Here's A Guide To Installing The Trinket M0 Into The Switch.

Program The Trinket Before You Remove The Usb Port, Saves You Doing It After You Complete The Install.

First Thing To Do Is Remove The Usb Port From The Trinket, If You Have A Hot Air Wand Then Use That To Remove The Port It Will Reduce The Risk Of Damage To The Pads.

Now That The Usb Port Has Been Removed You Want To Solder Wire To The Data Pads, White = Data- And Green Data+ In This Guide.

Now Solder Wire To The Bat Pad = Red, Gnd Pad = Black, Pad 4 = Orange & Pad 3 = Brown In This Guide.

Also Remove The Resistor Next To The Ppower Led Mark Out In Purple In This Guide.

When You Have The Trinket All Prepared, You Can Now Proceed To The Install To The Switch.

Once The Install Is Completely Done Then Clean Up The Points You Have Soldered To Using Isopropyl And Cotton Buds/Q-Tips.

Alternative Point For Pad 4.

Alternative Points For Joycon Rail Pin 10.

If You Decide On Using This Alternative Point Then Use Enamel Coated Jumper Wire 0.10mm.

Remember Take Your Time It's Not A Race lol. Rushing Can Lead To Mistakes.

Tools Required.

Kynar Wire 30 AWG.
Soldering Iron.
Hot Air Wand For Usb Port Removal(Optional)
Isopropyl.
Cotton Bud/Q-Tips.
Flux.
Solder.
Enamel Jumper Wire (Optional)


Thanks And Credit Goes To Xboxexpert For This Solution.

I Think That Covers Everything.

EDIT..

here's another method for the install of the trinket, this method does away with the pad 4, as some may find it tricky to solder to the cap used on the mobo.

the rst pad is used instead and the wire is linked to the power button, Also this has a bonus that you can double press the power button to put the trinket into boot loader mode for uploading a new payload.

of course you don't have to use the rst pad at all, you can't just press power button and volume up button, then press reset button for rcm mode.

this method should be ok for the novices.

install at your own risk.

the pad on the power button to use.

i have one more method to try but I really think this one is not to bad method.

the more methods the better I say, of course to try and make it as easy as possible for pros and novices.

EDIT...
another method for the install of the trinket.

this method is basically same as all other methods, just a different points uses for the bat pad and rst pad.

this install will allow you to have the trinket power off when you fully power off the switch.

double press the reset button on the trinket to get into boot loader mode, this may take a couple of attempts to do.

the payload that you use already will work with this method no need for new ones.

here's the diagram for method 3, you could possibly have this as a 4 wire install, if you install auto rcm mode, but as my sd card module port is buggerd I couldn't test that out.

ok it seems method 3 needs auto rcm installed for it to work without the need to use the rst pad

so for them that don't want to use auto rcm mode then solder a wire from rst pad to the point on the power button, and use pad 3 to the pin 10 on the joycon rail or one of the alt points on mobo.

beware the alt points are small so use at your own risk.

ok anyone with changing issues test these 2 points, you should get 5v on the usb port side, and around 3.2v on the switch side.

if your getting the volts on the switch side that are fluctuating up & down then replace the part with the v on top it's a diode, you want one that fits so the actual size is either 0402 or 0603 in dimension (i'm using 0402/0603 as an example for size purpose only)

around page 16 has more info about this component..

dont come moaning if you damage your console doing this install, i'm not responsible for you opening or taking a soldering iron to your console.
you do this at your own risk any damage is down to yourself.

another thing if your trinket starts to get very hot to the point you can't touch it, then the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic is on it's way out, so you will need to replace the ic or just replace your trinket.

at some point it wont power up after this has happened.
1 = gets very hot.
2 = reset starts to become tempermental .
3 = dead
4 = fix replace the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic

edit

added uf2 drag and drop files for r4 trinket gemma dongles or for a 4 wire internal install.

atmosphere
hekate 4.2
Sxos
rajnx
reinx

 

[m4xw]

@m4xw: Sounds interesting which Chip so you meen and what can be done with the „more powerfull chip" that couldn‘t be done with the Trinket M0?

