Here's A Guide To Installing The Trinket M0 Into The Switch.

Program The Trinket Before You Remove The Usb Port, Saves You Doing It After You Complete The Install.

First Thing To Do Is Remove The Usb Port From The Trinket, If You Have A Hot Air Wand Then Use That To Remove The Port It Will Reduce The Risk Of Damage To The Pads.

Now That The Usb Port Has Been Removed You Want To Solder Wire To The Data Pads, White = Data- And Green Data+ In This Guide.

Now Solder Wire To The Bat Pad = Red, Gnd Pad = Black, Pad 4 = Orange & Pad 3 = Brown In This Guide.

Also Remove The Resistor Next To The Ppower Led Mark Out In Purple In This Guide.

When You Have The Trinket All Prepared, You Can Now Proceed To The Install To The Switch.

Once The Install Is Completely Done Then Clean Up The Points You Have Soldered To Using Isopropyl And Cotton Buds/Q-Tips.

Alternative Point For Pad 4.

Alternative Points For Joycon Rail Pin 10.

If You Decide On Using This Alternative Point Then Use Enamel Coated Jumper Wire 0.10mm.

Remember Take Your Time It's Not A Race lol. Rushing Can Lead To Mistakes.

Tools Required.

Kynar Wire 30 AWG.
Soldering Iron.
Hot Air Wand For Usb Port Removal(Optional)
Isopropyl.
Cotton Bud/Q-Tips.
Flux.
Solder.
Enamel Jumper Wire (Optional)


Thanks And Credit Goes To Xboxexpert For This Solution.

I Think That Covers Everything.

EDIT..

here's another method for the install of the trinket, this method does away with the pad 4, as some may find it tricky to solder to the cap used on the mobo.

the rst pad is used instead and the wire is linked to the power button, Also this has a bonus that you can double press the power button to put the trinket into boot loader mode for uploading a new payload.

of course you don't have to use the rst pad at all, you can't just press power button and volume up button, then press reset button for rcm mode.

this method should be ok for the novices.

install at your own risk.

the pad on the power button to use.

i have one more method to try but I really think this one is not to bad method.

the more methods the better I say, of course to try and make it as easy as possible for pros and novices.

EDIT...
another method for the install of the trinket.

this method is basically same as all other methods, just a different points uses for the bat pad and rst pad.

this install will allow you to have the trinket power off when you fully power off the switch.

double press the reset button on the trinket to get into boot loader mode, this may take a couple of attempts to do.

the payload that you use already will work with this method no need for new ones.

here's the diagram for method 3, you could possibly have this as a 4 wire install, if you install auto rcm mode, but as my sd card module port is buggerd I couldn't test that out.

ok it seems method 3 needs auto rcm installed for it to work without the need to use the rst pad

so for them that don't want to use auto rcm mode then solder a wire from rst pad to the point on the power button, and use pad 3 to the pin 10 on the joycon rail or one of the alt points on mobo.

beware the alt points are small so use at your own risk.

ok anyone with changing issues test these 2 points, you should get 5v on the usb port side, and around 3.2v on the switch side.

if your getting the volts on the switch side that are fluctuating up & down then replace the part with the v on top it's a diode, you want one that fits so the actual size is either 0402 or 0603 in dimension (i'm using 0402/0603 as an example for size purpose only)

around page 16 has more info about this component..

dont come moaning if you damage your console doing this install, i'm not responsible for you opening or taking a soldering iron to your console.
you do this at your own risk any damage is down to yourself.

another thing if your trinket starts to get very hot to the point you can't touch it, then the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic is on it's way out, so you will need to replace the ic or just replace your trinket.

at some point it wont power up after this has happened.
1 = gets very hot.
2 = reset starts to become tempermental .
3 = dead
4 = fix replace the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic

edit

added uf2 drag and drop files for r4 trinket gemma dongles or for a 4 wire internal install.

atmosphere
hekate 4.2
Sxos
rajnx
reinx

 

[M-O-B]

@M-O-B: Sounds great, looking forward to the % you get. Because if it‘s about 1% in that time i don‘t need to search for method to disable power of the trinket after injection of the payload.

Some one posted in another thread that there is a 1.8v pad that‘s only powered if switch is on or in sleep mode.
But there is the question: Is 1.8V enoght for the trinket or does it need higher voltage?
Because if it‘s enoght you could just solder the point to the bat point on trinket i think.

1.8v won't power the trinket enough, not that I've tested it, but having said that I'd expect you could get some sort of transistor that works from 1.8v then outputs 3v

that maybe the only method to disable the switch when powered off, but 1% is no biggie really.

