that to the 3v im currently using on chip also.

The install was successful and i bought some 40 awg to repair the cap traces mistakes were made. that was my first mistake, thinking 30awg was a good idea for the tiny 3v cap trace. I also need a micro soldering station instead of my thicc hakko tip. I'm too impatient. Had a ton of coffee also, i'm an addict.

 

[mattytrog]

Had a ton of coffee also, i'm an addict.

This. Me. Fooking Too!

Epoxy is the best adhesive to use. It is used for potting PCBs and also for anti-tamper purposes on ICs. I remember it well from the X360 days!

 

[Eduba]

@mattytrog THANKS for sharing the ItsyBitsy Files!

finished my ItsyBitsyTinyPayloadThingy

i took a broken bluetooth controller and salvaged its 180mah battery (yeah i know its complete overkill), sandwiched it between a charging board and the itsy bitsy, connected a switch in between the charging board Output and the BAT Pin. The Charging Board gets its Power from the USB Pin. I Also only had to connect the charging Boards GND to G on the ity bitsy. Normaly i would use the GND Wire to put a switch in between but this way i would have had to press the Button all the time for charging... pretty inconvinient aaand of course designed and printed a "case" for it. I like the "DIY" look so i dont put lids on both sides (only a little bit on the itsy bitsy side to keep it in place) the rest of the case is a pretty tight fit. didnt had to glue except for the tactile switch.

I ordered some USB-C male breakout boards and will add a proper connection to it as soon as they arive. there is a little space between the wires of the switch. i will try to keep it as compact as possible.

Hope to see some more updates for it and sorry for bad english