If you don't want to post it here in the thread please write a PN to me

https://docs.particle.io/datasheets/photon-(wifi)/photon-datasheet/

130Mhz Cortex M3
Integrated Wifi, the one I use has BtLE too
1MB flash, IoT cloud too

You can imagine what I am going for.

 

[M-O-B]

https://docs.particle.io/datasheets/photon-(wifi)/photon-datasheet/

130Mhz Cortex M3
Integrated Wifi, the one I use has BtLE too
1MB flash, IoT cloud too

You can imagine what I am going for.

this all comes down to size and cost for most, the size of that 36.58mm x 20.32mm x 4.32mm compared to the trinket 27mm x 15.3mm x 2.75mm.

 

[Deleted User]

Oh That's What The PAD 0 Is For, Not Sure I'd Use That As I Like The Original Method Power On Only For OFW.

PAD 0 To "Vol+ GND" For Key Free Entry Into RCM
PAD 3V to PAD 4 On Trinket Didn't Work For Me When I Tried It.

The Volume- For The Reset Is A Niffty Idea.

The Trinket In The Bat Area I Did Look At But I Didn't Think It Would Fit Snug Enough, But Then That Was With The Reset Switch Intact, Also The Caps Around The Reset Switch May Need To Be Replaced For 0603 Caps.

Good Luck.

Alright so after some tinkering last night and came to some conclusions about my pinout.

-TX/RX work perfectly fine in the default position
-PIN0 to "vol+ gnd" for key free entry into RCM works, but you are right about not always wanting it to default to CFW, and in SX OS continuing to hold the button pops up the menu for cfw/ofw etc, which was a pain in the ass lol
-PIN 3V to PIN4 didn't work, just like you had found. It's looking for a trigger voltage, I might route this to the joycon 1.8v rail next time and test that out instead of the tiny point.
-BAT no change works fine
-GND no change works fine
-PIN 3 to ALT 10 > I ended up just doing it on the rail headers, that alternate point was tiny and would likely tear the trace.
-RST pin to "Vol- gnd" worked out thankfully because I had to remove the reset switch for it to fit lol

Side note: the CE point on the voltage regulator to 1.8v was a no go, it wasn't close enough to the bat voltage to trigger a power on state. I also canned the fiber optics idea, it's easy to tell without lights if it's working or not lol.

Next time around I will just do what you did and have VOL+ be the trinket ground, it's honestly the only way I've been able to keep the thing shut off so far.

The code also needs a few tweaks, considering pin 4 and 0 isn't really needed if we are initiating the routine via the volume + key.

Cheers!

 

[m4xw]

this all comes down to size and cost for most, the size of that 36.58mm x 20.32mm x 4.32mm compared to the trinket 27mm x 15.3mm x 2.75mm.

You only need the p0 or p1 module, photon is for prototyping (but not needing to use a custom pcb would be nice)

The actual P1 module dimensions are: 0.787"(28mm) (W) x 1.102"(20mm) (L) x 0.0787"(2.0mm) (H) +/-0.0039"(0.1mm)

 

[M-O-B]

right updated op with 3.1 hekate ctcaer, dam sometimes it hard keeping up with them bin files pml.

Alright so after some tinkering last night and came to some conclusions about my pinout.

-TX/RX work perfectly fine in the default position
-PIN0 to "vol+ gnd" for key free entry into RCM works, but you are right about not always wanting it to default to CFW, and in SX OS continuing to hold the button pops up the menu for cfw/ofw etc, which was a pain in the ass lol
-PIN 3V to PIN4 didn't work, just like you had found. It's looking for a trigger voltage, I might route this to the joycon 1.8v rail next time and test that out instead of the tiny point.
-BAT no change works fine
-GND no change works fine
-PIN 3 to ALT 10 > I ended up just doing it on the rail headers, that alternate point was tiny and would likely tear the trace.
-RST pin to "Vol- gnd" worked out thankfully because I had to remove the reset switch for it to fit lol

Side note: the CE point on the voltage regulator to 1.8v was a no go, it wasn't close enough to the bat voltage to trigger a power on state. I also canned the fiber optics idea, it's easy to tell without lights if it's working or not lol.

