Just upgraded my emmc today for a 128gb sk hynix..emmc arrived already reballed. Works like a charm!
Next time i will try with a 256gb but its much more expensive. Next time i will try with a 256gb but its much more expensive.
Guys, here's the pin connection diagram I made
However, this resistor does not seem to be connected?
Post automatically merged:
Guys, here's the pin connection diagram I made
However, this resistor does not seem to be connected?
Last edited by SQc04,
Just wanted to give an update on my Pokemon Let's Go patched V1. I had to disassemble and reassemble a few times to get everything to fit properly in the case and not ruin the glitching process.
Still had a few loose-ish solder points apparently, as when I went and retouched some areas after checking for continuity, I managed to get the Hekate ipl consistently to load.
Thanks to everyone involved in this project, including all the brave souls willing to be on the front line of testing out the newest hardware mod to the scene.
I would post some photos, but I'm too busy reading all the things about how to load different software on this sucker now, ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES!
EDIT to add photos:
I ended up doing the same mod as a few other folks earlier in the forum of installing a ps4 controller flex connector in the stead of the USB C that gets removed. This was my second or third attempt at stripping the flex cable and getting to the pins without bending them. I used a razor blade to scrape the surface away and reveal fresh copper in the flex cable, then tinned them which causes the rest of the flex cable to melt away. Then I tinned the pins on the USB C port and held the flex cable down with some electrical tape and lined up the usb-c with tweezers while hitting the pins with my hot-air station. Once I had a solid connection, I used UV-cure resin to reinforce the solder joint. It is sitting on an American Dime for scale.
This is what the CPU wire looks like when attached using 30awg Kynar. Kynar is not LARGE wire by any means, but these components are certainly a little more challenging with 30awg wire wanting to move... we'll get to that in a second. That is the head of a Q-Tip for referenc scale.
After seeing where the ground points are, I decided on the easy and sure-fire way out of just ground to the leg of the USB-C port.
The 3.3v line was the first tiny spot that I went for, and this was where I learned how valuable uv-cure resin and a UV handheld laserpointer can be to keeping your wires held in place after soldering.
These are the Dat0 and Clk pins prior to getting a UV-cure resin treatment to more permanently hold the wire leads down.
Here are my RST and CMD lines along with the two previous pins after being cured with resin. There is also a wooden toothpick for scale.
This was while things were looking good. I had just gotten the mosfet situated in place on the left cap. As I was feeding the CPU wire through the APU shielding, I jiggled the backend a little too hard and ripped the capacitor clean off the pads, taking the pad closest to the APU completely off, and de-tinning the ground pad... Recovery involved sulking a little, making sure my console still booted to OFW, and then pressing onward to the following...
This abomination is layers of resin used to both mask solder joints from bridging, and to prevent my clumsy self from ripping off my last remaining lifeline to glitching this switch. Am I proud of it? Oddly yes, a little. I had to cut part of my APU shield to make sure this doesn't get disturbed, but WORTH IT. It's nearly unrecognizable at this point, but that is the same MOSFET from earlier on in this post.
Here was my bodged long-wire setup to prove that the pico would work for me. This is the second rp2040 zero that I installed, which ultimately led me to check every last one of my solder joints again. After confirming I could glitch my switch, I swapped back to my flex-cable modded picofly to be able to fully install it with no bulge, but still be able to easily update it through USB to at least make the jump to 2.6 when it's released. As everyone else is hoping, we'll hopefully be able to remotely update future firmwares through the switch (if even needed).
Thank you again for all the insight, and I hope this can provide even a little inspiration (or even an eye-opener to how small-scale this solder job is) for anyone seeking to do this kind of mod to their own switch. It's a real chore, even if you are good at soldering. Things can and will go wrong, even if you do everything right. Just be prepared to fix things if you mess them up. As others have stated, you can ruin your console if you mess up installing these kinds of mods (and several members have openly mentioned that they have learned from losing consoles as experience) but with careful planning and the right tools, you too can own a picofly modded switch.
Still had a few loose-ish solder points apparently, as when I went and retouched some areas after checking for continuity, I managed to get the Hekate ipl consistently to load.
