Switch OLED teardown V1/V2

[FR0ZN]

'Rape' seems a little overstated, a small incision at the edge allows the overhanging part to be bent upwards and you can simply bend it back into place before you put the cover back on.

Tell that to Stethix

 

[Mena]

Was it your intent that users reflow the eMMC chip after shoving the adapter underneath?

It's not meant to be soldered, slide it under, get a reading in diode mode, solder mask it down

With thinner I meant making it smaller so it fits between the shield and eMMC, so peoppe don't have to rape the shield while installing it

But if you say it's a generic adapter, we have to design a Switch OLED specific one

If you make something specific to a Switch you may get into legal issues with Nintendo

 

[FR0ZN]

Fresh out the oven - not what I imagined, but definitely a step up.

 

[Mena]

Fresh out the oven - not what I imagined, but definitely a step up.

View attachment 289195

Good work!

 

[FR0ZN]

Good work!

Not from me, some seller on taobao made it.

 

[doom95]

Not a big fan of using that point for 3.3V, there's a few beefier caps that seem like the supply comes from a bigger trace and should be more robust to solder onto, but the dimension changes look like a slight improvement indeed.

 

[de9ed]

Not a big fan of using that point for 3.3V, there's a few beefier caps that seem like the supply comes from a bigger trace and should be more robust to solder onto, but the dimension changes look like a slight improvement indeed.

that is what I'm thinking of too, there are 3.3v caps on the front side (top) for easy solder. why take 3.3V near the emmc ?

 

[Mena]

that is what I'm thinking of too, there are 3.3v caps on the front side (top) for easy solder. why take 3.3V near the emmc ?

Well, you don't need to use it. Could just leave it be as an anchor

 

[mvmiranda]

Have you guys seen this?
<edited>

Apparently it's a "new" HWFLY for OLEDs.

 

[doom95]

It was over in the other thread. Is there a source to purchase from?

 

[mvmiranda]

It was over in the other thread. Is there a source to purchase from?

Can you point me to the other thread?
I did a lazy search before posting here and could not find it

I do not know.
As far as I know this is a "preview" unit or something.

 

[doom95]

Yeah the https://gbatemp.net/threads/nintend...or-modchip-install.601394/page-7#post-9692623 thread

The guy edited the post though. But he showed the same picture before.

 

[grubgrub]

Was a mission to get a hold of one, but my SX lite finally arrived!!
Now its time to get a switch oled soon

 

[Mulanzo]

1650 is too high! It should be something between 500ish and 700ish.

Does it blink some times (blue or purple) then red light?
If so then your issue is your DAT0 connection.

So I’m just reinstalling a new chip and while everything was all still disassembled I powered it on and booted to hekate!!!! Then I assembled everything and screwed it all back together and now it flashes purple and then red!!!! What the heck….. could I have damaged something when reassembling?

 

[doom95]

Check the clock signal wire in diode mode. Did you route the wire away from the screw hole?

 

[de9ed]

Check the clock signal wire in diode mode. Did you route the wire away from the screw hole?

which one is the clock signal ?

 

[doom95]

The one you scraped away the solder mask for, underneath where you cut away the SoC shield.

 

[Mulanzo]

Check the clock signal wire in diode mode. Did you route the wire away from the screw hole?

Seems like there isn’t a short and I protected the routing with solder mask so it didn’t move or get cut

 

[0x3000027E]

It's genuinely shocking how popular my adapter became. Hope it helps everyone

That was some wonderful engineering sir; a simple, cheap and efficient solution. Brings a tear to my eye

 

[doom95]

Seems like there isn’t a short and I protected the routing with solder mask so it didn’t move or get cut

But what does the diode mode reading say then? Check all your signals. The CLK is the most delicate one, but it could be any of them.