 

[Deleted User]

I've got a bunch of m0's coming Monday so I'll test the amperage draw then we can easily calculate the sleep amount and if it's negligible we won't need to bother.

Edit: @mattytrog beat me to it lol

https://gbatemp.net/threads/trinket-m0-sx-loader.508068/

 

[M-O-B]

I've got a bunch of m0's coming Monday so I'll test the amperage draw then we can easily calculate the sleep amount and if it's negligible we won't need to bother.

Edit: @mattytrog beat me to it lol

https://gbatemp.net/threads/trinket-m0-sx-loader.508068/

well 2 hours 3 minutes sleep mode and it's 19% battery drain, this is with the green power led enabled, so no resistor removed.

I'll redo the sleep mode test without the trinket installed a bit later.

got another method to try out hopefully it will do away with the wire from rst pad to power button, so it'll just be the data and power wires needed.

I also wanna try the battery drain with the code that was posted by nihoh-fox a couple of weeks ago for the dongle, as that has the pink led on as well as the green power led.

op updated added new install diagram and power point used, will try and sort the mobo point on the mobo and see if it's a simple solder point to get at.

 

[xeswitched]

Hey. Xboxexpert here...if anyone needs help just ask.

 

[mrdude]

@M.O.B

On the power cable at the opposite side of the switch where you soldered the reset point to - how much voltage do you get?

If you get any - Instead of soldering that point to reset - you can power the trinket with that, that way as soon as you let go of the power switch - the trinket will power off and not use anything (after all - you only need to press the power button until the payload is sent). Also - instead of soldering onto the ribbon cable, can you not trace where that line goes and solder straight on to the mobo?

 

[Maximize0987]

well 2 hours 3 minutes sleep mode and it's 19% battery drain, this is with the green power led enabled, so no resistor removed.

View attachment 134824

I'll redo the sleep mode test without the trinket installed a bit later.

got another method to try out hopefully it will do away with the wire from rst pad to power button, so it'll just be the data and power wires needed.

I also wanna try the battery drain with the code that was posted by nihoh-fox a couple of weeks ago for the dongle, as that has the pink led on as well as the green power led.

op updated added new install diagram and power point used, will try and sort the mobo point on the mobo and see if it's a simple solder point to get at.

If you burned through 19% in 2 hours then I have to assume your trinket is not going into sleep mode. My sleep mode works and is draining ~15% in 24 hours

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

and get rid of that power LED

 

[M-O-B]

@M.O.B

On the power cable at the opposite side of the switch where you soldered the reset point to - how much voltage do you get?

If you get any - Instead of soldering that point to reset - you can power the trinket with that, that way as soon as you let go of the power switch - the trinket will power off and not use anything (after all - you only need to press the power button until the payload is sent). Also - instead of soldering onto the ribbon cable, can you not trace where that line goes and solder straight on to the mobo?

it gets 3.6v once pressed it grounded then as soon as the power button is released then it's 3.6v again, so not sure that would work, another thing you have to think about is when it comes to needing to update the payload the trinket needs power.

but I'm still working on a couple of things.

If you burned through 19% in 2 hours then I have to assume your trinket is not going into sleep mode. My sleep mode works and is draining ~15% in 24 hours

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

and get rid of that power LED

the led is staying for a purpose, as for the 19% drain in sleep mode this is what I'm looking at to see why it drains that much.

it could be the led but I can't see it being that, once I've finished checkin out the power consumption, I will be fully removing the trinket to compare the difference.

 

[mrdude]

it gets 3.6v once pressed it grounded then as soon as the power button is released then it's 3.6v again, so not sure that would work, another thing you have to think about is when it comes to needing to update the payload the trinket needs power.

but I'm still working on a couple of things.

It's grounded when you press the switch because that's a return path to the battery ground. 3.6v is good enough to power the trinket, you can hold the power button on to push the payload and when updating (slight pain I know - but it's not like it needs updating a lot, especially if you're just using osx or whatever as the dat file is stored on the sd card). Thanks for checking, now I have that info I'm going to wire mine differently from you.

For example: Supply the trinket 3.6v from the power button (that way it uses less power and turns off the trinket as soon as you stop pressing the button). Find a 3.6v at one of the other buttons so you can reset the trinket by holding power and pressing another button twice.

That would be the ultimate mod - built in payload injector/not powered up constantly/easily update-able.

 

[Kupie]

Oh snap, this looks awesome! Here's my plan since I use AutoRCM:

*Remove the Reset button, since I won't be using it
*Use it with SX OS (since SX OS has a nice 'launch external payload from SD card' option
*No soldering to any joycon stuff needed, just need Data-, Data+, GRND and Power/battery

Let me know if anyone sees flaws in my plan

Edit: Also what's the D&D vs regular versions in the .zip file?

