Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[BlueBeans]

i would go with th equivalent of 0,2 since 34 is 0.15 i think

Ok. Thank you. Will order now.

 

[QuiTim]

Or should I get 32awg? Since that’s the 0.2 equivalent

Bro, post 10,023 of this thread should not be someone answering what kind of wire is needed for mosfet install. As Dee87 said, this has been answered so many times even my grandkids are gonna hear stories of what wire was used in the famous PicoFly mod for switch.
The 0.2mm is standard. You can use thinner, but it can burn, damage switch or god knows what. You can use thicker but it's harder to work with.
Edit: just so we are clear, thinner wire can be used but you need to solder SDA/SCL wires aswell so the voltage is lowered by pico (read Rehius post about it). Only do this if you know what you are doing.

 

[BlueBeans]

i would go with th equivalent of 0,2 since 34 is 0.15 i think

So what would you suggest for the remaining wire? I ordered 36awg insulated a few days ago that should be here next week. Is that ok?

 

[Mr Skinner]

why do u think a reballing the emmc would help ? have u ever put heat on the emmc so have u reflowed it if not then there is no reason for reballing

Purely trauma!
But to be frank, I've been reading this thread voraciously, and I read somewhere that some failures in the zero dat trail can cause eMMC to fail, in my case it started, with the error =*= ( eMMC fail etc). Maybe replace eMMC inserting nand backup?

I would flash a new pico (or nuke the old one a flash it again) and resolder everything. There is no reason to do a reball at this stage. Why are you suspecting a physical damage to emmc?

Honestly, I haven't tried anything other than despair , but the week has been difficult, I lost an oled with the same error, same black screen, probably because of a poor quality dat0 adapter. In any case, I'll take a deep breath, resolder everything, put a new rp2040 and follow the reflow recommendations. Return with results.


A silly question: What is the essential difference between a black screen (corrupted eMMC) and a console power problem? Both are black screens. Both there is no response or brightness on the screen?

 

[BlueBeans]

Bro, post 10,023 of this thread should not be someone answering what kind of wire is needed for mosfet install. As Dee87 said, this has been answered so many times even my grandkids are gonna hear stories of what wire was used in the famous PicoFly mod for switch.
The 0.2mm is standard. You can use thinner, but it can burn, damage switch or god knows what. You can use thicker but it's harder to work with.
Edit: just so we are clear, thinner wire can be used but you need to solder SDA/SCL wires aswell so the voltage is lowered by pico (read Rehius post about it). Only do this if you know what you are doing.

0.2 wire has been ordered. Been using 0.1 this whole time waiting for my 36awg to come in. I’ve had to solder the SDA/SCL each time. I’m guessing since I used the 0.1 wire.

Next question would be is what points should I solder to on the V1 when doing a mosfet install. The guide doesn’t show an example for the V1.

 

[Dee87]

So what would you suggest for the remaining wire? I ordered 36awg insulated a few days ago that should be here next week. Is that ok?

I use for the rest of the wires 0.1mm that's plenty of enough

Post automatically merged: Jun 13, 2023

0.2 wire has been ordered. Been using 0.1 this whole time waiting for my 36awg to come in. I’ve had to solder the SDA/SCL each time. I’m guessing since I used the 0.1 wire.

Next question would be is what points should I solder to on the V1 when doing a mosfet install. The guide doesn’t show an example for the V1.

Same ones like on the v2

Oh sorry , check the aio thread I made some also some mosfet diagrams for the erista board (V1)

 

[BlueBeans]

I use for the rest of the wires 0.1mm that's plenty of enough

Post automatically merged: Jun 13, 2023

Same ones like on the v2

Oh sorry , check the aio thread I made some also some mosfet diagrams for the erista board (V1)

Oh alright. So 0.2 for the mosfet portion and 0.1 for the rest. Got it. Thank you so much.

What’s an aio thread? I’m still super new to this forum.

 

[Dee87]

Oh alright. So 0.2 for the mosfet portion and 0.1 for the rest. Got it. Thank you so much.

What’s an aio thread? I’m still super new to this forum.

Yes

Check the Nintendo switch forum there is a All in One picofly thread with all original diagramms

 

[QuiTim]

Purely trauma!
But to be frank, I've been reading this thread voraciously, and I read somewhere that some failures in the zero dat trail can cause eMMC to fail, in my case it started, with the error =*= ( eMMC fail etc). Maybe replace eMMC inserting nand backup?



Honestly, I haven't tried anything other than despair , but the week has been difficult, I lost an oled with the same error, same black screen, probably because of a poor quality dat0 adapter. In any case, I'll take a deep breath, resolder everything, put a new rp2040 and follow the reflow recommendations. Return with results.


A silly question: What is the essential difference between a black screen (corrupted eMMC) and a console power problem? Both are black screens. Both there is no response or brightness on the screen?

