Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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You don't even need the heatsink for testing. It can run quite a while in Hekate/Bootscreen before it gets too warm.
 
You don't even need the heatsink for testing. It can run quite a while in Hekate/Bootscreen before it gets too warm.
so i just need to plug the battery in?
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so i just need to plug the battery in?
oh and i only installed the flex cable, i just want to check if i have killed the thing or not lol
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so i just need to plug the battery in?
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oh and i only installed the flex cable, i just want to check if i have killed the thing or not lol
i just did it anyway, it turned on :))
 
Last edited by vagenam,
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I smell jaycar no clean flux


Edit and solder ;)
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When you flashed the fw what color led flashed, red or green? It should be red if not solder thw rgb jumper
The brushing firmware is red, and it worked normally in version 2.64 (green).
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I smell jaycar no clean flux


Edit and solder ;)
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When you flashed the fw what color led flashed, red or green? It should be red if not solder thw rgb jumper
I confirm that my 2040 colour display is normal (no RGB jumper is required)
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I smell jaycar no clean flux


Edit and solder ;)
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When you flashed the fw what color led flashed, red or green? It should be red if not solder thw rgb jumper
Maybe the light is pink?How to repair it?
 
Last edited by Kiuxn,
I need help, since yesterday I have an oled board that works but when I put the screws on the bottom of the console, or just tighten it with my hand, it no longer turns on, I have already insulated the entire board thinking that it could be grounding but it's still the same Does anyone have any ideas, thanks...

Ícono de validado por la comunidad
 

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I need help, since yesterday I have an oled board that works but when I put the screws on the bottom of the console, or just tighten it with my hand, it no longer turns on, I have already insulated the entire board thinking that it could be grounding but it's still the same Does anyone have any ideas, thanks...

View attachment 365094
I assume something is grounding that shouldn't be, do you have photos of your install?
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The brushing firmware is red, and it worked normally in version 2.64 (green).
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I confirm that my 2040 colour display is normal (no RGB jumper is required)
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Maybe the light is pink?How to repair it?
LED must be RED after USB write. if you see green, set "RGB mode" jumper

WHITE = eMMC write
BLUE = glitch
PURPLE = eMMC boot failure, check CMD / CLK
YELLOW = eMMC write failure, check D0 / unsupported eMMC
CYAN = no reaction to glitch, check mosfet wire
GREEN = success
 
I assume something is grounding that shouldn't be, do you have photos of your install?
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LED must be RED after USB write. if you see green, set "RGB mode" jumper

WHITE = eMMC write
BLUE = glitch
PURPLE = eMMC boot failure, check CMD / CLK
YELLOW = eMMC write failure, check D0 / unsupported eMMC
CYAN = no reaction to glitch, check mosfet wire
GREEN = success
I already uploaded a photo of the bottom part, that is, it should be there since the damage occurs when pressing the plate, that is, I understand that it should not be at the top
 
I already uploaded a photo of the bottom part, that is, it should be there since the damage occurs when pressing the plate, that is, I understand that it should not be at the top
Photos, more precisely of where all your joints are, where the pico is, etc; for it not to be working when you screw it up tells me it's shorting somewhere it shouldn't be.
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..lucky Jaycar's only walking distance from where I live :lol:
I cba and don't have time to walk to it anymore, not since they moved shop XD
 
I assume something is grounding that shouldn't be, do you have photos of your install?
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LED must be RED after USB write. if you see green, set "RGB mode" jumper

WHITE = eMMC write
BLUE = glitch
PURPLE = eMMC boot failure, check CMD / CLK
YELLOW = eMMC write failure, check D0 / unsupported eMMC
CYAN = no reaction to glitch, check mosfet wire
GREEN = success
Obviously, I encountered a colour (red) outside the list. 2040 has been replaced, and it is currently working normally.
 
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Photos, more precisely of where all your joints are, where the pico is, etc; for it not to be working when you screw it up tells me it's shorting somewhere it shouldn't be.
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I cba and don't have time to walk to it anymore, not since they moved shop XD
just put your finger down on the usb c connector and the console no longer turns on, this makes me crazy

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just put my finger down on the usb c connector and the console no longer turns on, this makes me crazy
I check the points of the chip when the console does not turn on and none of them, except for the gnd, show ground, so I think that the connections are good

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My friend's switch lite let me help repair, but his data0 point is broken, the original has been installed 2.5 picofly, but now can not boot, please ask this how to continue to install picofly. thanx
DATA0 has an alternative point. But you may need to repair the damaged line.
 
just put your finger down on the usb c connector and the console no longer turns on, this makes me crazy

View attachment 365102
Is mosfet installed in this way? What I know is that it requires a certain amount of current to run, and it is not recommended to install it like this.
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yeah i saw someone use that point...
is there another spot i can use ??
There are too many points connected to GND. Use general instruments to detect them.
 
I just modded a lite with a rp2040-zero and single mosfet, worked perfectly first time. My reflections are:
- attaching mosfet directly to the cap is not a good idea. the mosfet is taller than the apu and will lead to bad thermal conductivity since the shield will cover both apu and mosfet. I put the mosfet in the space between apu and ram.

- Soldering mosfet to caps (with or without wire) is hard as hell. By far the hardest part of the mod. Absolutely not worth the extra time it takes over buying the ribbon cable.

- There is no way to fit a 2040-zero under the full body heat shield, even if connector and buttons are removed. If someone claims they did then their heat shield is bent to hell and will cause a bulge in the housing. A hole in the shield is necessary.

- single mosfet attached by wire to single cap seems to work fine.
- working with solder mask is messy and spreads everywhere unless dried enough. Maybe it's just my shitty aliexpress product though.

Thanks everyone, especially rehius!
 
I just modded a lite with a rp2040-zero and single mosfet, worked perfectly first time. My reflections are:
- attaching mosfet directly to the cap is not a good idea. the mosfet is taller than the apu and will lead to bad thermal conductivity since the shield will cover both apu and mosfet. I put the mosfet in the space between apu and ram.

- Soldering mosfet to caps (with or without wire) is hard as hell. By far the hardest part of the mod. Absolutely not worth the extra time it takes over buying the ribbon cable.

- There is no way to fit a 2040-zero under the full body heat shield, even if connector and buttons are removed. If someone claims they did then their heat shield is bent to hell and will cause a bulge in the housing. A hole in the shield is necessary.

- single mosfet attached by wire to single cap seems to work fine.
- working with solder mask is messy and spreads everywhere unless dried enough. Maybe it's just my shitty aliexpress product though.

Thanks everyone, especially rehius!
if i cut hole like this
and fit rp2040 without removing the usb c , is it goin fit?
rp2040  2023-04-15 213428.png
 

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Last edited by nico77,

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