 

[frep]

It's grounded when you press the switch because that's a return path to the battery ground. 3.6v is good enough to power the trinket, you can hold the power button on to push the payload and when updating (slight pain I know - but it's not like it needs updating a lot, especially if you're just using osx or whatever as the dat file is stored on the sd card). Thanks for checking, now I have that info I'm going to wire mine differently from you.

For example: Supply the trinket 3.6v from the power button (that way it uses less power and turns off the trinket as soon as you stop pressing the button). Find a 3.6v at one of the other buttons so you can reset the trinket by holding power and pressing another button twice.

That would be the ultimate mod - built in payload injector/not powered up constantly/easily update-able.

I think, it's not much of a problem, to power the trinklet from the power button, while pressed.
But because the power button is low active (0V when pressed, 3.6V otherwise), you have to connect the button to the GND of the trinket. The Bat Pin of the trinket goes to the BAT pin of the switch. So when the power button is not pressed, the ground of the trinket is at 3.6V -> not running at all.
Power button pressed, trinket ground is at 0V and is running as long as u hold the power button...

 

[mrdude]

I think, it's not much of a problem, to power the trinklet from the power button, while pressed.
But because the power button is low active (0V when pressed, 3.6V otherwise), you have to connect the button to the GND of the trinket. The Bat Pin of the trinket goes to the BAT pin of the switch. So when the power button is not pressed, the ground of the trinket is at 3.6V -> not running at all.
Power button pressed, trinket ground is at 0V and is running as long as u hold the power button...

The 3.6v on one side of the switch - goes to the other side of the switch once the button is pressed - it looks like 0v because the electrons are then going of to their loads and returning to ground - you still get the 3.6v that you can use to power the trinket though, if there's not enough amps though (there should be), you can connect that feed to the base of a transistor and the collector and emitter to the relevant grounds to complete the circuit (but this is probably not needed).

 

[M-O-B]

It's grounded when you press the switch because that's a return path to the battery ground. 3.6v is good enough to power the trinket, you can hold the power button on to push the payload and when updating (slight pain I know - but it's not like it needs updating a lot, especially if you're just using osx or whatever as the dat file is stored on the sd card). Thanks for checking, now I have that info I'm going to wire mine differently from you.

For example: Supply the trinket 3.6v from the power button (that way it uses less power and turns off the trinket as soon as you stop pressing the button). Find a 3.6v at one of the other buttons so you can reset the trinket by holding power and pressing another button twice.

That would be the ultimate mod - built in payload injector/not powered up constantly/easily update-able.

yeah I get what your saying about the power button, the problem is these 2 red pads are 3.6v the other side are gnd.

now when you press the power button the 2 red pads become gnd also, so the trinket turns off when pressed.

now if the button actually worked the opposite way round was 3.6v when pressed then it would work but it won't work I tried that idea yesterday.

the way you can still program the trinket when it has no bat power is use the usb pad so the trinket can still be programmed, but means soldering an extra wire.

on another note I've just done a 2 hour battery drain but using the other code that was released for the dongle version, and it drains 2% less. even with 2 leds on.

strange is that one

 

[frep]

The 3.6v on one side of the switch - goes to the other side of the switch once the button is pressed - it looks like 0v because the electrons are then going of to their loads and returning to ground - you still get the 3.6v that you can use to power the trinket though, if there's not enough amps though (there should be), you can connect that feed to the base of a transistor and the collector and emitter to the relevant grounds to complete the circuit (but this is probably not needed).

Hey MrDude!
I assume (means I don't know for sure) the 3.6V on one side of the switch is done by a pullup resistor to keep a proper high - level while not pressed. By pressing the button, this side is directly connected to ground, so the signal goes low. I don't think it's a good idea, to power the trinket directly from these 3.6V of the power button. But of course, you could use this voltage to drive a transistor.
Still I think, if you connect the ground of the trinket with the power button to the ground of the switch, I think, there is no need for an additional transistor.
-> Means 3.6V side of the power switch to the Ground of the trinket.

Btw: the 15mmx15mm board, you have proposed, looks awesome for this job! I have immediatly ordered one! :-)

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

now if the button actually worked the opposite way round was 3.6v when pressed then it would work but it won't work I tried that idea yesterday.

strange is that one View attachment 134860

it should still work, if you connect the button as shown:

 

[mrdude]

Yes that drawing where you connect the switch to ground would work. So instead of soldering to the ground wire point - you can solder the trinket ground to the power cable point where the OP soldered the reset point instead. That way it will complete it's circuit when the power button is pressed :-), and turn the trinket off when you let go the power button. To reset the trinket for accepting a new payload - you can find another button that goes to ground when pressed and wire that to the trinket reset point. Then when you want to put a new payload in - press the power button and the other button twice while holding the power button down.