Next time around I will just do what you did and have VOL+ be the trinket ground, it's honestly the only way I've been able to keep the thing shut off so far.

The code also needs a few tweaks, considering pin 4 and 0 isn't really needed if we are initiating the routine via the volume + key.

Cheers!

I'll have a bit more tinkering when I find time, had delivery of a couple of damaged trinkets or usb pads, only gnd and data was left, but the data pads are loose flapping about so they not going to be good enough for wires.

this probably just needs a bit of fine tuning then it be perfect.

mind tx may bring some sort of internal chip out before long pml.

You only need the p0 or p1 module, photon is for prototyping (but not needing to use a custom pcb would be nice)

The actual P1 module dimensions are: 0.787"(28mm) (W) x 1.102"(20mm) (L) x 0.0787"(2.0mm) (H) +/-0.0039"(0.1mm)

I've not really look into them tbh, I just had a quick look at the link you posted, I think that it be a waste of a board used in the switch.

 

[m4xw]

I've not really look into them tbh, I just had a quick look at the link you posted, I think that it be a waste of a board used in the switch.

Funnily enough I think the same about the Trinket ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[noX1609]

@m4xw: Thanks for the link.
But i still confused what‘s the benefit of this compared to the Trinket M0 because runs good with Trinked soldered into the console.

So is there any benefit using this one if i already own a Trinket M0?
If yes could you give an example?

Or do you want/intend to use it external connected to the USB Port with a USB C Adapter?

Sorry for asking that many questions it's because i'm not very experienced in the whole hacking thing but i would like to learn more about it

 

[m4xw]

@m4xw: Thanks for the link.
But i still confused what‘s the benefit of this compared to the Trinket M0 because runs good with Trinked soldered into the console.

So is there any benefit using this one if i already own a Trinket M0?
If yes could you give an example?

Or do you want/intend to use it external connected to the USB Port with a USB C Adapter?

Sorry for asking that many questions it's because i'm not very experienced in the whole hacking thing but i would like to learn more about it

3x the Clock, 4x the flash. Inbuilt Wifi and BT capabilities, running freeRTOS

Setting up a webserver on that chip would be no problem, updates over the Air via cloud (if wanted)

On a custom pcb smaller than a trinket. I plan on adding a microSD reader too

UART via web console is one of the features I am planning to implement

 

[noX1609]

@m4xw: Thanks for the explanation and the examples.
Sounds good, will definitely follow this thread and look what will come in the days/weeks
With updates on the fly you mean the payload to boot into SX OS or other firmwares right?

For now i think the trinket is ok because i only want to send the payload to the console with it.

 

[m4xw]

@m4xw: Thanks for the explanation and the examples.
Sounds good, will definitely follow this thread and look what will come in the days/weeks

I think it can fit *just fine* as it is, but photon is really only intended for prototyping (in product dev)

I will post updates once I have something juicy

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

@m4xw: Thanks for the explanation and the examples.
Sounds good, will definitely follow this thread and look what will come in the days/weeks
With updates on the fly you mean the payload to boot into SX OS or other firmwares right?

For now i think the trinket is ok because i only want to send the payload to the console with it.

No I mean flashing a new firmware on the chip without having to use USB

And yes trinket is *fine* but its simple. If you want something simple.. well. Here we go

 

[M-O-B]

my 2 dongles once I put the wires on the second one, a lot thinner than the first one, bet the team matrix dongle be something like the second one but in a case lol.

have repaired two trinkets that was sent to me, here's the second one all pads for the usb on this was gone, solder some enamel coated jumper wire the the data pins on the chip, then placed them on the 2 empty blank circles on bottom of the trinket, so now they become the data pads for the trinket, test to make sure it programs and works ok..

 

[M-O-B]

this another install , and no pad 4 is used at moment am testing it on a repaired trinket so I need to have the usb power coming from the mobo.

total 5 or 6 wire install depending on if you use pad 3 for the joycon rail pin 10.

just need to sort the power off for the trinket, then it'll be a perfect solution, well that's my opinion pml..

