Tutorial  Updated

Trinket Internal Install.

Here's A Guide To Installing The Trinket M0 Into The Switch.

Program The Trinket Before You Remove The Usb Port, Saves You Doing It After You Complete The Install.

First Thing To Do Is Remove The Usb Port From The Trinket, If You Have A Hot Air Wand Then Use That To Remove The Port It Will Reduce The Risk Of Damage To The Pads.

usb intact.jpg


Now That The Usb Port Has Been Removed You Want To Solder Wire To The Data Pads, White = Data- And Green Data+ In This Guide.

Now Solder Wire To The Bat Pad = Red, Gnd Pad = Black, Pad 4 = Orange & Pad 3 = Brown In This Guide.

Also Remove The Resistor Next To The Ppower Led Mark Out In Purple In This Guide.
Trinket Points.jpg


When You Have The Trinket All Prepared, You Can Now Proceed To The Install To The Switch.
trinket install points.jpg


Once The Install Is Completely Done Then Clean Up The Points You Have Soldered To Using Isopropyl And Cotton Buds/Q-Tips.
Finished.jpg



Alternative Point For Pad 4.

Altternative Pad 4 Point.jpg


Alternative Points For Joycon Rail Pin 10.

If You Decide On Using This Alternative Point Then Use Enamel Coated Jumper Wire 0.10mm.

Alt Joycon Rail Pin 10 Point.jpg


Remember Take Your Time It's Not A Race lol. Rushing Can Lead To Mistakes.

Tools Required.

Kynar Wire 30 AWG.
Soldering Iron.
Hot Air Wand For Usb Port Removal(Optional)
Isopropyl.
Cotton Bud/Q-Tips.
Flux.
Solder.
Enamel Jumper Wire (Optional)


Thanks And Credit Goes To Xboxexpert For This Solution.

I Think That Covers Everything.

EDIT..

here's another method for the install of the trinket, this method does away with the pad 4, as some may find it tricky to solder to the cap used on the mobo.

the rst pad is used instead and the wire is linked to the power button, Also this has a bonus that you can double press the power button to put the trinket into boot loader mode for uploading a new payload.

of course you don't have to use the rst pad at all, you can't just press power button and volume up button, then press reset button for rcm mode.

this method should be ok for the novices.

install at your own risk.

another install.jpg


the pad on the power button to use.

power button point.jpg


i have one more method to try but I really think this one is not to bad method.

the more methods the better I say, of course to try and make it as easy as possible for pros and novices.

EDIT...
another method for the install of the trinket.

this method is basically same as all other methods, just a different points uses for the bat pad and rst pad.

this install will allow you to have the trinket power off when you fully power off the switch.

double press the reset button on the trinket to get into boot loader mode, this may take a couple of attempts to do.

the payload that you use already will work with this method no need for new ones.

here's the diagram for method 3, you could possibly have this as a 4 wire install, if you install auto rcm mode, but as my sd card module port is buggerd I couldn't test that out.

twinket power off.jpg


ok it seems method 3 needs auto rcm installed for it to work without the need to use the rst pad

so for them that don't want to use auto rcm mode then solder a wire from rst pad to the point on the power button, and use pad 3 to the pin 10 on the joycon rail or one of the alt points on mobo.

beware the alt points are small so use at your own risk.

ok anyone with changing issues test these 2 points, you should get 5v on the usb port side, and around 3.2v on the switch side.

if your getting the volts on the switch side that are fluctuating up & down then replace the part with the v on top it's a diode, you want one that fits so the actual size is either 0402 or 0603 in dimension (i'm using 0402/0603 as an example for size purpose only)

around page 16 has more info about this component..

dont come moaning if you damage your console doing this install, i'm not responsible for you opening or taking a soldering iron to your console.
you do this at your own risk any damage is down to yourself.


charger_issue_volts.jpg


another thing if your trinket starts to get very hot to the point you can't touch it, then the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic is on it's way out, so you will need to replace the ic or just replace your trinket.

at some point it wont power up after this has happened.
1 = gets very hot.
2 = reset starts to become tempermental .
3 = dead
4 = fix replace the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic

edit

added uf2 drag and drop files for r4 trinket gemma dongles or for a 4 wire internal install.

atmosphere
hekate 4.2
Sxos
rajnx
reinx
 

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re.lax

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Just finished my install and it works perfectly. i won't lie i was intimated at first as everything is a lot more tiny then the pictures make it out to be lol. Everything went smoothly tho and was overall a very clean install. Thanks for all the information in the tut that make it that much easier.
 