Thanks to everyone involved in this project, including all the brave souls willing to be on the front line of testing out the newest hardware mod to the scene.
I would post some photos, but I'm too busy reading all the things about how to load different software on this sucker now, ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES!
EDIT to add photos:
I ended up doing the same mod as a few other folks earlier in the forum of installing a ps4 controller flex connector in the stead of the USB C that gets removed. This was my second or third attempt at stripping the flex cable and getting to the pins without bending them. I used a razor blade to scrape the surface away and reveal fresh copper in the flex cable, then tinned them which causes the rest of the flex cable to melt away. Then I tinned the pins on the USB C port and held the flex cable down with some electrical tape and lined up the usb-c with tweezers while hitting the pins with my hot-air station. Once I had a solid connection, I used UV-cure resin to reinforce the solder joint. It is sitting on an American Dime for scale.
This is what the CPU wire looks like when attached using 30awg Kynar. Kynar is not LARGE wire by any means, but these components are certainly a little more challenging with 30awg wire wanting to move... we'll get to that in a second. That is the head of a Q-Tip for referenc scale.
After seeing where the ground points are, I decided on the easy and sure-fire way out of just ground to the leg of the USB-C port.
The 3.3v line was the first tiny spot that I went for, and this was where I learned how valuable uv-cure resin and a UV handheld laserpointer can be to keeping your wires held in place after soldering.
These are the Dat0 and Clk pins prior to getting a UV-cure resin treatment to more permanently hold the wire leads down.
Here are my RST and CMD lines along with the two previous pins after being cured with resin. There is also a wooden toothpick for scale.
This was while things were looking good. I had just gotten the mosfet situated in place on the left cap. As I was feeding the CPU wire through the APU shielding, I jiggled the backend a little too hard and ripped the capacitor clean off the pads, taking the pad closest to the APU completely off, and de-tinning the ground pad... Recovery involved sulking a little, making sure my console still booted to OFW, and then pressing onward to the following...
This abomination is layers of resin used to both mask solder joints from bridging, and to prevent my clumsy self from ripping off my last remaining lifeline to glitching this switch. Am I proud of it? Oddly yes, a little. I had to cut part of my APU shield to make sure this doesn't get disturbed, but WORTH IT. It's nearly unrecognizable at this point, but that is the same MOSFET from earlier on in this post.
Here was my bodged long-wire setup to prove that the pico would work for me. This is the second rp2040 zero that I installed, which ultimately led me to check every last one of my solder joints again. After confirming I could glitch my switch, I swapped back to my flex-cable modded picofly to be able to fully install it with no bulge, but still be able to easily update it through USB to at least make the jump to 2.6 when it's released. As everyone else is hoping, we'll hopefully be able to remotely update future firmwares through the switch (if even needed).
Thank you again for all the insight, and I hope this can provide even a little inspiration (or even an eye-opener to how small-scale this solder job is) for anyone seeking to do this kind of mod to their own switch. It's a real chore, even if you are good at soldering. Things can and will go wrong, even if you do everything right. Just be prepared to fix things if you mess them up. As others have stated, you can ruin your console if you mess up installing these kinds of mods (and several members have openly mentioned that they have learned from losing consoles as experience) but with careful planning and the right tools, you too can own a picofly modded switch.
Last edited by lightninjay,
I just had this fault myself on a switch lite (Australia delivered)
After double checking my wiring with a friends scope, I found a bridge on CMD.
After repairing the bridge, I no longer get the emmc slow error.
Attachments
My wafer thin rp2040 board (measured as 1.5mm on a .6mm PCB) powers on and works with picofly! Need to get the rest of the components from the UPS man and send some out for real testing in switches but this is a big step
look goodJust wanted to give an update on my Pokemon Let's Go patched V1. I had to disassemble and reassemble a few times to get everything to fit properly in the case and not ruin the glitching process.
Still had a few loose-ish solder points apparently, as when I went and retouched some areas after checking for continuity, I managed to get the Hekate ipl consistently to load.
Thanks to everyone involved in this project, including all the brave souls willing to be on the front line of testing out the newest hardware mod to the scene.
I would post some photos, but I'm too busy reading all the things about how to load different software on this sucker now, ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES!
