Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[lightninjay]

V1 ribbon cable on Mariko. Works perfectly with V2 console.
I will definitely be more "gentle" with a ribbon cable next time. This one was just for the science.

Lol, "gentle" with it. Looks like a job well-done to me.

 

[overson]

What is the resistance value of lite on the diagram? Can someone help me? My LITE vol+may not work due to this, it is missing.
View attachment 364325

nice!red marked position compared to V1 PATCH, added a 150 ohm resistor, successfully repaired vol+, for reference only

 

[DonZott]

I'm not sure, but It can be posible that battery was plugged on.

If the battery was still plugged in, it's possible that you accidentally shorted those 2 pads with your soldering iron when you accidentally removed that cap. Even when the 2 pads are shorted for only a second it could cause damage to other components on the board.

Unplug the battery, clean all flux residue with alcohol, remove any bridge that was made. Remove the rp2040.
If you have trouble removing the flux, and you have a hot air gun, heat up the flux to 100°C and add alcohol to dissolve the flux and clean it again.
If you have a multimeter, check continuity between the 2 pads. If it beeps then you probably have a short somewhere else on the motherboard. (maybe something is getting hot on the motherboard?)

If it doesn't beep, you could try turning it on.
You could also try measuring the voltage on those pads, one pad should read +/- 3.3v, the other should read 0v.

The switch should work without that cap.

If the switch still does not turn on it's best to leave the battery unplugged for now and let somebody who has experience with switch motherboards have a look at it.

 

[angelC992]

The 3.3V cap soldering point is a dangerous point,this tiny cap is super fragile and easily broken and missing by soldering heat built up by seconds.The 3.3V wiring diagram mess up the micro soldering work.Just use the alternate point.

I didn't use the alternative point and my switch brok

If the battery was still plugged in, it's possible that you accidentally shorted those 2 pads with your soldering iron when you accidentally removed that cap. Even when the 2 pads are shorted for only a second it could cause damage to other components on the board.

Unplug the battery, clean all flux residue with alcohol, remove any bridge that was made. Remove the rp2040.
If you have trouble removing the flux, and you have a hot air gun, heat up the flux to 100°C and add alcohol to dissolve the flux and clean it again.
If you have a multimeter, check continuity between the 2 pads. If it beeps then you probably have a short somewhere else on the motherboard. (maybe something is getting hot on the motherboard?)

If it doesn't beep, you could try turning it on.
You could also try measuring the voltage on those pads, one pad should read +/- 3.3v, the other should read 0v.

The switch should work without that cap.

If the switch still does not turn on it's best to leave the battery unplugged for now and let somebody who has experience with switch motherboards have a look at it.

Tonight I will take the console to a person who is dedicated to fixing consoles.

The Raspberry, the flex and the cables are disassembled and the console is closed, but with the battery connected.

It is increasingly clear to me that I have made some kind of short circuit but I don't know where, so I will take it to a professional.

What I do know for sure is that no smoke or burning smell came out, so if it is a short circuit, it may not have broken anything but it is unable to power on. I have also thought that it is a problem with the 3.3v regulator that is near the point to be soldered.

 

[FlowerFire]

I had everything ready, put the metal backplate on and everything was still working, until I reinserted the plastic backplate. The excessive pressure probably damaged the 0.1mm cpu wire, as I started to get cyan LED. replaced the wire and everything is working again.
However, if this happens again, I'm having a meltdown I just want to be done with this mod!

I don't feel like cutting the shield, because I think that it would take extra effort to keep the rp2040 in place. What are the current methods of making it fit? Of course I remove buttons, usb port and 3.3v regulator already

 

[Dee87]

I had everything ready, put the metal backplate on and everything was still working, until I reinserted the plastic backplate. The excessive pressure probably damaged the 0.1mm cpu wire, as I started to get cyan LED. replaced the wire and everything is working again.
However, if this happens again, I'm having a meltdown I just want to be done with this mod!

