Tell that to Stethix'Rape' seems a little overstated, a small incision at the edge allows the overhanging part to be bent upwards and you can simply bend it back into place before you put the cover back on.
Tell that to Stethix'Rape' seems a little overstated, a small incision at the edge allows the overhanging part to be bent upwards and you can simply bend it back into place before you put the cover back on.
It's not meant to be soldered, slide it under, get a reading in diode mode, solder mask it downWas it your intent that users reflow the eMMC chip after shoving the adapter underneath?
If you make something specific to a Switch you may get into legal issues with NintendoWith thinner I meant making it smaller so it fits between the shield and eMMC, so peoppe don't have to rape the shield while installing it
But if you say it's a generic adapter, we have to design a Switch OLED specific one
Good work!
Not a big fan of using that point for 3.3V, there's a few beefier caps that seem like the supply comes from a bigger trace and should be more robust to solder onto, but the dimension changes look like a slight improvement indeed.
Well, you don't need to use it. Could just leave it be as an anchorthat is what I'm thinking of too, there are 3.3v caps on the front side (top) for easy solder. why take 3.3V near the emmc ?
Can you point me to the other thread?It was over in the other thread. Is there a source to purchase from?
So I’m just reinstalling a new chip and while everything was all still disassembled I powered it on and booted to hekate!!!! Then I assembled everything and screwed it all back together and now it flashes purple and then red!!!! What the heck….. could I have damaged something when reassembling?1650 is too high! It should be something between 500ish and 700ish.
Does it blink some times (blue or purple) then red light?
If so then your issue is your DAT0 connection.
which one is the clock signal ?Check the clock signal wire in diode mode. Did you route the wire away from the screw hole?
Seems like there isn’t a short and I protected the routing with solder mask so it didn’t move or get cutCheck the clock signal wire in diode mode. Did you route the wire away from the screw hole?
That was some wonderful engineering sir; a simple, cheap and efficient solution. Brings a tear to my eyeIt's genuinely shocking how popular my adapter became. Hope it helps everyone
But what does the diode mode reading say then? Check all your signals. The CLK is the most delicate one, but it could be any of them.Seems like there isn’t a short and I protected the routing with solder mask so it didn’t move or get cut