The two cap conect to same point ground and the other side. And that two point is same to the capacitor points????
The two cap conect to same point ground and the other side. And that two point is same to the capacitor points????
The two cap conect to same point ground and the other side. And that two point is same to the capacitor points????
even after you saying its a Docker, means its portable.
Take a while but now I am able to build it myself
ah, I install wls2 and ubuntu along side, so it behave exactly like what happen on ubuntu. One thing I am unable to work is the directory in ubuntu system not match for windows to copy, so I put my code to my own github repo. I also got some trouble with docker cache my code. I guess windows is never a good env for dev. Anyway, I will not tweaking fw everyday so it is ok for nowhalf true in this case. it's a bash script that creates a dockerfile, then the script runs the dockerfile which downloads all dependencies and compiles the firmware, then the script uses docker commands to copy the resulting firmware out of the docker container. Running it on windows would require some adjustments, but that's someone else's problem.
Post automatically merged:
feel free to share with others if you've adapted the script to work on windows
this is an old pic but it shows what you are asking forhey guys , can you guive my some examples of pico install on switch lite , wichout cuting the shield
take out shield of emmc and put picofly on top of it, it will fit easy, as long as the shield still there, you need to bend the top aluminum a bit, you could also trim all the unused pin to reduce the size, it help a lot, then remember to tape it carefully. another option is put it on top of aluminum shield at the middle but it will reduce the intake airflowhey guys , can you guive my some examples of pico install on switch lite , wichout cuting the shield
hey guys , can you guive my some examples of pico install on switch lite , wichout cuting the shield
Thank you brother. The pic help me and my 3 console v1 mod picofly. Work perfect.
@karatefeet made a request for links to 'what I use for reballing', figured I'd share with the class...
I just bought the magnetic base, positioning plate and BGA153 stencil from this link:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mO67mrS
1st time using a mag base and fixture, gotta say, im never going back
I’ve ordered one of these as well. Between this and the magnetic stencil jig ordered yesterday, one of them has to work!You would find solder ball makes life easier when your bga chip size go larger.
I have both for emmc reball. Not much difference in this case but only takes me extra effort putting back remaining balls when I am cheap and don't wanna waste any single one of them.
View attachment 377794
You need a specific stencil for 0.3mm balls. The one I linked uses 0.15mm holes, only solder paste will work.I’ve ordered one of these as well. Between this and the magnetic stencil jig ordered yesterday, one of them has to work!
Yup, I’ve ordered specific stencils for both. Covering all my bases lol.You need a specific stencil for 0.3mm balls. The one I linked uses 0.15mm holes, only solder paste will work.
If you put this code in the .bashrc file, you can get the actual directory of the wsl2 on windows explorer just by writing "explorer" as command:ah, I install wls2 and ubuntu along side, so it behave exactly like what happen on ubuntu. One thing I am unable to work is the directory in ubuntu system not match for windows to copy, so I put my code to my own github repo. I also got some trouble with docker cache my code. I guess windows is never a good env for dev. Anyway, I will not tweaking fw everyday so it is ok for now
https://github.com/tranngoclinhbk/picofly here is my repo with changing green led for success and red led for bug. I will change short and long pulse led code in another free time. Anyway, this is my obsession with green for success, and red for bug, it could be reverted in some board with grb.
People should stick with rehius's fw due to the fact it behave the same for all board
How about the CMD and the CLK pad. Is it okay?@QuiTim, @abal1000x , @Dee87,
, Thanks for all the help so far.
I believe I managed to restore dat0. the reading on the multimeter is 655. and also the alternate point shows the same measurement. it seems good?
View attachment 377987
Unfortunately the switch didn't turn on... any tips on what to do? maybe reinstall picofly and try a hekate to recover via backup?
Check also the cmd resistor might be damaged.@QuiTim, @abal1000x , @Dee87,
, Thanks for all the help so far.
I believe I managed to restore dat0. the reading on the multimeter is 655. and also the alternate point shows the same measurement. it seems good?
View attachment 377987
Unfortunately the switch didn't turn on... any tips on what to do? maybe reinstall picofly and try a hekate to recover via backup?
Ok so I got in the 0.2 wire and I still get that error code ==*. The points shown in the guide are not the same on v1/v2Yes
Check the Nintendo switch forum there is a All in One picofly thread with all original diagramms
can you show us the error video? For better debugOk so I got in the 0.2 wire and I still get that error code ==*. The points shown in the guide are not the same on v1/v2