Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[psycho-neon]

Nice work! Would you be able to add a spot for a CC0201KRX5R7BB393 to the DIN for the RGB mod, or do you already have something in place that fixes the disconnecting and pairing issues with that modification?

I do have the din line, but the decoupling cap is missing. Im not sure what the value should be but I can add it no problem.

 

[JaRocker]

I do have the din line, but the decoupling cap is missing. Im not sure what the value should be but I can add it no problem.

If I’m recalling correctly, I think I used a 39nF_$10%_16V_X5R_0201

 

[karatefeet]

found the issue, 1ewp :/. but its strange since its not heating up when being turned on

Can you explain what the issue was? I've got one with missing the 3.3v and need some hints.

 

[naldo29]

Can you explain what the issue was? I've got one with missing the 3.3v and need some hints.

it was this that neened to be replaced

 

[Danook28]

it was this that neened to be replacedView attachment 484265

why this chip damge coz that happend to me what happend is my soldering tip hit the chip when i soldering 3v3 wier or transfer heat close to it to corner or hit it little bit broken some time soldring paste go under it... becarefull. i replace 2 chip one of them i damge it coz i learn how do working ask person here buy other new chip. it is good job need know what temp 1 then 2 then 3. change hot air.

 

[nunbamun]

Hello,

Does anyone know the value of these resistors next to the DRAM on a V2 switch?

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

Does anyone know the value of these resistors next to the DRAM on a V2 switch?

I can't find any info on the values but they are likely capacitors for smoothing the voltage line.
Something like 100nF should be fine but maybe the Switch will work without them anyway.
Just like the caps on top of the CPU.

 

[nunbamun]

I can't find any info on the values but they are likely capacitors for smoothing the voltage line.
Something like 100nF should be fine but maybe the Switch will work without them anyway.
Just like the caps on top of the CPU.

I've found one that maybe like that that maybe could work? https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KYOCERA-AVX/06036C104MAZ2A?qs=9g9l2Gjnh0s/Yval7p6%2B1g==

But I accidentally knocked off those two when installing my modchip and I believe that's why I've been having issues installing hekate and my switch now blue screens when trying to boot OFW. Which is weird since I've made sure i did everything else correctly.

 

[dehydrated_lemur]

3rd batch of tinyfly came.

View attachment 483979View attachment 483980

Is the latest still 2.0b? Because when I download 2.0c the board still says 2.0b

 

[Danook28]

any one know what value for the resistor in joy con not Orginal there some heat spot here black transestor i think and the resistor i put alcohol it dry i feeling heat from plastic case. but it is was not working i try unblog battery conector then blog it it is working now the heat is same if i replace this resistor or transistor LTH7R v3 me be...it will stop heat here?!?

 

[deeps]

Is the latest still 2.0b? Because when I download 2.0c the board still says 2.0b

no, they are different. @psycho-neon just forgot to update the version tag in 2.0c

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

any one know what value for the resistor in joy con not Orginal there some heat spot here black transestor i think and the resistor i put alcohol it dry i feeling heat from plastic case. but it is was not working i try unblog battery conector then blog it it is working now the heat is same if i replace this resistor or transistor LTH7R v3 me be...it will stop heat here?!?

LTH7R looks to be the charger IC.
Usually charger ICs get hot if they are broken or something connected to them draw too much power.
Does your battery hold any voltage (3.9~4.2 volt)?
If your battery measures anything below 2 volt then your battery is probably dead or shorting out the LTH72R.

 

[Danook28]

LTH7R looks to be the charger IC.
Usually charger ICs get hot if they are broken or something connected to them draw too much power.
Does your battery hold any voltage (3.9~4.2 volt)?
If your battery measures anything below 2 volt then your battery is probably dead or shorting out the LTH72R.

the resistor is hot and the LTH7R... but the resistor is dry alcohol also... it is working joycon i think bad both.

battery i think me be. thank you for info.

 

[Mr Skinner]

Can I use this resistor (taken from a donor board switch v1) to replace the cmd resistor on the oled switch? My order from mouser will arrive on saturday, and I would like to test if my repair worked.
If not, is there another 4k7 resistor (4.7K OHM 0201) on the switch v1 board? I have several boards that I can use as scrap.

 

[karatefeet]

Can I use this resistor (taken from a donor board switch v1) to replace the cmd resistor on the oled switch? My order from mouser will arrive on saturday, and I would like to test if my repair worked.
If not, is there another 4k7 resistor (4.7K OHM 0201) on the switch v1 board? I have several boards that I can use as scrap.

View attachment 485538

Yes. Here are some alternatives as well.

 

[buggyuser323]

I _just_ seem unable to disconnect these two connections. I've used a lot of force, pushing sideways, used tweezers, a couple of pointy sticks, nothing seems to work, and I might have broken off the top ledge-type thing that I see people leveraging against to push open with their tweezers. A lot of the times my tools slip and I fear I might have damaged the twisted cables that go into this. I can't seem to lift the board up either to get clearance to simply pull it straight down, I think the tightly wrapped-around cable on #2 is preventing me from doing so.

Any advice on how I can proceed, please?


e: got them out by prying side-to-side with a tweezer

 

[Pae]

switch v1 on purple screen when booting to ofw after installing picofly fw update, please help
tegraexplorer only shows boot0 and boot1 in nand

 

[deeps]

I _just_ seem unable to disconnect these two connections. I've used a lot of force, pushing sideways, used tweezers, a couple of pointy sticks, nothing seems to work, and I might have broken off the top ledge-type thing that I see people leveraging against to push open with their tweezers. A lot of the times my tools slip and I fear I might have damaged the twisted cables that go into this. I can't seem to lift the board up either to get clearance to simply pull it straight down, I think the tightly wrapped-around cable on #2 is preventing me from doing so.

Any advice on how I can proceed, please?


e: got them out by prying side-to-side with a tweezer

What I do is simply push the tip of my tweezer down into the "hole" in the middle of the connector and then pull it out with the downward and backward force from the tweezer. Takes 1 second

 

[karatefeet]

Does anyone know the value of this cap (circled in red) used for the 3.3v on a Lite?

 

[Maxmixmux]

Hello everyone... does anyone know what this resistor is for? It seems I damaged this resistor because after testing it in beep mode, it only reads 0.115. My OLED is still working. However, what are the side effects if this resistor is damaged?