 

[Xandroz]

i just ordered a trinket, to try it out instead of using the sx dongol, and auto rcm because of the battery drains.

wanted to ask a few points.

if i booted from the power button alone, will that boot me in to stock cfw or whats the situation.

i know volume up and power triggers rcm and i boot in to sx os.

what about the payloader menu where i can pick which cfw.

i am just installing it for convience to easily boot in to cfw or ofw and want to know

 

[M-O-B]

thought I'd give this dongle code a try on the install, the code was posted by nihoh-fox in this thread post 19 I think.

https://gbatemp.net/threads/build-your-own-dongle-research-and-development-thread.504633/page-8

anyway I will see if I can do anything with the code to disable the leds or trinket once it's done it's job, but I'm only going to text things when I have spare time.

with my install the code works just fine as it is.

 

[mattytrog]

thought I'd give this dongle code a try on the install, the code was posted by nihoh-fox in this thread post 19 I think.

https://gbatemp.net/threads/build-your-own-dongle-research-and-development-thread.504633/page-8

anyway I will see if I can do anything with the code to disable the leds or trinket once it's done it's job, but I'm only going to text things when I have spare time.

with my install the code works just fine as it is.

In the Trinket SX loader thread, the UF2 code switches all the LEDs off once job complete.

The 1.8v point you was referring to earlier in the thread... Isn`t it from the Joycons? Every 1.8v I found top side of the board was dependent on joycons being connected (there arent many).

Taking to the vol+ for gnd? I looked at that and it was floating at 4v going to ground when pressed. And I wasn`t sure if the system could take it. May give it a try. My toddlers switch still uses a recessed tactile switch going to trinket.

 

[M-O-B]

once I'm happy that this fresh install is safe and won't damage the actual console, then I'll update the op with the points used, or diagram whatever easiest to follow.

In the Trinket SX loader thread, the UF2 code switches all the LEDs off once job complete.

The 1.8v point you was referring to earlier in the thread... Isn`t it from the Joycons? Every 1.8v I found top side of the board was dependent on joycons being connected (there arent many).

Taking to the vol+ for gnd? I looked at that and it was floating at 4v going to ground when pressed. And I wasn`t sure if the system could take it. May give it a try. My toddlers switch still uses a recessed tactile switch going to trinket.

yeah same as the codes in op disables all leds, well apart from the power that is, that's why it's said to remove the resistor next to it, I've not actually look into 1.8v but others have I think.

i don't seem to get any volts on the vol+ button, but I will double check on that one later.

the pad 4 don't seem to be needed on my lastet test install using the files from the op.

wanted to give the first code from the link thread a try, just to see if it work on same install, only thing is the leds don't get disabled.

edit I get 1.7v in vol + button but my bat a bit low so it's probably 1.8v.

but having just checked a couple more things, I've got a couple of ideas to try out now, which if they work then the install will be better for novices.

 

[Juggalo Debo]

looks amazing better than magnet reed and cell phone

 

[Quiggy]

Im now in the club of the internal trinket switches Thanks for this Guide!

 

[M-O-B]

ok so had another play about with this, this is another variation of the install using 2 different codes, one that was posted by nihoh-fox in a thread on here and the other was done by Xboxexport or Xboxexpert can't remember exactly.

both codes seem to work fine with this method, I have not used pad 4 at all as I'm trying to figure out a easier install for them that ain't up to par with soldering aka the novices.

we all know that the cap for pad 4 can be tricky, anyway I think that this may do for another method for the install.

I have decided not to use the volume up button as that chucks out 1.8v not pressed.

anyway I noticed with the first code flashed to the trinket that if I pressed the reset button then the switch went into rcm mode.

so as the rst pad gives 3.2v I decided to test the power button on the switch and it gives 3.6v but maybe more if my battery was fully charged.

so I solder a wire from the rst pad going to one of the points for the power button and bingo.

press power button twice to reprogram the trinket.

 

[Crazywhitie]

What about battery
drain if trinket is always on?