Hey MrDude!
I assume (means I don't know for sure) the 3.6V on one side of the switch is done by a pullup resistor to keep a proper high - level while not pressed. By pressing the button, this side is directly connected to ground, so the signal goes low. I don't think it's a good idea, to power the trinket directly from these 3.6V of the power button. But of course, you could use this voltage to drive a transistor.
Still I think, if you connect the ground of the trinket with the power button to the ground of the switch, I think, there is no need for an additional transistor.
-> Means 3.6V side of the power switch to the Ground of the trinket.

Btw: the 15mmx15mm board, you have proposed, looks awesome for this job! I have immediatly ordered one! :-)

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------



it should still work, if you connect the button as shown:

View attachment 134863

 

[Crazywhitie]

Do you guy think we should reapply the Metal plate? I have a Clear case and wondering how important it would be? sorry a touch off topic maybe... Got Chip working and closing her up now... Thanks M-O-B

 

[mrdude]

Yes I would, it directs air flow from the fan to cool the components down, also acts as a shield to protect some of those parts from damage + electromagnetic interference, and acts as a ground point to stop things from shorting out.

 

[M-O-B]

Yes that drawing where you connect the switch to ground would work. So instead of soldering to the ground wire point - you can solder the trinket ground to the power cable point where the OP soldered the reset point instead. That way

Yes that drawing where you connect the switch to ground would work. So instead of soldering to the ground wire point - you can solder the trinket ground to the power cable point where the OP soldered the reset point instead. That way it will complete it's circuit when the power button is pressed :-), and turn the trinket off when you let go the power button. To reset the trinket for accepting a new payload - you can find another button that goes to ground when pressed and wire that to the trinket reset point. Then when you want to put a new payload in - press the power button and the other button twice while holding the power button down.

in theory that sounds ok, but your only going to have all gnd points on the trinket 3.6 then you may damage the trinket.

I really don't think it's worth having the trinket disable after jobs done.

trinket not installed I get around the same battery drain as I do with the trinket installed..

 

[mrdude]

So is it 3.6v or 0v (gnd) - you're kind of making this confusing now. If it's 3.6 v - use a transistor, if it's 0v - connect to GND.

The fact that the reset pin gets grounded to perform a reset, makes me think that when you already said that that power button causes the switch to reset - means it's getting grounded - or am I missing something here?

I'll be buying a switch next week, so I'll test everything myself anyway - but my aim is to have the trinket completely turned off when not in use as I sometimes don't use gaming devices for weeks or months at a time, so don't want anything draining the battery needlessly.

 

[M-O-B]

So is it 3.6v or 0v (gnd) - you're kind of making this confusing now. If it's 3.6 v - use a transistor, if it's 0v - connect to GND.

The fact that the reset pin gets grounded to perform a reset, makes me think that when you already said that that power button causes the switch to reset - means it's getting grounded - or am I missing something here?

I'll be buying a switch next week, so I'll test everything myself anyway - but my aim is to have the trinket completely turned off when not in use as I sometimes don't use gaming devices for weeks or months at a time, so don't want anything draining the battery needlessly.

quick test putting the 3.6 from the power button to the gnd pad on the trinket, then press the button enables the trinket, then released button and it disables the trinket.

but doing it that way you have no gnd actually on the trinket, so you lose not being able to program it nor could I boot into rcm mode using my install, as the reset button didn't work so would need something different to replace my reset method for rcm mode, so this would probably have to bring back pad 4 setup.

Will need more looking into for this to work properly.

 

[mrdude]

quick test putting the 3.6 from the power button to the gnd pad on the trinket, then press the button enables the trinket, then released button and it disables the trinket.

but doing it that way you have no gnd actually on the trinket, so you lose not being able to program it nor could I boot into rcm mode using my install, as the reset button didn't work so would need something different to replace my reset method for rcm mode, so this would probably have to bring back pad 4 setup.

Will need more looking into for this to work properly.

I must be grounded or it wouldn't work, you're just completing the circuit by doing that - electrons need a complete path to travel, you're just completing that path by supplying a ground point. If you want to program the trinket - look for another button on the switch when it's pushed, it also grounds - then solder that to the reset pin. That way you just hold power then press that other button twice fast, which puts the trinket into programming mode.

You can quickly test by connecting a wire to the reset point on the trinket - then press it against a ground on the switch twice (fast) - or press the reset switch!