Hi,
I finished my first install yesterday. I come from the Xbox360 JTAG / RGH community where I installed hundreds of modchips but WOW the Nintendo solder points are crazy small.
But everything went smooth during installation and the console boots really quick.
I have one problem that OFW does not boot. Nintendo logo and then black screen. Is there a fix for that?
I am using FW 2.66
Dont know regarding the G point reading while connected to Mosfet, sorry.
But the question regarding the resistor was asked earlier so I know it works despite being a bit to big (same value of course)
I bought the stencil, I just still don't have the balls to try it.
Sythax claims if the factory solder is reballed, it could cause cracks on the long run. Don't know about that.
Dont know regarding the G point reading while connected to Mosfet, sorry.
But the question regarding the resistor was asked earlier so I know it works despite being a bit to big (same value of course)
I hear you. The reason for asking is that flex cable solder wire (3rd/4th) gives me a reading, but not when a wire is soldered directly to a MOSFET. I'm just curious to know why.
I bought the stencil, I just still don't have the balls to try it.
Sythax claims if the factory solder is reballed, it could cause cracks on the long run. Don't know about that.
I looked at this from every angle and I'm still building courage to go through this myself
What I know now is that combining 2 solders cause cracks, and although i was planing to use some medium melting point alloy (around 200°) someone explaind to me that I could use low melt solder paste (138°-175°) to do this since the temperature of emmc chip is not supposed to go above 60° anyway.
So basically, remove emmc using alot of flux, clean both surfaces with flux+lead solder+wick/braid. Once everything is shiny, reball the emmc using low melt solder paste and put it back (while setting a permanent dat0 using copper trace or wire).
And do all of this while trying to keep the temperature as low as possible to avoid damaging the chip.
I bought the stencil, I just still don't have the balls to try it.
Sythax claims if the factory solder is reballed, it could cause cracks on the long run. Don't know about that.
Post automatically merged:
I hear you. The reason for asking is that flex cable solder wire (3rd/4th) gives me a reading, but not when a wire is soldered directly to a MOSFET. I'm just curious to know why.
Well, flex also has a resistor from gate to drain and a couple of capacitors so that might be a reason.
I would gladly open mine and measure just out of curiosity but i'm not around for a couple of days.
It is too hard to tell, it is probably your installation, check if you bridge any component, if you knock off any component etc. It can happens, someone recently bridged two components, and damaged his cmd resistor. The emmc thing is a common thing with SK Hynix emmc, but probably it is your install since you have Samsung.
I looked at this from every angle and I'm still building courage to go through this myself
What I know now is that combining 2 solders cause cracks, and although i was planing to use some medium melting point alloy (around 200°) someone explaind to me that I could use low melt solder paste (138°-175°) to do this since the temperature of emmc chip is not supposed to go above 60° anyway.
So basically, remove emmc using alot of flux, clean both surfaces with flux+lead solder+wick/braid. Once everything is shiny, reball the emmc using low melt solder paste and put it back (while setting a permanent dat0 using copper trace or wire).
And do all of this while trying to keep the temperature as low as possible to avoid damaging the chip.
Post automatically merged:
Well, flex also has a resistor from gate to drain and a couple of capacitors so that might be a reason.
I would gladly open mine and measure just out of curiosity but i'm not around for a couple of days.
Sounds simple when you say it like that. I practiced on a PS4's Southbridge and to me the most difficult part is cleaning the area without breaking any pads.
Good point, maybe that's way a flex gives a reading. Thanks
Sounds simple when you say it like that. I practiced on a PS4's Southbridge and to me the most difficult part is cleaning the area without breaking any pads.
Good point, maybe that's way a flex gives a reading. Thanks
Of course, it's easier for me to teach than do it myself
To clean the area, add more lead based solder. It brings down the melting point of that sh*tty lead-free that they use to assemble the boards.
This guy has a nice technique:
And you can also use this alloy,i've seen alot of good reviews on this:
-Chip Quik SMD1NL SMD Removal Kit-
(Look it up on amazon, for some reason i'm unable to share the link)
I bought the stencil, I just still don't have the balls to try it.
Sythax claims if the factory solder is reballed, it could cause cracks on the long run. Don't know about that.
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