I don't know if there is a way to know this without starting to measure voltage lines with dmm when you plug in the charger.
I think the easier way would be to get a voltage meter from AliEx and see if the correct voltage is drawn when you connect the charger, so something like this: https://a.aliexpress.com/_msgflPA
(just to rule out the power issues)

 

[Werlon]

I'm confused about the led, mine seemed to blink long yellow. However the firmware posts first says that there are led codes with long and short pulses, but then it says that the led should be red otherwise you need to short some jumper pads (which aren't explained where they are). And the definitive guide claims it needs to be yellow, can someone help me? What do i need to look out for if the flash is successful, a long led pulse no matter the color, a yelow light or a red light?

 

[QuiTim]

I'm confused about the led, mine seemed to blink long yellow. However the firmware posts first says that there are led codes with long and short pulses, but then it says that the led should be red otherwise you need to short some jumper pads (which aren't explained where they are). And the definitive guide claims it needs to be yellow, can someone help me? What do i need to look out for if the flash is successful, a long led pulse no matter the color, a yelow light or a red light?

Colors don't matter anymore. One long pulse of light after you flash is what you need.

 

[hjohn]

Hi!
I got *=* error lights on oled. Screen is black. Anyone has an idea about fixing it?
Thanks!

 

[BlueBeans]

Yes

Check the Nintendo switch forum there is a All in One picofly thread with all original diagramms

Thank you I’ll try and find it.

 

[cicci084]

I’ve been keeping up as much as possible, but no, I haven’t read through 500 pages. I will order the .2 mm.

You can braid the 0.1 wires as I have often done (until the right one arrives).

 

[deeps]

So what would you suggest for the remaining wire? I ordered 36awg insulated a few days ago that should be here next week. Is that ok?

i use 0.2mm enamel wire for everything. works great.

Post automatically merged: Jun 14, 2023

You can braid the 0.1 wires as I have often done (until the right one arrives).

It takes four 0.1mm wires to reach the same surface area as a 0.2mm wire, though.

 

[Mr Skinner]

Well, this is my preliminary investigation results: a dat0 ripoff. @abal1000x @QuiTim
@Dee87

Well, my switch lite worked for four days after a "successful" pico install, full hekate's nand backup and etc.

In two different episodes I was some OS freezing... In the last freeze, I forced a power off, and since, black screen and the Led code was "*=* No eMMC block 0 read error" I checked that the wires had continuity, there was no grounding. So I removed the chip, the wires and now under the microscope I noticed that my dat0 was ripped out. I don't know if this happened during chip removal, after the black screen or if it was already like that. Could this be related to my black screen?

Thx for the help.

 

[abal1000x]

.

 

[LogicalMadness]

I'm using 2.74 on my OLED with slow / sporadic glitch times and it seems not much has changed that I can tell so far. Really stumped on what is causing it because I've been over every joint and changed from CPU flex cable to dual mosfets and nothing seems to make even the slightest difference to the glitch times. After updating the firmware I rebooted the Switch quite a few times and seems the average glitch time is still around 10 seconds. With highs of 20+ seconds and lows of ~2 seconds.

It has still never failed to glitch so far so that gives me a bit of confidence but it's not a great user experience having to potentially wait 20 seconds after pressing the power button for something to come up on the screen so I'm still not happy with it.

I've got a Lite doing the same and it doesn't seem like *you've gotten an answer, correct?

 

[cgtchy0412]

And that could also make the black screen? It doesn't even boot to OFW now even after removing the new DAT0

Yup, without Dat0 wires connected to pico it should boot straight to ofw, so the problem lies somewhere else or move to somewhere else (emmc corrupt?).
Just try to desolder everything from pico and hope it will boot normally.

Post automatically merged: Jun 14, 2023

Well, this is my preliminary investigation results: a dat0 ripoff. @abal1000x @QuiTim
@Dee87

View attachment 377775

View attachment 377777

Well, my switch lite worked for four days after a "successful" pico install, full hekate's nand backup and etc.

In two different episodes I was some OS freezing... In the last freeze, I forced a power off, and since, black screen and the Led code was "*=* No eMMC block 0 read error" I checked that the wires had continuity, there was no grounding. So I removed the chip, the wires and now under the microscope I noticed that my dat0 was ripped out. I don't know if this happened during chip removal, after the black screen or if it was already like that. Could this be related to my black screen?

Thx for the help.

Yup, that will result in black screen.
If Cmd ripped out it will result purple screen.

For fix : use the thinnest wire you can found (0.01 is prefered), non enameled, Pre tin it, and make a tin blob on the solder tip, use as much flux you like, then start soldering.. only one second solder touch is needed.. you can know its conected if you cannot pull the wire.
First target is to solder the wire on to broken pads.. after that done, solder the other end of wire to good pad.
If the switch can boot, you can continue the mod using alternate dat0 point.

 

[RatchetRussian]

Any tips using the stencil?

Solder balls!!!

It makes reballing so incredibly easy. I don't know why people torture themselves with solder paste.

0.3mm solder balls for the emmc.