I don't feel like cutting the shield, because I think that it would take extra effort to keep the rp2040 in place. What are the current methods of making it fit? Of course I remove buttons, usb port and 3.3v regulator already

if u dont want to have such issue with the usbport, buttons u will have to cut the shield

if u use 2.64 there is no need for them anyway just remove them
u can update with picofly toolbox

 

[FlowerFire]

if u dont want to have such issue with the usbport, buttons u will have to cut the shield

if u use 2.64 there is no need for them anyway just remove them
u can update with picofly toolbox

No no, as I said, I already removed them.
However I'm still having problems on making it fit, so I was asking for methods or videos the show that properly

 

[RexSonic]

V1 ribbon cable on Mariko. Works perfectly with V2 console.
I will definitely be more "gentle" with a ribbon cable next time. This one was just for the science.

Did you melt it with lava

 

[Dee87]

No no, as I said, I already removed them.
However I'm still having problems on making it fit, so I was asking for methods or videos the show that properly

lol sorry i didnt read all the way i guess Xd Xd

 

[DonZott]

I didn't use the alternative point and my switch brok

Tonight I will take the console to a person who is dedicated to fixing consoles.

The Raspberry, the flex and the cables are disassembled and the console is closed, but with the battery connected.

It is increasingly clear to me that I have made some kind of short circuit but I don't know where, so I will take it to a professional.

What I do know for sure is that no smoke or burning smell came out, so if it is a short circuit, it may not have broken anything but it is unable to power on. I have also thought that it is a problem with the 3.3v regulator that is near the point to be soldered.

Ok, good that you have somebody to have it looked at.

Not seeing any smoke or not having a burning smell doesn't mean that something didn't break but it's better to not have it of course.

Keep us up to date and good luck *fingers crossed*

 

[RiotRetroGaming]

Hmmm, I hope not lol
I will have a look at that method, wondering what you mean at the moment *ponders brain*.

I use leaded solder because of thermal issues, I would love to reball using leaded solder.

base from the yt videos and sthethix latest video

Its better for friction method since no more reballing/reheating and when you reheat it will crack 3 months+ down the line

 

[abal1000x]

.

 

[KarimPolska]

I tried to bridge those pads without capacitor, but that was after the Switch Lite doesn't boot.



Is It dead or can a professional repair it? I was talking with a guy who repair Switch consoles. He told me my Nintendo should power on without this capacitor so he needs to check everything in motherboard carefully.

I highly suggest you send it to someone who knows what they are doing. Shorting cap pins is the last thing you should have done. That's exactly as if you short the pins of a battery. I think by now at least the small 3.3v regulator is dead if not something else.

 

[DonZott]

Hmmm, I hope not lol
I will have a look at that method, wondering what you mean at the moment *ponders brain*.

I use leaded solder because of thermal issues, I would love to reball using leaded solder.

sthethix doesn't reflow the DAT0 adapter anymore because he states that the leaded solder used on the DAT0 adapter and the unleaded solder on the emmc don't go well together and the connection breaks after +/- 3 months due to thermal expansion.

 

[linuxares]

V.2 is here of the PicoFly install guide

https://easyupload.io/5zhege

I just checked this. I just wish to add 1 addon to it. The DAT0 ankor for OLED.

 

[angelC992]

If i were you, i am gonna open that up, and disconnect the battery. At least minimize the damage.

The battery stills connected since last night. Damage is done already, no?

 

[Dee87]

The battery stills connected since last night. Damage is done already, no?

who know just disconnect it , give it to him in parts hes gonna have to take it apart anyways

 

[tiger111]

guys i need some advice ive got everything needed for picofly install the resistors rp 2040 chip etc but not flex cable im unable to get it since over here in india ali expres is banned in my region any alternative except ali express where can i buy flex cable ???any advice will be highly appretiated

 

[Dee87]

guys i need some advice ive got everything needed for picofly install the resistors rp 2040 chip etc but not flex cable im unable to get it since over here in india ali expres is banned in my region any alternative except ali express where can i buy flex cable ???any advice will be highly appretiated

well then get some mosfets they should easly be available

 

[Silenced4772]

there is a much better point

Spoiler: Lite 3v3

View attachment 364492

it would be awesome to also cover the toolbox features in this guide

Just to confirm, it's okay to bridge these points?