Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

FreeLander

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Can you tell me please if you solder the 3.3v wire to the EMMC or to the M92T36 resistor?
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Amazing! i will do the same
EMMC, All points were soldered to it. Mainly because I don't have a board holder. It's easier to fix the eMMC in place.
 

FreeLander

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Put the meter on diode (beep) mode, then mesure, you should have 0.4 to 0.8 something in that range.

Do you get a diode reading on G point if you used MOSFETs ?
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This was literally JUST discussed IN THIS PAGE. Your CMD resistor is faulty. Check it's resistance is still 4.7k and that it's soldered on both pads.

That belly in the picture is priceless...

Hello. Would a carbon resistor with the same value work? Despite it being physically challenging.
4k7--4.7k--ohm-resistor-550x550.jpg
 

Jonas225

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Hi,
I finished my first install yesterday. I come from the Xbox360 JTAG / RGH community where I installed hundreds of modchips but WOW the Nintendo solder points are crazy small.

But everything went smooth during installation and the console boots really quick.

I have one problem that OFW does not boot. Nintendo logo and then black screen. Is there a fix for that?
I am using FW 2.66

Hi,
I just updated to 2.67 but still not possible to boot OFW. Hekate is not yet configured but that shouldn't have an impact for OFW, right?

Can somebody please help me here?
 

QuiTim

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Do you get a diode reading on G point if you used MOSFETs ?
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Hello. Would a carbon resistor with the same value work? Despite it being physically challenging.
View attachment 367455
Dont know regarding the G point reading while connected to Mosfet, sorry.
But the question regarding the resistor was asked earlier so I know it works despite being a bit to big (same value of course)
 

FreeLander

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Well that was ahhh.....how do i put this...... a dry job 🫣.
But jokes aside, kudos to him for pulling that off.
I bought the stencil, I just still don't have the balls to try it.
Sythax claims if the factory solder is reballed, it could cause cracks on the long run. Don't know about that.
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Dont know regarding the G point reading while connected to Mosfet, sorry.
But the question regarding the resistor was asked earlier so I know it works despite being a bit to big (same value of course)
I hear you. The reason for asking is that flex cable solder wire (3rd/4th) gives me a reading, but not when a wire is soldered directly to a MOSFET. I'm just curious to know why.
 

QuiTim

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I bought the stencil, I just still don't have the balls to try it.
Sythax claims if the factory solder is reballed, it could cause cracks on the long run. Don't know about that.
I looked at this from every angle and I'm still building courage to go through this myself :D
What I know now is that combining 2 solders cause cracks, and although i was planing to use some medium melting point alloy (around 200°) someone explaind to me that I could use low melt solder paste (138°-175°) to do this since the temperature of emmc chip is not supposed to go above 60° anyway.
So basically, remove emmc using alot of flux, clean both surfaces with flux+lead solder+wick/braid. Once everything is shiny, reball the emmc using low melt solder paste and put it back (while setting a permanent dat0 using copper trace or wire).
And do all of this while trying to keep the temperature as low as possible to avoid damaging the chip.
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I bought the stencil, I just still don't have the balls to try it.
Sythax claims if the factory solder is reballed, it could cause cracks on the long run. Don't know about that.
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I hear you. The reason for asking is that flex cable solder wire (3rd/4th) gives me a reading, but not when a wire is soldered directly to a MOSFET. I'm just curious to know why.
Well, flex also has a resistor from gate to drain and a couple of capacitors so that might be a reason.
I would gladly open mine and measure just out of curiosity but i'm not around for a couple of days.
 
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Hayato213

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There is a problem with the installation and you can't enter hekate, isn't it? So it's an emmc hardware failure?

It is too hard to tell, it is probably your installation, check if you bridge any component, if you knock off any component etc. It can happens, someone recently bridged two components, and damaged his cmd resistor. The emmc thing is a common thing with SK Hynix emmc, but probably it is your install since you have Samsung.
 

FreeLander

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I looked at this from every angle and I'm still building courage to go through this myself :D
What I know now is that combining 2 solders cause cracks, and although i was planing to use some medium melting point alloy (around 200°) someone explaind to me that I could use low melt solder paste (138°-175°) to do this since the temperature of emmc chip is not supposed to go above 60° anyway.
So basically, remove emmc using alot of flux, clean both surfaces with flux+lead solder+wick/braid. Once everything is shiny, reball the emmc using low melt solder paste and put it back (while setting a permanent dat0 using copper trace or wire).
And do all of this while trying to keep the temperature as low as possible to avoid damaging the chip.
Post automatically merged:


Well, flex also has a resistor from gate to drain and a couple of capacitors so that might be a reason.
I would gladly open mine and measure just out of curiosity but i'm not around for a couple of days.
Sounds simple when you say it like that. I practiced on a PS4's Southbridge and to me the most difficult part is cleaning the area without breaking any pads.

Good point, maybe that's way a flex gives a reading. Thanks
 
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QuiTim

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Sounds simple when you say it like that. I practiced on a PS4's Southbridge and to me the most difficult part is cleaning the area without breaking any pads.

Good point, maybe that's way a flex gives a reading. Thanks
Of course, it's easier for me to teach than do it myself 😅😅😅

To clean the area, add more lead based solder. It brings down the melting point of that sh*tty lead-free that they use to assemble the boards.
This guy has a nice technique:

And you can also use this alloy,i've seen alot of good reviews on this:
-Chip Quik SMD1NL SMD Removal Kit-
(Look it up on amazon, for some reason i'm unable to share the link)
 
Last edited by QuiTim,

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