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Lil_SpazJoekp

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Just finished my install and it works perfectly. i won't lie i was intimated at first as everything is a lot more tiny then the pictures make it out to be lol. Everything went smoothly tho and was overall a very clean install. Thanks for all the information in the tut that make it that much easier.
Which method did you use? I’m just having some issues.
 
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I have 3 sitting around waiting for the install now and the stupid OS codes are backordered :cry: hopefully they come through so I can do them this weekend grrr =/ I wish they just sold the codes direct, this "go through reseller" bs is a pain in the arse, you either deal with no replies after payment or don't get codes in any sort of timely manner.:gun::whip:
 

Lil_SpazJoekp

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Method 3 with rst pad to the power button and pad 3 to the alternative pin 10 on the main board.
What kind of issues are you encountering?
It’s not injecting the payload and I’m not able to update the trinket. Yeah I did the same but with the rst to the volume - pad and I used 30awg solid wrapping wire. It cause me issues when I was installing the jtag chip in my Xbox 360. What I think the issue is with the 30awg wire is it acts as a resistor. So I ordered 28awg stranded wire that I got today and tomorrow I’m going to swap the wires out and see if that fixes it. Also when I had the trinket installed, the SX pro dongle wouldn’t work.
 
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re.lax

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It’s not injecting the payload and I’m not able to update the trinket. Yeah I did the same but with the rst to the volume - pad and I used 30awg solid wrapping wire. It cause me issues when I was installing the jtag chip in my Xbox 360. What I think the issue is with the 30awg wire is it acts as a resistor. So I ordered 28awg stranded wire that I got today and tomorrow I’m going to swap the wires out and see if that fixes it. Also when I had the trinkets installed, the SX pro dongle wouldn’t work.
I used 30 awg so I don’t know if that’ll play a role. By chance do you have the USB - and + backwards or touching together on the trinket or switch at all? Not an expert on this but almost sounds like your USB data bus wires are not communicating properly especially if the dongles not working
 

Lil_SpazJoekp

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I used 30 awg so I don’t know if that’ll play a role. By chance do you have the USB - and + backwards or touching together on the trinket or switch at all? Not an expert on this but almost sounds like your USB data bus wires are not communicating properly especially if the dongles not working
No I checked for continuity between the two and I double checked the USB + and -.
 
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Okay. I’ll do some checking tomorrow.

I love using magnet coil wire but I have a hard time ever getting it to melt the coating at a decent temperature. So I either have to scrape a bit off each end or crank up my soldering station to like 450c to melt it back otherwise you never know if it's even getting a good connection or not.

I guess the just of it is make sure all your connections are good all it takes is one to be off and it won't work out quite right =(

Edit: I use 28 gauge on my mods and as long as the ends are properly tinned and make solid connections it works out great and is easy to manage.
 
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M-O-B

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thanks thats have me all info i needed without the guess work..

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

It’s not injecting the payload and I’m not able to update the trinket. Yeah I did the same but with the rst to the volume - pad and I used 30awg solid wrapping wire. It cause me issues when I was installing the jtag chip in my Xbox 360. What I think the issue is with the 30awg wire is it acts as a resistor. So I ordered 28awg stranded wire that I got today and tomorrow I’m going to swap the wires out and see if that fixes it. Also when I had the trinkets installed, the SX pro dongle wouldn’t work.

it might be helpful if you actually post images of your install and trinket, rather than people trying to guess at what the issue could be.

nothing wrong with 30awg wire so that wont be your issue.

this is nothing like installing a crappy ace v3 or coolrunner into a 360 any fool can install them buggers
 
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efxonly123

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Hello M-O-B or anyone else who may know, my switch works after the trinket install but it no longer charges via the dock or external charger, and the dock blinks green when I connect the switch to it. How could I tell if the issue is with the diode from the USB connecter to the switch side of the board, the m92t36 chip, or the capacitor (that got removed) for the 3.3v pin 4 pad? I noticed that it was mentioned to check the volts on the diode, but is there any other symptoms I should look for to rule out the m92t36 chip or the missing capacitor? Thank you.
 
D

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Just a friendly PSA to anyone doing this, don't go nuts with the glue gun on soldering points we had a poor guy fry his board in the other thread because the glue apparently was conductive.

If you use 28-30 gauge wire and get a good solder connection (flux people use the flux "no clean" preferably) those wires aren't going anywhere unless you yank on them. If you are worried lead them around the components and tape them down with kapton tape.

It's like @M-O-B said, take your time it's not a race. Just be smart and if it's over your head just stop and get help before making a mess.