EDIT to add photos:
View attachment 362961
I ended up doing the same mod as a few other folks earlier in the forum of installing a ps4 controller flex connector in the stead of the USB C that gets removed. This was my second or third attempt at stripping the flex cable and getting to the pins without bending them. I used a razor blade to scrape the surface away and reveal fresh copper in the flex cable, then tinned them which causes the rest of the flex cable to melt away. Then I tinned the pins on the USB C port and held the flex cable down with some electrical tape and lined up the usb-c with tweezers while hitting the pins with my hot-air station. Once I had a solid connection, I used UV-cure resin to reinforce the solder joint. It is sitting on an American Dime for scale.
View attachment 362962
This is what the CPU wire looks like when attached using 30awg Kynar. Kynar is not LARGE wire by any means, but these components are certainly a little more challenging with 30awg wire wanting to move... we'll get to that in a second. That is the head of a Q-Tip for referenc scale.
View attachment 362969
After seeing where the ground points are, I decided on the easy and sure-fire way out of just ground to the leg of the USB-C port.
View attachment 362970
The 3.3v line was the first tiny spot that I went for, and this was where I learned how valuable uv-cure resin and a UV handheld laserpointer can be to keeping your wires held in place after soldering.
View attachment 362963
These are the Dat0 and Clk pins prior to getting a UV-cure resin treatment to more permanently hold the wire leads down.
View attachment 362968
Here are my RST and CMD lines along with the two previous pins after being cured with resin. There is also a wooden toothpick for scale.
View attachment 362964
This was while things were looking good. I had just gotten the mosfet situated in place on the left cap. As I was feeding the CPU wire through the APU shielding, I jiggled the backend a little too hard and ripped the capacitor clean off the pads, taking the pad closest to the APU completely off, and de-tinning the ground pad... Recovery involved sulking a little, making sure my console still booted to OFW, and then pressing onward to the following...
View attachment 362966
This abomination is layers of resin used to both mask solder joints from bridging, and to prevent my clumsy self from ripping off my last remaining lifeline to glitching this switch. Am I proud of it? Oddly yes, a little. I had to cut part of my APU shield to make sure this doesn't get disturbed, but WORTH IT. It's nearly unrecognizable at this point, but that is the same MOSFET from earlier on in this post.
View attachment 362965
Here was my bodged long-wire setup to prove that the pico would work for me. This is the second rp2040 zero that I installed, which ultimately led me to check every last one of my solder joints again. After confirming I could glitch my switch, I swapped back to my flex-cable modded picofly to be able to fully install it with no bulge, but still be able to easily update it through USB to at least make the jump to 2.6 when it's released. As everyone else is hoping, we'll hopefully be able to remotely update future firmwares through the switch (if even needed).
Thank you again for all the insight, and I hope this can provide even a little inspiration (or even an eye-opener to how small-scale this solder job is) for anyone seeking to do this kind of mod to their own switch. It's a real chore, even if you are good at soldering. Things can and will go wrong, even if you do everything right. Just be prepared to fix things if you mess them up. As others have stated, you can ruin your console if you mess up installing these kinds of mods (and several members have openly mentioned that they have learned from losing consoles as experience) but with careful planning and the right tools, you too can own a picofly modded switch.
that with the ps4 4 connector and flex cable was my idea hahahaha
is that blue th green or cyan ? can really see what excatly it is
if its cyan check ur mosfet cable if thats not the issue install a second mosfet
Post automatically merged:
nice
its looking good :-)
if u need someone for testing hit me up
Post automatically merged:
how bad is it broken probaly fixable ?
or u think its a total Rip aslong as the apu isnt dead it should be fixable
Last edited by Dee87,
How to do this? doesn't RP2040 clear the bootloader when we press reset then boot button. I mean drive is always empty when we do this. How to enter boot upload mode without erasing the previously flashed UF2 file? Thanks
The USB drive the rpi presents isnt a real one, just copy the file across, the data wont be overwritten
You dont. you have to overwrite it with a UF2 file that addresses that specific area of the flash memory. The uf2 bootloader writes whatever information is contained in the UF2 file to the respective flash address. The unlock uf2 references a different area of flash than the main program and thus it doesn't overwrite the main program
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