Bro, post 10,023 of this thread should not be someone answering what kind of wire is needed for mosfet install. As Dee87 said, this has been answered so many times even my grandkids are gonna hear stories of what wire was used in the famous PicoFly mod for switch.
The 0.2mm is standard. You can use thinner, but it can burn, damage switch or god knows what. You can use thicker but it's harder to work with.
Edit: just so we are clear, thinner wire can be used but you need to solder SDA/SCL wires aswell so the voltage is lowered by pico (read Rehius post about it). Only do this if you know what you are doing.
Last edited by QuiTim,
So what would you suggest for the remaining wire? I ordered 36awg insulated a few days ago that should be here next week. Is that ok?
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2010
- Messages
- 162
- Trophies
- 1
- Age
- 36
- Location
- Bananna Land.
- Website
- www.nerdfy.com.br
- XP
- 843
- Country
Purely trauma!
But to be frank, I've been reading this thread voraciously, and I read somewhere that some failures in the zero dat trail can cause eMMC to fail, in my case it started, with the error =*= ( eMMC fail etc). Maybe replace eMMC inserting nand backup?
Honestly, I haven't tried anything other than despair
, but the week has been difficult, I lost an oled with the same error, same black screen, probably because of a poor quality dat0 adapter. In any case, I'll take a deep breath, resolder everything, put a new rp2040 and follow the reflow recommendations. Return with results.A silly question: What is the essential difference between a black screen (corrupted eMMC) and a console power problem? Both are black screens. Both there is no response or brightness on the screen?
0.2 wire has been ordered. Been using 0.1 this whole time waiting for my 36awg to come in. I’ve had to solder the SDA/SCL each time. I’m guessing since I used the 0.1 wire.
Next question would be is what points should I solder to on the V1 when doing a mosfet install. The guide doesn’t show an example for the V1.
I use for the rest of the wires 0.1mm that's plenty of enough
Post automatically merged:
Same ones like on the v2
Oh sorry , check the aio thread I made some also some mosfet diagrams for the erista board (V1)
Oh alright. So 0.2 for the mosfet portion and 0.1 for the rest. Got it. Thank you so much.
What’s an aio thread? I’m still super new to this forum.
I don't know if there is a way to know this without starting to measure voltage lines with dmm when you plug in the charger.Purely trauma!
But to be frank, I've been reading this thread voraciously, and I read somewhere that some failures in the zero dat trail can cause eMMC to fail, in my case it started, with the error =*= ( eMMC fail etc). Maybe replace eMMC inserting nand backup?
Honestly, I haven't tried anything other than despair
A silly question: What is the essential difference between a black screen (corrupted eMMC) and a console power problem? Both are black screens. Both there is no response or brightness on the screen?
I think the easier way would be to get a voltage meter from AliEx and see if the correct voltage is drawn when you connect the charger, so something like this: https://a.aliexpress.com/_msgflPA
(just to rule out the power issues)
I'm confused about the led, mine seemed to blink long yellow. However the firmware posts first says that there are led codes with long and short pulses, but then it says that the led should be red otherwise you need to short some jumper pads (which aren't explained where they are). And the definitive guide claims it needs to be yellow, can someone help me? What do i need to look out for if the flash is successful, a long led pulse no matter the color, a yelow light or a red light?
Colors don't matter anymore. One long pulse of light after you flash is what you need.
You can braid the 0.1 wires as I have often done (until the right one arrives).
Attachments
i use 0.2mm enamel wire for everything. works great.
Post automatically merged:
It takes four 0.1mm wires to reach the same surface area as a 0.2mm wire, though.
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2010
- Messages
- 162
- Trophies
- 1
- Age
- 36
- Location
- Bananna Land.
- Website
- www.nerdfy.com.br
- XP
- 843
- Country
Well, this is my preliminary investigation results: a dat0 ripoff. @abal1000x @QuiTim
@Dee87
Well, my switch lite worked for four days after a "successful" pico install, full hekate's nand backup and etc.
In two different episodes I was some OS freezing... In the last freeze, I forced a power off, and since, black screen and the Led code was "*=* No eMMC block 0 read error" I checked that the wires had continuity, there was no grounding. So I removed the chip, the wires and now under the microscope I noticed that my dat0 was ripped out. I don't know if this happened during chip removal, after the black screen or if it was already like that. Could this be related to my black screen?
Thx for the help.
@Dee87
Well, my switch lite worked for four days after a "successful" pico install, full hekate's nand backup and etc.
In two different episodes I was some OS freezing... In the last freeze, I forced a power off, and since, black screen and the Led code was "*=* No eMMC block 0 read error" I checked that the wires had continuity, there was no grounding. So I removed the chip, the wires and now under the microscope I noticed that my dat0 was ripped out. I don't know if this happened during chip removal, after the black screen or if it was already like that. Could this be related to my black screen?
Thx for the help.
That 2 pad (Dat0) must be connected, The right point goes to the cpu the left point goes to the emmc.
Since it is disconected, then the cpu can't access the emmc.
The fix is difficult, might takeout the emmc and made another cable (just like in oled) and connect it to the right pad of the Dat0 line.
Maybe someone else have a better opinionl, for the fix.
Editted:
It seems theres little bit copper in there you might be could soldered it to join the connection. Maybe with a little bit wire in there. After that use the alt point D0 for lite (in right area)
Last edited by abal1000x,
I've got a Lite doing the same and it doesn't seem like *you've gotten an answer, correct?
Yup, without Dat0 wires connected to pico it should boot straight to ofw, so the problem lies somewhere else or move to somewhere else (emmc corrupt?).
Just try to desolder everything from pico and hope it will boot normally.
Post automatically merged:
Yup, that will result in black screen.
If Cmd ripped out it will result purple screen.
For fix : use the thinnest wire you can found (0.01 is prefered), non enameled, Pre tin it, and make a tin blob on the solder tip, use as much flux you like, then start soldering.. only one second solder touch is needed.. you can know its conected if you cannot pull the wire.
First target is to solder the wire on to broken pads.. after that done, solder the other end of wire to good pad.
If the switch can boot, you can continue the mod using alternate dat0 point.
Last edited by cgtchy0412,
Solder balls!!!
It makes reballing so incredibly easy. I don't know why people torture themselves with solder paste.
0.3mm solder balls for the emmc.
Similar threads