Hello M-O-B or anyone else who may know, my switch works after the trinket install but it no longer charges via the dock or external charger, and the dock blinks green when I connect the switch to it. How could I tell if the issue is with the diode from the USB connecter to the switch side of the board, the m92t36 chip, or the capacitor (that got removed) for the 3.3v pin 4 pad? I noticed that it was mentioned to check the volts on the diode, but is there any other symptoms I should look for to rule out the m92t36 chip or the missing capacitor? Thank you.

Check the voltages on both sides of this diode. Did you replace the capacitor that came off? As far as the charge controller I'd have to dig up info on it unless it's already posted here. But check those two things first.


The info was a few pages back but here's the main points.
 

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efxonly123

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Just a friendly PSA to anyone doing this, don't go nuts with the glue gun on soldering points we had a poor guy fry his board in the other thread because the glue apparently was conductive.

If you use 28-30 gauge wire and get a good solder connection (flux people use the flux "no clean" preferably) those wires aren't going anywhere unless you yank on them. If you are worried lead them around the components and tape them down with kapton tape.

It's like @M-O-B said, take your time it's not a race. Just be smart and if it's over your head just stop and get help before making a mess.



Check the voltages on both sides of this diode. Did you replace the capacitor that came off? As far as the charge controller I'd have to dig up info on it unless it's already posted here. But check those two things first.



The info was a few pages back but here's the main points.

I checked it briefly yesteday, and noticed that the USB side was fine as far as voltage, but I'm not sure what the reading on the switch side was, so I'll check that again. As for the capacitor, I'm waiting for my micoscrope to arrive on Sunday before I tackle putting it on again because I felt like I was bridging something. I ordered extra diodes just in case, but haven't ordered the chip or another capacitor because I wanted to see if there was a way to rule those parts out of the equation by their function (since I don't know their true function).
 
D

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I checked it briefly yesteday, and noticed that the USB side was fine as far as voltage, but I'm not sure what the reading on the switch side was, so I'll check that again. As for the capacitor, I'm waiting for my micoscrope to arrive on Sunday before I tackle putting it on again because I felt like I was bridging something. I ordered extra diodes just in case, but haven't ordered the chip or another capacitor because I wanted to see if there was a way to rule those parts out of the equation by their function (since I don't know their true function).
The capacitor up top is likely just for filtering. If the diode shows up fine and you see the proper voltage on both ends then we can work on testing the charge controller. usually it's just the diode that blows almost like a fuse which makes it an easy and cheap fix.
 

M-O-B

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this was no fun to fix, when people tend to use big ass irons at 60w then your going to damage stuff
20180714_115522.jpg


but a short time later someone will be happy, now I'll install his trinket just so i don't have to see a mess like this again.

20180714_114624.jpg


4.7uf cap and 10k resistors i used as them was the only 0402 i had in stock, i would think you get away with using 1k, during this fix i also noticed that the damaged trace did not seem to stop the console from working via the dock at all, it was the missing cap that stopped it from charging & working from the dock.

fixed.jpg



Hello M-O-B or anyone else who may know, my switch works after the trinket install but it no longer charges via the dock or external charger, and the dock blinks green when I connect the switch to it. How could I tell if the issue is with the diode from the USB connecter to the switch side of the board, the m92t36 chip, or the capacitor (that got removed) for the 3.3v pin 4 pad? I noticed that it was mentioned to check the volts on the diode, but is there any other symptoms I should look for to rule out the m92t36 chip or the missing capacitor? Thank you.

that is 99% the diode the quick way to test if it is the diode, just bridge it with a jumper wire. ( test purposes only) do not leave the jumper wire on permanent. as soon as you tested if it works via the dock and external charger then remove the jumper wire and buy a replacement diode.
 
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Ferris1000

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this was no fun to fix, when people tend to use big ass irons at 60w then your going to damage stuff
View attachment 135732

but a short time later someone will be happy, now I'll install his trinket just so i don't have to see a mess like this again.

View attachment 135730

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------



that is 99% the diode the quick way to test if it is the diode, just bridge it with a jumper wire. ( test purposes only) do not leave the jumper wire on permanent. as soon as you tested if it works via the dock and external charger then remove the jumper wire and buy a replacement diode.

I'm still confused because you said we need a 2A Diode but the last time I connected the power supply with the Diode jumpered I got 15v into the switch and the power supply says it’s 2.6A at 15V so if we use a 2A diode it seams to be to low and the original power supply would destroy the diode after a few minutes of usage if it really outputs 2.6A.
 

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I'm still confused because you said we need a 2A Diode but the last time I connected the power supply with the Diode jumpered I got 15v into the switch and the power supply says it’s 2.6A at 15V so if we use a 2A diode it seams to be to low and the original power supply would destroy the diode after a few minutes of usage if it really outputs 2.6A.

i never said anything about hte amps, go and look though the tread again and quote the correct person
 

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